Welcome back to Track848. Today, we’re going
to install a Ducati gear selector upgrade kit. But first, I’m going to show you how
easy it is to fix a mis-aligned shift mechanism. I started this project off-camera by removing
the fairings and draining the oil and coolant. Now we can remove the shift rod, clutch slave (make sure you don’t lose the o-ring), and the clutch push rod. Next up is the front sprocket cover; And you may or may not have one of these. It’s a
case saver and I highly recommend one of these to protect your engine in case if your chain
breaks. There’s three coolant hoses that need to
be removed; I’m going to remove two now, and I’ll show you the third one in just
a minute… Now we can go ahead and loosen up all of the
bolts around the alternator side cover. There’s 13 total, and a couple are hidden as you can
see here. These bolts are not all the same size, so
be sure to keep track as you remove them. Disconnect the wiring connector from the main
wiring loom. And remove the last coolant hose…
Now we can go ahead and remove the inspection cover; take note of the o-ring…
And, we get to use our first special tool on this project; this is the alternator cover
puller. Snug it down and then slowly turn in the handle. A little oil that will drop
out of the bottom, but that’s okay. You can see how this tool works… And that’s it! We have access to the left side of our engine!
Stick a rag here, to prevent any debris from falling through the hole in to the crankcsase.
If your shift mechanism is locked up, loosen these two bolts and you should be able to
push on it to free it up. It’ll move like this once it’s free.
Clean the bolts, apply medium strength threadlocker, realign the mechanism and torque it down to
the specs outlined in the next segment of this video… If you want to install the upgrade kit, here’s the Service Bulletin and kit part numbers.
The flywheel has to be removed, so this becomes a little more involved at this point.
This is the Ducati special tool that holds the flywheel in place while the nut is being
removed—or reinstalled. Your gonna need a long breaker bar or an impact
wrench capable of breaking this nut loose. Remove the nut, and the Bellville washer…
And, at this point we can go ahead and remove the flywheel and the attached driven gear
from the crankshaft. This is the roller cage assembly; and this
is the thrust washer, take note of this because I’m going to show you an important tip when
we put everthing back together. For now, just set it off to the side. We can now remove the shift mechanism from the engine by removing these two bolts. To
get this out, push it forward—then up—and the shift mechanism will pull straight out
of the engine case. Let’s take this over to the bench where
we can install the Ducati upgrade kit, which consists of two new bolts, a spring, a plate
and a C clip. This really is an easy upgrade, but it takes
a lot longer to get in here than it does to actually do the upgrade. Take special note here: The replacement spring that comes in the kit, has to go back on with
the same exact orientation as the one we just removed. If you get this wrong, your shift
mechanism WILL NOT WORK. This clip snaps back in place by hand… And now, if you have some calipers handy, you can check to ensure that the unit is within
factory spec, per the Service Bulletin. And you can see my measurements here, it looks
good… this is still within spec, so let’s go over and put it back on the bike. I’m using medium strength threadlocker; Snug these down and then get the mechanism
in place, then tighten the bolts so it doesn’t move. This is where you want it; the notch
centered on the top pin with the bike in neutral. Once it’s there, torque down the bolts to
these specs. It took quite a bit of work to get here, so
it’s a good idea to complete a shift test before putting the bike back together.
It wouldn’t be a very good day if you found out afterwards that it doesn’t shift properly! Now it’s time to have some fun! we have to do some cleaning! We have to go around
the entire perimeter where the alternator cover rests on the case and remove all of
the old liquid gasket. And we need to do the same thing for the cover. I like to pull off
the big pieces by hand, and then I take a soft wire brush to clean the surface. Use a clean rag to wipe it down. This is important: apply a few dabs of grease
to hold the thrust washer in place, and we’re ready to put everything back together!
Make sure these notches on the crankshaft are lined up with the notch, here, on the
flywheel. It slips straight on. Use a small mirror to ensure the thrust washer
did not slip down out of place. The Bellville washer is tapered, so make sure
you get it on right; apply some red, high-strength threadlocker and then tighten the nut down
to 330 Nm. Apply a continuous bead of liquid gasket to
the cover mating surfaces… Make sure this shaft –on the water pump—is
lined up properly with this; do a dry run before you apply the liquid gasket.
And here’s another tip: Use two M6X1 threaded rods to help guide the cover back on; It makes
the re-fitting process much easier! Now we can button back up, basically reverse
order from the way we took everything off. Make sure you get all of the wires and connectors
on the right side of the coolant hoses. Tighten the hoses down and use threadlocker
on these bolts, and the remaining bolts; Apply some grease on this o-ring, as well as the clutch push rod o-rings. Walk the clutch slave bolts in, then torque
down using a 1-2-3-1 pattern. Don’t forget to add oil and coolant, and
that’s it! We’re finished! I have more videos over at my YouTube Channel
“Track848,” and if you’d like to receive a notification when I upload new videos, go
ahead and click on the subscribe button at the top of this page. Leave your comments
below; And, if you like this video, give me a thumbs-up, I appreciate the feedback.
Thanks again, I’ll see you the next time! Goodbye.