Hi, I’m Jay from Real Street Performance. Today, we’re going to talk about piston pins. So the piston pins are kind of an unsung hero in your engine. They’re not exotic to look at. They’re not exciting to talk about. You don’t tell somebody that you bought pistons and rods and pins. You just tell them that you have upgraded pistons and rods. The pins are very important. If you’re using a turbocharger or nitrous or supercharger. And you’re using the standard pin that came delivered with the piston, there’s a good chance that you’re going to overwhelm that pin. The pin was only designed for so much stress. And the way that they increase its durability is with an increased wall thickness or a material change. And that will allow the piston pin to deal with the stress and load of the forced induction or nitrous. better than a standard pin. When the pin breaks, if you use a standard pin and it breaks it is a catastrophic failure. Everything that was your engine goes in the garbage. And you have to start over again because when it breaks the small end of the rod is now free to roam. It knocks a hole in the cylinder wall. Kind of just a bunch of stuff swinging around. Just turns into a real ugly situation. So in the realm of upgrading your piston pins, it’s not a very large expense. When someone buys a 4 cylinder set of pistons from Real Street, and they want to do an upgraded pin, there’s normally just a $100 step charge to get them into an upgraded pin. In the realm of what thickness pin you should have, the 200s or 210s are enough for the general population. If you’re doing anything really hardcore, you can step into the 250. They even make a 300. There’s also some coatings available that will allow the pin to not gal the piston. Keep in mind that the pin is flexing, but the piston is also flexing. You know when the piston changes direction, when it goes from bottom dead center on its way up, or top dead center on its way back down. You know there’s 4,000 g’s of force available as that piston is kind of yoked in the opposite direction. So the parts are going to have some deflection. And you can see some of that deflection in a harder run engine in the pin boss as the piston flexes and the pin flexes. But again having an upgraded pin can avoid a catastrophic failure at a very, very affordable cost. So it’s really good insurance guys. So in closing again it’s not a very exciting part to talk about, but it’s a very affordable insurance policy for your forced inducted engine. The running clearance won’t change. So if you’re going to target around a thou for piston to pin clearance, it doesn’t change with a thicker pin. You do pick up a little bit of weight as you go to a thicker pin. So you know there’s a 15 or 18 gram step when you go from 200 to 250. Now that mass if you’re overly concerned about that mass, if you’re going to let that kind of drag the decision down, keep in mind that the small amount of weight that you’re gaining in the piston pin area is buying a tremendous amount of durability for the engine. If you can look around and see some failures that happen when pins break, it becomes very obvious that it is money well spent to buy the upgraded pin for the longevity of the engine. Thanks, and have a good week.