Datsun 240Z L28 Stroker – Nissan L20ET optical distributor reassemble
Datsun 240Z L28 Stroker – Nissan L20ET optical distributor reassemble


Hey guys! My distributor housings all
nice and cleaned up all my other parts that I had ordered for my distributor
turned up and about half the time the suppliers thought they were going to. So
in this episode I’m going to crack on I’m putting this back together. [music] Hey guys
Aaron from Built On Purpose. If your subscribed you would be familiar with my
build here. I’m currently rebuilding an optical distributor to stick on my L 28
stroker motor. I’m just getting to the pointy end of building it. I hadn’t
planned on actually building it I was thinking that my parts that I was
getting from overseas we’re going to take a lot longer than they did to get
here but they took about half the time the suppliers recommended which I don’t
know whether they’re doing that under-promise and over-deliver I don’t
know. But I’m surprised everything’s here. I’ll link up all the products that I
used in this distributor in the description if you can to get your own
bits and pieces. For those that aren’t subscribed I recommend just jumping over
to the previous video just to get up to speed where we’re at. Since last video
apart from all the bits and pieces turning up I had my housing which was
originally black powder-coated black and falling apart I took that up to
Bundaberg Sandblasters and he used plastic plastic bead material to take
off the powder coating it was quite dark in some spots where some moisture must
have got underneath to the powder coating which is probably the reason why
the powder coating was coming off in the first place so he scrubbed it with water
and medium device and it came up a treat so I’m really chuffed with that that’s
the the raw appearance that I wanted to look at so I’ve already dusted this out
with compressed air just to blow out all the threads and bits and pieces so
that’s ready to assemble and the other thing I got partway through was just
popping off the old bearing off the shaft to get the new one on. I didn’t use a
bearing press I I did the dodgy and just use the hammer balancer removal tool
just to pop it off. The next thing will be to put the new bearing on which I’ll
probably do just in a similar dodgy fashion. The one thing I do want to
achieve is I want to put this all back together but I want to mock wire it in
and test it with the Megasquirt. I’m still a bit skeptical that the
crank angle sensor is actually going to work. So first part is assemble this
distributor second part will be wire it in and then third part will
give it a simulated spin to see if it actually registers properly [music] Before I continue with the assembly this
distributor I wanted to show you this is just the trigger disc that I’m using
it’s a 12-1 from DIYAutoTune. But what it allows to be done is with the
old trigger wheel which had 360-degree slots on the outside plus a reference
for six on the inside. That’s unnecessary in the terms of ECU world. There’s
nothing that you don’t need to know every single degree of the engine you
can get away with a lot smaller numbers and still have the same accuracy and so
that’s why I’ve gone with the twelve minus one now you’ll notice that there’s
actually more than twelve slots that’s because this is in the distributor which
spins half as fast as the crankshaft so you could have twice as many but
essentially you got a missing spot here in here which will represent passing of
top ten Center so this trigger disk also has a reference plane to the cylinder
one when it is at top dead center of the ignition cycle so this can be used for
on your mega squared twos and threes or any other computer to help identify for
us it’s for sequential ejection and cool all over plug so I’ve gone with this
because I can’t see the point of having the original disk in plus my original
disc is pretty junked so I’ve got the distributor back
together um I think it looks pretty good what I’m gonna do now is worried in the
old distributor was an L 24 distributor which I had hardwired in which I cut yet
it was running a pet Ronix unit and it was locked I do have a video and had a
local distributor Ohio I lock this one in particular anyway so I’ll throw the
card up we’d have a look at yeah so it should be now minor tweaks to this is
this was just a log that went through a switch they went to the pin 29 the
trigger on the mega squirt so not much has changed the life still goes to live
still goes to the live I just gotta know how to ground because this gives off TC
has two outputs I’m only using one but because it’s LEDs it’s essentially
powered lights and that just has an output trigger so I need to ground this
unit here which I’ll do somewhere probably 200 volt near my ignition coil
but essentially the triggers still the same and the live still so I’ve got my
bits and pieces ready to roll I’m just using a three prong connector I’m not
going to use the the fourth wire just at this stage which would be the signal for
the reference for cylinder one top dead center a rule of thumb I fire is if it’s
an important connection it should be soldered so I’m just heating up the
soldering want to put a few dabs of solder on on this because what could be
more important to you computer than telling it where the engine crank is at the end of the theme outside and I’m
gonna make sure I get the right one in the rods but before I give this a spin
Dewey’s make some changes on my board what I do have to do if you’ve got a
mega squared in you’re converting from a VR type input to an illumination one is
you have to make some modifications to your board the VR type input crosses a
zero volt threshold which that’s easy for the computer to identify but with
the illumination it doesn’t or it doesn’t go to zero it’s it forms a
square wave but it set up a voltage and with this particular sensor we have two
kinds of sensors ones we’ll produce up to a 12 volt signal and
the other that will produce up to a 5 volt signal I’ve measured this I know
this is the peak is 3 volts I think 3 point 3 so our in in the 5 volt signal
range so that that changes just one resistor after putting on that board so
before I can see if this actually works I need to go tweak my board right yeah
so I’m not too modifying the board I’ve got to do a few things they’re fairly
simple though basically this board is configured for VR I basically just got
to swap the common things over which are just basically going from the inputs
from the VR to the inputs to the optical and same with the output there if you
can see that it’s pretty simple I’ll just the jumper that’s here I’ll just
dissolve that and swap that over this one I’ll just de solder and change its
direction I’ve also got to provide some power to the T select I’m working with
the DIY Auto Tune guide for this the trigger disco amusing I’ve got to fit a
pull-up resistor into the wiring somewhere I can do that either on the
car or on the board and what I’m going to do is grab some power run it through
a 1k resistor and hook it up to the tach the tacks select as the DIY oto-chan
guide says and we’ll see how that goes so it’s getting rather late in the night
and the week I’ve been doing this err in the evenings of the early mornings all
week with without luck I’ve changed my trigger disc settings in
mega squirt in the Trina studio for the mega squirt and I’ve got the the
distributor attached but I still can’t get seem to get any rpm signal out of
the thing so very frustrating to say the least so I’m just doing some shakes see if I’m getting we’ll teach and they come in three hmm yeah well I’m getting the voltage is
getting to pin 24 maybe I just not spinning it fast enough by hand we get
the drill it was very disappointing so I can see at least I’m getting a
signal from this distributor through to pin 24 well at least I think it’s
getting to pin 24 on the mega squirt I probably should check that but very
frustrating it’s been all week on this doing little bits and pieces and it’s
just not working mmm right I think I’d have to call it stumps for this episode
I’m not giving up on this distributor I’ll come back to it and keep
troubleshooting it anyway thank you for watching if you got any
thoughts on what the problem would be leave a comment like the video as always
for me for the first time subscribe and have a look around at the website and I
will catch you in the next video thanks guys

1 thought on “Datsun 240Z L28 Stroker – Nissan L20ET optical distributor reassemble”

  1. Aaron Neubauer - Built On Purpose says:

    Don't you hate it when things don't go to plan! I think the Crank Angle Sensor is the culprit but I will find out in due course.

    If you are new the to channel, check out the previous video for context here: https://youtu.be/upb6DdsfdIg

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