How to Repair a Ducati Stuck in Gear & Install Selector Mechanism Upgrade Kit SVC-09-009
How to Repair a Ducati Stuck in Gear & Install Selector Mechanism Upgrade Kit SVC-09-009

Welcome back to Track848. Today, we’re going
to install a Ducati gear selector upgrade kit. But first, I’m going to show you how
easy it is to fix a mis-aligned shift mechanism. I started this project off-camera by removing
the fairings and draining the oil and coolant. Now we can remove the shift rod, clutch slave (make sure you don’t lose the o-ring), and the clutch push rod. Next up is the front sprocket cover; And you may or may not have one of these. It’s a
case saver and I highly recommend one of these to protect your engine in case if your chain
breaks. There’s three coolant hoses that need to
be removed; I’m going to remove two now, and I’ll show you the third one in just
a minute… Now we can go ahead and loosen up all of the
bolts around the alternator side cover. There’s 13 total, and a couple are hidden as you can
see here. These bolts are not all the same size, so
be sure to keep track as you remove them. Disconnect the wiring connector from the main
wiring loom. And remove the last coolant hose…
Now we can go ahead and remove the inspection cover; take note of the o-ring…
And, we get to use our first special tool on this project; this is the alternator cover
puller. Snug it down and then slowly turn in the handle. A little oil that will drop
out of the bottom, but that’s okay. You can see how this tool works… And that’s it! We have access to the left side of our engine!
Stick a rag here, to prevent any debris from falling through the hole in to the crankcsase.
If your shift mechanism is locked up, loosen these two bolts and you should be able to
push on it to free it up. It’ll move like this once it’s free.
Clean the bolts, apply medium strength threadlocker, realign the mechanism and torque it down to
the specs outlined in the next segment of this video… If you want to install the upgrade kit, here’s the Service Bulletin and kit part numbers.
The flywheel has to be removed, so this becomes a little more involved at this point.
This is the Ducati special tool that holds the flywheel in place while the nut is being
removed—or reinstalled. Your gonna need a long breaker bar or an impact
wrench capable of breaking this nut loose. Remove the nut, and the Bellville washer…
And, at this point we can go ahead and remove the flywheel and the attached driven gear
from the crankshaft. This is the roller cage assembly; and this
is the thrust washer, take note of this because I’m going to show you an important tip when
we put everthing back together. For now, just set it off to the side. We can now remove the shift mechanism from the engine by removing these two bolts. To
get this out, push it forward—then up—and the shift mechanism will pull straight out
of the engine case. Let’s take this over to the bench where
we can install the Ducati upgrade kit, which consists of two new bolts, a spring, a plate
and a C clip. This really is an easy upgrade, but it takes
a lot longer to get in here than it does to actually do the upgrade. Take special note here: The replacement spring that comes in the kit, has to go back on with
the same exact orientation as the one we just removed. If you get this wrong, your shift
mechanism WILL NOT WORK. This clip snaps back in place by hand… And now, if you have some calipers handy, you can check to ensure that the unit is within
factory spec, per the Service Bulletin. And you can see my measurements here, it looks
good… this is still within spec, so let’s go over and put it back on the bike. I’m using medium strength threadlocker; Snug these down and then get the mechanism
in place, then tighten the bolts so it doesn’t move. This is where you want it; the notch
centered on the top pin with the bike in neutral. Once it’s there, torque down the bolts to
these specs. It took quite a bit of work to get here, so
it’s a good idea to complete a shift test before putting the bike back together.
It wouldn’t be a very good day if you found out afterwards that it doesn’t shift properly! Now it’s time to have some fun! we have to do some cleaning! We have to go around
the entire perimeter where the alternator cover rests on the case and remove all of
the old liquid gasket. And we need to do the same thing for the cover. I like to pull off
the big pieces by hand, and then I take a soft wire brush to clean the surface. Use a clean rag to wipe it down. This is important: apply a few dabs of grease
to hold the thrust washer in place, and we’re ready to put everything back together!
Make sure these notches on the crankshaft are lined up with the notch, here, on the
flywheel. It slips straight on. Use a small mirror to ensure the thrust washer
did not slip down out of place. The Bellville washer is tapered, so make sure
you get it on right; apply some red, high-strength threadlocker and then tighten the nut down
to 330 Nm. Apply a continuous bead of liquid gasket to
the cover mating surfaces… Make sure this shaft –on the water pump—is
lined up properly with this; do a dry run before you apply the liquid gasket.
And here’s another tip: Use two M6X1 threaded rods to help guide the cover back on; It makes
the re-fitting process much easier! Now we can button back up, basically reverse
order from the way we took everything off. Make sure you get all of the wires and connectors
on the right side of the coolant hoses. Tighten the hoses down and use threadlocker
on these bolts, and the remaining bolts; Apply some grease on this o-ring, as well as the clutch push rod o-rings. Walk the clutch slave bolts in, then torque
down using a 1-2-3-1 pattern. Don’t forget to add oil and coolant, and
that’s it! We’re finished! I have more videos over at my YouTube Channel
“Track848,” and if you’d like to receive a notification when I upload new videos, go
ahead and click on the subscribe button at the top of this page. Leave your comments
below; And, if you like this video, give me a thumbs-up, I appreciate the feedback.
Thanks again, I’ll see you the next time! Goodbye.

46 thoughts on “How to Repair a Ducati Stuck in Gear & Install Selector Mechanism Upgrade Kit SVC-09-009”

  1. Track848 says:

    Very detailed, step-by-step video on how to fix your Ducati shift mechanism…

  2. Bobby noneya says:

    another fine job on the Vid thax for vid and kit number

  3. kingfondler1 says:

    Good on ya for making this vid! I recently struggled through this on my Duc, and she has never shifted better!

  4. Doug Burkholder says:

    Great video! I've had my shifter stuck and 'fixed' twice by the dealer too. This is on my to-do list for the winter. Thanks for the great instructions!

  5. Dominique Santos says:

    Thanks for this video! My 848's shifter is currently stuck right now. I will try this as soon as i get the upgrade parts and tools.
    Do you have part numbers / links to the puller and the flywheel tool?

  6. Paweł Kaczyna says:

    Great stuff!

  7. cadyspen says:

    Man are you patient! No wonder the mechanics earn money. Thanks for the relaxing detailed videos! Awesome!

  8. John McCartan says:

    Thanks very much for this video and your other one on the removal of the side case where you had the bearing issue.

    Are there any rules/tips for applying the liquid gasket – i.e. the exact route taken around the profile, which holes to loop around and which to ignore?

  9. Alexander Ramsawak says:

    What kind of grease do you use

  10. imperiumdx says:

    How many hours labour would be fair to be charged for this?

  11. allan cervantes says:

    do you have a step by step video on how to change the stator and rectifier?
    with all tools/parts needed?

  12. Phil Dixon says:

    Excellent video, one that should be a model for other YouTube how-to publishers. This exact problem has befallen my 848 (track only), and this video would be my guide if I were to make the repair in my own garage.

  13. Kyle Gardner says:

    thanks for this awesome video i love it, no drawn out talks, or shakey video, and your very knowlegable.

  14. Kyle Gardner says:

    where did you get those special tools to pull the crank case off ?

  15. Gary D says:

    this video was very helpful, i would not have attempted this repair without seeing this. unfortunately i still have the problem. Upshifts are perfect, downshifts from 6th to 4th are not working properly. i even used the special tool to align the fork. I think the fork isn't completing its full range from top gear. The shift lever bottoms out and i have to tap it up to complete the downshift. I even replace the heavier spring and the stop plate. Any suggestions??

  16. Phil Banks says:

    BE WARNED –ignore the torque settings for the selector plate and the crankshaft nut. 34nm-38 is far too high for the 6mm bolt and will strip the threads . Likewise the 15nm for the 5mm one, and 330nm for the crankshaft nut. 10nm for the 5mm & 6mm is sufficient.

  17. Ryan C says:

    Great video/instruction… ALL PRO!
    I have a question regarding the flywheel nut. The shop manual for my 2000 ST4 states "once removed, the Flywheel Fixing Nut should never be reused". I just bought one when I replaced the stater due to said nut loosening up. Do I have to cough up more $$$ now that I have to get to the shifter spring? It weren't a cheap nut.

  18. c10seth says:

    Thank you very much for the quality, detailed video. I also very much appreciate the tools and materials list. Keep up the good work and keep the shiny side up! 🙂

  19. Desmobrain says:

    Awesome content once again! Though mine is not locked, I want to check (and re-adjust if necessary), just to be sure.

    OP, would you say the upgrade kit makes a big difference?

  20. Stephen Villagrasa says:

    Did you drain the oil to do this?

  21. jeffmetaldemonz says:

    Nice vid, the threaded rod is a good idea too

  22. Paul Mason says:

    This is a great video, very helpful even for replacing the lower spring on my M796. The torque values stated are IAW the workshop manual so I wouldn't want to deviate from this despite an earlier comment. Thanks

  23. Don Walker says:

    Fantastic video.

  24. Carlos Zepeda says:

    first off, big fan, seen your knowledge around the forums…just wondering if you saw the service bulletin and used the torque specs that it recommended for the M8 and M6 screws for the stopper plate or used the torque specs from the manual? I know the specs from my manual on my 696 are 25 and 10 nm compared to the 34 and 15 nm stated on
    the bulletin…

  25. David Doyle says:

    Great video! I'm trying to attempt it myself on my wife's 1098. But, I'm stuck. I purchased the shifter spring upgrade kit, easily put the new spring on the linkage, but the upper fork part of the linkage doesn't seem to want to go behind the shifter drum/wheel. I can gently force it into the correct position, but when I test it, and try to change gears, the upper part of the shift fork pops out from behind the shifter drum/wheel. Also, the moment I very gently snug the two bolts which holds the whole shift mechanism in place, the entire shift linkage gets very very tight, and will not move freely.

    She low sided the bike on the left side, and during impact with the ground, the gear shift foot lever got pushed too far, and that somehow broke the shifter spring. The linkage doesn't look bent or damaged, but one of the gears had some grinding, probably from the jammed shifter lever, and will need to be replaced. Any thoughts? I'm guessing I'm trying to put it together the wrong way. I was careful to get the spring orientation correct. I tried changing it around, since you made a comment about possibly getting it wrong, but any other way doesn't fit right, so I'm fairly confident the spring is on there correctly.

  26. lonewolf36s says:

    wow thank you so much. PRECISELY what I needed. Ordering parts and tools now, hopefully I can do this myself. The nearest dealer is about 500 miles away, and wasn't planning any road trips in a rental truck.

  27. charlie ryan says:

    Thanks for another informative video

  28. Hung Phan says:

    thank you, great video, I fixed my gear stuck issue.

  29. Patrick Ronan says:

    I had actually just done this repair/adjustment on a Ducati 996 and it's always interesting how many similarities there are.

  30. oZ_LiiberTy says:

    do you realy need the flywheel holder ?

  31. Polin Ese says:

    Hello, I had a hit on the gear lever and it has become hard, I can not engage any gear, I'm stuck, the problem is similar to the one you're repairing?

  32. jameswillis22 says:

    Hey buddy, good video. I found my way here because i have a 1999 Ducati 750 supersport and every now and then it won't engage into gear properly, usually at high revs. I also get an audible pop, sounds like a quite backfire but doesn't sound like its coming from the exhaust, any ideas greatly appreciated, cheers

  33. Whiteman Eric says:

    this is enlightening  I thought I would be splitting the case   cross my fingers

  34. Millsbritish4x4 says:

    As technical trainer for Caterpillar, my professional opinion is that these vids are some of the best, engaging content and well edited… great work

  35. Anthony Johnston says:

    Thanks for the Vid, very easy to follow. I fixed the problem with ease and saved me $$$. Thanks

  36. sejhan memedoski says:

    Do you have Video on a Panigale 1199 to change the gear sensor? Do i have to learn the bike the gearing when i changed the sensor?

  37. Koomavideo says:

    Thank you! Very very good video!

  38. Martin Vedej says:

    Thanks for this great video. My SF got stuck on gear 3 a few times over the past two weeks, but it returned to functional state somehow. Yesterday, when downgearing, it felt like sthing broke inside when shifting down to 2 and that was it. The shift mechanism or the spring probably fell apart, as it sounds like it is now touching the flywheel cog when I started the engine or when I pushed the bike. I hope nothing got damaged inside.

  39. K!7mu4Ra8 YuDu!CaChiTiRo says:

    great help with this video!

  40. lessdeth69 says:

    Why do you have to remove the thrust washer?

  41. Triggerman1820 says:

    My 848 evo is having trouble shifting into 3rd when pulling the clutch, however, it seems to work better when i am using the quick shifter. Will this upgrade eliminate this problem?

  42. Stephan Bozic says:

    Great video! I have a Testastretta engine and I have changed both of the springs on the gear selector. The gearing works fine until I put the engine case on and tighten the bolts. When I then try to put the bike in gear the shift lever jams and does not spring back? Any suggestions, ( I don't have any oil in the engine )

  43. C. Deforrest says:

    Thanks for the video. Hopefully I can get by with just the adjustment. What boggles my mind is they made this motor for 20 years before coming out with a fix? The bulletin says 'All 2V/4V motors', and my 1999 M750 at 35k mi definitely has the problem. Was SVC-09-009 the first acknowledgement that this was a problem?

  44. jasonsong86 says:

    So much work on such small part. Stupid Ducati. Mine broke as I found out when I was changing oil. Weirdly the shifter is still working fine and returning to the center.

  45. Tim Janzen says:

    Great Video!

  46. sugarfree1985 says:

    The "boats" 😂👍🏻

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *