How to Replace Control Arm 99-09 Volkswagen Jetta
How to Replace Control Arm 99-09 Volkswagen Jetta


brought to you by 1a auto calm your
source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet hi I’ve
gone from 1 a.m. I hope this how-to video helps you out
and the next time you need a part for your vehicle think of 1a auto calm
thanks in this video we’re going to show you how to replace the lower control arm
on this 2004 Volkswagen Jetta and we show you on the passenger side but the
driver’s side is a similar procedure and the items you’ll need for this is a new
front lower control arm from 1a auto calm 16 17 and 18 millimeter sockets and
a ratchet 13 millimeter and 18 millimeter wrenches 7 millimeter allen
bit locking pliers a torque wrench jack and jack stands and a hammer start off
using a 7 millimeter allen and just prying out these lug nut caps no
fast-forward as he does the rest of those and you’ll notice that this lug
nut is a little different than the others you’re going to need a key to
remove it and that key can be found right here next to your jack stand and
your trunk and you can just push it in to that lug nut and now it removes just
like a regular lug nut and if you don’t have air powered tools you’re going to
want to loosen up these lug nuts then raise the vehicle and remove them the
rest of the way once the lug nuts are removed the wheel
will pull right off and your lower control arm is located right here and
you want to start off by removing these two 18 millimeter bolts and for the
first one you can just use a socket and ratchet and for this bolt you’re going
to need both hands to remove it so first just break it free and then you’re going to want to put an
18 millimeter wrench on the top of it and then use your socket and ratchet for
the bulb itself I’m just fast forward as dawn does this next remove the sixteen millimeter bolt
in your sway bar link at
top of this ball joint there’s a 13 millimeter nut and you want to go ahead
and remove that and to do that you want to put some locking pliers in between
the gasket on the ball joint and the wheel knuckle and then using a 13
millimeter wrench remove the nut at the top and we’ll just fast forward as Don
does this once that’s removed just pull the wheel
away and then pull the control arm down and out next remove these three 13
millimeter bolts that hold the ball joint in place once you remove the last one the ball
joint and pull free on the left is your old control arm on the right is the new
one from 1a auto you can see they’re identical and they’re going to fit
exactly the same now you’d take your old ball joint and push it into your new
control arm but we’re just going to replace our ball joint with a new one
and you just put it into your control arm put this bracket right here and then
start twisting in your bolts from the other side and we’ll fast forward is Don
tightens those up then torque each of these 240 foot
pounds push the lower control arm back into place and you may need a hammer
to help push it back and put one of your bolts in if it doesn’t fit hammer it
back a little further push the bolts in all the way and then put the nut on the
other side of it and to make sure the other side lines up push that bolt back
into place and now you can line up your ball joint and push that up into the
wheel knuckle and then just replace that nut at the top of the ball joint and
we’ll fast forward is Don tightens up those two bolts and that nut at the top
of the ball joint you now torque those two 18 millimeter bolts
70 foot pounds and replace that 16 millimeter bolt in your sway bar link
and tighten it up push the wheel back into place and line
up the holes for the lug bolts and then replace the lug bolts and if you don’t
have air powered tools you want to tighten these preliminary ly lower the
vehicle and then tighten them the rest of the way and then lower the vehicle
and torque each lug nut to one hundred foot-pounds and the crossing pattern replace your lug nut caps and you’re all
set we hope this video helps you out brought to you by 1a auto calm your
source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet please
feel free to call us toll free 888 888 for you on the internet and in person

25 thoughts on “How to Replace Control Arm 99-09 Volkswagen Jetta”

  1. fargobrad says:

    The vice grips where they used to keep the ball joint from spinning for removal?

    Thank you

  2. Roger Archer says:

    Hi guys thanks for the video but just an fyi the driver side control arm is harder to do because the transmission pan limits access to pull the bolt from the front bushing all the way out. A way to work around it is to unbolt the lower engine mount which are two 13mm bolts and then just pull the engine forward by the transmission pan. Works best with an extra set of hands but as precautionary placing your jack before the engine mount will stop the mount from dropping out. All in all great video, completed the repair using Jack stands in my driveway whole job took just about 2 hours.

  3. Matt Gonzalez says:

    This really helped thank you 

  4. FockYouMang says:

    What do you do when the fastener inside the subframe on the outer bushing part of the control arm breaks free of the subframe? Can you please give me some options? Can out be welded from the outside without ruining the threads? It's a Mexican subframe which uses adhesive instead of the German subframe that are welded. I want to drill a extra two holes but don't want to compromise the integrity of the subframe. I don't know what to do, everyone I fix it or buy the new parts it gets worse from now fixing it immediately

  5. FockYouMang says:

    Well cutting where the fastener goes and welding a L bracket work?

  6. Alex M says:

    The very first bolt you remove on the control arm, what can I do if it doesnt come out, I think the thread is worn out. It turns but doesnt come out. What are my options?

  7. WorldEagleKW says:

    Thank you so much for your great help! And I wish you and your business the best.

  8. jerry fregozo says:

    Great video!! Would this apply to a 2002 vw golf gti? Thanks for Your response!!!

  9. Tom Markham says:

    Thanks great video. You should mention at the end to get an alignment right away.

  10. Jonny Travels says:

    Great video. Thank you so much for this! This will save me soooo much headache.

  11. k bob says:

    I've read its best to tighten suspension components with vehicle weight on them. That way they rest in their natural position rather than tightened then twisted into resting position by weight. May not make a big difference but makes sense that it will allow them to last longer.

  12. jan warrington says:

    excellent video…..this is also for 2002 skoda octavia which uses the mark4 golf platform : common parts

  13. B Haski says:

    For the drivers side on a 2002 golf i had to drop the whole subframe an inch to allow the front control arm bolt to be removed

  14. LAWRENCE / P. Ing. Sis. says:

    that sway bar links are plastic or iron???? its same quality oem part ???

  15. Tony Mullins says:

    being vdub guy it's alot easier to replace the whole control arm vs trying to replace the bushings because the bushings cost way to much

  16. Ben P. says:

    Your torque values do not match the Bentley VW service manual. At 4:09 these are 15 ft lbs plus a quarter of a turn = 18 ft lbs. At 5:50 75 ft lbs plus a quarter of a turn. At 6:03 to 11 ft lbs.

  17. taty rogers says:

    I have a 2002 vw golf and the dayum oil cover is in the way of getting the bolt free on the passengers side im in new zealand and it sucks. Seems easier pulling it out rather than puttin it back in though haha drivers side is alot easier

  18. Patrick Teater says:

    I am thinking this is probably the same for the 2004 Volkswagen Beetle – could you tell me how much a new control arm would be for that?

  19. mgerdes0331 says:

    What do you do if the front mount nut broke free?

  20. Steve Flores says:

    I have a 99 Jetta and I have developed a lot problems with wheel shaking around 60+MPH. Last time I had it balanced and alignment checked, it felt really good at higher speeds. However, I had to remove the front wheels to replace the wheel sensors and once I did that, the wheel shake returned. I’m am thinking of getting the front suspension redone with a kit from ECS tuning but before I do that, I’m wondering what else am I missing that could be affecting the wheel shake? Would adding a stud kit to the hubs help with possible misalignment of the wheel onto the hub itself? Is that even possible? I appreciate your video and your feedback!

  21. Chad Soucek says:

    I don't think this is the same for passats. I can only find jetta videos though and I'm pretty sure my ball joint is in a control arm instead of being able to replace just the joint.

  22. Carlo Vincetti says:

    Good Job. No unnecessary yappin. ty

  23. Billy Bongz says:

    After I did this my steering wheel is now off center is that normal and it can be fixed with an alignment? Or did I do something wrong?

  24. Sirtokesalot47 says:

    ok this dont help me u did the easy side how do u do the hard side where the transmissions in the way of removing the bolt

  25. Kevin Daniel says:

    The driver side is NOT a similar procedure! You have to pull the transmission pan on the driver side!

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