How To Replace Front Brakes 01-04 GMC Sierra 2500HD
How To Replace Front Brakes 01-04 GMC Sierra 2500HD

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Hi, I’m Mike Green. I’m one of the owners at 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and
money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I’m going to use my 20+ years experience restoring
and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts
from The right part installed correctly that’s going to save you time and
money. Thank you and enjoy the video. In this video we’re going to show you how
to change the front brakes on this 2002 GMC 2500 HD, pretty much the same as any 2000-2006
and even some ’07, the 2500HD as well as the 2500 both GMC as well as Chevy Silverado.
Tools you’ll need are: A jack and jack stands, various millimeter sockets with a ratchet,
an extension, a breaker bar or metal pipe for some leverage if you don’t have impact
tools like I have in the video, penetrating oil, a large screwdriver or pry bar, a wire
brush, two 10 m x 70 mm long standard thread bolts, anti seize lubricant, and a large C-clamp
and a piece of wood. Okay, so you’ll want to remove your caps 21
mm, do this carefully. Okay, we’ll fast forward a little bit and we’ll use fast forward quite
a bit for these monotonous parts. If you don’t have air tools you’ll want to loosen the lug
nuts with the tire on the ground, then jack up and support with jack stands under your
vehicle. We’re using a 22 mm. Okay, and we’ll fast forward here again as we remove the rest
of the lug nuts and remove the tire from your vehicle. You can see here I go to the other
side and just turn the wheel, you can also just use your steering wheel, this allows
you access to the back easier. Okay, so you want to inspect your brakes and you can see
the face of this rotor is nice and smooth, if you run the back side of your fingernail
up and down it, it looks pretty good. Then there’s, you can actually see, probably, you
can see right here when you move, you can see that moving part to the rotor, just to
the left of it that’s your brake pad, which it looks like there is pretty good life and
this right here is your other brake pad and again, it looks like pretty good life. But,
if you come down here and we look up in here and look at the surface of the rotor in here
one, I can see some pitting which I don’t like, and then there’s a pretty good groove
on this here so I’m going to remove the calipers and the rotors. To remove the calipers I’m going to start
with these two bolts here, okay, this bolt and this bolt. Okay, I want to remove the
bracket to remove the rotor or the disk, I’m going to move this bolt and this bolt down
here. I’m just going to take a big screwdriver, put right in here, and then slowly pry out.
Okay, and that does two things it resets the pistons and also loosens it up so that the
caliper comes right off. The bolts are 18 mm, so a breaker bar is your
best tool and if you only have a ratchet what you can do is take a piece of pipe and put
it on the end and that gives you more leverage. Then you can pull and loosen those up. I do
have air tools so I’m going to use them. Pull your pins out here and you’ll want to clean
these up and re-grease them. My lower one is not coming out very easily. Okay, that
was pretty dry so we really need to clean that up and grease it well. It’s okay to use
the screwdriver to pry the caliper to come off. Then you’ll want to set that here. Then
your pads come off easy enough. If you were just changing your pads, we just pull off
like that. Now the bolts that hold this bracket on are 21 mm. So what you’ll probably want
to do is spray a bunch of penetrating oil on there. Another thing that will help is
if you take a screwdriver and you clean as much of the scale and stuff right here, okay,
after you scrape that out coat back here with the penetrate as well. And I did show doing
that to one spot, what you want to do is spin the rotor around and scrape all the scale
for the entire diameter of the rotar and also coat the entire circumference of the rotor. Is some M10 metric bolts; these are 7 cm long
and just thread them in these two holes. I’m going to use my impact wrench, so you’re basically
just going to tighten them up so you pull the rotor and it comes off. Then take your bolts back
out of the rotor. We can see on this rotor there is some definite pitting issues and
we’re going to replace it. With the rotor off, we want to clean off the hub. I used
a screwdriver to scrape some of the scale off and then a wire brush to clean up more
of the rust and then we’re going to use some anti seize and put it on there. You can also
use some, just some motor oil or penetrate to seal it. Okay, so here’s our new rotor from 1A Auto,
the exact same as the old one and it has the threaded holes so it will come apart and I
put a bunch of anti seize in the inside and put it on here. Give it good tap and then
I like to put a couple of lug nuts on just makes it easy to get the brakes all together.
Okay, now I’m going to take the brake parts cleaner, cut a paper towel, make sure there’s
no grease or anything still on the rotor. If you don’t have brake part cleaner, household
rubbing alcohol will do the same thing. Okay, so here’s our caliper brackets, okay the stainless
steel slides here take the wire brush and just clean those and polish them up nice,
not polish them but just clean them off. Now, here without 21 mm bolts we’re bolting
the bracket back on to the backside of the steering knuckle. Do keep in mind that the
bracket goes on the rotor side so we’ll start these bolts. Tighten these up to 120 foot
pounds. These shoes have thin shins on them so you want to put a little coat of silicone
lubricant on them and then you want these wear tabs to be facing against the way the
wheel is going, you basically want them facing down. So, you put this on. Okay, so you remember our slide bolt that
was dry? Take a screwdriver and kind of get any of the scale off of it. This one is borderline
needing to be replaced actually. Okay, a little grease on it, make sure it’s greased up well.
Okay, what I’ve got here is a piece of wood on both pistons and then a large C-clamp and
as I tighten it’s going to force the pistons back into the caliper. Tighten it as much
as you can and get those pistons seated as far down there as you can and your clamp goes
over the wood and then your caliper will go down right over, but you need to kind of move
the little boot around a little bit, and then your bolt you cleaned up and lubricated. So,
the caliper still moves back and forth we want a little bit more, I’m going to put these
up to 90 foot pounds. Okay, we’re going to speed it up here, as
I straighten the wheels, remove those two lug nuts, a little bit of anti seize or you
could just put some oil or something just to keep the wheel from seizing to the disk.
And now put the wheel on start your lug nuts by hand first, then I use my 22 mm impact
wrench just to tighten them up preliminarily. Okay, now with the truck on the ground I’m
going to torch my lug nuts to 120 foot pounds. I’m going to use a crossing pattern and then
just another key while I’m doing this, before you drive your vehicle make sure you pump
your brakes a whole bunch of times until the pedal feels nice and firm. That works the
cylinders or the pistons back to the set position and then just make sure your brakes hold the
vehicle in gear and then do a stop from 5 mph and a stop from 10 mph before you go out
and road test your vehicle. We hope this helps you out. Brought to you
by– your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on
the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free: 1-888-844-3393. We are the company
that serves you on the internet and in person.

34 thoughts on “How To Replace Front Brakes 01-04 GMC Sierra 2500HD”

  1. XxClemsonTigersXx says:

    Hey guys keep the video's coming!!! especially the ones dealing with GM trucks!!!!

  2. Miguel Esquer says:

    Great tnks!

  3. 1A Auto Parts says:

    @hecliffthecat Not yet but we'll get one of those trucks in here soon enough.

  4. ruhernan_tech says:

    Great video. You guys explain things very well…

  5. Joseph Foster says:

    Will this video work for my 2002 chevy silverado 1500 2wd 4.8liter

  6. TheMakerManWorkshop says:

    God Bless you! You just saved me $600 x 2 vehicles! Thank you so much.

  7. RUSSELGAINZ says:

    My truck started making a chattering in the front driver side wheel. I notice it would happen when I pressed the breaks lightly. Now it does it when I hit the gas and brakes. Any idea on what it is? Someone please help! 2003 silverado v6 4.3L

  8. 1A Auto Parts says:

    @RUSSELGAINZ I would check out the brakes and also the wheel bearings to see if they need to be replaced. You should also inspect the steering stabilizer bars and also the tie rod ends to see if they are worn. A chattering sounds like it could be in the brakes, but I'd also check out the other components mentioned. Hope this helps you out.

  9. 1A Auto Parts says:

    @josephfoster30 The process should be fairly similar if it isn't the same.

  10. bg147 says:

    I am in the process of replacing the front pads, turning the rotors, and repacking the bearings on my 1996 Chevy C1500. On the inside surface of the driver's side rotor, there is a circular ridge of rust and pitting but not along the outer edges of the rotor as I would have expected. It is about halfway between the outer and inner edges, running all the way around. Is there a likely reason for this? The other side was fine along with both sides of the other rotor.

  11. 1A Auto Parts says:

    @bg147 It sounds as though the inner pad might not have been seating properly against the rotor when the brakes were applied. You may want to check the caliper to see if it's working correctly and inspect the brake pads to see if they have worn correctly. Hope this helps you out.

  12. RUSSELGAINZ says:

    @1aauto Thanks so much for the help. Found out when my dad did my brakes he didn't tourqe down the caliper bolts that hold it to the rotor. One was completey missing and that what was causing the chattering. When brakes were being pushed it couldn't grip the rotor properly and was vibrating back and forth cause it was loose with the missing bolt. Thanks so much again and ur vids or A+.

  13. 1A Auto Parts says:

    @RUSSELGAINZ No problem at all. Have a great day!

  14. 1A Auto Parts says:

    @desperado3410 You may want to check the calipers to see if they are working correctly. You could also try bleeding the brakes if the pedal doesn't seem to feel right to you.

  15. irish89055 says:

    am I the only one having trouble finding a good video on replacing the brakes and rotors on the 99+ Chevy Silverado 1500 ?… I love these 1aauto vids but haven't found the one I need though I assume the 2500 is similiar

  16. 1A Auto Parts says:

    This video will show you the basics. You should be able to apply it to your truck.

  17. Darian Reeves says:

    I am having the same issues. I have a 2003 GMC 1500 and I cannot find a good video to help me out for changing brakes and rotors. I am assuming that it is the same.

  18. 1A Auto Parts says:

    It should be the same if not very similar. We carry some great brake rotor and pad kits for your 2003 GMC 1500 on our website 888-844-3393

  19. irish89055 says:

    Well, finally got started on my 99 Silverado 1500… and I had to go out and get a Star drive socket, it doesn't use a 18mm bolt.. The rotor doesn't have those holes for a 10m bolt.. guess a hammer will work..

  20. 1A Auto Parts says:

    The clips help hold the brake pads securely to the caliper. All of them should be used, if not it could create a dangerous 888-844-3393

  21. Loudlevin says:

    Your videos are appreciated greatly.

  22. john hanrahan says:

    You guys are the bee's knees! Awesome series. You helped me with my power windows and it all went like "in the movies"! No frustration no hassle. Thanks again. And yes, I will buy from you if only as a "thank you".

  23. 1A Auto Parts says:

    Thanks for watching. 888-844-3393

  24. Eric Anderson says:

    Thank you. With this video, I was able to complete the job with ease. Only took about 2 hours For all four corners.

  25. 10UPn2DOWN says:

    Thanks you VERY much. Folks like you save the masses big $$$. Plus, adding the FT LBs for torque is the bomb. Thanks again

  26. Mark Ferraro says:

    Great video 1aa thanks

  27. John Wassink says:

    wonderful, thank you

  28. xonds says:

    Dang didilly good video neighbor.

  29. true.dat says:

    fantastic video. Good camera angles, pace, lighting. Equipment list to start out with is the best! All very clear and informative. Going to give this a try. I hope the back brakes are similar… Thanks guys!

  30. Pedram Bastan says:

    What thread pitch are those 10mm bolts you are using to remove the rotor? I doubt my local hardware store has a bin with "standard thread" written on it. Great video

  31. Tim Williamson says:

    Nice video. Is it a good idea to replace calipers as well? 90K miles.

  32. Don F says:

    Spent 2 days convincing my friend yoy DONT NEED TO BLEED THE BRAKES.
    This video is his exact model.

  33. Kevin Adair says:

    I worked at gmc I'm sure lug torque on the wheel is 140ft lbs lol.

  34. Esteban Mayorga says:

    Que you change the break pads you have to change the router too.?

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