Changing Road Bike Wheel Freehubs & Lubing Jockey Wheels | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech
Changing Road Bike Wheel Freehubs & Lubing Jockey Wheels | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech

(metallic swooshing) – Welcome back to the GCN Tech Clinic, where we’ll try and
solve your bike problems that have been pestering
you and have stopped you getting out on the bike
and enjoying yourself, so if you’ve got one,
leave it for me down there in the comment section below, and also, why not try and leave me one
on all forms of social media, using the hashtag #ASKGCNTECH. With no further ado let’s have
the first question this week, and it comes in from
Jason F, who says they “currently have a Mavic
wheelset with the XDR hub “that they use on a bike with SRAM AXS, “they want to start using
the wheelset on a winter bike “which has a Shimano groupset, “what are the steps of doing this? “Is it as easy as just replacing
the cassette on the wheels “to the 11:30 Shimano
cassette that they have? “Or does Jason need to
change the hub as well, “for it to be compatible? “Do you have to use a
specific wheelhub for Shimano “versus Campagnolo versus SRAM groupsets? “They’re all a bit confusing for me.” Right, I’m going to answer
this one, and hopefully it solves all these questions
you’ve got there, so; you’ve got that SRAM
12-speed on there you say, because you’re using AXS, so you’re using a special XDR driver on
the body, the freehub body, so with that, if you
take off your cassette, you can’t put a Shimano one on there because it just doesn’t fit
the splines or anything. So, you can’t also use that wheel with your Shimano groupset
because that’s 11-speed, and you’ve got a 12-speed
cassette on there, so it’s not going to work. So, your only option here is to actually remove the freehub body, and
then put a new one on there, so a Shimano compatible
one, so for that, XD driver or an XDR driver. It’s fairly simple to do,
in fact I’m pretty sure the wheels you’ve got are
probably even the tool-free ones, so it’s nice and easy,
you don’t have to unlock or undo anything whatsoever,
you simply pop off an end-cap, you pull off the freehub
body, put the other one on, put the cassette on and
go, and you are happy. Now, your other question
on there was asking about one which works on SRAM,
Campagnolo and Shimano, I think that’s what you meant by it; no, there’s nothing really
because the latest versions of SRAM and Campagnolo are
12-speed, Shimano’s 11-speed… Shimano and SRAM, normal cassettes, they use the same fitting system, so it’s the same sort of spline pattern, Campagnolo uses a deeper one. There are some hubs out
there, I think it was PMP, possibly an Italian
brand, who had something that worked with both
types, probably wasn’t PMP, I think I just made that or imagined that, but it was definitely one of
their, Miche, possibly Miche, they did something that
worked with both cassettes, but, it wouldn’t of course work with that SRAM 12-speed cassette, because they use a very
small cog on there, that simply won’t go onto a
standard diameter freehub body. Hopefully, that’ll see
you all right though with those answers,
essentially in essence, you need to get yourself
a Shimano freehub body for those Mavic wheels. Right, next we’ve got Ron
Gatenby, or Gatenby, who says “do you have to do anything special “with your front derailleur if you want “to try an oval front ring setup?” Right then Ron, thinking
about going oval, are we? Nothing major to do here,
what you do want to do though, is rotate your cranks, so that
the chain ring is in its most ovallised position I
guess, where it goes near the front derailleur, so you want it so it’s at the high point if you like, of those rings. You then need to adjust the
front derailleur up slightly, probably, just so it can
clear it, ’cause obviously if you don’t, if you try
and shift it, it’s just going to bash against the
inside of the chain ring and probably render
the front mech useless, and scratch it up, if not that. So that’s really all
you need to worry about, something to consider though,
is when you are changing gear, it’s probably not going to
be quite as silky smooth as a chain set is from the
factory, because generally you’re asking it to jump
just slightly higher, of course if you’re using
an oval inner ring as well, it kind of is all right, but
it’s not, it’s never quite perfect, you know, it’s
like, it’s almost perfect, but it’s just like a
hair’s width difference. Yes, so you use your legs
almost as a clutch mechanism if you like, so just back
off the gas a little bit, so just ease off, and allow
the chain just to climb up, and then lay down those watts again. Next up is Yahya Baali,
that is a cool name. Really cool name. “Hi Jon, I was wondering
for pulley wheels. “Do I need to lube them
after cleaning my bike? “I usually remove all
the grime from the teeth, “and then dry them. I don’t know if I have “cartridge bearings or
not. It’s the original “pulley wheels that came on
my R8000 mech. Thank you, “and have a great day.” Right, pretty sure they are
cartridge bearings in there, either way if they’re cartridge, or you use the standard ceramic bushes, I always like to give
them a little bit of lube after I wash the bike, so
make sure it’s nice and dry, then this is the only time I would suggest laying your bike on its side, if you’ve watched anything
of mine before you’ll know there’s a few things I don’t
like; one is noisy bikes, one is bikes upside
down, and the other one is leaning bikes on their side, basically. You want to work on a bike when it’s in it’s right place but, if you want to lube those
pulley wheels, obviously you don’t want to take them
out of the mech each time, ’cause it’s bit troublesome,
bit of a hassle really, so, lean the bike on its side,
get yourself some chain lube, something like in a bottle.
I prefer to use a bottle than an aerosol for
this, because it’s just, you can control it a lot easier,
because aerosols obviously it blasts out and you
can’t sort-of control that quite as easily, so get
the rear mech there, and just apply a few drops
to each one, and then with the bike back up in
its natural, normal state, just back-pedal a little bit,
but before you back-pedal, you want to allow that chain
lube, you can use dry, wet doesn’t really matter, just
to soak in a bit more really, so that all of the bearings are going to get a nice coating there, and like I say if you’re not using a
sealed bearing in there, it will find its way
into the bushing, too. Sealed bearings; they are sealed obviously that’s the name of them,
but generally it will just help it a little bit as
well, and it could well just flush out any of the grime too. Now we’ve got Milos Duric,
who says “Hello to all at GCN, “great show as always! The
thing I see a lot of debate “about on forums”–
Right, first off, forums. They can be an absolute
minefield of information. We’re not going to go there today, though. Anyway, “a lot of debate,
about replacing the chain “before doing the same
thing with cassettes. “Many people have had
skipping issues, and claim “that a new cassette is almost a must “when you replace the chain. “Does the new chain/old cassette
combo need breaking in?” Right, I’m going to set
something straight here, from my own experience, I’ve been cycling for quite some time now. No, you don’t need to break
it in at all, providing you’ve replaced your chain in time, if you’ve let it wear away,
now chains don’t stretch, people say they stretch,
they don’t, they wear, okay. The two things are pretty different. I’ve already, I can feel
the comment section below getting lit up, right,
because I’ve just said that. Anyway, provided you’ve
replaced your chain in time it’s not necessary to
put a new cassette on. One of the easiest and
most simplest things that everybody out there can do, and I’m going to get on
my soap box, just quickly, is just wash your bikes,
take real care of them, your drive chain, it is in the firing line of all the rubbish that
comes up off the road; the salt, the grit, the
sand, the dirt, everything, and when it gets inside the chain that acts like a cutting paste on your beautiful chain rings,
your expensive cassette, your pulley wheels, everything,
and it starts to wear out. Get yourself some de-greaser,
and just spray it over when your chain starts to get manky, and give it a good clean, and everything is going
to last way longer. Now, you say this about
casettes need replacing; I reckon I’ve had cassettes,
where I’ve probably replaced the chain five
times before I’ve needed to replace the cassette,
so I’ve had five new chains for each cassette, that’s
how long they can last if you take really good care of it. Yeah, this one is going
to get heated down below in the comments. Go easy. Now we’ve got Dmitrijs
Starikovs, who says, “Hi there, not sure if
this is tech, maintenance, “other issue.” You’ve come to the right
place, whatever it is! Right Dmitrijs; “autumn
riding comes with wet riding.” Awful isn’t it! “Lately when I’m riding in
the wet my wheel brake tracks, “rim brakes, get covered in oily gunk, “almost like the one you get on the chain. “Braking performance suffers, “not to mention the pain to get it off. “Am I doing something incorrectly? “Or are the roads that dirty? “It’s not my chain, as the
front wheel gets as dirty “as the rear one.” Right, Dmitrijs, perfectly normal, mate. What’s happening is a
combination of you braking, and the water, basically
it’s deteriorating your brake pads, that
oily gunk is actually your brake pads wearing out. Disc brake users, they’re
sat right now, going “ha ha ha, Dmitrijs! “Seriously mate, get
yourself some disc brakes.” But, don’t worry about it, okay, yeah, it does make a horrible mess, and braking performance is
probably affected slightly, I mean, at the end of the
day, you’re in the wet, so it’s never going to be
quite as good as it could be, but, don’t worry about it too much, because when you brake, your brake pads, more often than not they
have little grooves in them and those grooves move the
water away from the rim, and then they fall down, and that’s why if you look on your front
fork, you’ll quite often have bits of this
horrible like gunky mess, which you’re talking about
there, like black, gray grime, down the fork legs because it’s come out, and the pressure of the
wheel has pushed it back, and it’s run down there, same
thing happens on the rear. Now that stuff is really
easy to get off the frame and forks, unless you’ve
got a matte frame. Not quite as simple, if
you have got a matte frame by the way and you’ve got
that; WD40 bike cleaner, really good for that, tends
to get it off really well, but we were talking
about your rims, okay… What I use for it is
nice, hot soapy water. And get yourself a scouring pad, it depends where you’re
from, it could well be called Scotch Brite, I think
it’s called, and use that, now it’s quite abrasive,
its the sort of thing which you’re clean the
bottom of your cooking pots or pans if you burn a lot of food, which I’m quite experienced
at as well, anyway, you get that, and apply a
decent amount of pressure, but make sure, right, you
stay away from the actual side wall of your tire,
because it’s quite abrasive, like I said, and you
could well damage that. Likewise, if you’ve got black
rims, or any colored rims, that sort of thing, you want to try and stay away from that
too, so try and break it off into little bits perhaps, just apply a really small amount of pressure
and just work through it, because what happens is all that oily gunk is getting caught in
the very small grooves on your braking surfaces
normally, and what happens is it gets stuck in there,
and there’s one bit where it always gets stuck,
and that is just at the very top lip of the rim, just where
it meets onto the side wall of the tire, that tends
to get real messy as well, so with that just use a
sponge again, hot water, try and get it as hot as
possible ’cause that tends to shift that grime, now,
you don’t want it so hot you’re going to burn your
hands, in that case get a pair of marigolds, you know the
rubber gloves you would do the washing up with as well, so, yeah, when you’ve finished
with the scouring pad, when you’ve cleaned out your burnt pads you can just go straight off
and wash your bike with it. I’m only joking, but, that’s
the sort of thing you need, really, just to protect
your hands from it, cause hot water makes a big,
big difference with this. Importantly here, you’re
not doing anything wrong, it happens to everyone out
there who uses rim brakes, and when it starts to
wear away, your rim brakes you get through them
so quickly those pads, I remember my dad on his
commute, he used to get through in the winter, sometimes a pair every, probably every 10 days, with
V-brakes on his mountain bike that’s how quick they used to wear down, you know in traffic, stop,
start, stop, start, but yeah, not doing anything wrong, it just requires good old fashioned elbow-grease. Right, final one this week
comes in from Pianowcascade. I often wonder, and I’ve said it before, where do you lot get your names from? Right, anyway, Pianowcascade says, “will a down tube tension shifter work “with a Positron Shimano rear derailleur?” Right, we are stepping back in time now, about 37 years, I think,
Shimano Positron, I think from 1982, 1983, so, a
very basic rear derailleur I guess you could say,
so it’s not indexed, or anything like that. A down tube shifter, which you’ve said, down tube tension shifter,
with that, I’m not sure if you mean a friction
or an indexed one because they’re both under
tension at some point, but I’m pretty sure it’ll work absolutely fine with six, seven, eight
speed, something like that, well I reckon six and seven, definitely. How well it would work with
a 10-speed down tube shifter I don’t know, because
remember it does work on a parallelogram-style design,
and I don’t know how much movement it has to actually
be able to play around with, but it should work absolutely fine, this is the time, really
when I want a thorough ask-the-audience, will a
down tube tension shifter work with a Positron rear derailleur? I was only two years old when
that product was released, so I don’t have much experience, I have actually maintained
one, and those derailleurs back then were actually designed to work for a friction shifter but,
index shifters were introduced not that long after, and they
still worked fine with it, and on an old bike somewhere,
I think it’s at my mate Alice’s house, I’ve even got one of those Positron rear mechs on
there or something very, very similar, and it’s got
an indexed down tube system on there, I think it’s
got eight speed on there, so I reckon you’ll be okay
up to eight, anything more, (inhales sharply) well
yeah, we’re treading into murky waters ’cause
I’ve never tried it myself. Right, there we are, I hope
that answered that question, if not, someone else,
MrGrumpy53, MrGrumpy53 a regular commenter, you
will definitely be able to help that one out,
because you seem to know about a lot of this old stuff, too. Get involved in the comment
section, and like I said at the start, if you’ve
got a bike-related problem, let me know about it down
there in the comment section and I will do my utmost
best to try and solve it in a forthcoming episode.
Right, remember as well, like and share this video with
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73 thoughts on “Changing Road Bike Wheel Freehubs & Lubing Jockey Wheels | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech”

  1. Robert Williams says:


  2. AL Francis says:

    What is worth it to buy?

    Full carbon wheelset or carbon wheelset with aluminum brake surface?

    What are the adv and disadv of both?


  3. eugene tsen says:

    Gcn NEVER answer my questions😭😭

  4. jimiscott says:

    Someone forget to pay the lecky bill?

  5. Vercin Festin says:

    # askgcn
    Can i change my spring on freehub pawls with strong and hard spring?

  6. Austin Pyke says:

    I have an entry level giant contend 3 with Claris. If I want to upgrade to a carbon fork and tiagra/105 am I better off buying a whole new bike or upgrading those parts?

  7. Robert Van Hoy says:

    Forums are a mine field of information, just watch out for exploding douche bags.

  8. MRGRUMPY53 says:

    If you want your cassettes to last, measure your chain every few months. I use a chain checker to get a general feeling on chain wear, but use a quality steel ruler to determine when to replace. As Jon said, cleaning and lubing your chain often, will give you longer cassette and chainring life.

  9. Simon Irvine says:

    Edco Multi Cassette works with the Big 3.

  10. ActivSport Jelgava says:

    Positron derailleur has indexing built in derailleur, not shifter, so theoretically it should work. Problem with Positron is that they use proprietary(and expensive!) shifting cables that comes in various lenghts. It could work with any friction downtube shifter and standard shifting cable, you probably need some cable stopper on derailleur, but it could be done. I have seen very few bikes with Positron, but they are still out here. Regarding pulley wheels – best option is to replace pulley wheels with sealed bearing ones. If not, what you want is to remove ceramic or metal bushing, clean it and put a drop of oil. Using oil just as described in video could not get much oil where it needs to be. If you are doing it for the first time, I recommend doing one pulley wheel at a time(because most times they are different eg upper/lower) and check where the chain goes, so it doesn't rub against derailleur plate.

  11. evelasq1 says:

    How about changing the cassette, rear derailleur and one sti shifter to a 11 speed so I can make it into 33 speed bike??? I have a thirty speed bike.

  12. Ryanatboulder says:

    #AskGCNTech: Hey Jon! Love the series. I have a Motobecane Immortal Force carbon road bike with 10 speed Shimano Ultegra 6700 components (2×10) and FSA cranks with 34/50t. The frame is limited in its tire size though, maxing out at 700x25c and I would like to travel down some gravel roads without worrying about pinch flats up in the mountains. Therefore I would like to move the groupset to my 9 speed steel cyclocross commuter frame, because it can fit up to 700x38c tires. I would also like to add a wide range cassette (Sunrace 11-42/11-46 maybe) to get up some of these Colorado hills, but my derailleur hanger is a part of the frame and I don’t think I can add a Wolftooth Road/Goat link. Do I need to find a new long cage 10 speed derailleur to make it work or is there something I can add to allow the use of the Ultegra short cage? Is there anything I can check on the bottom bracket of the road bike before I disassemble it, to make sure it will thread on the cyclocross frame? I hardly use the 50t chainring, so is it okay to drop the 50t for a 46t? Also, the rear drop outs are horizontal on the cyclocross frame. Are there any foreseen issue’s that you can think of that I should address or be thinking about before I start this project. Thanks and Cheers from Colorado!

  13. Erik Ewald says:

    Positron used a solid inner wire for the cable, not stranded cable. This was because there was no spring in the derailleur to pull the mech back to the smaller cogs. The solid core wire both pushed and pulled to operate the system. The problem you'd run into with regular shifters would be the cable end would pop out of its seated position when trying to "push". A bodge or hack would involve cementing the cable end into the shifter.

    Positron was a terrible product and market failure. The rear cluster was fixed and the front chainrings "freewheeled" Al sorts of compatibility issues.

  14. Carbon suicide mtb says:

    As a mountain biker and a cat 2 road cyclist, I've always used a chain wear indicator, rear cassettes can last over 15 new chains, as long as you replace the chain before it's worn too much, it's a complete myth that one chain for one cassette, all it takes is a chain wear indicator to save yourself alot of money

  15. Mike Shelton says:

    The chain doesn't "stretch" but it does get longer because the pins inside the rollers, and the inside of the rollers, wear and allow "slop" which makes the chain measurably longer. When the chain gets too long, it will start to rapidly wear the cassette, and possibly chain rings.

    Like Jon says, keep your chain clean and lubed, and check it to make sure it's not too "stretched".

  16. Nick Tarry says:

    What's with the moody lighting, bit darker than normal and Jon's shadow is a bit distracting.

  17. Alan Taylor Farnes says:

    #askgcntech I know you've said many times that different front chainring ratios can be accomodated. I want to go 52-34 up front and you've said it will work if I'm careful. My question is will it work with a electronic groupset? Can I tell di2 to do that? Or will the computer not have that as an option? Thanks!

  18. Léopold Delouche-Vilpoux says:

    #AskGCNTech Hey John, my girlfriend has a city bike with a limited gear range. It is using a 14-28 6 speed Shimano freewheel, a single 42t chainring with a Shimano revoshift shifter and tourney TY300 rear derailleur. Any modifications I can make to increase the gear range? Are there any other freewheels available? I have read it is also possible to upgrade to 7 speed or should I go full freehub conversion ? Thanks

  19. Martyn Fairclough says:

    Jon . i have a new chain but dont have the old one to check the lenght against is it good to go out of the packet its a shimano 105. cheers martyn f

  20. Alan Taylor Farnes says:

    #askgcntech My indoor trainer has had an occasional knocking sound coming from the hub since I bought it–usually after freewheeling and resuming to pedal. Very rarely the cassette will fail to catch and I can pedal without engaging the hub–again after freewheeling and then resuming to pedal. Surely the pawls aren't catching. How do I fix it? What did I do wrong? Did I put the cassette on too tight? Did the trainer come with a bad hub?

  21. Keanan Connor says:

    You didn’t cover much

  22. Chris Ko says:

    You are absolutely right to say "the chain doesn't stretch, it wears." People use to think chains stretch, rendering them useless after X km. No, they wear, mostly because they are getting dirty, but not looked after. Chains in a chain box last almost forever. (Chains lengthen because of wear, not stretch.)

  23. Gary Haynes says:

    #askgcntech How do I make my bike go faster uphill, it goes like a rocket downhill but is really slow uphill??

  24. Chris Ko says:

    Not replacing your chain until you HAVE to replace the cassette as well will result in worn chainrings. The big chainring often is very expensive to replace.

  25. Chris Ko says:

    "… if you burn a lot of food… which I'm quite experienced at as well…" Had to click the like button immediately 🙂

  26. viostvcm says:

    #AskGCNtech is there any problem using Sora crankset 9 speed with 105 11 speed rear ??

  27. William Sambo says:

    Love that "Disc brake users", it describes exactly… well me! hahaha Love them

  28. Ken Blair says:

    Jon, Jon, Jon, are you not a millennial , or gen X & Y ? That's what they do, creative online names, to hide behind . Me, I'm 72 and don't give a flying crap. If the FBI or CIA wants to find me, they know where I live.

    In regards to the issue of chain and cassette replacement . When Shimano UG was in use, I would change the chain once a year, whether it needed it or not. Always wiped down the chain after riding and lube when needed. I rode with UG cassettes from about the late 80's , up until 2016, when I replaced those hub bodies with UG bodies. Those UG cassettes lasted all those years , yes I did reverse some of the more used cogs. Now with 10-12 speed cassettes, if you take care of the chain, replace as needed, those cassettes will last a long time. Now days , I measure the chain, before ditching . KB.

  29. Stephen Clark says:

    Could you not fit an 11 speed xdr cassette to work with shimano 11 speed?

  30. Richard Mijnheer says:

    Hi Jon, I want to buy a Shimano R9100-P power meter crankset without chainrings. Can I put R8000 Ultegra chainrings on it or do I have to but to more expensive Dura Ace ones #askgcntech

  31. Lyledagz says:

    #askgcntech please show us how to do shimano di2 on a vintage bike frame. Thank you

  32. Hardi Erstu says:

    When riding on gravel, it will take less than 2 minutes and that chain will be all dirty with sand again. And I think that new sand is more abrasive than the old one that you washed out. If the chain wears by sand, it's logical, that also the sand wears down to smoother and finer too, And by leaving that old worn out sand there, it will protect the chain from the new more abrasive sand.. Beside if sand is just silicone, then how it can be abrasive, while silicone oil is just a kind of lubricant? Claiming that sand is bad for your chain is kind of like racism, or something siliconism, or something.. harassment towards of sand.

  33. Jan Willem Kuilenburg says:

    Instead of replacing the whole cassette you can replace just the sprockets that show wear. On my cassette it is just 3 sprockets because I ride on the flats. Much cheaper and more sustainable.

  34. Lewis Colby says:

    Hey john, sublime show, I’m trying to set up q rings on my new build bike, was wondering if there is any tricks for chain sizing? It keeps coming off the front chainring after a few revs, is it too small/ large, it’s gold kmc 11 speed in homage to GCN, cheers if you can help #GCNTech

  35. pdw170 says:

    I could listen to John all day, any chance of video of all the stuff at Johns house? You could make it a 5 parter! 😃

  36. Emil Irming says:

    Hi Jon.
    I've treated myself with a new seat post. A carbon one that is. Before installing the new seat post, I'd like to know how to clean the seat tube from old gunk and grip paste.
    Cheers, Emil.

  37. Michael Ahles says:

    #askgcntech Can you tell us please if spending more on aftermarket or even standard Shimano vs Dura Ace cable and guidsets really make a dif? Thanks for the great info, Mike =

  38. Morten Reippuert Knudsen says:

    It was swiss Edco… their body accept both Campy and HG casettes

  39. valentin65 says:

    I still have the same XT-cassette on my mountain bike since 2000. And I didn't take care of it. Don't buy all that overpriced cleaning/lubricating stuff! For the price of 1 btl. of overpriced lube (100 ml) you get 1/2 cassette or 1 chain. Or 1 litre of good olive oil!

  40. glenstruan says:

    Everything you need to know about Bicycle Chains: A book of special insights for expert mechanics by Johan Bornman.
    This book explains in detail everything you need to know about the engineering of chains and the logic behind lubrication. Once you read this, you'll never use wax based lube again! Its on Amazon/Kindle.

  41. Pianowcascade 53 says:

    Sorry I did mean friction shifter

  42. Shaun Green says:

    If you want to be more eco-friendly with your pan scourers, ditch the plastic versions and go for the coconut husk type. Been using them for a while, once done with in the kitchen, great for the wheel rims!

  43. Matt Szrejter says:

    Looks like someone forgot to pay the electric bill. Is that a Mag-light you are using for the set lighting?

  44. CF O'Sullivan says:

    Saving money on the lighting again.

  45. slateization says:

    This is EXACTLY what I needed this week! Thanks guys!!

  46. Adel A. says:

    Marginal gains by reducing lights ? 😅

  47. Steffen Stengård Villadsen says:

    5:00 I will say that lube put to cartridge bearings could loosen the grease

  48. hermjen1 says:

    Great show as always, Jon. I recently purchased a gravel bike with SRAM Apex hydraulic brakes. Storage is a real concern so I have bike hooks attached to the overhead beams in my garage. Will hanging the bike upside down create any problems with the brakes levers or calipers?

  49. J B says:

    Friction shifters works fine with 10 speed cassettes. Just upgraded an 80s 531c bike by squeezing in modern 10 speed wheels and changing to a 50/34 crank. Shifts great although initially a hassle to get the smallest and largest cogs, just need to play with the limit screws and b screw
    Then I changed to a modern RD to squeeze in a 36t cassette, even better

    Sub 10kg, great bike

  50. steve c says:

    Jon. Need to correct one thing. For rotor q-rings you will need a front mech extender to clear chainring which also shifts the mech back slightly. Helps to get rings working correctly.

  51. Mykyta Jex says:

    Jon, a bit of a slip-up on the Positron question. Positron is indexed in the DERAILLEUR itself, unlike all modern indexing systems. On top of that, they utilise a very specific cable to both pull AND push the derailleur. The cable is basically a wire with nubbins welded on the ends. Since Positron relies on the stiffness of said wire "cable", it will not work without a full-length specific housing. Thus, it will NOT work with any downtube shifter, regardless of if it's indexed or friction. Last, Positron was low-end, so it only came in a 5 speed (rear) variant. The RD would have to be replaced (along with other things) to have anything but the OEM 5 speed gearing.

  52. Aaron Dellipiani says:

    #askgcntech how do you tell when jockey wheels need replacing and how easy is that to do. Thanks.

  53. cajun2577 says:

    Bent Crank shaft? So I thought the first time it happened it was a fluke but this is now the second Shimano Crankset that has bent. First was an Ultegra 6800 and now a 105 R8000. Does this happen often? What causes this? Love the show. #askgcntech

  54. Joshuavoice29 says:

    I have a 1989 Cannondale with down tube shifters and earlier this year I installed the new Shimano R7000 105 11spd groupset and it works just fine.

  55. Fabio Hering says:

    Good and old elbow grease!! Hahahaha
    Nice to hear that!!

  56. Phil Lentz says:


    Jon awesome show. Question is do you have to use ceramic specific lubricant for ceramic bearings? Or will a standard lube do just as well? Any risks to using standard lube over a costly brand specific? Thanks

  57. Jerico Manoguid says:

    Hi Jon! Always love the show very informative and I always download the videos to watch it after my duty as an operating room nurse. Anyways I'm a bike to work here in the Philippines and uses my bike for long rides around 120-150km twice a month and like any other roads in the world it wasn't smooth and perfect after all. I have a 1991 Vintage KHS Montana Comp but repainted to black and yellow coz the blue and pink are not my style. I converted it to a Hybrid bike with a Controltech 700c paired with GP4000S2 25mm tires. I want to convert it to a proper road bike with Shimano 105 R7000 but I have 3 issues that my local bike mechanic told me. 1st My frame can't accommodate the chainring coz I want a 52-36 and my current one is a 48-38-28 Shimano Biopace but my 28t broke. 2nd issue was that the mount for caliper for my frame was way too high to reach the braking line of my wheelset but I'm using a vintage single pivot caliper and I suggested if I can put an adapter for disc mount to upgrade my 105 to disc brake version for more braking power coz I'm a 90kg man and he told me that it will be impossible because my frame is designed for caliper brake and there will be a lot of stress on the left side of the frame and fork. 3rd issue was that if I'm gonna put the FD of a 105 it will need a few more mm to change my chainring because my frame was built for a 3 chainring. Is there any possibility that I can convert it to a proper road bike or should I just convert it to a gravel bike or worst buy a new frame. If so how and what will be the best way to do it. Thanks and more power to the show!

  58. Twp Cew says:

    #askgcntech Hello Jonnyboy! I’ve got a Cannondale CAAD Optimo disc. It obv got disc brakes, but with QR axles.. Now that im looking for a pair of better disc brake wheels they all come built for trough axles. Is there a way to get a nice set that can fit QR for now, and then ”rebuild” then for trough axles when I get a higher end disc bike?

  59. guyd4067 says:

    Thank you Mr C, chains wear, chain rings wear, cassettes wear.

  60. Joshua Piccari says:

    I've got Chris King R45 hubs and would like to swap out the bearings for some nice NTN bearings (preferably not angular contact). What size bearings would I need and is it possible or has Chris King locked me into their overpriced bearings?

  61. Jolly Giant says:

    My front chain ring is on 10,000 miles, rear cassette and chain is on 6,000 miles! I clean the drivetrain with de-greaser and get off every 4th ride all he old chain lube and the blow dry with an air line. I add new chain lube 4 times before riding on the road again with a 4 or 5 hour gap between applications. I work it in by going up and down though the gears whilst it on the work stand. Then chain is fairly worn now but not quite at 0.1, I'm planning on renewing the whole lot in the new year, so I'll see if I can eek it out until then.

  62. Mathieu Bourquin says:

    #AskGCNTech Hi Jon, love the show! I read a lot about it and oppinions divert, so I wanted your oppinion on that matter. What about that condensation water (inside and outside of the frame) when you bring your bike inside in the winter months? Is this something to be concerned about or not?
    I appreciate your answer.

  63. Hugo Carlos says:

    #askgcntech my local bike shop recommend to use a new chain until half-life, then put a new chain, uses until half-life, go back to first chain, uses til it end, then uses the second to the end. After that, repeat the process with a new pair of chains and new cassete. Does it make any sense?

  64. Stephen Williams says:

    4 chains to 1 cassette for me

  65. DeStraatz says:

    John, what has always baffled me is why do 6800 and most modern shimano brake shoes have that screw on the inside of the "fin" thing. I can't see if it does any adjustment or properties in that regard apart from rubbing on the rim when your pads get too worn. pls help. #AskGCNTech

  66. B 16 says:


    The link below..will take you to a brand new product of Shimano 105 Rd-5701 selling at a price of 1200 BDT= approx 15 USD. How come this is so cheap? Is there…any copy version of shimano product in the market?🤔

  67. dutypaidrock says:

    #askgcntech Hi Jon. I've recently had to change the cassette body from a Campy one to a Shimano one on a brand new rear wheel (don't ask…) It fixes to the axle with an end cap on the drive side, and tightened down by inserting two 5mm allen wrenches either side of the wheel (rather than the 'nut' system). However, I can't tighten the cassette body down without it preventing the freehub spinning freely and naturally to a stop. Even finger tight causes a 'binding' and the wheel to stop spinning unnaturally fast. I back the end cap off to the point where it spins freely, but then it's so loose the cassette body has play in and out-board of the wheel. It's almost like something is fouling on something else, preventing the bearing from spinning freely. I've received new spacers and end cap from the manufacturer twice, but the issue persists. Any ideas?!

  68. popassassin81 says:

    #AskGCNTech Hi there, I have a Shimano 105 group set (last version before the latest change) and there is a black plastic guide on the inside of the front derailleur. The chain seems to constantly rub this when in the small ring at the front and low gear at the back. It has rubbed away the plastic but doesn’t seem to be damaging the chain. Is this normal for the 105 front derailleur? Ta!

  69. Rafwit says:

    Easier for him would be just to buy a Sram xd cassette if his derailleur can work with a 36t as this is the smallest you can go with an xd cassette, otherwise indeed changing the hub….

  70. Mark Reams says:

    I just changed over to Absolute Black oval chain rings. I find that they shift as well if not better than the original Shimano chain rings.

  71. Mark Reams says:

    I agree. Chains don’t stretch! I use the grunge brush from finish line to clean the chain along with a degreaser. Very effective and inexpensive. What’s the best chain lube? The one you use every day! I check chain wear with the Park tool for that purpose and change the chain as soon as the chain is worn. I usually get more than 10,000 miles out of a cassette! I don’t wait for the chain to skip before replacing the cassette. I like to start the new year with a fresh cassette and chain as well as new cables. Fresh bar tape is nice as well!

  72. tomglista says:

    Hello Jon. Great show. I'm always trying to save a little money where I can. I have 2 road bikes with Shimano 10 speed groupsets Dura Ace and 105. Is a 9-speed or 11-speed chainring compatible with my 10-speed groupsets?

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