How to Install Replace Front Wheel Hub Assembly All Vehicles! (Complete Guide)
How to Install Replace Front Wheel Hub Assembly All Vehicles! (Complete Guide)

Hi, I’m Mike from 1AAuto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30
years! We’re dedicated to delivering quality auto
parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction
guarantee. So visit us at, your trusted source
for quality auto parts. In this video, we’re going to give you a general
overview of how to replace a bolt-in style wheel bearing and hub assembly. While this vehicle may not be identical to
yours, the steps and procedures will be very similar, if not the same, on a wide variety
of aches and models. The only major differences will be the exact
hardware used and their torque specifications. This information can be found on a wide variety
of online resources to make sure your specific vehicle gets fixed right. If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more general overview repairs,
as well as specific installations for your make and model. If you need wheel bearings for your car, we
have a wide selection available from You can follow the link down in the description. Thanks for watching. If your vehicle has a center cap or a full
hubcap covering the lug nuts, hubcaps can be removed by grabbing and pulling, where
center caps usually need a screwdriver or a small pry bar. Pop them off the wheel. Before removing your wheel and tire or jacking
up the vehicle, loosen your axle nut or bolt in the center of the wheel with a breaker
bar and the appropriate socket. Occasionally, the axle nut will have a cotter
pin and lock cap in it. All you have to do is straighten out the tabs
on the cotter pin, remove the cotter pin and the lock cap so you can access your axle nut. When you go to put it back on, simply line
up that lock cap so the holes line up with the hole in the axle. Install a new cotter pin through the opening,
bend the legs over. Remove your lug nuts from the vehicle with
the appropriate socket and a breaker bar. Make sure the tire is still on the ground
at this point to prevent it from spinning when you go to remove the nuts. Just crack them loose one turn. This’ll keep the wheel from falling off, but
allow us to easily remove it once the pressure is off the car. If you have a wheel lock key, insert it into
a lock lug if you have one. Loosen that up the same way. Raise and support your vehicle. We’re using a lift in the shop, but if you’re
doing this at home, it can easily be done with a jack and jack stands. If you’re not sure on where to lift your vehicle,
you can check a variety of online resources or the owner’s manual in your vehicle if you
still have one. Since we’ve already cracked our lug nuts loose,
you should be able to just spin them off by hand once the vehicle’s raised and supported. Make sure when removing the last lug you keep
a hand on the wheel and tire, then remove them and set it off to the side. Remove the two bolts on the back of the caliper. These are usually a regular hex bolt, but
occasionally they’re an Allen key with a little rubber cap you’ll have to pop off to access
them. You may need a screwdriver or a small pry
bar to free the caliper from the pads. Then, using a zip tie, a bungee cord, or some
mechanics wire, go ahead and secure the caliper up and out of the way so it doesn’t get damaged
while we finish our repair. Remove the pads. You may have to pop them out with a flat blade
screwdriver if they’re stuck in there. Remove the two bolts on the back of the spindle,
securing the caliper bracket. Make sure that both are cracked loose before
removing either one fully. Once the bolt is out, remove the caliper bracket
from the spindle. Some rotors may have a Phillips-head or torque
screw securing the rotor to the hub. Remove that if necessary, and if your rotor
is frozen to the hub from rust and corrosion, tap it on the face of the rotor. You can hit the outer edge if you’re not reusing
the rotor. If you are, tap between the studs, free up
the rust, and remove the rotor from the hub. Finish removing your axle nut by hand or axle
bolt on some vehicles. Once this has been removed, there’s usually
a small hole in the center here. We’ll place a punch in that hole. Just tap the axle to release it from the splines
inside of the hub. Normally there are a few bolts, in this case
three, securing the hub onto the spindle. These bolts can be accessed from the back
with either a socket and ratchet or a wrench if it’s tight. Place a drain bucket or some cardboard or
paper towels underneath the hub, and spray the backside of the bolts with some penetrating
oil. Give that a little bit to soak in. Double check that your axle is released from
the hub. Using a chisel, we’re going to wedge between
the hub and the spindle. Once it starts coming out, we’ll keep tapping
that axle to make sure it’s releasing from the splines. On this particular vehicle, we can now access
the ABS sensor, which we’ll have to remove before our hub can finish coming out. We could have removed this dust shield to
access our ABS sensor more easily. However, the bolts are very corroded, and
we didn’t want to risk breaking anything, so we’ll remove the bolt securing our sensor
into the hub. This is usually just one bolt. Be very careful with these. If we’re replacing our hub, it’s not as big
of a deal if this bolt breaks. We can always replace it with another one. However, we do want to be careful not to break
our sensor while removing it. I find the easiest way to remove these sensors
is to grab them with a pair of pliers, simply twist them back and forth while carefully
pulling out. Once it’s released, we’ll hold it out of the
way and remove our hub from the vehicle. Reinstall the hub onto the axle. If you had an ABS sensor, reinstall that into
the hub as well, along with the bolt. Tighten that bolt down. Now, I find it’s easiest to realign the hub
by sending the bolts through partway. Then, without fully installing the hub, you
can just get a couple of threads started on each one by hand. Once you have them all started and lined up,
you can tighten down all of your bolts. Reinstall your axle nut or axle bolt, and
get it on as tight as you can by hand. Reinstall your rotor and rotor screw if necessary. If your vehicle doesn’t have a rotor screw,
to make it easier, press your rotor in flat, and using some washers or an old axle nut
works perfect. Install a lug nut by hand as tight as you
can into that axle nut. This’ll keep the rotor upright while we reinstall
the rest of our parts, making it that much easier. Reinstall the caliper bracket and the two
bolts that secure it. Start both bolts by hand, then tighten them
down with the appropriate socket and ratchet. Install your brake pads and apply a thin coat
of grease to the backside of them. Release your caliper from whatever you used
to secure it out of the way. Using a large pair of groovelock pliers, carefully
compress each piston one side at a time, going nice and slow so you don’t push the other
piston out in the process. You may have to go back and forth a couple
of times if you have dual piston calipers like these. Once it’s fully compressed, slide it back
over the pads, push the pins in to allow the caliper back into place, reinstall your hardware. Once they’re in by hand, go ahead and tighten
them down with the appropriate socket and ratchet. If you’ve used the axle nut and lug nut trick
to secure your rotor, go ahead and remove that now. Reinstall your wheel and tire. Reinstall your lug nuts as tight as you can
by hand. Now you’re all set to lower your vehicle. Tighten your lug nuts and then torque them
to spec in a cross pattern. If you don’t know what this torque spec is,
you may be able to find it in your owner’s manual or in a variety of online resources. Once you’ve got your wheel and tire back on
the ground and all your lug nuts are tight, torque your axle nut, which you can use the
same resources to locate. Once you’re done, simply pop on your center
cap or hubcap. Make sure you pump your brakes until you get
a nice firm pedal back to allow that compressed caliper to seat before moving the vehicle. Thanks for watching. Visit us at for quality auto parts,
fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

48 thoughts on “How to Install Replace Front Wheel Hub Assembly All Vehicles! (Complete Guide)”

  1. Israel Cruz says:

    I want to become an automotive mechanic, any tips on what should I start doing to become one?

  2. johnny0seven says:

    Very thorough

  3. Daniel Son says:

    Great vid, did anyone notice that there was a leak coming from the brake line when he was playing with the brake caliper. wouldn't that be something to fix while the tire is off. hopefully he fixed it before he finished.

  4. Yer Vang says:

    great yur video now i can easily install my new hub assembly with the big help of yur video…thanks again..

  5. MrTORISSIMO says:

    I found this to be one of the clearest, simple and detailed mechanic video and this process seems to be a lot simpler than to change the bearing which rthe current issue Iam having. This requires a lot less work it seems and buying the whole hub isn't that much more expensive… In any case Thanks for the quality you put into this, its great marketing also 😉

  6. Jaspal singh says:

    thanx for teaching

  7. Mike Pappas says:

    No use of a torque wrench? Also don't think it's a good idea to tighten your lug nuts with the full weight of the vehicle on your wheel

  8. Ayodele David Akinpelu says:

    Good video except the case that the hub almost never comes of that easy, especially if you live in the midwest/ where they salt the roads heavily in winter. The driver side hub took at least 4 days and I used a chisel, acetone, doused it in penetrating oil, rust inhibitor gel/ several mind blowing whacks with a heavy duty mallet and finally listening to some angry music the hub came off as i deformed the face of the hub ; didn't matter as I already had the new one. So that whole trick of tapping with a chisel is hogwash. I'm a back yard mechanic and have been that for 13 years. So put or verbally state that this may vary from vehicle to vehicle, as I drive a 2009 malibu and removing both front wheel hubs was hell!

  9. Simple Living says:

    Is it easier to just remove the whole caliper and rotor at the same time as one unit? Nice and easy vid to follow as always.

  10. George Pelosi says:

    That won't work on the Mazda Tribute Ford Escape Mariner, They have press-in Hubs and bearings, and are a LOT more work than these easy bolt on hubs.

  11. Jose Jacobs says:

    Hello there, would you be able to send me some pics about the 2013 honda accord wheel bearing and hub assembly my email, [email protected] also prices front and rear thanks

  12. Bryon Tellier says:

    definitely appreciate this video man you couldn't of explained this process any better! thank you and teach me more0

  13. Crazy Candy Crush says:

    Does the abs sensor also controls the odometer reading? Anyone, thanks.

  14. Mac D says:

    Will this work on the front bearing for a honda civic 2008 model?

  15. THUNDERBIRD!! says:

    That was simple brake & caliper removal but try that with a Toyota 4runner!It has guide pins for the caliper&pads and an anti-rattle pin. It took me awhile the first tire & second one about 7-8 min.. Lol

  16. Johno Vegas says:

    Clean the pins? with silicone grease?

  17. Cartoon Guy says:

    very easy watching and listening.

  18. MAD PEOPLE THINGz says:

    Great video, but did he put the pin back?

  19. Glenn Gutenberg says:

    Finally a video that just shows hub replacement instead of taking apart the whole suspension assembly

  20. Glenn Gutenberg says:

    Why is it that so many videos show either only bearing replacement or involve disconnecting the spindle and knuckle when clearly all of that is unnecessary. Or is that only true on something vehicles?

  21. YHN MRNFF says:

    How about a video. That the hub has no bolts ? Please more like 1993 Honda civic front.

  22. arvind bhatia says:


  23. Antoinette Hicks says:

    Damn good video

  24. William Slater says:

    Excellent video, The only thing that would make it easier for me would be to have this guy come over with the lift and do it with me …. very good .. Thank you

  25. DOS UNO says:

    I need new front bearings on a 2005 sienna and was wondering should I buy new hub or use the old ones?

  26. TopFunny VineS says:

    Thank u for ur video.its helped a lot 🙂

  27. Anukun Kanphian says:

    Does groovelock pliers damage the piston when you compressing it in? im just asking. Normally there is a special tool for.

  28. John Smith says:

    why did you not install a new part ? i dont understand the reason for that actually surprised it went that easy with all the rust on there

  29. Douglas Sadowski says:

    Do you have to put any type of grease on the spindle before installing the new hub assembly

  30. Marc Be Hoopin says:

    I like how they use a vehicles that have rusty parts versus brand new

  31. Mohammed Imran says:


  32. Joyson Wildhart says:

    great video. very clear.

  33. Newer Account says:

    Scary to think someone about to do this may not know how to pop a hub cap

  34. Newer Account says:

    Caliper piston reset I always use a pad and C-clamp ALWAYS TOO HARD FOR PLIERS… wonder if I been doing something wrong

  35. Danny Ocampo says:

    this is the best way to replace the front wheel hub assembly much easier than just the bearing only I did learned something from this video .

  36. Nestor Barretpo says:

    Excellent information Sir 👍!

  37. Saimir Gjoni says:

    Very good job thank you so much for the video save some money for car service

  38. OPT PR says:

    Thank you

  39. 1EVL12A BOOSTED says:

    Hey guys had a quick question when replacing the wheel hub do u also have to install a new bearing with it or leaving the old one is ok if u have no problems with it? For a 2009 civic lx sedan

  40. Ha' MOODY says:

    Good job simple way excellent results

  41. E. Jones says:

    Very good n clear directions!

  42. Honzik Zemanu says:

    is any thread locker to be used on the axle nut that you put back on as final step?

  43. John Wood says:

    Superb video

  44. DrFillyBlunt says:

    Is it appropriate to grease any surfaces or open the bleeder when compressing the caliper piston? I've heard closing the piston with it closed can send dirty fluid back up into the system, is this true?

  45. wnwill says:

    Very simply video and easy to follow but can I apply this procedure on my 2014 Ford escape FWD…reason I asked is because I'm trying to buy a front wheel hub assembly for this car but all I see is this, "Rear FWD wheel hub assembly", on a competitor site. I got confused. So is this for front wheel assembly when I see this?

  46. Mikey Meatball says:

    Rev up your blue loctite!

    Great video

  47. Sean Francis says:

    Excellent vid. Thanks!!

  48. Robert Sand says:

    I'd use a puller instead of a chisel… Can be rented from auto parts stores for free

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