How to Change the Bearings in a Washing Machine
How to Change the Bearings in a Washing Machine

Welcome to Buyspares. This video will show you how to change the
bearings in a washing machine. Before replacing a part in any electrical appliance you must first ensure the appliances is unplugged from the mains. If there’s a rumbling noise coming from your machine especially on the spin cycle,
and if there is an excessive movement between the drum and the door seal it’s likely
that the bearings are worn and need to be replaced. As this is a lengthy procedure
that involves dismantling the machine. We recommend that you watch this video in
full before making the decision to carry it out. After disconnecting the machine
unscrew and remove the lid. Remove the soap drawer and disconnect
the hoses on the back of the draw housing. Then lift the housing and move it out of the way. Next remove the retaining spring holding
the door seal to the front panel. If your machine has a removable front panel
remove the kick plate and control panel. If your machines front cannot be removed
you may need to lift the entire drum assembly from the machine
once it’s fully disconnected. To remove the control panel
it may need to be unclipped or unscrewed. Undo all the screws holding the front panel
on and remove the panel. You’ll need to disconnect the plug
from the door lock from the inside to do this. Disconnect the pressure chamber and sump hose
from underneath the tub. Then check for any other pipes or wires connected to the
front of the tub and disconnect them. Next unscrew and remove the rear panel. Remove and disconnect the drum motor. If your machine is not a direct drive machine
remove the pulley and belt to. Take a photo of all the other electrical
connections to the drum as a reminder before disconnecting them. Check around the back the drum for any more
connections to it removed when necessary. Take off any removable weights fitted to the tub. These can also be located on the bottom or at the back. Remove the damper pins connected to the damper’s to the drum by pushing the barb
in on the damper and pulling the pin out. If the pins can’t be removed on your machine disconnect the damper at the other end. Remove the springs from the top of the cabinet and lift the drum out. Depending on your machine you need to lift it through the front or the top. Place the drum onto an old blanket or matt. And undo all the bolts holding the two
halves of the drum together. If there are any clips you also need to undo these. Separate the two halves using a flat blade screwdriver
if necessary to prise them apart. Using a soft face hammer or mallet tap the
end of the drum shaft to release it from the bearings. You may need to use a socket extension as
a drift to help push it out. Remove the heater from the tub so that
you can lay the tub down flat. Use a screwdriver to prise out the rubber
seal from the inside of the tub. With the seal removed clean the faces of the
inner bearing and apply a penetrating fluid to make it easier to remove. Turn the tub over and use the mallet and drift
to knock the inner bearing out of the tub. Turn the tub back over
to remove the outer bearing. Here the outer bearing is broken up and only
the rim remains making it harder to remove the bearing. First apply some penetrating fluid
to lubricate it. A flat blade screwdriver or chisel can then
be used to gradually work the rim of the bearing free. I’f the outer bearing is still intact on your machine then just use the socket extension for a drift
as you did with the inner bearing. With both bearings removed clean the housing before knocking the new bearings
in with the mallet and drift. Make sure pressure is applied evenly around
the side of the bearing and not the center until it is fully located into position. Push the new seal into the bearing housing. This is a good opportunity to clean the drum. Before reassembling the tub. It’s important
to change the tub seal to prevent leaks. Prise the old tub seal out from around the tub. It’s a good idea to start at the top of the
tub opposite the heater cavity. Examine the new seal for a marking. This should be placed at the top of the tub.
Then work the seal into the space around the tub. Lower the drum into the tub so that the shaft sits in the bearings. Make sure the halves are correctly orientated when you do this. Screw the halves together by placing bolts on opposite sides to each other and screwing them in
until the two halves are just touching. When all the bolts are in place they could be tightened again on opposite
sides until there is no gap around the tub. Be careful not to over tighten the bolts
as this may strip the threads. With the tub reassembled
it can be placed back in the cabinet. Attach the springs to the top of the tub and
hook them on to the sides of the cabinet. Next attach the dampers on to the tub. Line up the split in the pin with the split in
the damper bush when pushing the pin through. Then make sure it’s fully pushed in after
by pulling on it. Refit the sump hose and the pressure chamber
to the bottom of the tub. Attach any weights the tub that were previously removed before reconnecting any pipes
or wires to the front to the tub. Reconnect the door lock then refit
the front panel to the machine. Attach the kick plate and screw or clip it in place. Followed by the control panel. Refit the door seal around the rim and use a flat blade screwdriver to ease the retaining spring over it. Locate the soap drawer housing into position and screw it on before
replacing the soap drawer. Reconnect the pipes from the soap drawer
to the drum. Reconnect cables to the motor and refit it. If your machine uses a belt and pulley reattach them to. Place the heater back into its cavity making sure it is secure in its seal before
reattaching the cables using your reference photo. Connect any other cables to the back to the drum. Then refit the rear panel to the machine. Finally place the lid on the machine and screw it on. For all the spares you need visit

63 thoughts on “How to Change the Bearings in a Washing Machine”

  1. DashShooter says:

    Many thanks for your presentation which has given me the confidence to tackle this job.

    I have a couple of comments/additions.

    It was easy to remove the control panel completely by separating the connectors in the signal cables. Safer, I thought, to have it completely out of the way then there's no possibility of damage to it or the cables.

    On my machine which has been in use for many years, the plastic spray nozzle fitted in the top of the rubber door seal was completely blocked with nasty brown gunge. I got the nozzle off and poked most of it out, then put it in the ultrasonic bath for a couple of cycles. The hose that feeds this nozzle was also blocked. I took it off the machine and used a length of old mains flex to poke out what resembled a thin, light brown turd then ran some clean water through it. Obviously the machine cannot have been washing properly in this state.

    I have now managed to get the bearings out. Hitting things with a rubber mallet was doing no good at all. I ended up holding a length of oak across the end of the shaft and hitting it hard with a lump hammer to get the drum out of the tub.

    I got the smaller outer bearing out first by using the largest socket from my set that would fit through the inner bearing, fitting it to an extension bar, laying the tub on a soft surface (a folded over floor mat on the kitchen floor) then using the socket/bar as a drift, hit the bastard hard with a lump hammer. When hitting it hard enough the sound changes as the bearing starts to come out. Turned the tub over and did the same with the largest socket I have to get the inner bearing out. My son has experience of getting bearings out and agrees that being gentle with them gets you nowhere.

    Now, with bits of washing machined piled all over the house, I'm having a large G&T because I deserve/need it and will continue tomorrow.

  2. LoneBear22 says:

    Thank you Sir, you are a lifesaver! I picked up one of these used, only to find the bearings were shot when it got to the spin cycle. The estimate for a repair job was higher than the cost of a new machine. By following your directions, I was able to complete the job myself and install new bearings, for just US$ 55! It runs like a new machine now.

    If anyone wants to tackle the job, it took me about 2.5 hours to disassemble and remove the bearings, following the directions in this video (not identical to my machine by close enough). I recommend having some trays for all the screws, to keep them associated with where they came from. Reassembly took about 3 hours. It is harder to reattach stuff, than it was to remove it.

    I am very grateful to you for posting this video. I could never have done this on my own.

  3. Tony Doyle says:

    This is the 3rd time in 5 years.

    1st time took me 4 hrs to get bearings out…
    If they are still encased, the job is pretty straightforward, but my 1st experience was a Total Nightmare and was a ""Bar Steward of a Job.
    The bearings were totally shafted & I left very little of casing to force out.
    I have now put 4 small "V" grooves on sides & Top/Bottom of drum with angle grinder(were bearing unit sits into) to enable screwdriver contact on casing ..
    (If Casing is Shafted, it now only takes a few mins to remove …:0)

    I don't take front of machine off tho.
    I drop machine on it's side & drag out Drum from bottom.
    Bearings cost me under £10.00
    It is a lengthy Job TBH, and cleaning Plastic Drum,Stainless steel Drum, Soap Tray,Rubber Pipes & Rubber seals etc… it takes me a FULL DAY…!!

    It's like a Brand New Machine Now so WORTH THE EFFORT…!!
    I had to work it out myself originally as this video was not around…lol…

  4. rasnovitch says:

    I just replaced the bearings of my LG 7kg Direct Drive machine. The cause of the bearing failure was the tub seal being warped. When turning the drum by hand I could hear the seal squeaking. The bearings were really really tight. First I used penetrating oil and a small chisel but they wouldn't budge. Then I used a 1/2 extension and a 1250 gram fist hammer. Only after I hit them as hard as I could for 20 minutes did they finally break loose. I was surprised that the plastic drum could take the force. I replaced them before on other machines and those bearings weren't even close to being this tight. So if you are going to do this job, don't be afraid to use A LOT of force. Just make sure you hit the outer ring of the bearing if you can. Anyways, your video was a big help since my washing machine is almost the same as the one in the video. Thanks.

  5. pounder46 says:

    Did my machine a couple of years ago following this video. Saved me a lot of money by not getting a repair business to fix it or buying another machine. The hardest part for me was dislodging the drum from the centre steel drum as well as the old bearings. Once you get past that, it's not too bad. The other thing to watch for is to make sure those plastic pins that hold the drum in place in the inside frame are pushed in ALL the way because if not, they will come off (especially the bottoms ones) and the drum will excessively wobble causing the bearings to fail earlier. Don't just push them in by hand, use a pair of multi-grips to get them all the way in.

  6. Giannis Fliatouras says:

    Excellent!!!is the right way many hello from Athens

  7. Cassi Pietz says:

    It sounds like the removal of the bearing is quite difficult. I saw that I could just buy a new rear drum with the new bearing already in. It does cost a little more but I am thinking it might be worth it?

  8. Ian Douglas says:

    In other words this should only be attempted by a professional or it may be just worth it to buy a new machine. Great video

  9. RagingWhiteman says:

    Great video. I will be doing this very soon on ours. Tub has some noise and tub play when you lift up on it.

  10. Enzo Sanchez says:

    Ty excelent video…!!! Muchas gracias

  11. Rekha D says:

    very well explained.Wires and testing of connection can be done only by a tech electrician.Yes as layperson without going to the workshop have watched it. The question I hv is why did my Whirlpool detergent tray get jammed. From the video I gather its the water pipe that could be the cause?

  12. Rekha D says:

    I wish your servce centre was in the Indian capital

  13. SUNDAR KUMAR says:

    Sir l am from India.
    Sir how to control manualy washing machine

  14. SUNDAR KUMAR says:

    How to operate fully automatic to manually thats machine

  15. Shoyab Khan says:

    Sir how can judge panel problem. Was indecater

  16. Marc Aube says:

    Hi just wondering how often the tub itself will require replacement as a result of bearing chewing or warping tub. Another comment mentioned to order tub with bearings installed.

  17. Ajuda aí, professor! says:

    How do I double like this video? lol

  18. Kate Moon says:

    It's so much fun watching someone do a job than doing it yourself. Gr8 video m8. I now know what I'm up against when the bearings get smoked.

  19. Duyy Nguyen says:

    Noisy dryer whirpool

  20. Liz C says:

    Thank you for the video! Was super helpful for the washer repair project!

  21. String999999 says:

    did you greased the seal ? or i see wrong? at 5:27

  22. Ello-Flanello says:

    I have nearly the same machine but the drum wont loose from the berings 🙁

  23. tanveer khan says:

    Best to use bearing removing kit I made on for my machine using allthread and large socket spanners it pushes the bearing square

  24. Clark Eugene says:

    Thank you for the inspiring step by step approach. I will keep the video on hold so I can run back and forth to view the progressive steps while engaged in this repair. I like a challenge, but I did not consider any attempt to repair the machine until I saw your method. I will order the parts before I begin because of the washer seeming to be in the first stages of this particular need (smoke& noise). We can still get an entire load cycled, sometimes without smoke even. I will consider it a success if I have "no" screws or parts left over at the conclusion.

  25. rekha kalidas says:

    If washing machine is making sounds while spinning . What will be the price to for replacing the bearing ?

  26. Muhammad Imran Khan says:

    Really nice job you have done its like a technical school to learn from here thanks alot for such fabulous video

  27. mago23 Gonzalez says:

    excelent video.thanks

  28. Kenneth Noronha says:

    Hello, I wish change the bearing on my Bosch Avanti XX, however when I removed the top cover ……on visual inspection the drum looked to be encased in a metal cylinder. How would one go about accessing the bearing in such a scenario? Thanks Ken

  29. Tom Mills says:

    Thanks, this video helped immensely.

  30. Luis Ace says:

    a couple of minute my eye

  31. surreyboy84 says:

    Might as well build a new washing machine.

  32. Bill Vincent says:

    Great video. Not the model I have, but it seems most direct drive front loaders are pretty similar. I was initially intimidated, but it wasn't all that bad! Wasn't the bearings, anyway. The spider was busted off. 🙁

  33. RAJ SV says:

    I just opened up my electrolux machine. I got tired trying to dislodge the jammed drive wheel from the back of the tub and so the bearings can't be removed. It just wont budge. Have set it for tomorrow. Hoping for success. TQ

  34. superteckmp says:

    well done video. Loved it. Very instructive.

  35. João Mota says:

    Hello from Portugal.
    Thank you for this very good video i`m going to do this on my machine.
    When i finish i let you know how it was.

  36. Robert Meier says:

    Great video! This helped a lot and saved me a bunch of time figuring out the steps as I went. Thanks! My driveshaft was so tight in the bearings that I had to use a 5lb sledge with full force for several, several, swings. A block of hardwood in between was absorbing too much of the impact and I ended up using a 1.5" diameter steel drift. The bearing came out relatively easy. Upon reassembly, I discovered I had damaged the spline a bit (flattened the end slightly) when I couldn't get the motor housing on. I had to 'touch up' the splines with a jewellery file. If anyone has the same issue with a tight driveshaft, make sure you only use hardwood or a brass drift!

  37. Alaa Aboelenean says:

    لماذا ما تطلبه لا يعرض

  38. Randy121360 says:

    I did ours. First thing I notice after getting the 2-1/2 year old failed bearings out was the word "Chinese" stamped on them! Replaced them with a nice new set of SKF and she's running great again.
    If you take on this task, plan it out so you can reassemble shortly afterwards so you don't forget how everything goes back together!
    It wasn't that hard, and the feeling of success you get afterward 🙂 Thank you for the video. Couldn't have done it without it!

  39. de max says:

    Thank you for this video. Well done, concise & to the point.

  40. Biswajit Maharana says:

    How could you descale the inner drum.

  41. Riaz Ahmed says:

    By the time it’s drum bearings are worn it’s other parts are destroyed too so what’s the point. None

  42. Joao Bastista Fereira says:


  43. 383 chevy says:

    TᕼEᖇE'ᔕ ᒪITEᖇᗩᒪᒪY TᕼOᑌᔕᗩᑎᗪᔕ Oᖴ washers

  44. EppingForest304 says:

    Very informative 👍

  45. John Burns says:

    Is this a similar procedure for a washer/dryer?

  46. URC says:

    I had a panic attack in the first 5 mins then I started to enjoy the vid as he was assembling all the parts back together . That’s when I realized i am calling in maintenance.
    Thanks for the vid 👏

  47. Мартин Иванов says:

    Try to model perla05

  48. MrTkeddo says:

    That will last 3 months and bearings will be shot again looking at the way he tapped those bearings in without a bearing pulling/seating kit .

  49. Roger Leadbeter says:

    Better off buying new or used washer

  50. Idris Dadhiwala says:

    My drum does not budge at all when tried manually..checked belt and motor both work fine…just had to quickly switch off as belt started smoking on motor end as non rotating drum meant no rotation just friction at motor end

  51. Charlie Tango says:

    Thanks for the Video. Learned one thing and one thing only, Do Not Bother.

  52. Andrew Hardy says:

    I replaced the bearings and seal in my wd11020d yesterday. This video was immensely helpful in the disassembly process. However I found it almost impossible to remove the drum shaft from the bearings. It definitely wasn't as easy as is shown in this video. I tried bashing on it with a hammer and some hardwood to protect the shaft to no luck. I then had to put the bolt back in the shaft and beat on that. It destroyed the bolt but I got a new one for a dollar at a fastener shop. The bearings put up some resistance also, I was able to get them out with the socket extension as suggested in the video. Bearing pullers would have made it a lot easier if you have them or can borrow them. All in all a very good video. It is very satisfying to fix your own stuff rather than chuck it out and get a new one, not to mention cheaper. Thanks

  53. EL NAYRUBY says:

    what a trained Technical

  54. BigBoldBeautifulWorld CanYouStayTrue says:

    A helpful guide but what a mammoth task….I needed a sit down after watching it.

  55. Hussam Hussamo says:

    Thanks a lot😘😘😘

  56. Jose Mari says:

    muchas gracias por el video

  57. Hashim Ibrar says:


  58. Jakeline Assunção says:


  59. irfan anvar says:

    This no job for average joe like me. U need a phd in engineeing for this

  60. Martin Garcia says:

    Saludos cordiales de Toluca estado de México y muy buenos los videos y la información gracias por la indicaciones abrazos y saludos

  61. hanar hanar says:

    very nice thanks for this video

  62. untaintedwheelchair says:

    YouTube is one of those places I visit when I wonder 'how complicated could [insert project/job] really be?'.
    Unfortunately those around me don't really promote confidence; they err on the side of caution on anything remotely foreign, complex and/or that involves some kind of risk.

  63. kiss peter says:

    Why do you need to replace the large rubber seal ?

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