BAM! Mr. Tarrou Well, you normally see me doing math videos and that is certainly my specialty but if all goes well with this installation, I’m putting front wheel bearings on my 2004 G35 Coupe and I couldn’t find any good instructional videos on the internet. Actually, I couldn’t find anything specific to my car So, I’m going to work on one side, if it goes well I’m going to be showing you, um, step-by-step how to work on the other side of my car Again – reinstalling or replacing front wheel bearings on a 2004 G35 Coupe If you see the rest of this video, you know the left side went we’ll get to the right side… (fades out) Okay, well, I’m working more on the video so you know the left side didn’t go too bad. The hardest part was actually getting the hub off the car So, uhh I’m going to remember that I’m a math teacher, not a mechanic. So I’m just showing you what I’m doing, hopefully it works but uhh, you know…do this project at your own risk. Okay, the first thing you wanna do – and I’ll move the camera and show you these individual bolts – is there is a little..umm..I believe a 12 mm bolt I’ll check this before I get to the next scene that we’re going to release to do..um..or to take out to release the brake line Now, I have steel braided lines, this might be a little bit different from your setup. The next thing you’re gonna wanna do is break loose the two 22 mm bolts that are holding on the caliper uh, I have Brembo brakes, I’m not sure what the size bolt is for standard brakes but the replacement of the front wheel bearing hub I believe is exactly the same. Okay, now here is the mounting point for the brake line Your brake setup with standard lines will have two bolts here but either way, they’re 12 mm Just back those out and put the bolts back where they belong, that way we don’t lose them later These Brembo Calipers – the brake pads are held on by pins so I’m not going to actually have to take my brake pads out You will, I’m sure, with standard brakes – and lemme just stop the video and show you the bolts behind the caliper if I can get to ’em Okay, here’s your two – one up there – 22 mm bolts you’re going to have to break out. Those are going to be tight. Factory torque specs are around 110 ft lb and then back here you see the back of the front wheel assembly, the front hub wheel bearing hub This is a plastic cap, you’ve got a ABS sensor in here so make sure you’re very careful with that or… I didn’t have to take mine off for the other side but uhh…you do what you feel is the safest, but there is four bolts There’s one here Here and then two up at the top The bottom one here next to the lower control arm is a little bit tough to get to, It’s also tough for me to get on the camera Uh, those have a torque spec of…what was it between?…well, I don’t want to say it wrong. I’ll just show you later on in the video. Um, *clears throat* what I’m going to do now is get a 22 mm socket on there and I’ll come back and show you how I hold the wrench to try and break these loose so it’s going to be pretty tough… Well, on the left side I’m going to need a breaker bar to get these caliper bolts loose umm Right side I am. So, I’ve slipped a pipe over my half-inch socket – or maybe you have a proper breaker bar – and I’ve found the easiest way is to stay on the front of the car, get that 22 mm socket around there, and make sure it’s in a loose position and break it loose. I’m pushing down towards the ground Um, turn this to the left. I’m on the right side of the car. *loud clunk* Okay, well, I’ve got it loose. I don’t think you need to see me turn a wrench. So I’ll be back with the next step. We’re also gonna hang this caliper off the suspension with some wire, zip ties, or whatever you have – to not pull on the brake line Okay, this is definitely not the example of the best tool for the job but this how I’ve always opened up my pads There are proper pad spreaders and really..I should be using those I’ve just always used a big wrench and used a very, very thick towel to pad the brake pa…uh the caliper and then I’m gonna put this over here and just pull a little .. put a .. squeeze a little bit Just enough to pull the pads away from the disc so I can slide this caliper off the rotor Which actually is already unbolted from this port, but I can’t get it off because the pads are pressing against the disc So, maybe get a proper tool – spread those pads, pull your caliper off If you have standard brake setup you’re going to have to remove your pads. Um, again, I don’t have to. Okay, so here again is the back of the assembly I’m trying to hold my camera backwards here. This bolt down here near the bottom near the control arm is going to be a little bit tough to get out but as you move the wheel left and right you will be able to get that bolt past your lower control arm and you can get the socket on as well but it’s a little bit tough. and uh just do the best you can to get to these bolts and get ’em loosened. They also will be extremely tight and you may need a breaker bar Now, again, your anti-lock break sensor is here but once you get these bolts loosened you won’t have to worry about breaking that sensor as you remove the hub Now, I had trouble getting the hub off so you want to leave these bolts back here loose You know, back them off of the aluminum mounting point here and then use a punch and hammer and just rotate around these four bolts and just keep hammering ’em as you push this assembly out of your suspension. Umm…you know this is all aluminum here…the suspension piece is, so it’s going to be better to hit these bolts from behind and push out this front wheel bearing assembly So this is what a punch is going to look like. You’ll put this at the center of the bolt and again, hammer on the back. Now, nowadays, you know we have to go buy these. My uhh friend that’s helping me do this, who uhh used to go to school when we actually cared about shop and mechanics, actually made this by hand in High School ..but no, now we just think everyone’s gonna go to college and not pick up a trait and probably make more money than I am. Alright, well, this will be easier once I get back in the and turn the wheel to the right some more but you can get to three of these bolts with the wheel turned to the right or if you’re on the left side of the car – turned to the left. Uh, my friend Rick here has got a breaker bar on our half-inch drive with a 17 inch socket and we’ll come back and show you the third bolt and of course, you don’t need to see us turn wrenches here so um…be back with the last bolt in a second! Okay, so we have all four bolts backed out. This right side was a little bit easier than the other. Found out that if I did hold the steering wheel hard right, uhh.. We could get to all four of the bolts in that lower control arm. Was not a problem like the left side. umm..we got the punch, it’s in the center of the bolt. We’re going to just start tapping this punch around the back of these bolts . Just keep going around and around and around. cuz there’s a, you know, some…well…we gotta slide the wheel assembly out of our suspension. and umm…here we go! Okay, so, we can see my calipers hanging from the wire. We have the bolts out and we’re just gonna simply slide out this hub. The..um..the dust plate is gonna come with it. …hopefully… *chuckle* heh, well, it’s loose. We were all excited that it was loose. um, this is going to slide out. We will make sure that the orientation of the dust plate stays the same. Oh, it’s not coming out because we forget a bolt! See what happens when you start the camera? You get bloopers. There we go, now lets try it. There you go, perfect! and we’re going to put that down at the same orientation Someone said that you have to be careful that you put the new one on in a certain way Cuz supposedly these bolts aren’t completely symmetric Umm they look pretty darn close to me. So either I got lucky on the left side or you do have to be careful That uh..there is only one way to put your bearing on. Now you can see the um, this little black sensor here. Don’t touch it. I mean I don’t know if you can touch it but I’m not going to. That is your anti-lock brake sensor. Uh, we’re going to run..hopefully this is okay, just a little super fine cleaning here on the edge of this opening To remove some of the resid…the dust, not the dust, the uh..rust from the wheel bearing that we took out. and we’ll placing the new one in just, momentarily! Okay, if you care to see. Here’s the difference between the new AND old. The right side was replaced probably 40, 000 miles ago. Due to a clicking sound under warranty. and uh..that came off quite a bit easier. So lets get this thing back on. Okay, well, maybe I could get some comments saying what I could’ve or should’ve done but um, someone said replace these bolts because they’re cheap. The service guy, when I ordered my part, said there’s no need to replace them. I don’t see any blue on here, but we’re gonna go ahead and use some, just a drop of blue threadlock just to make sure these bolts don’t come out. and um, you know, I’m sure I’ll be the one replacing these front wheel bearings again in another 90, 000 miles So I guess if I, uh, made a mistake I’ll be cursing myself then in another nine years. So uh, here we go! Well here you go. I said that those wholes we’re not completely symmetric. That they looked very, very close. I went ahead and put the dust shield on the front assembly and you can see in this position, the wholes do NOT line up If we rotate the bearing 180° Viola! Now of course you’ll figure this all out quickly as you put on this front assembly, but save yourself from trying to put a few bolts in and having to take everything back out and put it on correctly. Also, and make sure that your dust shield is getting put on your front suspension correctly because apparently if you put it on backwards, it will rub and you will have a nasty noise! Alright, here’s the proper orientation of the dust shield and there’s a ridge right here. That ridge goes in towards the inside of the car, not the outside because of course you can kinda turn this around, but that is the correct orientation with this ridge going towards the inside of the car, there’s a bump there. Alright! Okay, so again, we’re keeping the suspension to the right. Basically the same axis, to torque these tight, which was 58 to 72 ft lb or at least that’s what I found on the internet. Torque those four bolts holding the front hub on and again the two bolts that hold the calipers on. Those need to be torqued at to about 111 to 112 ft lb So we’re just going to reassemble this and we’ll… we’ll be, we’ll uhh..be done. Well, here we go, It’s all back together again. We’ll be doing the test drive soon to make sure that it’s all good. uhh…sorry I don’t have the supplies to clean everything up and make it all shiny like I really kinda want it to. Unfortunately, I discovered that my bumps stopped so my struts are *chuckles* uhh flopping around on the strut itself. So I guess that will be the next project So, I’m Mr. Tarrou, BAM!! go fix that car.