How To Replace Front Strut and Spring 04-08 Ford F150
How To Replace Front Strut and Spring 04-08 Ford F150


Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source
for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and
next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks! In this video, we’re going to show you how
to replace the front struts. This is a 2005 Ford F-150. It’s exactly the same for any 2004, the new
body style, through the 2008, and probably the same for 2009 and up. We show you on the driver’s side, but the
passenger’s side is the same procedure and we do recommend you replace them in pairs. You’ll need new front struts from www.1AAuto.com,
sockets from 8mm up to 30mm, a pipe or a breaker bar for leverage, a 12mm 12-point socket,
18mm and 21mm wrenches, pliers, pry bar, flat blade screwdriver, torque wrench, hammer and
jack and jack stands. Start off by prying off the hubcap. Then loosen up these lug nuts using a 21mm
socket and ratchet and a piece of pipe for some extra leverage. Then raise the vehicle, and remove them the
rest of the way and take the tire off. You want to life the whole front of the car
up and put it on jack stands with both wheels off the ground. Now pull the wheel off. Now turn the wheel, and remove this 21mm nut
at the top of your outer tire rod. Then once you remove it, you want to just
put it back on just a couple threads. Now hammer the knuckle until the outer tire
rod drops down. Now you can remove that nut, and just set
your outer tire rod off to the side. Underneath your control arm, on the bottom
of the sway bar link you want to just remove that nut. You can try doing it with an 18mm ratchet,
but most likely it’s going to start spinning, and the solution for that is an 18mm wrench
and an 8mm socket and ratchet. Then you can just remove that nut. You want to spray the bolt that holds the
bottom of your strut, and then a 30mm socket. I’m using a breaker bar and a piece of pipe
and break that free. Then once you get it going, the bolt will
most likely spin. Hold the bolt end with the 27mm socket and
take that nut off. Then spray these 15mm nuts at the top of the
strut with some penetrating fluid, and remove two of them all the way. The other one, you just want to leave on a
few threads. Using a pair of pliers, remove this cap. Then loosen up and remove that 13mm nut. Then you want to just put it back on just
a few threads. Tap it with a hammer and make sure it goes
through. Then remove the nut the rest of the way. On the other end of the axle, there’s a series
of 12mm bolts. You just need to use a 12mm 12-point socket,
and then a pry bar to hold the wheel. Just loosen those up. You can also just have a helper get in the
vehicle, and hold the brakes to hold the axle in place. When you remove that last one, just push the
axle down to the side. Now spray this 21mm nut up here on the bottom
of your upper control arm. Then remove that nut, and put it back on just
a few threads. Now with the nut back on a few threads, just
hammer the wheel knuckle until the upper control arm loosens up. Now just lift up on the wheel knuckle, and
then remove that nut. Now you can just set the wheel knuckle off
to the side carefully. You don’t want it to strain those brake hoses. Then just tap the axle and pull it out of
the wheel knuckle. You want to feed the axle towards the left
side towards the front of the vehicle. Then just angle it down, and pull it down and out. Now, we’re just going to check up underneath
the control arm a little bit. The vehicle is still supported on the jack
stands under the frame. Remove the bolt from the bottom of the strut,
and you can see the struts in there are still loose. Make sure the nuts on the top of the strut
are removed. Pry the strut out. Up top is the old strut. Below it is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they’re identical and they’ll
fit exactly the same. Feed your strut up into place. Push those studs through. Then just replace those nuts at the top to
just hold it. You don’t need to tighten them up right now. You’re just putting them there to hold it
in place. Then pry the bottom of the strut back into
the lower control arm. Then push that bolt back through. You just make sure it’s all the way in. Then replace the nut and tighten it up preliminarily. We’ll just fast-forward as Mike goes back
over those 15mm nuts making sure they’re tightened. Then you can remove the jack. Feed your axle back into place. You want to feed it back in the same way that
you pulled it out. Then just angle it back down into the hub
and push it in. Now you can take your upper control arm and
push it back into the wheel knuckle. Once you push it through, just put that 21mm
nut on there to hold it in place. Line up the axle and replace those 12mm bolts. We’ll fast-forward as Mike does this. Now tighten each of those to 60 foot-pounds
in a crossing pattern. You can see we torqued that one. Then you want to turn the wheel until you
get the one on the opposite side. Then torque that one. You want to just repeat this process with
each of them. Now replace this 13mm nut and torque it to
20 foot-pounds. Then replace that cap and just tap it into
place. If any of the lines on the back came undone,
make sure you push them back in and re-clip them. Then push your outer tire rod up to the wheel
knuckle and replace the nut. Then torque that to 111 foot-pounds. Now just tighten up this bolt on your upper
control arm. If the stud spins, use a 10mm socket and ratchet. Then you want to torque this to 111 foot-pounds. Then tighten up the nut on the bottom of your
sway bar link. Jack up underneath the lower control arm to
simulate a wheel being in place. Torque the lower strut bolt to 150 foot-pounds. Now we’ll fast-forward as Mike replaces the
wheel and replaces the lug nuts and tightens them preliminarily. Then he lowers the vehicle and tightens them
the rest of the way. Then torque each of them in a crossing pattern
to 120 foot-pounds. Then just replace your hubcap and you’re all
set. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source
for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We’re the company that’s here for you on the
Internet and in person.

22 thoughts on “How To Replace Front Strut and Spring 04-08 Ford F150”

  1. cody buijnink says:

    I was planning on doing this when I replace my rotors and pads. Would you recommend replacing shocks and struts first then rotors and pads after?

  2. Joseph Zertuche says:

    This helped me a lot, thank you!

  3. Quantis says:

    Super helpful. I really appreciate it.

  4. Walt Bryan says:

    Besides the front axles would this be the same procedure with a 2wd?

  5. Wayne Harding says:

    Hi. My name is Wayne Harding. I am replacing my front struts on my 2005 Ford F-150 4WD XLT and I ordered struts from 1A AUTO.com. I have watched the video which shows Mike replacing the front struts on a 2005 Ford F-150 4WD truck many times. I pay close attention to the torquing specs of the bolts. I have noticed that when he torques the lower strut nut, he only torques that particular nut to 150 ft-lbs. However, the Haynes Repair Manual I just purchased which covers Ford Trucks 2004-2014 both 2WD & 4WD with a 5.4L says that particular nut is required to be torqued to 350 ft-lbs. Which FT-LBS torque should I use? Thanks

  6. James Houk says:

    I really enjoy watching your tutorials, thank you for taking the time to make them.
    I'm planning on removing and replacing the entire front end minus the hubs and brakes.
    The upper and lower ball joints with new control arms, the CV axles and complete strut assembly as well as tie rod ends. In what order would you remove and replace these items to save the most time? I figured I should do it all since I'm already in there.

  7. arizona f250 says:

    couldn't you just undo lower control arm from frame and drop strut out the bottom

  8. tmaq97 says:

    lower strut bolt is 351 ft lbs for torque

  9. halleffect1 says:

    Thanks for the upload.
    I just did this job and found driveshaft removal is not necessary. I just undid upper ball joint and swung the assembly back a little.

  10. craig jones says:

    all you need to do is break loose the upper ball joint, and pop the tie rod out of the knuckle for the 2wd

  11. BCBOYS92 says:

    So did the job no need to take off sway bar link, axle shaft, tie rod end. Just remove upper ball joint nut

  12. coolreed says:

    A lot of the disassembly is not necessary to change only the strut. But a nice tutorial.

  13. Parris Williams says:

    Piece of pipe is called a "cheater bar" not being anal, just fyi..ing

  14. That_Ford _Guy says:

    I just purchased a set of upper and lower control arms from 1A Auto and they work fantastic. Thanks 1A Auto👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

  15. Coach Dad 32 says:

    I only had to take the tie rod loose..axle removal not needed..but thanks for helping 😉

  16. Everett McGill says:

    This is the most thorough video I have seen on replacing struts on the F150, I am unclear on why the axle needs to be removed.

  17. michael bendaravicius says:

    i got 07 f150 and change the struts and i didnt have to do half of what you did! tie rod and the 3 bolts and big bolts took out and the put new in

  18. ORLANDOS WORLD says:

    is the lower strut bolt torqued to 150 ft lbs or 350 ft lbs ?

  19. Robert Rowlin says:

    I don’t think I need to take all that off just to get to the struts. Just the outer tiered so that u can turn the steering knuckle out of the way

  20. DaddyBeanDaddyBean says:

    I just watched another video that didn't do half of this disassembly – just the outer tie rod, strut bolt at the bottom and three nuts on top. On the other hand, it was a bit difficult for that guy to wiggle the old strut out past everything that was still connected, and sneak the new one into position; removing the axle and so forth is a lot more work up front but would make it easy to get the strut in and out. So there's that.

  21. Pat Hutto says:

    Only reason for removing sway bar link and axle is because they replaced them with new ones. A quick disclaimer as beginning of video would clear up a lot of confusion for people.

  22. D DeLuca says:

    There is a so much easier way of doing this! Thanks for the vids tho

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