day four of the build I like that we’re
starting to use the word restoration because we are actually restoring this
vehicle and taking it from old to new day for waiting for the gearbox to
arrive transfer box has been sorted gearbox sorted waiting for that manifold
waiting for that radiator replacement radiators for both the air conditioner
condenser and the engine cooling radiator or on their way now but a lot
of work has been done on the transmission brakes suspension
already I’m Andrew st. Pierre White join me as I share my passion for building
four-wheel drive trucks and traveling to the remotest parts of the world
then we found the problem on your gearbox that’s your reverse gear and
unfortunately the reverse gear is not looking too healthy because as you can
see all the teeth have been broken off that’s our tooth look and this is what’s
left of the reverse gear and usually on these gearboxes when you
run stop the car in reverse that happens when you do a push start in Reverse yes
yeah so it’s an obvious the people because they’re not designed to go back
yes while we’re talking you’re talking the
clucks you’re doing a shock load on the gears right so you put very weak yeah so
they do that drop the clutch never never start a controversy you hear that never
start a con you’re in Reverse particularly if it’s well any car cuz
you know / then put a phone inside so now okay so what’s the prognosis can we
get us is it a spare part is that the major builders that just one component
or it’s a it’s a small pod you know self how much you use your
so we can actually just mature take it out let’s just take it out
doesn’t even know I’m gonna need reverse-fold oh look what’s coming that’s my pride and joy that I’d enjoy
that keeps me going in this business I will do a report later in this series
about the Bears 40 series Land Cruiser rebuilds Sandra here we’ve got the wire
a critical component of the front axle and you’ve got the the axle casing here
two small bearings and they really are very small bearings and the whole wheel
pivots on these two bearings here and you’ve got a set of seals that actually
stop the grease that holds them a CV joint and the drive shaft which sits in
here coming out when the wheel turns left and right and then you’ve got a
seal inside there this little seal there which stops this grease going into the
oil axle so when you get failure off this seal here this little field here
and this dark grease starts creeping through there and actually going into
the axle casing it’s really difficult to tell so what I’ve always advised people
going on over land expeditioners when you come into your service every 5000 KS
check the color of the front oil in the in the axle if you find the front wheels
actually gone a little bit gray then it’s telling you that actually this
grease in here which you can’t see has gone through that seal and actually
mixed with that oil the problem with it mixing is that now you’ve actually taken
oil and grease and mixed it and it’s not the right education for the
differentials when I showed you the nice teeth on that on the differential that
looked really in good condition this grease and oil actually deteriorates
that takes off what we call the case hardening on those teeth so it’s
important that the system with the grease stays here to lubricate the CV
joint stays this side of that seal the oil stays that side of that of the seal
and these components work separately in from here
to make the wheel turn we’ve got a spindle and there’s some parts missing
here because they all fit together what I want to show you is the bearings
so here we put the spindle these are the two bearings where the actual hub will
be bolt the wheel runs on it and the critical points for us here want to
check bearings now this people don’t do often enough I’ve often found that you
know when you’re driving on expedition you put up you’ve got a really heavy
vehicle look you’ve loaded it in a heavy capacity you’re putting a lot of load on
the wheel bearings so part of the service regime which needs to be done
more often than if you didn’t load the vehicle for expedition and that’s why a
tio2 service regime for the factory is slightly different to overland and how
I’ve trained people because you’re putting a lot more stress on things and
components like bearings and you’re driving on some really harsh roads so I
want people to check bearings more often and what we’re doing here as we actually
gain to replace your bearings so you look at and you say when do I change a
bearing and should I change a bearing of bearings aren’t particularly expensive
and I would actually just go ahead and spend the money and change the bearings
if I look at these bearings here and you can see in the light there there’s a
brown tinge on what they call the rollers these are the rollers
okay now that Brown is a sign of heat so the lubrication is broken down which
means the greases are they’re contaminated or it’s actually got too
little grease in there and this is run hot and so these start wearing and then
the other problem you have is on what’s called the stub x4 where these sit
you’ve got the surface where this bearing has to slide on
now take this berry and I slide it on that needs to go a nice and true my
Louis it doesn’t just slide on there we are so this is Scotty if I I can feel it
it’s it’s on it’s not a lot of movement there if I take the top one and if I
look at this if I take my finger there’s actually a ridge there now if I turn it
around there isn’t a ridge there so the way on this side is more accentuated
than the top so when I take this bearing and what I’m trying to make sure is that
the inside race here doesn’t have any movement the movement needs to be like
that the outside part moving and this inside needs to be fixed and set so it
doesn’t move so now I put this on if I just take that and I can actually move
that not the earth side I’m actually feeling movement on this and the reason
I’m feeling movement on there is because there is a shoulder here that’s worn so
I wouldn’t reuse the stub axle if I was in a place where this was really good
and I didn’t have that sort of way all around I could clean it up I could put a
big bearing lock I could put this back together confidently knowing we could
reuse this part and it’s Spencer part able to change the other part to check
is that you’ve got a bronze bushing you put a needle roller bearing and we have
got I’ll show you quickly the difference between a new bearing okay and then
let’s look at that one so there’s a nice new shiny bearing and there’s the old
one so by taking your bearings and stripping down the wheel bearings on a
regular basis and people say well how often is regular on an expedition
probably every 20,000 kilometers and I’d regulate that by testing play on
bearings which I would take up play on bearings at a normal service interval of
every 5,000 kilometers also if I’ve driven through a lot of water because
the biggest problem people have is you’ve you drive through water you’ve
got a seal which is keeping the grease out on the inside of the bearing and the
dust from the outside and as you go through water
you cool everything down quenching it and you can often suck a bit of moisture
through past the seal with dirt with mud with grit so River which has got a lot
of silt in it now you’re creating a grinding paste and you can see what ends
up happening is that creeps in and then of course you can get excessive wear
coming through so bottom line you want to make sure that these components are
not overly worn spend the money on new bearings if the bearings still looked
nice like this I wouldn’t change it I’d actually take it now we’ll just regress
it so those millions of the ideal for spares so what you’ll notice here this
is what we recognize as a brake disc the wheel goes on here and as you can see
that’s where the bearing sits stub axle goes in okay if you take a bearing outer
bearing as a matched pair so these two once they start wearing in become a
matched pair if you said to me Paul would you take this as a spare set of
bearings I knock out the shell that’s the shell that sits in there I knock
that out and I keep them together I don’t mix them up because once you mix
them up you can’t take a worn bearing with a different shell you know this has
got a they they’re nice these two are happy together okay they’ve got a nice
relationship they’ve worked together for a long time so now you want to take
someone else like a marriage you know you don’t just swap around it’s
important that you keep the shell and the actual bearing together if you’re
going to take it as a spare yes take a set of bearings of spare because you
never know how a bearing could give a problem and again if I’m taking seals I
always take new seals I never compromise on skills we use the best seals we can
buy so you’re saying if I’m taking the bearings as spares I must keep them
matched with all of the components that were taken out we’re gonna put them in a
place where they’re all together so if I have to replace a bearing I take the
whole lot and replace the whole lot is that what you’re saying so what I’m
saying is this is is the the components you keep together
so this is the old bearing from here yes okay he has a brand new one if I take
this one out and I’m gonna take this as a spare I need to take its partner the
shell out and I’ll keep the shell you’re still in the shell is still in there we
knock it out we take it we take a shaft through them like sure we tap it out and
then you end up with this piece and then I take the two together and I put a zip
tie around so that I don’t mix them up it’s really important if you know if
it’s a brand new one in a box that’s fine it’s in a box it’s matched so any
spare you’re taking especially bearings and I’m going to reuse them take them
together put a zip tie around and you’ve got a spare set of bearings no gaskets
very important to take new gaskets brand new seals and I take enough seals to do
a full bearing service on the car if I’m going on a trip so the seal that sits in
here I’m gonna get one of those so here’s the new seal the seal actually
fits in to the hub over here and these these are carry a full set because if
I’m gonna service the bearings I can pull them the bearings apart where I’m
actually just taking the bearing out clean it wash it put new grease in and
I’ll put a brand new seal put it in and make sure I’ve got a good quality seal
no this is an amazing seal this is the seal that the new seal at Tarentum have
supplied us and what I see is that they’ve actually it’s like a seal within
a seal and if you look in there it’s actually ridged and then you put the
outer seal so normally a seal will have one lip and the way they’ve designed
these well they just look much more efficient and much less chance of dirt
and grit getting in because that’s the biggest problem with seal you can
imagine there’s your seal here’s your stub axle and dirt and mud
and all this come up and this is where the seal will run come up against you
and what you’re trying to do with the series is you’re trying to make sure
that the water and the dust and the mud stays on one side of the seal away from
the grease and the bearing we don’t actually contaminate our grease
grease breaks down and oil breaks down because of the impurities that get mixed
into it the properties of most grease good quality grease and it’s important
in to use of proper really good quality grease generally they’ll last for a very
very long time once they get contaminants in that’s
what tends to make a grease or an oil fat beautiful beautiful look at this
well so here has our brand-new stomachs when I compare the two you can actually
see the way marks and no a mom of course the second bearing sits there and the
seal sits there and the seal sits there now if I rub my finger on here there’s
actually a groove there okay and it’s for the new seal to sit on there’s
always a chance that seals not going to seal as well because the lip has
actually made a groove from all the dust and mud and oil and that’s critical that
that actually seals it sometimes you can get away with cleaning it up in a bit of
water paper and you can make sure that it all works and that in the ridges
aren’t on there then it’s still okay in our case we’re absolutely changing this
and I would add something I wouldn’t compromise on because once the bearing
has a little bit of play carrying all the way to the car it can compromise the
bearing so you want to you want to minimize any potential play on anything
any movement causes damage so you have got our new one is the new
bronze bush there’s a new roller bearing in there very nice and so what terrain
team have done as well which I really love because it’s it’s one thing now we
have a kit here to rebuild this whole setup and make sure that the the new
stub axle all goes together and this kit together engine revving okay we’ve got
small bearings yeah so these little bearings I change
often because I find that you know what ends up happening here these bearings
start if I clean that out you’ll find you can see there’s little ridges so
what happens is this you’ll find the steering the bearing itself gets knocked
out as we call it and those little rollers that we have here they actually
start making ridges on and repairing it and it’s really not good and that’s why
these are not expensive so don’t always change them but that sits in there a
little bearing and of course one on a lot of roads it doesn’t it isn’t a lot
of movement when you’re steering and most of the time you’re driving with the
wheel straight and that’s bash bash bash bash bash and if they’re not adjusted
properly eventually they make little grooves in here and of course the
movement is then restricted and of course your past steering is over is
doing all the work but actually if I run my hand and I can feel ever so slightly
and you can see it these little shiny edges in there
so don’t compromise what’s worse what’s really special about this is I don’t buy
these all separate I buy the complete kit the seal this it will seal that sits
in there they’ve also changed the design of the seal it’s actually got a nice lip
double lip system and gets to last for the shaft goes in there to keep the oil
and grease separate but these are the old-style seals now you’re going to
compare this seal okay which is also very good seal and you’ve got a newest
style seal here as well so you can see there is a difference there’s new design
on the seals so perfect little kit has got this complete set inside here here
we’ve got gaskets we’ve got seal the rubber seals and these and it felt seals
so it’s just beautifully prepared the shims to shim it so we’ve got a properly
tensioned up this whole kit is what use is used to build this whole knuckle
setup with the stub axle and brake disk so it all comes together it’s just a
complete set up really nicely done and I know that the quality of the gasket
paper that they use is also a very good quality you do get kits like this that
can be quite cheap and inexpensive and and very you go to a lot of time and
effort and money to rebuild the front axle knuckle and you use a cheap in a
survey cheaper kit and then within a few thousand KS you start finding that they
leaking they’re not really holding their way and
it’s just don’t compromise on you use good quality parts it really does pay
online so now for the rear we’ve got a complete axle here the only difference
with the landcruiser axle is that actually that doesn’t have a bolt or
stub axle like we had on the front it’s actually part of the axle my mind is
actually ethical and I’ve had a much better design because you could bolt
these doubles off and you can replace them so it’s important on this that you
make sure the way is not like we found on the front stub axle which is also on
this is actually still in very good condition if I feel on the edges on the
areas where the bearing is going to sit a little bit of coloration but there’s
no rich and that’s what I’m reading you know there’s a bit of a ridge here that
you can see where the wear COC license but it’s not a deep gouge and because
we’ve got the new type of seal it will actually work very well so what’s
important we know when I run my fingers rather so want to make sure that there’s
no sharp edges there and that we clean to get cleaned up properly and this is
where I think the difference between a workshop that actually cares now you can
throw bearings on an offer car in many different ways to deed the difference
between actually preparing this properly is going to give you the longevity and
less problems so if I push a seal on here I’ve already found a slight burrow
underneath here with my finger and if I go and push a seal on there and I Nick
the seal you won’t know about it it’ll take your car you’ll drive off an
eventual starting or grease leaking out there and that’s where the difference
comes in that’s why when I’m choosing people who are going to work on my car
once you know they’re actually gonna take the care to make sure this is
cleaned up properly that they understand this cars going not round the corner
around the block or the next suburb where if there’s a pop mark and come
back on Monday I mean let me feel let me just feel that
and birth it oh yes oh yes I can feel it Oh right there does that no just no
certainly so how do you how do you find somebody who’s actually gonna so these
guys in Africa they have a unique way of wanting to care your client and that’s
the difference I’ve often seen that when you do a job and you actually care care
about what you’re doing so well well for those in the nursing home to have his
cough sort of that someone’s going to sort it out yeah it’s very obvious so so
when I’m looking for poor people it’s a lot about reputation know your you hear
about guys who are really good at looking after the cops I found our
attention to detail its attention to detail it’s about caring about the times
you know you I know you’re gonna go on a long trip so I know the guys are gonna
be very meticulous about how they do this so that you don’t have that problem
many of the workshops who will operate in Africa that are good and successful
understand exactly that these are people that are trusting them with their lives
make okay so basically I’ve shown you pretty
much how these components go together and here we have our CV joint okay the
little seal that sits in the casing this little seal that keeps this grease and
the CV joint and the oil that runs for the differential is a small seal here
and this is where the shaft has being compromised it’s got a massive groove
there you can see that groove is huge okay that grew there that groove it
looks like it’s machinery how it shouldn’t be there okay so that’s the
groove there for us to check how good the CV joint is now the CV joint is this
part here and then you’ve got a shaft which goes in here and there’s a clip so
you’d pull this do you pull the shaft out and that’s a separate component so
two things we need to check when we can as a side whether we actually changing
the CV joints nice expensive component now it’s heavy its expensive as a lot of
money so we want to be sure to things over the life of this car it’s most
likely its had CV joints 20 years they wear out if they’re not looked after so
I don’t know whether this is a good quality CV joint when I pull it apart
I’ll be able to tell because it’s got like roller bearings big big web
bearings sitting in there okay and there are a number of them
and it allows the wheels to turn as they rotate so this when we pull it all apart
and all of this falls apart in the bearings and what we can actually look
inside here and we can tell how worn it is and and that will determine whether
or not we use the CB joint again and on here this edge here where the splines
are again we look to see how the splines and you’ll see the spline starts here
and what happens is they where they sharpen up these edges here and then you
get play and of course this play accentuates and eventually could shear
off it could actually strip so I’m trying to really decide Andrew do you
need new CV joints and this is worn the shaft is considerably worn okay and I’m
gonna show you there is a brand new one from terrain tamer okay what I love
about this is they pre grease it this is painful to try and do it’s really it’s
really hard work it’s really messy getting all the grease in there and it’s
supplied with the grease would actually just watch better
okay so now when we look at your area here with that seals running compain out
of those look so you can see that’s totally compromised so what’s gonna
happen here if this doesn’t seal this grease leaks into this part of the axle
and the oil that runs the depth is now going to become full of that grease
that’s what we don’t want and that’s why are we putting we are definitely
changing the shaft because the CV joints and the shafts are absolutely see you
can buy them separately terrain tamer sell them as a kit so they want you and
I actually endorse that if you’re changing the shaft change the CV joint
do it properly it’s a little bit of money but at least you know it’s done if
I pull the whole thing out and you didn’t have that groove there and I
stripped the CV joint and it really looked good inside and I looked at the
edge yellowing actually this feels good we’d reuse them we clean them up put
them back together and we’re going to use them nothing wrong with that those
are not these arms and we’re not going to risk that so
you’re gonna have brand new ones and and this is part of stripping down a vehicle
and unfortunately when you buy a vehicle like you did we didn’t know what we’re
going to find until we actually strip the components down and I always say to
people you buying a vehicle basing your decision on a number of factors so one
of the factors I said I would always look at is the condition of the chassis
the condition of the body you know actually want to see how the
person’s looked after the car that tells me a bit about how they probably drove
the car under the engine bay the oil condition is the oil clean do their
service at regularly when you start finding a trail of things which start to
give you doubt you’ve got to decide car hasn’t been serviced the interior looks
tacky it’s got rust underneath the body looks like it might have been painted
I’m walking away from that car so it’s a balance because I might find a really
good car that’s been cleaned up and then we open up the gearbox and there’s a
problem so we’re trying to have this very nice balance when you’re buying an
older car and same with with the best and most experienced someone likes named
on yourself myself we’ve we know cruises we love them we look for detail we’ll
look on the body line as this Paden accident we know your cars been painted
does the chassis look good your chassis is an amazing condition actually your
your engine bay looks good there’s not a lot of parts that people have modified
and added to it so those are all telling me a story on the life of this car when
we pull these out your dips on really good condition so that’s great
missus this way on the shaft that’s that’s wear and tear so I’m not too
worried about a shaft like that whirring and I’m probably sure if we pull the CV
apart my gut says it’s probably going to be okay and we’d have to just test the
splines so trying to make decisions at the end of the day that means is this
car going to be safe reliable and drive that to three hundred thousand
kilometers without major component

100 thoughts on “AXLES, CVS & BEARINGS. NEW LIFE for a 20-Yr OLD LAND CRUISER part-8”

  1. Leenderd Houtzager says:

    Very good advise, good to hear it from a professional like Paul Marsh

  2. Leenderd Houtzager says:

    Very good advise, good to hear it from a professional like Paul Marsh

  3. Giacomo Ardizzon says:

    This is the kind of content that should be promoted to the highest level from YouTube itself.
    Keep it up Andrew. You are creating a masterpiece content for Overlanding lovers.

  4. b monck says:

    Paul is terrific for the details that we all really need to travel with these vehicles

  5. Matt Luszczak says:

    I dont think there are much so garages that look after their clients better than others. Fact is people dont want to pay for preventative maintenance. Not leaking . Dont change it. Not falling off. Dont change it. I can imagine garages here that all the time. 20 year old vehicle? Want to put it into service. Have a fleet mentality minor restore like the one here you see is significant otherwise your running the gauntlet

  6. Matt Luszczak says:

    I think the broken reverse gear is from snatch strap in reverse. I doubt starting a car in reverse on a hill can damage a gear like that from a stop start.
    Also grease removing hardening…..thats a first. Wheel bearings and their races are both hardened steel and they usually run i grease…….

  7. Garth Hayward says:

    I recently rebuilt my 1959 Willys Wagon Dana/Spicer 25 front Axle and they are configured exactly the same as these on the Land Cruiser with closed knuckles, spindles and bearings. We set the preload using shims and a fish weight scale 😀. Point is you can do this work by yourself just make sure you get top class replacement parts. You'll learn a huge amount about your vehicle and it's great fun doing this work.

  8. Hartz187 says:

    Best video on this theme in a looong while. Very informative in a proffesional way without pushing the salesman on ✌️ cheerz from wayup north of Norway

  9. Harold clark says:

    Nice fj in the background

  10. Charles Taylor says:

    I’ve decided the most important tool to keep in your vehicle is what’s known as a Blue Fleece Paul.

  11. Harvey Smith says:

    The moral of the story is, if you buy a reliable vehicle like a LandCruiser, don't fit cheap Chinese parts because you will then have a Chinese Vehicle.

  12. Andre Muller says:

    I see that the old shaft has a phonic wheel on it ie. Abs but the new one doesn't have one. If that shaft is used you're going to encounter problems

  13. dazza421970 says:

    Thank you Paul and Andrew, very educational.

  14. Andre Muller says:

    If you're in the bush with a wheel bearing issue and the stub axle has been worn you can knurl the housing to get you out of a pinch.
    Paul could perhaps explain that too. Personally I would not reuse wheel bearings as the case hardening can start to flake off if it hasn't already. They're cheap and small enough to take a complete new kit with.
    Perhaps you could also show a newer one piece wheel bearing design that gets pressed in, and is a bugger to do in the field.

  15. itll doo says:

    so if your in the market for a older 4by, get a job at terrain tamer first………

  16. John Adams says:

    Wow, I learned a few things from this. Thank you. I also highly recommend that everyone needs to rebuild an axle a few times, it's critical to understand this and have the experience in case something goes wrong in the field.

  17. Roger M says:

    An episode about greasing the shaft. 😀

  18. George Mercieca says:

    Hi Andrew and Paul , would love to see a step by step install of the bearing and the cvs

  19. Jez Swallow says:

    These have been the most fascinating series of vlogs you've done! I am mesmerised by the detail and 'car story' line Paul can put together through the components he sees. 5*+. Keep them coming Andrew.

  20. Outback Images says:

    Imagine a beer with Paul Marsh and Allan Gray from Terrain Tamers…. the stuff you would learn !

  21. Einar Steinsson says:

    When you are pulling out a stuck vehicle, never do it in reverse, it is not good for your gearbox and diffs either.

  22. 6wilbur9 says:

    Paul's knowledge, delivery, explanations and patient demeanor is always great to watch. Fantastic series!!

  23. Scott Saylors says:

    Soooo with all the things wrong you could’ve bought a new land cruiser lol jk

  24. Sridhar sridhar says:

    Beautifully explained.

  25. Jason howe says:

    Paul be honest the 20 year old cruiser has been used and abused it is a safe bet you'll be wasting cash rebuilding the engine and the whole drive train to the point you might aswell just build the whole car again that way you know it is safe to drive..

    you are essentially rebuilding the whole thing from scratch you might aswell source a new crate motor from toyota rather build in a new kit and then have the motor fuck itself after it gets in the dirt and sand..

    Andrew you have paid for a lemon to be honest looking at the damage scoring there I would hate to see what la within the engine bay and in that motor I am truly wondering whether it is worth rebuilding the engine is money well spent or doe it become a money pit to keep it on the road or in this case a dirt track..

  26. Revnge7Fold says:

    Love this series!

  27. Rene de boer says:

    thank you Paul compromise to detail ,, you totally right if you do it and care about it
    do a good job other wise stay of it ,,, you will get a good car back this way Andrew 🙂

  28. Stumpknocker Garage says:

    Andrew, you're in the best hands with your truck, Paul is a special human….the way he explains everything is absolutely perfect, he cares for what's best for you and your vehicle. Paul, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us

  29. Trevor Fidge says:

    Hope Paul gets that cough looked at , as it doesn’t sound to good.

  30. Ethereal Searching says:

    Now I know why the guy who sold you the car had it facing nose out in the shed before you drove off. Had you reversed it out the drive you never would have accepted it. Sneaky move I will be wary of in buying second hand cars in future.

  31. kawa says:

    you will spend a lot of money, but you will have a brave machine for life .

  32. bluefunkenator says:

    Glad to hear you will do an episode on the 40s – I used to have a 1980 BJ42, was a great vehicle, lots of good times and memories.

  33. John Doe says:

    Put a factory turbo in it

  34. Austin L. Wright says:

    This series is excellent. Wish we had the diesel 105’s in the US.

  35. Gerald Swain says:

    The table in the w/shop with tablecloth is it set up for the purpose of al fresco lunches ?.

  36. Jonathan Swatts says:

    The statement about never starting a car in reverse – when you go on an off-road driving course one of the first things they teach you is what to do if you stall while ascending a steep hill and the procedure actually involves starting the car under compression (i.e. with foot off the clutch) in reverse. I assume the fact that you are not "dropping the clutch" means there wont be any shock load to the reverse gear teeth?

  37. Ola Eriksson says:

    When i roll start a car i use hi 2 or low 4. I've been told not to roll start a car in first or reverse by a Volvo mechanic because that was basically the only way to destroy a Volvo 240 gearbox.

  38. Greg Houghton says:

    So much information. A great learning experience.

  39. Carlo Borromeo says:

    Beautiful 43 series. I can't wait to hear/see your feature on the 40 series! Looking forward mate!👍🏻😊🍻

  40. Pasquale Aliberti says:

    Great video Andrew. Fantastic insights! But I agree that this is a restoration now …

  41. chrisfi3d C says:

    25:35 – when he sees the end bill.

  42. pål aukan says:

    If I only could bring one spare part on these vehicles, it would be a front wheel bearing. I always carry a spare set of bearings in the car.

  43. Rob Coates says:

    Just wanted to say, I am really loving this series. More please 🙂

  44. Kilango Ndongo says:

    Nice combinationa of you two
    Thank you for this series

  45. Carlos António says:

    This is one of the best series you have done. Continue to make content like this. I would like to see a final list of things that really must be changed by the end of the show.

  46. Kelly Drolet says:

    Great teacher. I liked the direct relationship of weight to wear and servicing. I find this is where people and mechanical shops miss the mark. If anything I will be more competent and confident at doing on the road repairs – thanks.

  47. derealove Survival says:

    Coming along nicely good video thanks for sharing ATB and God bless you all..

  48. Edward Peters says:

    This episode makes me very happy I insisted on a front axle rebuild straight away when I purchased an 80 series in January. Also I'm wicked jealous of the Terrain Tamer service kits.

  49. Caesar Githinji says:

    Hats off Andrew! This is the most practical series I have watched from you.

  50. Graham Fielder says:

    Masterclass supreme. Well done team. Parts sponsor should be delighted.

  51. Kevin Louwrens says:

    Paul knows his stuff. Respect.

  52. Toni Butkovic says:

    Again… amazing knowledge build by experience! Just wooow!

  53. Emad Uddin says:

    After this much replacement of parts, isnt the cost (Parts+labour+Andrew visiting SA for rebuild project) gonna reach to a level near to new vehicle.

  54. Icelandic overland Icelandic overland says:

    The best mechanic ever he should open a shop near my house

  55. David Woods says:

    Easiest video ASPW has ever made, thanks to Paul.

  56. Chris Kituu says:

    Pauls perspective and attention to details is so refreshing. Big up overland

  57. Thorsten Wanoth says:

    Awesome to see a bunch a middle aged guys getting older relating a detailed story of oils and grease mixing! Huge wealth of knowledge. Awesome story here.

  58. acwijj says:

    Are we going to get a break down of how much all of this costs? I'd love to do this to my FJ but I can only imagine how prohibitively expensive this must be.

  59. MaasaiGainz on Cars says:

    THIS SERIES IS SIMPLY GETTING BETTER AND BETTER. Looking forward to the next 4 episodes or so! Great work ASPW

  60. Keith Armitage says:

    Just wondering what grease Paul uses for the hubs? We've found graphite grease really good for tractor front wheel hubs in bad conditions. Great series, looking forward to the next episode.

  61. Bilal Ahmed says:

    I can set and watch talking Paul's and hearing his voice for hours and hours. Beautiful.

  62. LONE GALLOPER Overland says:

    you've outdone yourselves again. yet another top notch video ram packed with knowledge. I am in awe, or should I say in love with how well Mr. Marsh conducts and explains himself. thank you again for posting these videos Andrew!

  63. Tbone Steak says:

    Paul needs a noble peace prize 😁

  64. Farouk Wasswa says:

    Am watching and following every bit of every step of the build and I can't wait to see this car finished. 😎😎

  65. Brenden Mannix says:

    Thanks for these vids. Paul Marsh just has a great way of sharing his Knowledge! Thank you both, Ive now got enough knowledge to get myself into trouble 🙂

  66. Terry Smith says:

    Nice 40

  67. Finnian Fitzsimons says:

    Do you think you’ll ever have another Land Rover?

  68. GGFCHMMAL says:

    Thank goodness for Terrain Tamer hey Andrew. Paul is so meticulous he needs to replace everything.

  69. Michael Mears says:

    I like Paul's explanation of bearings, seals and the lubricants involved. Well covered.

  70. Andrew says:

    I love this. Completely unlike any conversation I’ve EVER had with a mechanic. The devil is in the details

  71. Ashley Forrest says:

    This is just pure gold….loving the series, makes me want to rebuild an old cruiser!

  72. Alex Barrett says:

    Thoroughly enjoying this series. I tend to love big trip vlogs more but this is a really great insight into the processes behind a rebuild.

  73. John Doe says:

    Paul have asthma?

  74. Chris York says:

    Toyota copied the diff placement from LR, but not the CV trap release – that was interesting. Toyota xJ parts were very close to GM parts in size for diff parts and 6 cyl. gas engine parts. I'm trying to think of some Japanese original design….
    Apperently LC is still unique for using a lot of natural rubber.

  75. scubbarookie says:

    Paul has that no nonsense approach to rebuilding a Landcruiser, and this in the end is a major game changer! He's one of the very best! Thank you! 👍

  76. Alan Anderson says:

    We drove a Landcruiser all around Iceland and into the high country. What a jewel.

  77. Nelson Brügger says:

    Great Andrew!

  78. Henry Green says:

    Man what a series ! I am learning so much. Conclusion – in my next life I WILL have a friend like Paul !!!

  79. Christian Kruse says:

    Keep going!

  80. mdirtydogg says:

    Another excellent episode in this series. I really like the way Paul explains things and the fact that he is not interrupted unnecessarily.

  81. fetcher321 says:

    This is a great series, Andrew. Thank you for doing this. Paul has a wealth of knowledge and cares about what he does. His explanations inspire confidence in his decisions through the course of a rebuild.

  82. Steve L says:

    Bullshit this
    Amount of money spent
    Just go buy a new car
    You will be paying his next holiday

  83. Lawrence Honable says:

    Very informative 👍🏿💯

  84. Troy Angrignon says:

    One of the best mini-series you've ever done. You're going to make Paul and Joubert stars. This has been incredibly useful and enlightening, not because I'm rebuilding a 20 yr old Landcruiser but just to see how he thinks about the various issues and to hear you back and forth questions. So thrilled you decided to buy this truck. Maybe you're not but it's making for good video!

  85. Jimbo Jones says:

    As a Toyota mechanic, everything Paul says is absolutely true 100%. A lot of service centres overlook the smaller details causing premature wear of vital components like stub axles and CV's. It's getting harder for a lot of people to find a good mechanic that understands how to properly diagnose mechanical components. I thoroughly enjoyed this video!

  86. Johannes Schaller says:

    Some of the penny pinching by keeping used parts as spares seems out of place here, especially given the significant cost of this restoration. From an earlier episode, while the belts might look okay, retaining them as spares for an expedition is a little too miserly for my comfort. If a belt snaps, you want to make sure that its replacement will last the rest of the trip. Likewise in this episode, holding on to the front wheel bearings as spares doesn’t make sense when Paul said a few minutes before that they’re not very expensive. New parts are generally supplied in damp-proof packaging, and there’s no chance of mixing up the outer shells. While Paul’s surgeon-like attention to detail is admirable, this kind of money saving approach is incongruous with the rest of the restoration.

  87. Grab Me Gear says:

    Fantastic how you and Paul sharing your knowledge through this series, very informative…👍

  88. JS Jensen says:

    Always awesome info. Paul's recommendation on service intervals at 5k (3100 miles) is a bit often, no? Overlanding loads all considered. Clearly I am way too low on the income and time ranking.

  89. Adam Moodley says:

    The knowledge that this series is giving me is extremely valuable. A huge thank you to Paul and Andrew. This series is life changing!!!

  90. Adam Moodley says:

    My only concern is how do I find a garage that will pay this level of detail to the work they do on my vehicle…

  91. 3920cruz says:

    It seems to me that having a rebuild to expedition quality LC by this company would not save any money at all. I see time and materials warning lights flashing!!! It would just be better to buy a new or late model vehicle that has good life left in it. is he correct about the changes, basically yes. But in the end, the whole point of the old vehicle and repairs is to save money. If you end up spending up to 75% of what new OEM costs, then it is a futile effort, because in the end it is still an old truck! Now if the money is spent on after market specialty parts designed for hard core off-roading, then it can be a different animal. But here we are replacing OEM parts to get it up and running in a reliable way. I have to say this is a failure because if Andrew had to pay for all parts and service, it would be a no go!!!

  92. Pieter Berkhout says:

    I wish we had mechanics like this in the Netherlands. It so hard to find good people here. Problem is we all want affordable repairs and mechanics here dont make a lot of money. Circle thing. Good mechanics diserve more respect and money. I would spend more if I knew I could trust them 100%.

  93. Rob Mac says:

    Gotta say I don't necessarily agree that the CV Grease mixing with the Diff oil can take off the case hardening of the R&P gears… Plenty of vehicles around where the diff oil also lube the wheel bearings and therefore also lube the CV's. U don't initially install these CV's w/o grease either, so the CV grease ends up mixing with the Diff oil w/o any harm at all..

  94. huss1205 says:

    so instead of fuel, food and water for the trip, you end up with a half ton of spare parts for your 2000 km journey…

  95. OneHung Lo says:

    How you change wooden bearing on horse cart?


    Ummm, great tips for the wheel bearing! That guy is very very meticulous! We need more of him as car technician!

  97. Jim's 4x4 says:

    Looking forward to seeing more of the 40's 🙂

  98. slowboat says:

    Paul is a legend. Love your work mate.

  99. Carter Hamlet says:

    What is that seal that separates the cv-axle grease from the diff fluid referred to as? I'm curious as to whether this is unanimous between most SUV offroading vehicles?

  100. Sam says:

    Man, this Paul guy is amazing. I want him to work on my 60 series, but i'm in Australia…

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