GSXR Wheel Bearing Removal and Replacement | Suzuki GSXR 1000 | Partzilla.com
GSXR Wheel Bearing Removal and Replacement | Suzuki GSXR 1000 | Partzilla.com


Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla,com. Today I’m going to show you how to change
out the front wheel bearings on our 2007 Suzuki GSX-R1000. Not too tough to do, just want to lift up
the table a little bit so it’s a little bit easier to get to, take off that front tire,
take it over to the teardown bench, and I’ll show you how to get it done. So let’s get started. Alright guys, this is not going to be that
though. It’s just barely a skill level two. So, let’s go over some of the tools you’re
going to need to pull this off. A 10, a 12, and a 22mm socket, a decent 3/8th
ratchet, maybe an extension, good hammer, a punch tool, and as always a decent torque
wrench. Now one specialty tool you’re going to need
to get is a bearing driver set. Pretty much need a wide range because what
you’re trying to do or what you have to do is actually match up the outer diameter of
your bearing and your dust seal with the correct sized driver so you don’t damage either one. Now as far as the parts go, I’m actually using
a complete kit that has all the parts necessary to do the front and rear wheel. But, in this particular video, I’m only doing
the front. So, if you’re only doing the front, why don’t
you reference our parts diagrams at Partzilla.com and you can pick out the pieces that you’re
going to need, which is basically the bearings and those outer dust shields. So, once you’ve got your tools and your parts
together, we can go over there and I’ll show you how to get it done. So, what I want to show you is these bearings
are truly worn out on the front end. When I would push it around it would go click,
click, click. And now that we’ve got it lifted, I’m just
gonna rock it back and forth, but it should move about a 16th of an inch. I mean, that is substantial. At speed, that is enough to get you into a
lot of trouble. So, let’s go ahead and get this front tire
off and get it over to the teardown bench. Let’s start off by getting these calipers
out of the way. They were just held in by four 12mm bolts. Pretty simple stuff. Next let’s just go ahead and back off on our
pinch bolts at the end of the forks. That’s just a 10mm. Going to get this axle bolt off, going to
be a 22mm. Now, we should be able to just push our axle
through and then lower the tire off. And there she is. Pretty simple to get this off. Now all we need to do is just head over to
the teardown bench and get those bearings swapped out. Okay, basically what you’re looking at here
is an outer dust seal, and there’s going to be a bearing, and there’s going to be a spacer,
and on the other side a duplicate bearing and a duplicate dust seal. I’m actually going to be using a kit from
Suzuki, but it includes the front and the rear bearings. Now if you need just the front, we’d be glad
to sell you those. But if you’re having a little bit of trouble
up front, chances are your rear bearings are probably due to get replaced as well, as is
the case with this particular machine. So, let’s go ahead and get that dust cover
pried off of either side and then we’ll start driving those bearings out. A couple of different ways. You know in the Suzuki manual they actually
have a dust seal removal tool, looks like a pair of jaws and it just kinda pries it
out. We’re not reusing these, so typically I just
put a flat blade screwdriver in there, turn up, and pops it right out. Let’s do the same thing on the other side. That’s pretty funny. Guess what? there was no dust seal on the other side. Gee, I wonder why the bearings failed? So, let’s continue on. Just feeling this bearing, it feels a little
bit scratchy. I think that’s where our problem was. Someone decided they didn’t want to put on
a dust seal, and this is that happens. There’s a couple of different ways you can
do this. You can use what they call a blind bearing
puller, actually goes in there with a couple of jaws, you expand them out, pop them out. That works sometimes, but you have to take
a lot of effort to pop it out. What I’m going to do is just lift it up, support
the hub, and then just knock it out from both sides. What I’ve chosen as a collar that’s gonna
fit is as close as I can get to that edge on the inside, and then I’m also going to
put a cloth in there because I don’t want to damage the hub because it’s going to be
metal on metal. Now, let’s go ahead and get a punch and we’re
aiming just for the inside of that race. Let’s see if we can knock it out. There you go, I think it did. Let’s go look. Yeah. There’s our spacer, and there is our bearing. look how nasty that is. So, yeah, that’s where all the looseness was. See how much I can move that? Whoo, even stinks! Alright, that’s one out. Let’s go ahead and knock out the other one. There he goes. Not as bad as the other side, but still pretty
rough. Next is a fair amount of dirt and debris,
I want to get all of that out of there, so let me get this cleaned up and then we’ll
continue. What I’m going to do is use just a driver
to push this in, just hammer it in. Two things you have to be aware of. One, you don’t want to hurt your disc on the
other side by having it press against it anywhere. Second, when you’re driving this in, you cannot
drive by that inner section right there, that inner race, because you do that and you’re
going to damage your bearing. Where you do want to get is all the way out
to this edge right here. that’s where you want to be. So whatever driver– bearing driver set you’re
using– make sure it makes contact with that outer section and not the inner section. So, this already has grease inside the bearing,
we’re gonna pack a little more in there, and this is actually a product made by Yamaha,
Yamalube race grease. Really good stuff here. So, we’re gonna get just a little more of
this, finish packing the inside of these bearings. And you want the exposed surface to go inside. Before we start driving it in there, just
want to take our hammer and lightly start bringing it in. this pretty much just centering it. Makes sure it’s not one way or another. And that’s just getting it started lightly. Alright, I actually have this hub sitting
on this surface, it’s pushing directly into that center of the hub. This should not affect the brake disc on the
other side. So, let’s go ahead and drive it in. If you feel it kinda starting to lean one
way or another like this one’s trying to do, Hold it over to that side and see if you can
straighten back up. Now when it bottoms out, it’ll sound different. It’ll have almost like a thud that’s driven
all the way home. That’s what we’re after. There it is. Alright, that is all the way in there now. We’ll flip it over, we’ll go ahead and do
the other side, then we’ll do the dust seals last one at a time. Very important, don’t forget this, your spacer. So just go ahead and set it in place. Then we’ll take our other bearing and add
just a little bit more grease to the bearing surface. Just cramming it in there. Just a little more is not going to hurt it. Alright, let’s go ahead and get her started. There she is. Now, we can go ahead and put in our dust seals. Once again, let’s get some grease on that
inner section, and we should be able to use the same driver to go ahead and send that
in. What you’re looking for is it goes flush with
it. So when you’re using this kinda bring it to
the outside. That way it’ll hit on the outside of the hub
and not drive it too far in there. So you just want it flush with the hub. Alright, that looks good. Let’s flip it over and get the other side
done. Then we’ll be about finished with this one. A little bit more grease. Let’s get it started. Alright, let’s go. Alright, let’s get it back on the machine,
finish this job up. Alright we’ve pretty much got the wheel to
go. Just make sure you put this collar on the
right hand side of the machine. Tell you what, we’re going to clean this axle
up real quick and re-grease it. Just want to get a thin coat of grease in
this area and then especially right there where that seal is going to be pushed through. Alright, let’s go ahead and lift her up and
start feeding that axle through. Now we just want to put on the axle bolt just
hand tight to start with anyway. Now let’s go ahead and get the brake caliper
back on. Alright, let’s go ahead and get those torqued
down, and they’re going to be set to 28 foot-pounds. Alright, let’s go ahead and get this front
axle bolt torqued in. Hold that with a 24mm on one side. Alright, we’re going to set it to 72.5 foot-pounds. There it is. Alright, let’s go ahead and set our pinch
bolts to 16.5 on the right side first. And what we’re going to do is drop it down,
and we’re just going to push down on the front end about three or four times. This just gets things centered. And now, we can go ahead and do the left side
pinch bolts. Now, just for kicks, let’s lift it back up
and see how it feels, because remember before I could click it back and forth. There’s no play in it whatsoever. So, I feel a whole lot better about the front
end of this machine. Well listen, if you need any of the parts
that we used, why don’t you come see us at Partzilla.com and we can get you taken care
of. If you have any questions or comments, just
leave them in the section below and I’ll do my best to answer them. Till next time we just want to say thanks
for watching.

28 thoughts on “GSXR Wheel Bearing Removal and Replacement | Suzuki GSXR 1000 | Partzilla.com”

  1. A.J. Stafford says:

    Freakin love this guy and partzilla

  2. upside downdog says:

    Another great video. Having a twin is a bit like cheating though!

  3. Shahid Khan says:

    My vfr 800 abs is not working plz helf say same thing in coments

  4. Shahid Khan says:

    Berang is ezey coming out to the car jeak poler is the farfict mathod

  5. Ronan Reilly says:

    Hi John I have a Suzuki Ozark 250 atv and there is oil coming out from the valve cover on the top of the engine. What could be wrong could it be a gasket or a seal??. Sometimes the atv does stall what it is taking over what could be wrong can you please help???.

  6. Brandon Burton says:

    Were are you'll located at

  7. A concerned citizen says:

    Love these vids. Wish I had the space and tools to work on stuff like this.

  8. Hakan Cavusoglu says:

    Two John Telly‘s in the same Video,
    great visual effects and great video again. Thanks for many „How to..“ manuals.
    Best Regards vom Switzerland. 👍

  9. Tommo says:

    Brilliant vids ol lad.. Really is the go to vids for repairs and servicing.. Cheers Tony from the UK

  10. Emilio Esparza says:

    What torque wrench is that? I've been using a Tekton but would like to get a digital one just like the one John always uses on all of the videos.

  11. HECLUV2476 says:

    Just wondering when will you be doing the rear bearings? … would really like to see it and it would be very helpful to me

  12. J. G.V. says:

    Tell that customer his tire is mounted backwards on the rim. Needs a new tire, If it was removed and mounted again the opposite direction he would have the old tire carcass separate. New tire!

  13. mark marrky says:

    I have’nt bike but i’m enjoying your videos 👍🏻👍🏻

  14. mydogsparky says:

    Hello from the UK, My front bearing just self destructed on my 2011 gsxr750 21000 miles on the clock and it has destroyed the inner wheel. Now one bearing is totaled but inspecting the other ,the grease in the bearing is toast , i mean it is totally shot and not doing its job, So it got me thinking, we all lube our chains and check fluid levels but forget about prob the most important stuff like wheel bearings. So is there any maintenance procedures we can do to help prolong the wheel bearing and prevent expensive garage costs. There doesn't seem to me to be a way of re greasing the bearing without popping them out (which means you have to replace them anyway) ?

  15. ofu eru says:

    And I'll show you how you gonna get it done lol
    I love you

  16. jkdbjjconnection says:

    There a video for the rear wheel bearing?

  17. jkdbjjconnection says:

    If your too cheap to buy a bearing driver set you can use a socket

  18. Sharon David says:

    So…

  19. Khyal Gul says:

    Great from Pakistan

  20. naveedaka says:

    sir…why you didnt apply grease on the outer race before hammering??

  21. Artur Sarol says:

    Hi John. Great video. Just wanted to let you know that the tyre is wrong way round or the wheel put back on wrong way.

  22. bristol says:

    Thanks you made it look easy……… I was a bit concerned about the origins of the bike with a dust seal missing and the tyre tread pointing in the wrong direction…… thanks for posting……..

  23. kawi lifezx10r says:

    Little heat to hub put bearing in freezer for a bit put cold bearing into the heated hub slides right in. Well takes less effort. The tool kit is cool but for a rider who will o ly do this if ever every few years just use old bearing to drive new bearing in. Nice vid gonna check the website now.

  24. waycoolcar toys says:

    How did not tightening the left side pinch bolts help align forks?

  25. Juan De la cruz says:

    They only use one front axle? Its the same for a gsxr1000 2015? One front axle?

  26. Joachim Van Goethem says:

    Im about to buy myself a second hand Suzuki GSXR 750 from 2009. Its having 19450 km's on it. Do you have any tips where i should be looking at really closely?

  27. Gilo Moto says:

    I wouldn’t let this guy loose on my push bike. If this is a dealer his tools for this simple task r a joke.

  28. MickyInsegnami says:

    Great video!

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