How To Replace Front Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly 04-08 Ford F150
How To Replace Front Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly 04-08 Ford F150


Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source
for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and
next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks! In this video, we’re going to show you how
to replace a front hub on this 2005 Ford F150. We show you on the passenger side but the
driver’s side is the same procedure. The items you’ll need for this are a new front
hub from 1AAuto.com, a 13mm, 18mm, and 21mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for
leverage, flat blade screwdriver, a pair of pliers, a jack and jack stands and a torque
wrench. Pry off the hubcap, and then, using your 21mm
socket and ratchet, loosen up each of the lug nuts. Pull off this cap with a pair of pliers and
then loosen up this 13mm nut. Now raise the vehicle and remove the lug nuts
the rest of the way. Remove your wheel. Turn the wheel so you can access the brakes
better. To make it easier to get the caliper off,
just take a large screwdriver and put it into the brake disk and pry out. You don’t have to move it far, just enough
to help you get things apart. Then we are going to remove the two 13mm bolts
here and one up here. Push in the slides on the bracket and then
pull the caliper up and off. Now pry out your brake pads
and now remove these two 18mm bolts on the back of your caliper bracket, and we’ll just
fast-forward as Mike removes those. Put one of the lug nuts back on and then tap
your rotor. Then remove the lug nut and pull your rotor
free. The ABS harness connector is under the hood
but actually it’s easier to reach it from underneath. You can see I’m reaching up through the inner
fender and pressing on the tab and pulling it apart. It does take a little bit of force but you
can get it. If everything here is wire-tied, make sure
you disconnect that, and then just pull this clip out at the top of this harness. Then you want to remove these four 18mm bolts. Two on that side and two over here. We’ll fast-forward as Mike removes both of
those, and you can see he uses a piece of pipe for some extra leverage. Now remove that 13mm nut the rest of the way,
and you want to make sure that it can push in and out. That means your axle is going to disconnect
from the hub. Now twist in one of those 18mm bolts just
a partial way so this doesn’t go flying when you hammer it. You just want to hammer it to loosen it up
a bit more from the wheel knuckle, then remove that bolt, and your hub should pull free. On the right is the old hub; on the left is
the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they are identical and they’ll
fit exactly the same. Here is a front shot. You can see same thing, they look identical. Just wipe any dirt off of there or anything. Grease up the set of bearings that’s right
inside here with some bearing grease. Then just apply a light coat to the engaging
wheel for the 4-wheel drive here. That harness lead faces the back. Get it in place. We’ll fast-forward as Mike replaces the rest
of those bolts and then tightens all of them up. You want to torque each of those four bolts
to 95 foot-pounds. Now replace that 13mm nut, tighten it up,
and then just torque that to 20 foot-pounds. Take your ABS wire and unclip it. Then you want to just push this into that
bracket right there. Replace this small cap. Put the rotor into place, and then replace
a lug nut to just hold it in place while you put the caliper bracket back on. You put the brake caliper bracket back into
place and replace the two 18mm bolts that hold it there. We’ll fast-forward as he tightens those up. Then you want to torque both of those to 95
foot-pounds. Put your caliper back into place. Then replace those two 13mm bolts and tighten
them up. Now torque both of these to 25 foot-pounds. Reconnect this clip on the ABS harness. Just work your way down the harness, re-clipping
the end to each of those clips. Remove the lug nut and then put your wheel
back into place. Then replace each of the lug nuts and tighten
them up preliminarily. Then lower the vehicle and tighten them the
rest of the way. Torque each of the lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds
in a crossing pattern. Replace your hubcap. Come up here and reconnect your ABS harness. After doing any work on the brakes, you just
want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour,
then 10 miles per hour. We hope this video helps you out. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source
for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We’re the company that’s here for you on the
Internet and in person.

23 thoughts on “How To Replace Front Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly 04-08 Ford F150”

  1. John T Crittendon says:

    this video was nicely done, thanks you and I will check out your website.

  2. Stephen Foltz says:

    Some of the better how to vids I've seen. Gained new confidence for DIY.

  3. Andy HULETTE says:

    Great video, I couldn't find what still holding my hub on and it was the 13mm nut, If I had watched this first would have saved all kinds of time, now I know.  Great price on the replacement hub too!

  4. Rogelio Montalvo says:

    Thank you! !! Sooo much.. please make more videos ( we save money lol)

  5. AguiilaR1221 says:

    how much is the torque..??

  6. Cws Canadian Waterproofing Systems says:

    Thanks so much! took me less than an hours including rotating the tires!

  7. Maza Mike says:

    Great help.

  8. Albert Wilcox says:

    Great instructional video. I'm a 67 year grandpa, who has always been pretty self-sufficient. I've changed wheel bearings on trailers, but this was a little more of a challenge to me…ABS braking system, 4×4 hub, ect. Add to the equation that I have stage four cancer, and my stamina is not what it used to be.

    I was quoted a price of $584.00 to do the job, which is probably accurate. But being on Social Security that is quite a bit of money, for something I thought I should be able to do. Searched the web, and found this video to be the best. Ordered the part from 1A Auto on Thursday and had the part delivered Friday.

    I started the job Saturday morning about 9:30 and finished about 5:30 that afternoon. This included a couple of rest breaks, a nice lunch and a 2 1/2 hour break to watch one of my grandson's baseball game .. his team won & he went 2 for 4.

    Besides the money saved, the feeling of self-accomplishment was priceless. THANK YOU so much.

  9. Mike Lindsey says:

    Good video, but you really should make it clear that this is a 4 wheel drive truck and hub and that the parts are different for a 2WD truck

  10. Steve Stewart says:

    Thanks for the video. Well informative. I repaired my F150 today with no problems.

  11. Benjie Lewis says:

    Great video all around. Nice work. Keep videos like this coming. Very useful for guys that still work on their own cars/trucks and who aren't afraid to tackle something new. Videos like this save guys like us real $$$$. Wish I would've bought the hubs from you…would've saved $100 per hub. Damn!!! I'll head your way next time I need any parts!

  12. Jason Wirtzfeld says:

    Parts ordered!!! Wish me luck!!

  13. 9395gouku says:

    is it the same process for a 2wd?

  14. Russell McClendon says:

    That you much for this video, I need to do this exact repair on my F-150. Have an auto shop wanting to charge $420 for replacing the bearing and hub assembly, yet I can find the part for $70-80. Is there something I'm missing that would account for the extra couple hundred? Surely not labor, I'm being quoted $370 for the bearing and hub assembly.

  15. Russell McClendon says:

    Oh, one thing to note: I have a 5 spoke, 2004 F-150, the bolts holding the assembly were 15mm, not 18mm (the caliper bolts were 18mm). 04 was the year Ford thought it would be cool to release 2 models of the same truck. I want to say I have the "non-heritage" model. But I forget.
    I also needed a 1 3/8 socket to remove the spindle nut from the assembly, not 13mm.

  16. Joe Flynn says:

    You saved me a lot of money now and possibly in the future.

  17. Joe Lusk says:

    how does this apply to a RWD? same steps?

  18. DeJuan Evans says:

    can you do this without raising the car?

  19. Randy Phelps says:

    question, should you grease the two slide bolts on the caliper as well?

  20. omar moreno says:

    Great video that’s how you explain something!

  21. juandr242424 says:

    good video very teach. thanks!

  22. - YaBoyGrind - says:

    Couldn't you just take off the whole brake caliper together in one?

  23. Aven Miller says:

    Any locations in dallas

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