GSXR Wheel Bearing Replacement | Suzuki GSXR 1000 Rear Wheel Bearings | Partzilla.com
GSXR Wheel Bearing Replacement | Suzuki GSXR 1000 Rear Wheel Bearings | Partzilla.com


Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla.com. Today I’m going to show you how to change
out the rear wheel bearings on our 2007 Suzuki GSX-R 1000R. Not too tough, just need to make sure it’s
secured down, lift it up, and get that rear wheel off. So, before we get going, let’s head over to
the table and talk about the tools and the parts we’re going to need to pull this off. Welcome to the tool table. This is going to be a skill level two, but
it’s not going to be that severe. Speaking of the tools, let’s go over some
of the ones that you’re going to need to pull this off. I’m going to show you a couple of different
techniques as far as taking the bearings out, so either a, you’re going to be using a bearing
driver set or b, this really nice set from Suzuki. I’m going to show you how to do both, it’s
up to your wallet to decide which one you want to go with. Other than that, you’re gonna need a couple
of hammers, a dead blow, a regular one, a 36mm socket, 12mm wrench, 10mm wrench, a breaker
bar, and some type of steel rod if you decide to knock out the bearings without the kit. And as always, gonna need a good torque wrench. Now, if you would, go ahead and reference
our exploded parts diagrams. That’s going to give you a clear picture of
where everything is and keep in mind on this particular bike, there’s actually three wheel
bearings that we’re going to be working with. So you want to make sure you get all of those
and make sure that they’re the correct ones. So, once you’ve got all your tools and your
parts together, we can go over there and I can guide you through the process. So let’s go. Alright, step one, bring the adjusters back
for the chain tension. All you have is just a 12mm lock nut and then
a 10mm adjustment bolt going through it. What we’re trying to accomplish here once
we loosen up the axle- it’s a 36mm– is to be able to slide it far enough forward to
where we can drop the axle out and get the chain off of the sprocket. We can walk it off the sprocket and lay it
up and to the side. Alright, typically I usually put one hand
under the tire just to take some of the pressure off and then the axle will slide right out. At this point, take your caliper, slide it
back, then hang it off to the side. Now we can head over to the teardown bench. As we’re doing this guys, keep in mind, don’t
want to damage your brake rotor or any of the surfaces of the rim. To keep that a little safe, at least have
some type of wood under it so nothing gets gouged or scratched. Now what we’re after here is actually three
separate bearings. If you were looking at our parts diagram,
you actually have a bearing that’s inside the sprocket hub and then two more that are
in the wheel hub. There’s a couple of ways you can do this. You can come to us and order a Suzuki OEM
bearing puller kit, or we can use just a hammer and a punch tool and knock out the bearing. I’m going to show you both so you know there’s
an option if you don’t want to break out the hammer. To start with, we’re going to try using the
Suzuki tool on the wheel assembly first. Step number one, let’s go ahead and get that
seal out. Take a screwdriver, pop it in the side, turn
it as you’re going around the edge, and she will work her way up. If you’re using the kit there are several
different extractors and the one we want to use for the inner bearings is the 28mm. We want that to go just under the edge of
the inside of the bearing. Going to take our push pin, alright it’s grabbing
where it needs to be, but we need to tighten it up to expand it all the way in there. As we tighten this down the pin goes in and
expands the edges out. So it’s going to have a very firm grasp on
the inside of the bearing. Starting to tighten up. There. Now it’s got a pretty firm hold of the inside
of that bearing. Now we take the tool, line up on the edges
of the hub itself, start threading it in. Let’s grab it here and see if we can break
it free. One bearing and spacer. Alright guys, now we’re going to try an alternate
process number two, which is just basically a rod and a hammer. And what I’m doing is just aiming toward as
far as I can go out on the bearing. It’s actually on the inner race and we’re
kinda angling it in a little bit. And we’re going to see if we can drive it
out. Now I’m alternating back and forth so it doesn’t
get bound up. Okay! She’s out! Not nearly as elegant, but it got the job
done. And that was fun with the hammer and all that,
but for this last bearing I’m going to go back to the special tool because it was a
whole lot smoother. Now this one’s just a little bit bigger if
memory serves. But first, let’s get the seal out. Same procedure: big screwdriver, turn, push. Done. And you’ll notice this little collar here. Go ahead and lift that out. Suzuki says that a thirty millimeter one of
these is supposed to pull that bearing out. Well, no. It bottoms out and it doesn’t want to come
out. So what we’re going to do is put this little
adapter back in there and use the tool to grab it and then pull it through. There she goes. Now it tightened up. That should get it the rest of the way. Game over. Nice tool. Expensive, but a good tool nonetheless. There we go. Bearings are removed, now we just need to
start putting it back together. So, let’s start with the hub. Alright, they make a special tool that will
let you press this in. You can use a press, I have one, but I’m just
gonna use a bearing driver set to knock them back in place. If you do, make sure you have it supported
by wood or some type of soft structure so you don’t scar up anything or worse yet: break
it. When Suzuki sends out their bearings, they
do have some grease inside, but we want to add too. I prefer using the Yamaha, the race grease. This is really high-quality stuff. Now we’re gonna do is take it and push it
down inside the bearing. Okay, so we’re going to take our seal and
we want the seal side facing in because we’ve got the dust seal that goes to the outside. So, before we get started with the bearing
driver set, we’re going to use the raw hammer and just lightly tap around the edge to try
to get it flush or centered to where it can go down in there. Because what you don’t want to happen is to
hit one side a little too much and then get it stuck going in at an angle. Now what you want with this is you want it
to go all the way out to this outer section of the bearing. you just don’t want to get a smaller one and
get on the inside. Because if you do that, you’re going to damage
the race and the ball bearings themselves. Starts making that different sound, you know
you’ve bottomed it out. Next, grab our seal, go ahead and load it
up with some grease on the inside that is. We don’t want to get it on the outside. Same as with the bearing, we want to tap it
lightly to get it centered. Then go ahead and send it home. With this, you do want to bring it off to
the side because I just want it even with the top of the hub. Alright guys, this part’s ready to go, let’s
go ahead and get those bearings driven into the actual rear wheel. And we want to start on the caliper rotor
side, which is going to be the right side of the machine. Like we did on the other bearing, we want
to go ahead and pack these surfaces in here with some more grease. And when you’re installing these, the seal
part is going to be facing outward. Once again, you only want to get the driver
that’s going to reach out to the outside of the bearing. She’s bottomed out. Next, want to do the other side. Now the trick here is to make sure that you’re
aligned on this spacer. Let’s go ahead and pack in our grease. To keep that spacer centered, I’m going to
put the rim up high enough and I’m actually going to use the axle. Use this to send it in. Getting close. That is it. So now, I know that it’s going to be lined
up for the axle to go through that inner sleeve, because it’s the inner sleeve that’s actually
getting compresses in between the inner races on each bearing, one on the right, one on
the left. With that out of the way, let’s go ahead and
take our leaning tower of Pisa down. Our tire tower, that’s what we’re calling
it. Now, we just need to get that last seal in
place. There’s no reason to pack this one because
it is not facing any open bearings, but we do want to put some just on the inside of
this edge, all the way around there. Getting close. Alright, that should do it. Let’s go back over to the machine and get
it remounted. Alright, time to get our cushions back in
place. Make sure when you put these back in that
these three little protrusions are facing out. Then this spacer on the outside. Hit this side. Bring your caliper around. Alright, axle through. Let’s go ahead and get our chain back on. Get our adjustment block in. Washer. That 36mm nut. Only thing I need to do now is just set the
tension on the chain itself. Now listen, if you need detailed, step-by-step
instructions on that, reference our sprocket and chain replacement video. I go through step-by-step how to set the tension
on it just right. Well alright guys, that wraps this one up. Well listen, if you need any parts for your
machine, why don’t you come see us at Partzilla.com and we can get you taken care of. Have any questions or comments? Leave them in the section below and I’ll do
my best to answer them. If you like what you’re watching, why don’t
you go ahead and hit that subscribe button. That way, you can see what I’m going to do
next. So, we just want to say thanks for shopping
here with us at Partzilla and we will see you in the next video. Have a great day.

14 thoughts on “GSXR Wheel Bearing Replacement | Suzuki GSXR 1000 Rear Wheel Bearings | Partzilla.com”

  1. Sakis Tsi says:

    Very very good mastor !!!

  2. sandyroadking says:

    Dear John, was wondering why you didn't use the blind bearing puller u had already ?

  3. Tim says:

    Nice video, i have to do this soon on my 2012 gsx-r600. Shes done around 24,000kms

  4. gnanamoorthi babu says:

    Video highlight is awesome

  5. Jeffrey Hinman says:

    Don’t you want to allow the spacer to move just a little inside? That way you can get the bearings back out and you are able to move the spacer somewhat to the side to get a drift down into the hub

  6. mike brown says:

    Always nice videos ..will you be changing and replacing tires on the gsxr

  7. Emilio Esparza says:

    @Partzilla, Hey John, quick question, I am hearing a squeaking noise from the rear suspension on my 14' GSXR1000. Can you provide any ideas or tips where should I put grease or anything to fix it? Bike barely has 6K miles on it. Thanks in advance.

  8. Amir Amir gerard says:

    How to pry the oil seal?

  9. Markos Man says:

    Awesome video

  10. Benjamin Vallin says:

    Wrong front tire rotation

  11. 2WheelM4yh3m says:

    Ordered a set for my 07 cbr1000rr. The kit came with 5 bearings but the diagram only shows 4. I'm confused. I know 2 for the sprocket carrier and 2 for the wheels but what about the 5th bearings? It's the same size as the bearings for the brake side. Thanks.

  12. Ung Grabb says:

    Good

  13. MickyInsegnami says:

    Why is one bearing (the one on the rear sprocket) fitted with the balls facing outside?

  14. Brodi McKinnon says:

    Hey there Partzilla, I have a 1998 GSXR 750 and I have read that you shouldn't bottom out the 2nd bearing, there is supposed to be some very slight clearance between the axle spacer tube in the rim and the 2nd bearing; thus allowing the spacer to move slightly.

    I read also that bottoming out the 2nd bearing onto the spacer tube puts an irregular side-load onto the bearings.

    Can you please confirm or deny these claims for me so I can stop pulling hairs out of my head thinking about putting my new Koyo bearings in? 😛

    Really appreciate any info on this topic, thank you in advance.

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