How to Build Timber Wall Framing | Mitre 10 Easy As
How to Build Timber Wall Framing | Mitre 10 Easy As


If you’re wanting to update
the layout of your home, like turning a large room
into two smaller rooms, or creating a partition
in an open plan area, then building framing for
a non-load-bearing wall is something you
can do yourself. I’ll show you how
to do it, easy as. So the framing
I’m going to build is 3 meters long by
2,420 high, which is the standard
height for framing. Now obviously, you just
want to check the dimensions of your situation. So I’m just going to draw
myself a little plan, so I know exactly how much
timber I’m going to use. My wall’s 3 meters
wide and 2,420 high, so we’ll need a top and
bottom plate by 3 meters long and a stud on each end. I’m also gonna allow for a door
to be installed into my wall, and I’m going to place it
on the end of my frame. The width of my door
is 760 millimeters, and including the jams will
make it 800 millimeters wide. We’ll also add an extra 15 mils
to allow it to slip into place, so that means we’ll need
815 millimeters overall to allow for the door. We’ll then need studs
every 600 millimeters. If your wall is higher,
up to three meters your studs will need to be
spaced every 400 millimeters. As I said, the overall
height of my frame is 2,420. My top and bottom plates
are 45 millimeters thick. And taking them
both into account, that gives me a stud
length of 2,330. So I’ll be needing
6 studs at 2,330, and a top and bottom
plate at 3 meters each. Now if you’ve got any questions
about drawing up your plan, then it’s a good idea to
talk to a licensed building practitioner. [TABLE SAW SOUND] OK, I’ve already cut my top and
bottom plate to 3 meters long, so I’m just about ready
to start marking out. The first I’m going to do is
mark where my first full length stud is going to go,
and we put our X there that indicates it’s
a full length stud. And the next mark
is our under-stud, so I’m just going to
put US on there that indicates under-stud. Under-studs go either
side of our door frame. From there, I’m
going to mark out our door width, which is 815. So just got to square that
across, and write on there under-stud. And then I’m going to
come across the thickness of our framing, and
then next to that I’m going to put a cross, which
indicates our full length stud. We place Studs every 600
millimeter centers. So to find the center
of our first stud, measure 600 millimeters
from the end. That’s where we want the
center of our stud to sit. Taking into account the
thickness of our framing at 45 mil, we half there,
about 22 mils, and we take it off
our 600, which places the edge of our stud at 578. Now that we’ve got that,
we just continue to measure every 600 millimeters. So the first one was 578. The next one will
be 1,178, and so on. Now, the reason why we’re
marking out at 600 centers is because most of
our plasterboard is at 1,200 wide, if you
wanted to fix it vertically. Even though, most
situations now, we fix all our
plasterboard horizontally. So the next thing I do is mark
out on top and bottom plates exactly where I’ve just
put all those marks. Now, over this end here
where our doorway is, I’m still going to mark that
out only on the top plate, because, obviously, the bottom
plate’s going to get chopped out for our doorway later. On the rest of these, we’ll
just mark these the whole way around, with a big cross
on here to indicate exactly where our stud is. And obviously, we’ll just have
one stud right on the very end. So the next I’m going to do is
open up a top and bottom plate, and just mark on the faces. So just before we start
building our framing, the next thing
I’m going to do is I’m going to make
a couple of cuts on the bottom of
our bottom plate. The reason for this
is this section of timber, where our doorway
is, that will get cut out later on for you to put your door in. So what I’m going
to do first is just make a couple of little
cuts into the bottom of the bottom plate, and I’m
going to cut off about 15 mils. The reason I’m
going to do that is because, if you’ve got a nice
polished timber floor, or even a concrete floor, you don’t
want to scratch your floor, and also, if it’s
a concrete floor, you don’t want a blunt in
you teeth of your hand saw. OK, so that’s enough. That’s about 15 to 20 mil
I’ve cut through the bottom of the bottom plate. Now, once you’ve
stood your framing up and you fix that to
the ground, then you can chop through the
top and you’re not going to wreck your
floor or your hand saw. So now we’re ready to
start building our framing. OK. So I’ve laid out my
top and bottom plate. The next I’m going to do is
start putting in my full length studs. So when you’re cutting
any framing timber, you want to make sure the
timber that you’re using is as straight as you
can possibly find it. So first I’m just
going to put our studs in on our ends of our wall. At this stage, we’re not
going to worry too much about getting the square. We’re just gonna lay
in all our framing. Righty oh. So now we’re ready to start
putting our framing together. Now, I’m going to
use a nail gun, but at home, if you
don’t have a nail gun, what you want to use is
90 millimeter flat head nails. Because it’s interior, you
can just use bright steel. If you have galvanized,
that’ll do as well. [NAIL GUN SOUND] Now, I’ve already
cut my under-studs. Now, the under-studs go
either side of our doorway. To find out how long our
under-studs need to be, you’ll need to measure
up for your doorway. Our door is 1,980 high. And with 20 mil for the
jam, that’s 2 meters. To make sure the door
can swing freely, I’m allowing another
15 mil for clearance, which is fine for concrete,
but if you have carpet, allow 20 millimeters clearance. I also need to add
another 10 mils to slip my door into the
framing, so that’s 2,025 I need from my door. But because the under-studs
sit on top of my 45 mil bottom plate, I need to take that
off, making the length of my under-studs at 1,980. So the next thing
we’re going to do is start marking out
where all our nogs, where all our dwangs sit. Now, the nogs are a
piece of the timber that go horizontally and
between all our studs, gives the whole frame
structural integrity. So what we’re going to do
is mark out 800 mil centers. We’ve got a 2.4 overall, so I’m
going to put two sets of nogs then. So I’m going to go
778 and a cross. That gives me 800 mil exactly
to the center of our nogs. The next one will be 1,578. Now, I’m going to do exactly
the same on the other side. And then I’m just
going to use a chalk line to ping a line to give
us exactly where they all sit. OK, just before we start
measuring our nogs, what I’m going to do is just mark
down, on our chalk lines, exactly where our
nogs are going to sit. And we’re just going
to put a cross there, so we know what side of
the line that they sit on. Now, we’re going to start
measuring for our nogs. So I know I’ve got three
studs at 600 mil center. So my framing is 45 mil effect. So if I take 45 or 600,
that leaves me 555. So these two bays here
should be exactly 555. So just to double check– 555, 555. So I now know I
need 4 nogs at 555. So now I’ll just measure
in between these two studs. That’s 180 millimeters,
so I need two of that. Just write on their 180. Now, this last
bay over here, I’m not going to measure these
nogs at this point yet. I’m going to put these
nogs all in first, and then I’ll measure
these two individually. And I’m going to make sure
my outside stud is straight, so if these nogs were to be
slightly too long or too short, and this stud here did have a
bow inside or out, by making sure that stud is straight, we
can measure these individually. And that way, we always know
that the outside of our frame is always going to be
straight and square. Cut your nogs to size,
and nail them in. [NAIL GUN SOUND] Now the reason why I haven’t
nailed in my under stud yet, just so what I can
do is slip my nog in, and that way I can nail
in from that side there. And once I nailed in, that
way I can then nail that on. It just gives a lot more
ease when putting that in, because it’s very hard to get in
there and put a couple of nails in on a skew. [NAIL GUN SOUND] So now we’re ready to start
measuring our last two nogs. Just want to make sure
that our outside stud is nice and straight. It’s 528, and that’s 528 too. So that’s great. [HAMMERING SOUND] [NAIL GUN SOUND] Now the last thing I have
to do is cut our lintel, and make that out of 150 by 50. Now, a lentil is a
horizontal member that spans an opening, in this case,
it is a non-load-bearing wall, but it is good practice to
put a lintel in over a doorway or a window anyway. So what I’m going to
do is just measure in between our two full
length studs, which is 909. Gonna cut two of those,
nail them together, and then slip it in. [NAIL GUN SOUND] The last nog I have to put
in is one just above the head on our 600 mark, so that’s 225. [HAMMERING SOUND] [NAIL GUN SOUND] Now, the last piece of
timber I have to fix in is this last under stud here. Now, the reason I
haven’t fixed that in yet is because, when I
stand this wall up and I butt this end
up against the wall, or wherever it’s
going, I can then just fix through our
full length stud. It’s a lot easier going
through one thickness of timber than two. So then once this is
fixed in, I would then fix that to the frame. So really, the only
thing I have to do now is just measure our diagonals to
make sure our frame is square. So that’s 3,845. And that’s 3,860. So I’ve got 15 mil difference,
so I just need to half that. So really, the easiest
way to fix this is by knocking this
corner to squeeze that out to make sure our
numbers are the same. [HAMMERING SOUND] OK. That’s nice and square. The last thing we have to
do is just stand it up. There’s your frame
built. Now there’s a couple of different ways
you could fix this down, if you had a timber floor. You could use 100
mil standard nails and just fix into your
joists in your floor, or what we’re using nowadays,
which is more standard, is these 100 mil bugle screws. They’ve got good holding
power, they’re really strong, and if you wanted to,
you could actually remove these nice and easy. Now, if you do have a
concrete floor like this, there’s a couple of
different options for you. You could use your
[INAUDIBLE] bolt or you can use your Excalibur
bolt. Either one of them, you have to drill
a hole and then ratchet them up nice and tight. Now, when you come to
fix it to your ceiling, just make sure, obviously,
that your frame is plumb, and you’re fixing into some
solid members into the ceiling. It’s always worthwhile, maybe,
to go up to your ceiling just to make sure that
you’re not going to be fixing into any wires. Once your frame is
fixed and in place, you can then cut out the bottom
plate within the door opening. It’s a good idea to take
a photo of the final frame and measurements for
future reference. So there we have it. Now you’ve got some nice
solid framing for your brand new interior wall. [ELECTRIC SAWING SOUND]

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *