How to Replace Control Arm 01-05 Honda Civic (Not Hatchback)
How to Replace Control Arm 01-05 Honda Civic (Not Hatchback)

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for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and
next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of Thanks! In this video, we’re going to show you how
to replace the lower control arm on the front of this 2003 Honda Civic, same for 2001 to
2005. We show you the driver side, but the passenger
side is the same procedure. You’ll need a new control arm from,
and if you’re going to replace one side, you might as well replace both. We do sell them as a pair. 12 to 22 millimeter sockets and wrenches with
ratchets and extensions, 5 millimeter hex socket, flat-blade screwdriver, large size,
breaker bar or tire iron, flex joint, hammer with a small, large, and a rubber mallet,
pry bar, locking and needle-nose pliers, jack and jack stands, wire brush, penetrating oil,
and we needed a reciprocating saw on ours, because we ran into an issue with the stabilizer
link. You may or may not need that for yours. Remove the front wheel, held on by four 19
millimeter lug nuts. If you have a different style hubcap, you’ll
need to remove that, but just use a breaker bar or your tire iron, and just loosen the
lug nuts while the tire is on the ground. Now raise and support the vehicle. Now remove the lug nuts the rest of the way,
and the wheel and tire. For this repair, you want to make sure that
you have your vehicle level. You need to support, you need to raise up
the front of the vehicle and support both sides. You can turn the wheel and your link is right
here. First thing we’re going to do is just use
a wire brush and some penetrating oil and try to clean off these threads as much as
we can to make it easier to get it apart. 14 millimeter wrench, put it on here and turn
counterclockwise. Looks like this is already spinning, so use
a 5 millimeter hex socket. Ideally, at this point, the nut to the lower
stabilizer link comes off, and you can just separate the stabilizer link from the control
arm. Ours was much more difficult, and we wound
up having to cut it off, and then we ended up replacing the whole stabilizer link. If you do that, we do sell the stabilizer
link at 1A Auto as well. Lower control arm is held on. There’s a nut here. You have to remove a cotter pin, and then
there’s a bolt here and a bolt up through here. We’ll start by removing the cotter pin here. This is the pin, you just grab ahold of the
side, pull it out, and then pull the pin out. To remove this lower ball joint nut, it’s
17 millimeter. Just remove it that much for now. 19 millimeter wrench, put it on, then use
a bigger, I’m using a 20 millimeter wrench. Lock it in to give myself a little extra leverage. That one loosened up, loosen this one up,
and, again, it’s a 19 millimeter. Now I’m just going to loosen these bolts up
until they’re about ready to come out. Just going to try and break the ball joint
free, and usually a few good hits from a good sized hammer does the job. We’re free here, the bolts are ready to come
out. Leave that one out, should be able to kind
of move it around, sometimes you might hit it a little bit, but line it up. This bolt’ll come out. Okay, remove this nut the rest of the way. Original part from the vehicle, and the rubber
bushing in this one is pretty dried out and cracked. The part from 1A Auto, exactly the same, it’s
going to go in there, obviously brand new bushings. All the right mounting points, fix you up. Reinstall, kind of up into place. Ball joint on, and just put your nut on. Push it into place to make sure the font mount
is going in, and then push the rear mount in. I stick my body against the rotor, lift up,
and lock your bolt in place. We’ve got our ball joint and nut on, we’ve
got that, the rear bolt in, so we’ve just got to get this one. We’ll try using a rubber mallet at first,
just so we don’t harm our new finish. Then once you get it in, lock it so you can
get the bolt in. You can take a long screwdriver and pull on
it, try and get it lined up so the bolt will go right up and in through. Sometimes you’ll have to push on it here to
get the bolt all the way in. Now we’re going to tighten up the 19 millimeter
bolts preliminarily. In order to hold the ball joint in place while
you tighten it up, you’ll want to use a jack, lift the control arm up into place a little
bit. Tap the control arm, get the knuckle to sit
down in. Tighten this to 43 foot-pounds. Try to put your pin in, if necessary, tighten
a little further to open up the hole. Need to tap it over here. Okay, in order to tighten the two 19 millimeter
bolts, you want to simulate ride position, so support the suspension. Get that jacked up so the weight’s just off
the lift, and we’re going to torque these to 61 foot-pounds. Used a couple extra pounds, because I had
a flex joint on that one. Reconnect your stabilizer link. Again, we sell new ones at Put the nut on and tighten it up. It’s easy enough to get a torque wrench on
this one, but getting a torque wrench on the inner one is pretty difficult. Put your wheel back in place. Start your lug nuts, we’ll tighten them preliminarily,
and then torque them when the vehicle is back down on the ground. Tighten your lug nuts 80 foot-pounds, and
just cross in the pattern. Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please
visit Also check out our other helpful how-to and
diagnosis videos.

19 thoughts on “How to Replace Control Arm 01-05 Honda Civic (Not Hatchback)”

  1. pedrogonzalez1829 says:

    Do you think this job is still doable if you do not have access to a lift?

  2. Jesse L says:

    Really surprised you didn't have the hand brake on.

  3. Phillip Taylor says:

    1A Auto makes great videos! I am about to possibly start buying parts from them to see how well they do.

  4. Frank James says:

    Today i got new ball joints and the mechanic brought me over to see the lower control arm passnager side and he showed me it slipped down hanging there ..he said i need a new arm but why cant i just change the middle bushing

  5. TubeRippa says:

    Where did you place the jack when you simulated driving conditions in order to torque the 19mm bolts? Also How high do you need to lift it prior to torquing?

  6. jsproat52 says:

    How much does this cost at a shop compared to buying all the tools nessecary to do the job yourself?

  7. Juan C says:

    My bolt is turning with the rubber and I can't get it out, any ideas how to get it out?

  8. Epidemic - illen spree says:

    Why didn’t you also replace the ball joints? I need to do this but I also need the ball joints replaced and I thought the control arms come with a ball joint in them already?

  9. Eli C says:

    thank you, best video for what i needed to do!

  10. Jc Chua says:

    Hi mike! How many foot pounds is the stabilizer link when you torque them?

  11. Javi Aguilera says:

    Would you happen to have a DIY for an 09 si coupe ? Thatd be very helpful or are they similar to these models ?

  12. Richard Loayza says:

    Is this the same for a 2002 acura rsx base model?

  13. Jones 0 says:

    So I got the back bolts out and now the arm is hanging from the ball joint

    I don't have a good size hammer what do I do

    It's 8:49 pm mosquitoes are out!!!

  14. Jones 0 says:

    Oh nevermind… My puny hammer did it

  15. Jones 0 says:

    S I'm doing the driver side now… And it won't free from the ball joint

  16. Allan Neymark says:

    Good video, except for the part about loosening the ball joint. I hit it with a big hammer several times, as suggested. But it wouldn't budge. Ended up renting a screw type ball joint separator from an auto parts store. That did it in about a minute. Worked in my driveway, with jack stands; that was OK. The rear bolt on the passenger side arm was tricky, as the steering box is in the way.

  17. tracy mcelhenie says:

    excellent video . helped a tone .

  18. jack meoff says:

    My lower control arm bushings are all shot on my 02 Civic, I was wondering if it’s worth going through each bushing and changing them out or would I be better off replacing the whole lower control arm?

  19. Omar Chisolm says:

    always good videos. most of the suspension work i did so far was done with the help of these guys. got my rear shocks from 1Aauto and will get to that 2morro. ✌

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