How To Replace Front CV Axles 07-17 Chevy Silverado
How To Replace Front CV Axles 07-17 Chevy Silverado


brought to you by 1a auto calm your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet hi I’m Mike from 1a auto I hope this how-to video helps you out and next time you need parts for your vehicle think of 1a auto calm thanks in this video we’re going to show you how to replace the right hand or passenger side front axle on this 2011 Chevy Silverado this is a 1500 the procedure for the left axle is pretty much the same and it’s also the same for these trucks for models years 2007 to 2013 both the Chevy Silverado 1500 as well as the GMC Sierra in this repair we use new axle or axles from 1a auto comm jack and jack stands fifteen and twenty fifteen to twenty two millimeter sockets with a ratchet extension you’ll need a breaker bar and a pipe for some extra leverage a 36 millimeter socket and I separate that one out because it’s not one that’s usually in your regular sockets that you’ll need to buy that one special some penetrating oil in a torque wrench and you can replace these axles one at a time or in pairs from the top there are three 18 millimeter nuts that hold the top of the strut in place see one there one has a wire loom on it there that I’m going to reach down and grab and just pull off apologies for the camera shot let you just grab the wire clip and pull it up off the stud okay so you have your other one there and your third one there now use an 18 millimeter socket with a long extension and remove those three nuts remove the center cap just by prying with a screwdriver and if you don’t have the benefit of air tools loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground then raise and secure the vehicle and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way remove the wheel and tire and they are 22 millimeter lug nuts and turn the wheel using hands or use the steering wheel and then you need to remove the stabilizer link make sure you put some penetrating oil on the top end of it there then use a wrench on the top side and a socket ratchet on the bottom side and remove it all the way I’m going to kind of speed up put a little bit quote-unquote cheat a little bit just using a impact wrench to take that off just speed things up for us of the shock strut in place and we’re just using a 15 millimeter socket and ratchet now you might want to break a bar to break them loose but they come apart pretty easy on this truck and we’ll fast forward as we just take those out those bolts out press down on suspension some and bring the strut down and then up and out hammer in the cold chisel you can also use a large pair of pliers to pull off that center cap just kind of get it started and then pry it off with a screwdriver there okay the nut is a 36 millimeter nut we have the benefit of an air impact wrench you can also just hold the breaks use a breaker bar and a large pipe or something for extra leverage to loosen up or put the wheel back on and set the emergency break and take it off loosen it up that way then raise the vehicle back up and take it off the rest of the way we’re going to put a screwdriver into the brake rotor that’s going to hold things in place you could do that also when you’re removing that 36 millimeter nut for the end of the axle and then there are six 15 millimeter bolts that hold the axle to the differential and we’re just going to remove those and once those boys are out bolts are out pull the axle from the differential and then pull it right out the axle the new axle goes right up into place put it into the hub first you have to twist it a little bit get the splines to line up and then push on the other end of the axle and put it up into place and line up with the differential and I’ll just fast forward here as we put the bolts in start all the bolts in and then tighten them up preliminary and then you want to tighten all the bolts to between 55 and 60 foot pounds and we’ll fast forward as we make sure we torque all those bolts correctly and we’re using the screwdriver we’re using just to hold the rotor in place so we can torque it okay now we’ll go back to putting the strut in and the strut does line up there is a you can see where the spring goes into the mount this end of the spring should face out and put the strut up in place and start the bolts on and you’ll notice we’re putting in a new strut in here you’ll also probably notice that we there’s an old axle in the footage that’s because when we filmed putting the strut and everything back together we had not replaced the axle yet now put the bottom down in place and take your bolt run up through and then those clips that you took off of the original strut put them into place and we just kind of hold them with our fingers get the bolts started in and then you can press them down into place and tighten up the bolts the rest of the way okay you can see here we use a screwdriver to put through the clip to hold it in place until it gets down far enough that it holds itself in place and repeat it for the other side as well okay and you can tighten these up between 70 and 75 foot-pounds okay speed up with a stabilizer link back in place use a pry bar to lift up on the sway bar a little bit put the link back in place put the bolt up through and then tighten the nut down on top and put the tire back on thread thread the lug nuts on and then tighten them up preliminary put that Center bolt back on and tighten it to 156 foot-pounds torque your lug nuts to a hundred and ten foot-pounds using a crossing pattern and then put that Center cap back on and then back up top tighten up the three nuts that hold the top of the strut in place tighten them to 70 foot-pounds and put that wire retainer back in place you’re all set we hope this helps you out brought to you by ww1 ayato calm your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet please feel free to call us toll-free 888 eight four four three three nine three where the company that’s here for you on the internet and in person

46 thoughts on “How To Replace Front CV Axles 07-17 Chevy Silverado”

  1. Bill Royal says:

    Thank you, this is exactly what I was looking for!

  2. Sam Skogen says:

    just half finnished this job. the bolts for the lower strut mount were seized and i had to take off the lower arm and ended up breaking the two clips. where can i find replacements? looked everywhere

  3. Matthew Wilkinson says:

    Do you have to remove the strut to complete this repair?

  4. Pedro Ferrer says:

    Im looking for cv axle replacement for 2008 GMC Acadia.

  5. Zach F says:

    Great video guys. Your GM / Chev videos have been very helpful! In regards to the removal of the strut while replacing the CV; is it 100% necessary to complete the CV swap? I am about to replace ,y front CV's on my 08 Avalanche LTZ 5.3. (Same setup, mechanically speaking) Is the reasoning for the removal because the lower end of the strut interferes with the CV, most importantly the area around the boot? I am assuming there the potential for damage during reinstall anion. Contrary to your video on the older gen. Chev,. (Obviously different models are designed differently). If it's possible can you explain to "us" the reasons / justifications for this step. Thank you for the incorporated strut replacement in this video and appreciate the added bonus. Keep up the great work, cheers!

  6. btfarm says:

    Nice clear vid. I still can't see any reason to pull the strut. Just the stabilizer link. Can you clarify?

  7. SXS TeXaN says:

    great video, I successfully changed out my 2011 4×4 Silverado driveshaft with little issue, I initially tried doing it without removing the strut, it was not possible. thanks again

  8. Jonathan Westmiller says:

    Will I need an alignment after replacing the cv joint

  9. It'syourboy LS says:

    Hello how come you have to remove the strut? Thanks

  10. grgbrss says:

    8-22-16. I replaced both axles this weekend, and I did not find a way to get the axles out without removing the struts. Loosing the upper ball joint helped too. Just go ahead and do all of this vs trying to as little as possible and save the frustration.

  11. Copper coleman says:

    gr8 video..thanks

  12. TJ L says:

    you guys make it all look easy lol

  13. Monkie jockie says:

    Why, when I went to buy my new axles, did the computer ask if it was a smooth door, or creased door?

  14. Oscar Lara says:

    Same procedure for 4WD Tahoe? 2008

  15. David Bone says:

    I have to replace the cv joint on my 2008 Escalade. As I'm sure you know, they are all-time four wheel drive (no 2wd option). When removing the 6 bolts holding it onto the differential, will the cv joint/axle spin if the other 3 wheels are on the ground (using a floor jack/stand on the side I'm working on)? Don't want to get that far into the job only to find out it wont spin to get me access to the remaining bolts.

    By the way, I have used multiple videos of yours to repair my vehicles. You guys are awesome!

  16. Christopher White says:

    70-75' lbs applied to the two bolts at the bottom of the strut was a little much. It stripped the bolt and clamp….

  17. Durg P says:

    Is there a seal that needs to be replaced on the transmission side for these year models?  Thanks for the video.

  18. Eric Rodrigues says:

    Forgot to put the dust cap back in at the end of video.

  19. Enjoy Life says:

    I replaced the driver side cv axle and strut like in the video using 1A auto axle and Monroe Quick strut. Now the vehicle clunks. I think it is the sway bar link but I can't get it any tighter than it already is. It's an 08 Tahoe and the front end has never been apart before. Any ideas?

  20. George Terry says:

    I thought the video was awesome. I bought the pair of CV axles for my 09 Silverado. Shipping was fast and the price was right. The job was a piece of cake. I don't have a lift, however it was still easy. Having pneumatic tools is a beautiful thing…thanks 1A Auto.

  21. albertabowhunter says:

    thank you, made doing this so much easier.

  22. Gerardo Lerma says:

    will this process work on a 2007 yukon denali AWD?

  23. Mike D says:

    Any videos to replace just the front axle seals on an 09 Avalanche LTZ 4WD?

  24. Joseph Abraham says:

    Is it absolutely necesaary to take out the strut? I'm taking off the half shafts because 4wd box is grinding metal to shavings.

    Follow-up questiom, will it he an issue to not have anything in place of the half shafts?

  25. Aaron Daum says:

    I just replaced the Rh axle on my 2008 Silverado. You DO have to remove the strut to get the axle out. I wondered why while watching this video, and it will not come out with the strut in place. And if you have a Rough Country leveling kit installed, be prepared for a little more work than the video shows. All I did was remove the bolts and knock the block out. When reinstalling, I kept the strut nuts just slightly loose. Used a pry bar to hold down on the on the a arms. Tapped the block into place to slide on bottom strut bolt in then used a large crescent wrench to twist the strut to get the other bolt to line up.

  26. Taylor Chase says:

    Is it the same process for the 2500?

  27. DistortedFocus says:

    where are you getting these torque specs and why aren't the ones I'm finding not matching up?

  28. Crash99 Night Rider says:

    What part # is that axle? Please

  29. Christopher Hamrick says:

    are you removing the strut to provide clearance? do I have to remove the strut if I've had a 8 in suspension lift? thank for the videos

  30. twistedgaming555 says:

    You guys have made my repairs a lot quicker. Thanks!!!!!!

  31. G 30 says:

    Will this help with my truck shaking bad on rough roads? It drives up to 85 smoothly on nice roads but once I'm on a less than decent road it feels like its falling apart

  32. steve shockley says:

    he didn't put the dust cap back on

  33. 200yrs2L8 says:

    Nice vid… but we forgot to reinstall the large nut cover!! ooooppps!!

  34. James Dot says:

    A Big THANK YOU for the info and excellent video , I have a 2007 GMC Yukon Denali to do the right front CV half shaft and wasn't sure if I had to remove complete hub or not . Thanks again …

  35. Ride Red says:

    Seeing how you had to remove strut does this apply to the 07 classic or would it be the same as this one.

  36. Alcali Lake says:

    Please fix "75 ft lbs" on strut bolt torques. 37 according to book. Now I need bolts to fix my truck and can't drive it. Otherwise, your videos are helpful. Except this one. This one hurts

  37. Camp Freedom VT says:

    You forgot the dust cap.

  38. Dustin Macahonic says:

    Do you need some sort of strut compressor to get the same strut back into place on the bottom side to Or can a guy muscle it back in

  39. Pyro_Chip says:

    How much would this cost a mechanic to do average?

  40. A Coatl says:

    My truck doesn’t have cv axles on either side, just the tie rod/half shaft in front of it. Why is that?

  41. Buster BROWN says:

    you forgot the anticize

  42. John Eaton says:

    My torque wrench goes to 150ft .. is 6lbs short of spec bad?

  43. Stephen Slayton says:

    My spindle bolts were damaged when my CV broke, I am unable to remove them- any advice?

  44. Chelsey Michals says:

    I have a 2008 Chevy Silverado half ton, we bought a 36mm socket and it didn't work. Found out it takes a 35mm after we took 2 trips to town, 35 miles one way, to get the right socket

  45. Shawn Smith says:

    Does the strut absolutely have to come out 1st?

  46. lizardtoter says:

    These guys have their stuff together! This video is better than Hollywood 😂. I gotta get ball joints off but gotta get the axle out of the way. Now I know how! THANKS 1A AUTO!

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