Green Stuff Rollers and Base Making
Green Stuff Rollers and Base Making


Greetings. I am Herbert Erpaderp and today
I am going to have a look at these strange plastic cylinders! These are, in fact, textured rolling pins
from Green Stuff World. The idea behind these is very simple. You use the rollers to roll
green stuff, or I suppose any other putty or clay and it will imprint a texture on the
rolled surface. There are quite a few textures to choose from
with these rollers. I got three. Factory Ground, which as the name implies is intended to represent
metal flooring and grates and things like that in a factory, or perhaps some kind of
space ship or whatever you would like to imagine. Bricks which, quite obviously represents bricks,
though to be honest when I think bricks I think uniform sizes, I would call this stones.
Like an old stone floor or wall maybe. Either way, I think it’s a useful pattern. And Frozen. This one is supposed to represent
a frozen, icy surface that has been cracked and broken. I think this one could also be
used for dried and cracked mud as well as ice. Just looking at the rollers themselves isn’t
particularly useful. What we need to see is the results of the rollers rolling…There’s
obviously some kind of “They see me rollin’” joke here… I got nothing. I spread some green stuff on a piece of plastic.
I make sure the green stuff is wet so that the roller won’t stick to it and then I
get rolling with the frozen roller. You can see it does stick a bit at the end, more water
should fix that. The result isn’t too bad, it looks like
a cracked ice or mud surface. You can see yellow chunks of improperly mixed green stuff.
These are hard chunks because in my haste I didn’t cut the hardened middle portion
out of the green stuff ribbon. Remove that and your green stuff with be nice
and lump free. After doing this I spread out some more green
stuff on the plastic, again covering it with water. I then try the bricks roller. I think
the trick to this is going slowly and carefully. You can see the pattern has a slight curve,
because I accidentally turned the roller as I was using it. Try to avoid doing that. I think the pattern looks really good. I like
it better than the result from the frozen roller. The recesses between the bricks are
quite deep, which might be a bit exaggerated for some, but I think it looks fine.
The only problem I have with it is there are slight lines across the top of the bricks.
That could probably be taken care of by running a wet finger over the top of the bricks before
the green stuff sets. None of the green stuff stuck to the roller,
which is quite nice. This means there is no need to scrape the green stuff out of all
the cracks and recesses. This is all well and good, but how do we make
bases with these? Well… that’s a silly question. It should be obvious. I am going to demonstrate it anyway. I decided that the bases I made for my Warmachine
Cryx a few months ago were a bit too busy looking, so I picked up these really sensible
translucent purple bases made by wyrd games. They’re intended for Malifaux, but I don’t
see a problem using them for Warmachine. They’re the same sizes. the back of the packages were moderately amusing. The bases by themselves do look pretty good,
though they are slotted bases and I don’t want the green stuff to be squeezed through
the slot, so I cut out some label stickers to size and stuck them over the slot. They
won’t stick properly to the plastic, but they’ll work well enough for this purpose. I take a blob of green stuff and spread it
out on the base. I try to get the green stuff to spread out evenly up to the edges of the
lipped base. I also try to get the surface as flat as possible. I made sure to use plenty
of water to avoid sticking. I then take the factory ground roller and
firmly roll it across the green stuff. You can see it hasn’t turned out absolutely
perfect. I think I used slightly too much green stuff. It’s hard to know the exact
right amount to use. The choices here are to smooth out the details
and roll again, or to fix the edges. I chose to fix the edges. I start by taking a knife, dipped in water
and carefully cut away the excess green stuff. Make sure you don’t cut lines into the base. Then if you feel the need you can use scuplting
tools to repair areas you’ve smooshed up, or even add extra details. You can also use
your fingers to smooth out edges. It doesn’t look perfect, but I do think
it looks pretty good. It looks almost hand sculpted. The surface isn’t exactly flat,
The result might be better if you do flatten out the surface before using the rollers.
Either way, I am pretty happy with this. Time to paint. Because I used translucent bases and I wanted
them to stay that way I had to mask them so they aren’t obscured by paint. I used humbrol
maskol for this, I was very careful to try to avoid getting the masking fluid on the
green areas. You could use another brand of liquid mask or if you want to go to the effort
you could try using tape. Though that does sound like the hard way to me. I left the maskol to properly set and then
prime the bases using vallejo black surface primer Next I sprayed a base coat of Model colour
Black grey. Then I added a light over spray of model colour
london grey, just to add a little variation in the grey. I then drybrushed london grey fairly roughly
around the edges of all the gaps. I used this same colour as the previous step because I
figured it would stand out a little more than the over spray without being too contrasting.
I wanted it to be fairly subtle, rather than stand out a lot. Next I highlighted the grey further with model
air light grey. I used a fine brush to apply it to the bolts and along all the edges of
the panels. I try to keep these lines neat and straight. But they don’t have to be
perfect. Two of the bases I’ve made have a kind of
high vis warning stripe thing. I don’t know what you would call that. Anyway. I painted
it yellow. Firstly with Model colour golden yellow. I did this fairly roughly because
I figured I would put a wash in the dark areas and that would help make it look neater later.
That said, I did try to be neat. I wasn’t entirely satisfied with how this
yellow looked. So I added a quick layer of model air medium yellow. This paint is so
thin it would have taken a lot of coats to get it to show over the grey, but with the
golden yellow underneath it takes far less to get a good bright colour. You can see how much more vibrant the yellow
looks with the medium yellow. To add a little more variation in colour I
did a light drybrushing with model colour light yellow. I’m not sure this made a huge
difference, really. Next I take some Secret Weapon heavy body
black and apply it undiluted to the dark areas of the warning stripes. I try to do this neatly,
but i did get some onto the yellow areas. Not a huge deal though. We can pass that off
as dirt. You can see the difference this makes is quite
an obvious improvement. I then dilute the heavy body black to about
50 percent black and 50 percent water and applied it to all the gaps. If It gets onto
a spot I don’t want it I simply rub it away with my finger. If a little bit remains that’s
okay. It will just look like dirt or some kind of spill. Next I made a wash with army painter strong
tone. About 50 percent strong tone and 50 percent water. I just slap this all over the
base to give it a nice dirty look. When this dried I sprayed a layer of AK interactive
satin varnish to protect the paint from the next steps. I removed the maskol. I am sure the alcohol
based thinner used in the next step will interfere with the maskol and make a big mess. Either
way I’m not sure if I left this on too long or not, the bottle says to leave it on no
more than three days. I left it on for four and it was slightly tricky to remove, particularly
at the points where the maskol contacts the green stuff. It wasn’t impossible though.
I used tweezers and a stiff bristled brush in a stabbing downwards motion with the bristles
to scrape the maskol off. There were a few patches of green left behind,
but it isn’t too big a deal. I fix it by applying model colour black grey with a fine
brush. These areas are small enough that it won’t stand out too much And I didn’t
feel it needed any washes or anything to help it blend in with the rest of the base. In my opinion, the bases looked pretty good
at this stage. I really, really like the translucent purple. They could be called complete now,
but I decided to add a tiny bit more weathering. I used AK interactive light rust in various
places around the base, particularly in the gaps of the damaged looking areas. I dabbed at it with a sponge to both remove
some of the rust and and give it a bit more of a speckly consistency. I’m not sure how
effective that was, but it was worth trying. Next I take clean brush with plain thinner
and use it to thin out the rust a little bit more. I also splattered some AK interactive fuel
stains around the base but I forgot to film myself applying it, but this is what the result
looked like. Next I sprayed the bases with some matte varnish
and that’s it. They’re now ready for the models to be attached. Which I won’t be
showing today. Tomorrow, or maybe the day after, depending
how editing goes I will post a video in which I paint the models that are going on these
bases, and you can see the grand joining of model to base then, so stick around if you’d
like to see that. This was my first time using these green stuff
rollers and I think they’re pretty good. I’m really happy with how the factory ground
one lookst when it’s all painted up. I am most likely going to use the bricks one to
make bases for my Bolt Action soviet infantry. whenever I get around to painting those up. If you’re interested you can buy the rollers
from Green Stuff World. I will put a link to their site in the description. Obviously
there are cheaper ways to texture green stuff, but these rollers can be used over and over
again, and they’re quick and easy to use which appeals to me a lot. I like that I’ll
be able to produce consistent bases just like the ones I have already made. I hope this video was interesting or helpful
for you. As always I would really like to hear any comments questions or suggestions
you might have in the comments section below, on facebook or twitter. You can find social
media links in the description. Don’t forget to click like if you liked
this and subscribe if you haven’t already and all those youtubey things. Thanks for watching. Farewell.

12 thoughts on “Green Stuff Rollers and Base Making”

  1. Neves1789 says:

    Looks great!

  2. SneakyZaku says:

    Excellent bases! I will certainly need to get some of these rollers for myself.

  3. Jim says:

    Happy Sepukku have some base insert molds for this exact thing. They're sized for Warmaachine bases, so you just insert the putty, roll it over and then trim it up when it's dry and glue it into your base.

  4. DatOneAsianKid says:

    No wonder why your line graph sheet, thingy, is green……..

  5. UrSilverLining says:

    nice video

  6. MonkeyShaman says:

    vaseline from any sculpting supply store works to keep green stuff from sticking and speeds up drying time a bit.

  7. Conan the Barbarian says:

    cool.

  8. SmittyM14 says:

    Have some of these as well and I like them. Handy little tools.

  9. Adam Krause says:

    Could you use these for making terrain? (roads floors ect…)

  10. HappyandAtheist says:

    I have the industrial floor roller as well. I used it to skin a scratch built Titain , great for making plates for tanks ect as well as floors  🙂

  11. lee33701 says:

    I just bought some for my 40k armies. I just have them on black bases.

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