24v cummins diesel engine rebuild- pistons, rods & short block
24v cummins diesel engine rebuild- pistons, rods & short block


If you plan on spinning tires on one of these agricultural giants you need two things Torque and horsepower today, we build a 400 horsepower house Okay, so we’ve got our parts and for our Cummins engine project first thing we need to do is get the crankshaft installed We’ve got the cylinder block all cleaned up next thing to do is install the main bearings and just like the cam bearings make sure that the oil hole is lined up and the lock tabs on the band Install the tamp side first. You’ll hear a snap Now, you know you’re bearing’s seated properly Now we’re going to lubricate the bearings. It’s time to fire service choke up and set the crankshaft All right, so next I’m going to install my thrust bearings oil groove out The thrust bearings control the end play of the crankshaft Its time to install the main bearing caps We want to make sure and keep the surface between the cap and the bearing dry and these are marked front Cummins recommends that you use anaerobic flange sealant on the cap flanges It’s also important to make sure you lubricate your cap bolts on the threads and on the shoulder The oil clearance is an amount of space between the bearing and the crankshaft that area Let’s all circulate and lubricate. Before we assemble all these caps. We have to check the oil clearance for that We’re going to be using the tool called plastic age. So I’m going to cut small pieces plasti-gage I’m gonna set it on top of my crankshaft journal. I’m gonna bolt the cap down The bearing is going to crush this plasti- gage and according to how wide that crushed plasti-gage is, will tell us how much clearance we have. Proper oil clearance is critical. If there’s too much your pumps not gonna be able to keep up if there’s not enough your parents gonna touch your bearing then you going to junk an engine. It looks like we got about 3,000th oil clearance. Good deal. The next step is to rotate the bolt to 180 degrees. Now that 180 degrees is actually going to stretch this boat to ensure that it doesn’t come loose. Every time I tighten one of these cap see this 180, I’m gonna rotate the engine 360 degrees. That’s gonna tell me if there’s a problem on the cap that I am working on. So we’ve got our crankshaft installed now, Now it’s time to flip this block over and install the cylinder liners. Now we’re going to get these lighters sealed up and get them installed into our engine block. When this is installed in your engine block, the top end of this line is going to be surrounded by engine coolant We need to keep that engine coolant up here and out of your crankcase. And that’s where these o-rings come in. These seals are going to have to be lubricated. Just make sure to remember not to use petroleum based lubricants. This manufacturer actually calls for vegetable oil. The same stuff that’s in your kitchen! Notice on your line you’re gonna have one side that has a lot more wear than the rest of them. They call that the thrust side when you reinstall your liner you want to rotate that liner 90 degrees. The next thing we need to do is check the line of protrusion So we’ve got to check this is a protrusion mic and some homemade cylinder liner holder downers. What we’re looking for is between seven and fourteen thousandths and we are at ten thousandths. That’s about right where we need to be It’s time to install pistons and rods. Keep in mind there’s two types of rods; drilled and non drilled This is a non-drilled. If this were a drilled, you’d have to line up the hole in your bearing, to the hole in the rod. It’s time to get the rings on this piston. We’ve got three types of rings. We’ve got our compression, which would be the top ring, intermittent, which is the middle ring and the oil ring which is the bottom ring. Always line your ring gaps180 degrees apart and never line your rink gap up with the wrist pen. Like honey on a biscuit! You’ll notice there’s a relief cut in the piston skirt. It’s super important that you line that up with the cooling jet. If not your piston explodes! We always install these with the crank journal at the bottom dead center. Yeah! I got a little help from my buddy Dustin. He’s gonna lower the piston down as I line it up through the rod journal. Now that we’ve got our piston installed, I’m gonna rotate this engine 360 degrees to make sure everything’s good. The next step is to install the piston cooling nozzles and what this does is receive oil from from the engine oil pump. It squirts it out to the bottom of the piston to lubricate and cool it. It’s important to check these for cracks. If these fail, the piston overheat,s you junk a cylinder. Prime example, This engine would still be alive if we weren’t for this broken nozzle. So we’ve assembled what’s commonly known as a short block. Hopefully now we have a little more understanding where that 400 horsepower comes from. Next week we’re going to be throwing the head on this thing. We’re gonna stick in that tractor. We’re gonna be making smoke and as always… newmantractor.com Too much! Too much!! You’re gonna have hole and holeless. You’re either gonna have a hole you’re not! You squat down and make me look taller than you. Go on! There! (laughing) Liner holder Downers! (laughing) Liner holder Downers!

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