A Look Inside These Dirt Bike Forks


how are we doing everyone so I’ve been
making a lot of progress on the cr250 build lately but one thing I have not
touched yet is the suspension but I’ll be working on the forks and shock today
now it’s actually been a while since I’ve torn into suspension so this is
gonna be a bit of a refresher for me I’m excited though the biggest reason why I
want to tear these things down is just to go through and inspect everything and
replace the fluids as well but on top of that the seals are already leaking so
they gotta get torn apart anyways before I do any disassembly though I’m gonna
clean these things up man the forks and Jacques are looking as
good as ever I’m gonna start out by disassembling the forks the first step
in taking this fork apart is to loosen up the fork cap and in order to hold the
fork in place I’m gonna slide it into the triple clamp and use this fork cap
wrench to break the cap loose as soon as I loosen up this cap the
outer cartridge oil is going to come pouring out so I’m going to dump it all
into this drain pan alright next I’ll have to loosen up the
damping rod from the bottom and to accomplish this I’ll need to put the
fork and a vise so if you don’t have soft jaws on your
vise you can use part of an old tube and just
fold it around and that should protect the lug plenty good enough it would probably help if I had this
vise bolted down somewhere but just haven’t gotten around to it yet so once the dampening rod is loose
you’ll be able to push it out of the bottom the fork now I’m gonna have to
find a way to hold that damper rod extended that way I can loosen up the
nut and from there the damper rod can be removed from the fork this is going to
be easiest to deal with the fork out of the vise so I’m gonna compress the fork
and I’ve got a 12 millimeter wrench here we’re gonna put it underneath the
dampening rod and in order to remove the end of it I’ll need to hold this part
right here with a 17 millimeter wrench so I’ll need to put the fork back in the
vise for this one once the adjusters all loosened up you
can slide out the rod that’s inside as well now it’s a matter of compressing
the fork pulling out the wrench and then the dampening rod will slide out of the
fork now I just need to loosen up the cap the rest of the way and the
dampening rod will slide out of the fork so this is what’s called the dampening
assembly this is what controls the dampening action of the fork and there’s
actually another chamber inside here so I’m going to loosen up the cap and drain
the oil out of there as well to loosen up the inner chamber I’m gonna have to
hold the damper with a fork cap wrench and then get a wrench on the inner
chamber here once you have the inner cartridge loosened up you may have to
push down on the damping rod to get it to break free and like I was saying earlier there is
gonna be some fluid in this cartridge to get all the fluid out it helps the pump
the dampening rod now it’s on to separating the upper and lower tubes
that way I can get to the seal but first off I have to pull out this fork spring in order to separate the tubes I’ll have
to slide up the dust seal which I’ve already loosened up and then there’s a
little retaining clip in here that’ll have to pop out of place now it’s a
matter of sliding the two tubes away from each other you may have to slide
hammer a little bit to get to break loose well boys the fork is all apart
now and ready for new bushings seals and fluid so I’ve got some parts to order up
but in the meantime I’m gonna wipe these things down with a clean towel so the right fork checked out fine
everything seems to be in pretty good shape and now it’s on to the left fork
give me like 30 seconds then I’ll have this thing bust apart the forks are now completely apart and
next in line is the shock to start off I’ll need to remove the spring which
begins with loosening up these lock nuts right here I’ve got the nuts loosened up and down
here on the bottom color there is a little clip that needs to be removed in
order for the retaining ring to be slid off so the shock reservoir is pressurized
with nitrogen and sadly that’s gonna have to be released in order to drain
the oil just like a car tire this has got a release valve on the bottom side
of it now to drain the oil I’ll need to pull out the compression adjuster to get all the oil out of the shock body
I’ll need a pump the shaft alright next up I’ll be popping off this cover that
way I can get access to the snap ring that holds the shock shaft into the
shock body just so this cover stays out of the way I’m gonna tape it to the
bottom of the shock now to get to the circlip I was talking about the seal
head will have to be pushed down into the body so to get the circlip out I’ll
need to use two screwdrivers one to kind of pry the clip out of the groove and
the other one to pull it up so I’ve got the clip out of the groove now I’m just
gonna work it up and out of the shock body well that’s pretty much all it
takes now we can slide the shaft out of the body so this shaft is being a bit
stubborn not really wanting to come out of the body and I’m going to go ahead
and replace the bladder anyways but it might help to have the bladder out for
removing the shaft and this clip is removed in the same way I pulled out the
other clip so I’m just gonna thread the cap back on
to the valve and pull off the bladder pulling off the bladder seem to help out
so now I’m gonna pull the shaft out of the body one thing to look for with
shock letters when you pull them out if they’re compressed at all or got any
indentation like this one that means they need to be replaced
so this one is toast there really aren’t too many parts to a shock they’re
relatively simple but once you start pulling apart the stack here there’s a
lot of shims in there a lot going on so this is the shock seal in that I’ll be
replacing I think it is time to pick a winner for the giveaway on this clutch
cover let’s figure it out all right I’m over here on the YouTube random comment
picker got the URL for the video punched in looks like we’ve got 802 comments so
what this is gonna do is just pick a completely random comment all right
let’s go that’s kind of cool who will it be
Motoman FMF with shorty or stock pipe not a bad choice I don’t mind stock
pipes actually and FM EPS are always a solid option too so Motoman shoot me a
message here on youtube and i’ll get this clutch cover over to you not gonna
lie I had a ton of fun shooting this video and tearing down the suspension
since I don’t normally work on suspension that much it was a nice
change of pace so once these replacement parts come in the bushing seals and
fluids I’ll be putting this stuff back together and I should be a good time as
well hope you guys enjoyed watching the video
always appreciate y’all I will see you later

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