– [RCSparks] Well, here we are guys. It’s been a wonderful build so far, I hope you’ve been enjoying it, make sure to smash that Like button if you’ve been watching the series. This is the last piece that I finished, it was the floor plate,
the servo-driven interior, and the never seen
before adjustable seats. Now, this is all 1/6 scale
stuff that you’re looking at, it’s quite large. Look at this, this is
the Sixer I Samurai body that we built, it has magnetic doors, latching rear door, latching front hood, moving
functional windshield wipers servo-based, as well as roll up windows, actual roll up windows,
you heard me right. On this side you can see that I built the engine and transmission. This is where the motor
is housed on the inside, as well as the output shaft. I did take this apart and put the bearings in the shifting fork that I
missed in the first episode, and took off the top part,
painted it the same accent color. So, this is ready to go. Now, the final push, let’s
build the bottom frame rails and the suspension. For any kinda metal-on-metal with screws into frame rails or anything like that I am gonna be using a Blue Thread Lock. Handy little tip I show from time to time just put your Thread
Lock right into a lid. Looks like I need to get some more. (laughs) Hey, a little Thread Lock goes a long way. So, both frame rails and it
looks like these pieces here are gonna be shock hangers. Dah! And in this beautifully packaged piece, I’m going to need these
two in the top corner. And these ones, this one, and this one. Come back here! The first bag we need is I the M3 Eights to install two into
this back rail bracket. Isn’t that a nice perch? And then, we need this
triangle right here, which is gonna get mounted
up out the side like that. But be careful if you’re building along because this piece is gonna need bag L. And we’re gonna install
the front piece like that. Couple of the same bag Is. So, just a tap into the Loctite. And then, basically, you’re just mimicking the same thing on the front. The only noticeable thing to mention is that this one in the
front uses two screws and that this one at the
back only called for one. And of course, once one sides done, do the exact same to the other. What is this? This is the first piece that actually strings these two together. So, right through these larger
holes right here and here. Okay, I’ll just turn these
pieces around like this. Gonna slide the piece into the end. And then same thing, but I’m making sure that the screw holes and the flat spots are facing that direction. So, straight vertical. I’m gonna go ahead and flip
this right upside down. There are two grub holes
right here and here. I’m gonna put two grab screws in here to make sure this rod doesn’t twist. And those come in bag JM. And just the smallest
amount of Thread Lock. Thank goodness ’cause I don’t have a lot. (laughs) So, here you can have a look. Now, you remember right
here where I showed there was only one screw that went in? This is because this is where
we install the cross brace. This black bar right here goes in there and you use from bag L,
those big long 14 mils. So, for now, this is the frame that you should have on either side. Everything looking
symmetrical, let’s move on. If you’re just joining us,
this is the instruction video that I have to go on. They don’t have an
instruction book per se, but you can go and scroll through, they show you what kinda bag you need, what should be in there, and how to assemble
the parts step by step. Now, for the next pieces, we need these, and straight across for the gears. Well, that’s easy to pick
out of the box, one, two. Now, these are very small thin pieces, but they seem strong. Okay, so gears, and
rods, and the whole deal, when you’re building a small
transfer case like this, you normally have like a shaft, a bearing which will go on this side, and a rod that goes through the center. Well, this little one has
three of them all together. So, you can see one is an output
drive for the drive shaft, and then the top one is
gonna be the same thing. So, I’m gonna take a bearing. I’m actually gonna seed it
right into the housing itself. Makes it a little bit easier I found, as a tip or trick I guess if
you are building along with me. Personal preference, I would say. And then, of course, add one to the final. Then I can take this outside housing. What I wanna do is add
a dab a grease in there nothing too substantial
’cause I don’t wanna lock up those gears with grease. And then, cinch this down on the outside. A side note, look how
amazing and thin this is. That is just incredible, I love this. So, then you wanna get a little drive cup. Now, if you’re looking
for the pin in the JM bag mine is actually in the drive cup itself. So, I’m gonna back out that screw, and I’m going to identify which
side of this housing I need. And it’s these two on this
side, top output drive that’s we’re I’m gonna attach this cup. And then, if you look really closely, there are four little holes here with four little pieces that I need. And a whole bunch from this
tray down in this area. So, specifically this piece,
this piece, that piece, these two pieces, this under bracket, and of course this piece right here. Okay, you’re about to get T-bagged. This is easy, two by eights,
I need to make the mount for this output drive to
be actually on the frame. So, this is the first mounting piece, we’re gonna be hooking this up to the two holes that are
here, and using your T bag to pull out two eight inch, or eight mils, and sinking it deep. Thread Lock all day every day. You don’t want this
stuff coming apart on you when you’re out on the trail. So, a little Thread Lock now will save you a lot of heartache later. And then, attach the other
arm to the other side, and this is pretty much
what you’re looking at. When you go to drop it in make sure that the silver bar is facing the right way, and of course, the output drive is also facing the correct way. It’s gonna go right here. I’m going to install it with two screws on either side from bag J. Enter in this little piece. This is a small bracket that I just put on to something quite interesting. What could this be used for? Once you make the bracket, get out a standard steering
servo that’s powerful. Make sure it’s in the neutral position, and then get it mounted up. Now bag W has the extra long screws, that’s what I need for the servo mount. Now, remember those four
little small pieces? Have a look, they turned out
to be spacers just like that. And then, I noticed on
the top of this arm, it says differential system. Okay, and you’ll see in the frame there are two mounting
spots, two holes right there. Why? All right, let’s focus there, right there, and then opposite on the other side, I’m just gonna go ahead and drop this in. Come on, get in there. With one hand is a little
bit more challenging. Put two screws in there,
I believe from bag J. There is the screws going in, and then we finally get to
move on to the axle, yes! So, I’m gonna need some
steering rods, some suspension. Okay, lots of pieces to lay out, yes! Please add grease to the axles. Okay, so there is the steering axle. And there are the parts that are needed. Here’s my screwdriver by the way, just to give you an idea
how big that axle really is. It is a giant. Plus, also have a look
at the steering rod here. This is a behind the axle steering rod. They all come with rubber grommets, and like it’s rubber on
the outside but obviously, some sort of metal on the inside. So you don’t really
have any kinda squeaking or wearing out issues
when you’re on the trail and things are getting dusty and dirty. What I’m gonna do is I’m
gonna use two of these screws from bag K, and I’m
gonna thread them in here and here attaching this steering rod. This is what that will look like. So, it’s from underneath up. So, I did use Thread
Lock on those, of course. Now, speaking of those little
shafts and rubber grommets, I’m gonna need these ones right here. I’m gonna start installing
them into these links. So, rubber, rubber, rubber, and then that sleeve in each one. And then, I’m gonna take one of these, I’m gonna stand it up. And the secondary part looks like this. Hey, Capo is always known for
unique stuff, look at this, it goes right over those
rubber islets or grommets, so I’m gonna have to
do this with two hands. Just like that. Now, both sides are done
and screwed together, protecting the steering
rod with this indentation right underneath like that. And then, over to the bags
that have got messed up over the last few days for
the 22 millimeter screws, and they are both attached, you can see moving
independently and freely. You guys must be noticing
the disc brakes on here, maybe possibly excited about
seeing calipers on here. I don’t see any calipers in the kit, but you never know the
way Capo does designing, they may have something
in the hopper already, especially, ’cause it
already comes with them. They’re gonna look great
behind their beadlock wheels. And then, I’m gonna bring that axle in, slide right underneath. And you can see these two hangers here that is where these are gonna be put in with two screws from bag M,
and a nut on the other side. And then, once that is attached, I have to install the Panhard bar, but not before I show you I
attached the rear axle as well. Da-da-da! That is super cool. These, everything you’re looking
at nothing is plastic guys, it’s all alloy or metal of some sort. Like even these outside
hubs, metal, listen. (hub bangs on surface) It was only while trying to figure out what the heck was going on
with the steering system that I realized what a
complete fool I had been. It says differential system on it because all of it is
the differential system and this will be the cable pulling horn. I thought earlier that this was gonna be some sort of unique steering horn because Capo usually does some sort of cable driven steering, but it turns out that,
that is not the case for this back servo. So, I’ve actually swapped it out. Since this is the locking mechanism for the differential system. This is the DEKO servo I was
gonna use, not as strong, it didn’t need to be a
super heavy steering servo, but instead I thought I’d catch
you up to date because man, the Panhard links up on
a frame mount of course, right down to the axle. Now, the axle has a small
hole right here, you can see, if I move this out of the
way, right there in the center that’s where the Panhard’s gonna line up. Being 1/6 scale,
everything is easy to see. So, there is the Panhard in place. Then, I’m able to introduce
these beautiful shocks. Now, I’ve already gone through
and filled these with oil, they come preassembled
and all you have to do is fill them with oil from the top. So, the shock mount and the spring perch. You are used to seeing them
get installed this way, and I’m sure if you wanted to you could, but actually in the instructions, they show you doing it the other way. So, shaft side up. And then after install,
looks just like that. It’s quite a bit of travel on it. Now, imagine this, this is
why it was extra confusing because there’s a Panhard link
right here even at the back, so Panhard at the front and
Panhard bar at the back. It stops all that twisting around. Now, if you’ve never
worked with cables before, for differentials and stuff,
be careful not to fray the end, you wanna make sure not to
have any spare wires there. Not only can they poke you, and it hurts like a son of a gun, but it also makes it difficult
for you to thread later. So, the entire time I’ve been
careful not to wreck the end. This is a small spring,
it’s actually a wire sheath that slides over that wire. And here’s the neat little
bag of parts that I need to start with these black ones. I’m also gonna slide that down the cable, then I grab the spring,
slide that down the cable. It’s gonna go inside the cup. Then, one of the red stoppers. You guessed it, and right in. Then the second spring sleeve. This all goes through
the differential system, and then I’m threading
it through this hole. And then, I’m gonna unspool,
and basically do the same thing with the back cable. I’ll thread it through the second hole. And then, I had to make this
little contraption right here, which is like how the diff lock works, it’s gonna have one on either side. But if you see that, that’s
the cable puller up at the top. This mount I have on here is backwards, it should be inset so it
can take these springs. So, now both of them are installed, you can have a look here. So, what has to happen, and this is kind of a really unique thing. I love the engineering behind this. I gotta put the cable through this, then I’m gonna put a
small ball bearing in here that’s gonna push up against the cable. Then, I’m gonna put a
small set screw in here which is gonna help lock
that cable in place. And then, I’m taking
my set screw right now, I’m gonna put a little bit
of Loctite on it, off camera. And then, because I have
a magnetic screwdriver, I’m going to stick the ball
bearing right on the end, if you guys can see that. And then, just like that. Gonna make the cable not too
tight, just taught though. And then, just gently cinching it up. Done. Now, here my kit kinda goes
away from the stock build as since I’m a marketing
partner, I’m lucky enough to get all the option
parts that come through. Well, this is the plastic bumper sitting on top of the cast alloy bumper. You’ll see the alloy bumper also has a hitch that you can use. So, I’m gonna take this one,
that’s why it’s not painted, just show you that this is the one that would come with the kit. You’d have to pre-paint it. And of course, this is the
option kit that is available. If you guys are interested in
getting this particular kit or any kinda other Capo stuff, check the information box
down below I have linked to my friend’s website Kai Wong, trusted source for Capo
products in Hong Kong, you guys go ahead and use that, check out more information below. Let’s get this installed. So, the first thing on the back you’ll notice there is two screws. There’s also screws for the back plating but I’m gonna focus on the
screws for this bar right here. Let me show you installed. Well, and here it is, it isn’t your run-of-the-mill build guys, this is see and seed. Look at this, you can
even look in the corners, it looks like a nice TIG weld. Absolutely stunning, I
love how it’s cut out. You can even get the
light shadow occurring. Look at this back here. You’re probably bugging
me right now going, “Hey, why didn’t you take your
Sharpie and color those in?” And truly, just for today’s ease of use, and I don’t have the Sharpies with me but I believe that these
lights like the reverse, the left, all these they’re gonna light up the color that they are. Then when I confirm what
color they should be, then I’ll crack it open and color it in the way it should be done. It’s beautiful, let’s
put on the drive shafts. And of course, the drive
shafts are not the same length. If you’re gonna be
following the instructions to the book or to the letter, this one will be going in
the back of the machine, short one in the rear. Ha ha, that’s what she said. These drive shafts actually
don’t split into two pieces. Most drive shafts will
actually come apart. But thankfully, this
actually doesn’t allow us to have these outta sync at all. So they will be perfect,
and they won’t be vibrating or causing any kinda undue
stress on the drive train. And then, because we’re
kicking butt on this build and moving our way through it nicely, let’s drop in the motor and transmission. Now, the motor and transmission needs the tiniest little
connecting drive shaft between this and the transfer case. So, we can put this in here. And that’s all fine and dandy, but how the heck do we attach it? Well, that’s where
these little four pieces or four spacers come in, with screws from bag N
which are quite long. Mm, 40 mils of screwing. Right under the spring perch that’s where the longest
screw goes straight through on either side and now you
have a suspended engine. And then the four springs, ta-da! (spring pops) Whoa! (laughs) Wow! And everyone’s okay, settle
down, I signed the waiver. These are ready to get installed. One right there. And then, of course on all four corners where those spring perches were. I’ll have to recover the other spring. Now, here is the second
option part for the bumpers. This is the front bumper
with a winch mount as well. It also comes with its own hardware, in case you need to know. Now, if you’re actually installing
this same bumper as I am, you can make sure to
remove the grab screws that we had put in here to
hold this metal bar in place. So, you can thread all the
way through into the frame. Ah-ha, for the steering. So, this is actually gonna
get mounted through the frame through those two screw
holes right in the front. So, I’m gonna be able to do it like that, creating a spot for the
steering servo up here. Here is my DEKO servo that I’m gonna use. Totally waterproof. 30 kilograms, brushless, super powerful, straight out of Taiwan. These things are amazing. So, I’m gonna be hooking this up. So, what I wanna do,
isn’t that epic looking? What I wanna do is take
this lead right here, and plug it into the servo
machine, where is it? Right there. What I used a machine like this for was when I had multiple servos, like when I had a dual
servo steering setup on my low C5, I had to use
this machine to actually help make sure that both servos
were not fighting each other. So, once this is hooked up, then you hook up the power source. So, now everything’s hooked in and I can select what I wanna do, do I wanna manually move it? Do I wanna put it in the neutral position or do I want it to auto center? So, right now it’s manual. So, if I turn the dial,
I can actually turn to where I want it to be. If I want it to be in
the neutral position, it automatically changes it to neutral, that way when I power everything
up after hooking it on, I don’t have it going
to one side either or, and having to change the steering horns. So, that’s the way I’d like it. And look at that monster
steering horn guys. Wow, this is the steering
rod that’s gonna control that front horn of this axle right here. So, I’m finally off the stack of tires, and looking forward to the next episode when we can bring this chassis,
and of course, my driver and this cover that was
absolutely amazing to assemble, and to just experience
on video all together, and then marry it to this chassis. Are you kidding me guys? Look at this, I still have option parts, and other things to put on here. But off camera I went ahead and assembled the three-piece actual alloy beadlock rims. Now, these are 2.8 size
diameter tires on the inside, Capo tires here. These rims actually get directly
mounted right to the axle. We call them rims in Canada
they’re called wheels everywhere else, I know I get it. Look at that, the beadlocks
totally looking fantastic. Guys, I still have electronics to do. Did you want me to do that
in a video so you can see it or do you want me just
to get this together, and get it out on the trail? Give me a comment in the
Comments section down below wherever you can, and
smash that Like button for all the innovation. Show Capo that you at least appreciate the amount of thought that
went into a build like this, and the design. Guys, will see you in the next episode. Thanks for tuning in. Catch you later, bye.

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