Honda Goldwing Front Wheel Bearing Replacement  | Partzilla.com
Honda Goldwing Front Wheel Bearing Replacement | Partzilla.com


Hello. John Talley here with
Partzilla.com. Today we’re going to be replacing the front wheel wheel bearings
and the seals on our 2007 Honda Goldwing GL 1800A. Now if you’re riding along and
you’re starting to feel a little bit of shimmy in the front end, maybe a clicking
sound you can actually hear and feel through your handlebars? Chances are your
bearings probably need to be looked at. Jack up the front end see if you can
rock that wheel. If it moves, well, this is something you need to take care of. So
let’s cruise over to the table, let me show you some of the tools that we’re
gonna need to pull this off. Alright basically you need a pretty well-stocked
toolbox. A good 3/8 ratchet, an assortment of sockets. Want to make sure you’ve got a 22. Then on the Allen side, you need at least a 4 through a 6 millimeter as well as
this Torx T40. A couple of different screwdrivers, hammer, and an assortment of
wrenches. Now, it’s going to be important that you pick up some type of extractor to
get those bearings out. So you may want to look into buying one of these. Also,
you’re gonna need a good driver set to push in the new bearings as well as the
seals. Now let’s talk about the parts for a second. Basically there’s two bearings,
but don’t let your eyes fool you. Each one of these is actually one bearing. Then
you’re going to have a set of seals and notice that one side is different than
the other so there’s going to be two part numbers. Now if you’re having
trouble coming up with a parts list for your machine, look at that description
there’s a little arrow over to the right right beside the description that’s
going to take you to the parts list that we ended up using on this machine should
we have to add anything to it. Now if your machine isn’t exactly like the one
that I’m working on, then you need to go to Partzilla.com. It’s very easy to use.
There you’ll need to select the manufacturer, the category, the year, and
then the model. At that point you’re gonna see all the different components
for your particular machine to make sure that you’re going to get the right part.
Now if you’re still having a little bit of trouble, give us a call at one eight
seven seven four seven three four five nine five. We’ll be glad to help get you
the correct part for your machine and get it to you quickly. So once you’ve got
your parts and your tools together we go over to the machine and get it done.
So let’s go. Alright guys, before we dive into this,
first they order a business is to go ahead and bring the machine up, get
something to support the front end of the machine and then actually anchor
down all four corners because I don’t want this thing falling on me. Alright,
that should hold it still, so let’s go ahead and get the upper fender off. These
first ones are just a 5 millimeter Allen. Do yourself a favor when you’re taking
this apart. Try to leave them together because there’s a couple of different
lengths that we’re gonna run into and designs as we’re pulling this apart. So
keep them all grouped together. Alright, next we want to get our calipers off, and
you’ll notice that it’s different one side to the other. Over here it’s just
going to be a pair of 12 millimeters. On the other side, let’s go ahead and get
the brake pads out of the caliper. That way it’ll clear the rotor. Just
remove that little plastic stopper and then we’re going after that Allen on the
inside, and that is a five millimeter. Should just drop out. Now we can go and
remove that six millimeter Allen at the bottom and then that T40 Torx at the top. Alright now we can remove that 22
millimeter axle nut. Then we can loosen up our pinch bolts on either side. Don’t
have to remove them, just loosen them up. Those are 12 millimeters. Pull the axle
out. Just put a screwdriver into our axle, lift up on the tire a little bit, and
then we should be able to wiggle it out. So go ahead and get these two spacers
out. Alright, let’s get this over to our teardown bench get those seals and the
bearings knocked out. Let’s start by getting these seals out. Go ahead and do
both sides. Be careful– don’t pry down against that little speed wheel because
it will snap. Now go ahead and put it up on a couple of boards. So what we’re
going to be doing here is taking this tool, inserting it, expanding it out. And
we want that edge to grab on that part of the bearing. What I’m gonna do here is
set or mark where my depth should be. Just make it a little bit easier to line
everything up. The other thing I have to take into account is the travel. I mean you
want to have enough threads in there to where won’t strip. You need to have enough
left to where it’s got room to pull up. Now, move those out. That’s not where we
want to pull from but I’ve got to go ahead and get it set and then we’ll
bring the arms in when I have more room. Now we’re going to expand it out and
grab the inner race of the bearing. Alright I think she’s grabbing it now. Back
this off a few turns, bring our arms in. Now let’s see if we can pull her through.
That’s actually a good sound. Now Partzilla, we carry a whole bunch of
different makes and models of tools and Honda actually makes one to do this
particular procedure to this particular machine. I’m not real fan of buying one special tool that will only work on one
motorcycle. This particular set here– and I know it’s kind of pricey– you’ll be
glad that you invested the money in it because it has a wide range of different
sized bearings that it can pull, whereas the Honda, it only works on this one
bearing. Now, with this out the way, we can go ahead and just knock out the other
side. Just find a socket roughly the same diameter as this center section. But do
use a dead blow hammer to do this otherwise you’re gonna mar up the end
of your extension. There it goes. Now, we just need to drive in the new ones. Alright, let’s start with the right side, and that’s the side that has your pulsar
core. And once again make sure you’ve got wood up under the edge of the tire, because we don’t want to damage the rotor or the rim itself. So we’re gonna start by
driving it all the way in until it is completely and fully seated in the hub.
We’re gonna be using the driver set to do this. We want to pick one that of
course is inside the outer diameter, but not so far in where it doesn’t catch on
that outside edge because if you just drive it from that
center section, you’re gonna end up knocking it through and damaging the
bearings. So you want to be on that outer lip but just not past it. So when you’re
doing this, make sure you’re on it square so you don’t want to try to drive it in
at an angle. It’s not going to end well for you. And when we get it to bottom out
you will notice that the strikes against the driver will have a different sound
to it. That way you know you bottomed out. That’s it. That is it. While we’re on this
side, let’s go ahead and put our seal in. I just wanted to go and get a layer of
grease on the inside. Do not get it on the outside. You just
want it even with the outside of the hub. I think that’s got it. Now let’s do the
other side. Now do not forget to put in your collar. And the reason you wanted to
put the right bearing in first is that if you look down in here you’ll actually
notice that the bottom side of the hub is the same diameter as the outside of
this. That is going to keep it centered when you put in the second bearing. See
there’s a lot of play there, but it’ll keep it centered when you do the right
side first, then you come around and do the left. Just remember that the right
side you can identify it because it has that ring on the inside which they call
a pulsar core. Yeah. Same setup. Well that looks good. And grease up our other seal
then we’ll drive it in. That looks good. Alright we’re done with these, let’s get
it put back on the machine. Speed sensor ring on that side. Get our spacers
in. I’ve got to center that spacer. There we go. Bring it up, slide that axle through so we
can get her to twist back in there. There we go. Alright we’ve got it bottomed out
against this other side, so temporarily I want to go ahead and tighten down the
left side pinch bolts. Now we want to put on the axle nut and then get it torqued
down. We’re gonna take it to 44 foot-pounds.
Next we can go ahead and torque the right side pinch bolts to 16 foot-pounds.
Let’s go back over to the left and I want to release those because I want to
show you something here. There’s a line that needs to be a reference point to
make sure that these forks are parallel. But each machine’s going to be a little
bit different. What you want to do is pull against it as far as you can and
then push with the same amount of pressure in. And then between those two
points that’s where you want it. You want to pick that midpoint. Now it may end up
being right on that line just like it was designed to be, but I’ve actually
seen these machines to where that actual center point may be the width of the
line out or it may be the width of the line in. That one little change down here
can make a whole big difference as far as it binding up up top. You can usually
tell a machine that’s a little bit out of whack when it’s sitting on its side
stand if you lift up on it on the handlebars just a little bit and it
stays there? There’s too much diction in the fork. They should go back down to a
natural resting position. So let’s take a look at this one see what we’ve got.
Alright that’s a little bit past the line and that’s a little bit on the
inside and maybe a line and a half. So the midpoint should be about right there.
Now that we found that midpoint, we can go ahead and torque these down to 16
foot-pounds. Alright let’s start getting our calipers mounted up, get our
brake pads in there get that brake pin in. Now if you need detailed instructions
on you know remounting the the brake shoes we have a video that covers that
so go check it out. Gonna leave these on loose until I get the
front section put on. Okay the last piece that needs to go on is this cross brace
and I’m actually not going to use the one that came off in the machine. I’m
gonna tell you why. This one is what they call just a two-piece, and it just clamps
it and it forces the forks to go to whatever measurement that it’s set at
and that’s not good as we were discussing the lower section how
important that adjustment is. So the kind that you want to go with is one that is
actually adjustable left to right and that’s what I’m gonna use. So when you’re
putting this one together I’m actually loosening up the left and right to where it
has some play. And take off the end caps, tighten those down, then we go in and
tighten down the center section. You want the longer one to go up front,
shorter one in the back. Same thing for the other side. Everybody started so
let’s get these tightened down. Now we can tighten down that center section and
that’ll finish it up. So now it doesn’t have any– it’s not forcing the forks.
It’s actually just holding them in place now. Alright guys that pretty much
wraps this one up. Got those bearings and new seals in, and I think she’s gonna be good
to go for a good while longer. Well listen, if you need any parts for your
machine won’t you come see us at Partzilla.com and we can get you taken
care of. If you like what you see, hit that subscribe button. That way you can
keep up with whatever I’m working on next. We just want to say thank you for
shopping here with us at Partzilla and we will see you in the next video. Have a great day.

6 thoughts on “Honda Goldwing Front Wheel Bearing Replacement | Partzilla.com”

  1. pisiont groszy says:

    Bearing + hammer is probably a bad idea

  2. Rajkiran Natarajan says:

    Mr. Talley would it be a good idea to heat up the hub and or put the bearings in the freezer before pushing in the bearings? Obviously not necessary but most bearing change jobs seem to do this under the belief that the hub inner surface is less damaged when driving in the new bearings.

  3. Moto Rider says:

    Perfeito

  4. jeff claus says:

    Great videos!! I want your torque wrench. What brand is it?

  5. Chris C says:

    LOL! Link to bearing remover kit is $560. Of course that's cause it has a suzuki name on it. You can get them for under $100 or just bang them out if you know what you're doing. I have a pit posse one that I got for around $40. I have the motion pro driver kit and another one I got off ebay for different sizes that looks like the one in the video. They work great. Good vid though. I like partzilla for parts

  6. IceStone69 says:

    Hi mr.John I was hoping you had a video of installing an engine on a quad…. it would help me out if I saw a professional doing it any help would be greatly appreciated

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