DIY: Replace Wheel Bearing on BMW E39 5-Series
DIY: Replace Wheel Bearing on BMW E39 5-Series

Welcome back to the 6th Gear Garage In this video, We’ll show you that it’s
easier than you might think to change the rear wheel bearing on this E39 5-Series Special thanks goes out to Theis Motorsport. Check them out for all your Genuine BMW parts. The parts you’ll need form BMW are:
Wheel Bearing 33411095652 Axle Nut 33411133785 Four E14 bolts 33321093661 M10X1X31-10.9 The only special tools you’l need are a
2-jaw ball joint and 3-jaw bearing puller, which you can borrow from most auto parts
stores if you don’t want to buy them. We’re actually going to use an adjustable
one that can be configured to pull with 3 jaws, as shown here, or take 2 of the jaws
off and put one on the extra mounting point to create a 2-jaw puller. If you don’t already own an E14 Torx socket,
pick one up. Let’s Get started! First you need to un-stake the axle nut using
a small chisel. It’s staked on both sides to keep it from
coming loose while driving. Next loosen the 36mm 12 point axle nut with
a long breaker bar OR a beefy Impact wrench, if you have an air compressor. My old impact didn’t cut it. We left the wheel on without the canter cap
to do those steps, rather than holding the brake. The weight of the car and wheel on the ground
is an easy way to keep the hub from turning while loosening the axle nut. Now set the E-brake and loosen the 6mm Hex
bolt holding on the rotor. Unbolt the 16mm bolts on the back of the caliper
and then support it out out of the way, to avoid stress on the brake line. This is a great time to replace your rear
pads or rotors, if needed. Be sure you released the emergency brake from
the earlier step, and give the rotor some taps with a rubber mallet – not a hammer-
to help break it loose from the hub. We’re in Ohio, so of course it’s pretty
rusty. We tapped on the front, then the back, and
kept repeating until it was free. With the rotor removed, you can see the emergency
brake, which is setup similar to a drum brake. We’re not going to mess with any of that. We’re using the 3-jaw puller on the hub
and tightening it, which would pull the hub outward, if it were unbolted. Instead, this will push the axle inward. When the axle moves inward, you’ll have
a little more room to loosen the four E14 bolts which hold the bearing from the back. A little PB Blaster on the exposed threads
will help them come out easier. Along with extensions, You’ll need to use
a universal joint or wobble extension to reach them. Removing the E14 bolts takes some time because
they’re in a tight area, sometimes having to add on extensions to work through the control
arm. With the last of the 4 bolts removed, its
time to put the puller back on and pull the hub. With the hub and bearing removed as one unit,
we’re now using the 2 jaw puller setup with a 36mm socket to push the hub from the old
bearing. Once separated, you’ll end up with this. The Inner race has stayed with the hub. This is normal and instead of replacing the
hub for about a hundred bucks, you can pull the inner race off using the puller. First, we’re using a dremel to cut grooves
into the race for our puller to grab. Being careful not to cut through the race
and damage the hub, we cut 3 grooves. One of our grooves was a little too big, which
weakened the hub, causing a piece to break off when using the puller. So we reconfigured our puller to a 2-jaw setup
and carefully added another groove, opposite of one of the good existing grooves. Now with our 2 jaw puller, and the 36mm axle
nut socket, we’re ready to remove the bearing race. It did take a couple of tries to get the grooves
to match the profile of the puller’s jaws. You could also use a bearing separator on
this step to possibly grip the race better, but we didn’t have one and it would have
been one more tool to rent or buy. Don’t expect this step to go quickly. Use a little PB Blaster to help lube the surface. It will be slow at first, but the more it
moves, the easier it gets. We’re applying a thin layer of antisieze
to the hub before installing the new bearing. Using the old race on top of the new bearing,
so that the new bearing isn’t damaged, we’re giving it some taps with a hammer to get it
started. Then using the 3 jaw puller, we put a crescent
wrench on top of the old bearing and slowly pressed the new bearing assembly on. Next we hand pressed the hub just a little
onto the axle splines, being sure they’re lined up and applied red locktite on the E14
bolts and threads they were going into. Here we have the E14 bolts installed from
the rear, but no need to tighten them all the way yet. Be sure the splines are clean. A little lube will always help. Now, we pushed the axle from behind to move
it outward enough to thread the 36mm nut on by hand. That will also help pull it through. We left the axle pushed in when starting on the
E14 bolts to give us a little more room for the socket. Now we’re ready to tighten the axle nut. We’ll use a torque wrench once the car is
back on the ground to get it to the final torque specs. Before putting the rotor back on, it’s a
good idea to put some anti-sieze on the hub to make removal of the rotor easier in the
future. We Re-installed the rotor, 6mm hex screw,
and caliper and Torqued the 16mm bolts to 48 ft pounds
(65 Nm/48 ft lb) Then put the wheel on and the car on the ground. With the tire chocked and parking brake applied,
The axle nut should be torqued to 221 ft lbs. (300 nm) Pull the wheel back off to stake the nut,
as it was when you started, and you’re done! If you have any tips to make this job easier,
we’d love to hear your ideas in the comments. Thanks for watching!

6 thoughts on “DIY: Replace Wheel Bearing on BMW E39 5-Series”

  1. Brandon Bachman says:

    Really liked your video very informative hope to see more of your videos like this one

  2. akinshok says:

    how about the e14 torque?

  3. Mauricio Tijerina says:

    All tht for a wheel bearing your kidding me

  4. Wake up People says:

    Thank you sir for this video!

  5. Young 23 says:

    Haven’t been able to obtain any of those tools from auto part stores. Any other suggestions?

  6. Alfonso Alvarez says:

    Perfect explanation for a DIY with easy to have tools. Thanks.

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