How To Replace Front Wheel Hub & Bearing – Ford Mustang (’05 – ’14)
How To Replace Front Wheel Hub & Bearing – Ford Mustang (’05 – ’14)

Hey this is another video by Pet Rock. Today I’m working on my brother in laws ’07
GT500 and today we are going to be replacing replacing the drivers side wheel hub and bearing. While this video is on a GT-500 it is not
specific to GT 500s. So this will apply to pretty much the standard
V6 all the way up to the regular GT’s of this vintage. So thats how I have the car suspended in the
air, on the frame rail with a piece of wood so I don’t damage the frame rail. And I also put the tire underneath the car
just in case it does fall it will land on the tire and not straight on the ground damaging
other components. So to get the wheel hub we have to remove
the brake caliper and the rotor so we can get access to this area right here. So to do that I’ll remove the entire caliper
and mounting bracket as one unit. There is a bolt right there and another bolt
right there that you remove. They are 15mm. It’s a little bit hard for me to record this
from back here so I’m going to bring you out front and just spin them off. And now we just take the caliper off. The caliper is quite heavy. You don’t want to let the caliper hang off
the break hose. You could easily damage the flexible break
hose or bend or crimp the metal break lines. Take a bungie cord or a bit of rope or something
and hang it from the bungie cord. The key is you don’t want the calipers weight
on the brake line. Ok, once you’ve got the caliper secure there
might be a little star shaped thing on one of the lug nuts. You can just rip that off. You don’t really need it. It’s only there for assembly at the factory. In this case there isn’t one so I can pull
the rotor right off. Maybe not. So in this case the rotor doesn’t want to
come off. It looks like it’s rusted to the hub. So I just take a little penetrating oil. Shoot it in the holes. Also put penetrating oil around this area
right here which is where the rust lives. So now that we’ve let it sit for a little
while you want to take a flat sledge and another hammer and hit the back of the sledge like
this in each spot around here. You don’t want to just wack in here with the
hammer because you can easily screw up the studs. And that will wiggle it free till you can
take it all the way off. You notice all the rust in here and all the
rust in here that was holding the rotor in place. Ok next we need to take this cap off. It’s just plastic so you don’t want to just
beat on it. If you do damage it don’t worry they are replaceable. I think they are ten dollars or something
like that. But in my case I don’t want to replace it. I want to reuse it. So I’m going to take a screw driver between
the hub and the cap and tap it in. And just keep working around the hub until
it comes out. Its starting to come loose now. It helps if you have a screw driver at a little
bit of an angle. Once you’ve got it out a little bit you can
start taking the screw driver and start twisting it to pry the cap out. I need to get a bigger screw driver. There we go. Ok. Once you’ve got the center cap off now we
need to remove the spindle nut. It’s a 36mm one time use nut. So once you remove it it is garbage. You need to replace it with a new one. If you don’t have a 36mm socket in your arsenal
you can rent one from your local auto parts store for a couple bucks and you get your
money back when you return it. It’s part number 27054. It’s made by OEM. So these nuts are on with upwards of 220 ft/lbs
of torque. So it’s going to take a lot of effort to get
this thing off. If you have the use of air tools then I would
advise using that. Otherwise get a really long breaker bar and
a bunch of leverage. Try to use your body weight to push off. If you don’t have a lot of body weight you
can try to find a friend with some or you can reverse it and pull up on this side. You know, righty tighty lefty loosey. And lift with your legs. Again, there is a lot of torque on it so you
don’t want to hurt yourself while your trying to take this thing off. So now, if I’m lucky, this will just pull
off. And it did. Thats actually very surprising knowing my
luck. If you are unlucky and this doesn’t want to
come off easily. You can get a three jaw puller from your local
auto parts store and basically push against this and pull this way with the puller in
order to pull this off. So now we’re going to prep for reinstall. So first thing you want to do is you want
to clean off the stud with some break cleaner. Next you want to put a light coat of anti-seize
on the smooth part here. Not on the threads but on the smooth part
here. This is to, in case you do live in an area
with a lot of rust this will make removing the hub next time, if you ever have to do
that, a lot easier. You can use anti-seize here or even a light
coat of engine oil or transmission fluid will work here. Make sure to get this back flat part because
that’s where the rust will most likely form. Now take out your old and your new hub assembly
and verify that they are the same size. That the studs are in relatively the same
locations and that if your car comes with ABS that it comes with an ABS tone ring on
the back similar to your stock one. And just take it and just slide it on. Ok now we put on the new spindle nut. You don’t want to put anything on the threads
here because you actually don’t want to take this easy to remove. Because this is what’s applying the preload
to the bearings inside the hub. Now you get a torque wrench that can do 221
ft/lbs of torque and torque this thing down to 221 ft/lbs. Use your legs when you are pulling up. Don’t just use your back you’ll hurt your
back. Now that that’s done you take your cap. Clean it off if you need to and stick it back
on. So as you can see the cap doesn’t want to
go in straight always. Its a press fit so you’re going to need to
take something and tap it through. So now before putting the rotor back on it’s
a good idea to take a little bit of anti-seize and rub it around the hub right in here like
that and maybe put a little bit on the flat spots to avoid having the rotor stick the
next time you try to take it off. So its also a good idea to take a little bit
of emory cloth and clean up the inside bore right here as well as smooth out this rusty
area in here so that it doesn’t cause a problem later. Clean it off with a little bit of brake clean. Having any rust in here will make it so that
the rotor doesn’t sit flush against the hub and you’ll have it a little bit cock eyed. You don’t want that. You want this to be as smooth as possible
and as up against this hub as possible. So now reinstall the rotor. And to make installing the brake caliper easier
I like to take one of the lug nuts and just spin it on all the way. It’s better when you have a through hole lug
nut to do this with. You might be able to pick one up at your local
auto parts store so that the rotor stays flush against the hub and doesn’t flop around as
much while you are trying to put the caliper on. So before putting the caliper on and all that
you want to clean off the rotor to make sure you get off any penetrating oil or any of
your own finger grease off the rotor before you continue. Make sure to get both sides. Ok so now we put on the caliper. So remove it from it’s hanger and make sure
that the brake pads are still separated and slide it into place. So now take the mounting bolts and put a little
bit of anti-seize on the tip. You don’t need to put a hole bunch. You just need a little bit. It will coat itself over all the threads as
you thread it inside. Some people put blue loctite on. If you properly torque these bolts you don’t
need loctite. The reason I put anti-seize on these bolts
is so that when I ever have to take these off again they’re not going to be rust on
and I’m not going to break the bolt off inside the mount. This just makes my life easier going down
the road. I’ve been doing this for years and never had
a problem. Just take the bolt. Line up the holes in the mounting bracket
with the holes on the spindle and start them by hand. Again, sorry, its hard to show this on camera
but you want to start them by hand so you don’t cross thread them. Now take your 15mm socket and tighten them
down. So next we torque down the mounting bolts
to 85 ft/lbs. There is a bracket on the back side of the
strut assembly that holds the brake hose in place. You might want to remove that bracket temporarily
in order to give yourself a little more room to get your torque wrench in there. In my case I can fit it so I’m just going
to go for it. Sorry for blocking that shot and sorry for
the dogs barking. Ok, once you’ve got this torqued down to 85
ft/lbs thats pretty much it. You just obviously take the lug nuts off. Put the wheel back on and drop the car down
and take it for a test drive. If you just changed the hub you don’t need
to get an alignment. If you had to touch the inner or outer tie
rods or touch the strut then you probably need an alignment. But if you just replaced the hub you don’t
need to get an alignment. You should be all good. But if you haven’t gotten an alignment in
a long time it might be a good time to do it just to make sure everything’s aligned
and running true again. So I hope this video helped you out. If you have any questions, comments or concerns
please leave them in the comments section below. If you like this video click the like button. If you want to see more videos like this one,

43 thoughts on “How To Replace Front Wheel Hub & Bearing – Ford Mustang (’05 – ’14)”


    Well done, man that bearing just fell off , most times I'm bashing on it for a while just to get it loose. You were just a surprised . Take Care buddy.

  2. wyattoneable says:

    Nice work on the car and with the camera.

  3. UndeadExplorer says:

    "If you don't have a lot of bodyweight, don't worry, you can rent some at your local auto parts store for a few bucks" lol
    Seriously though, thanks for the vid! I'm running through various maintence on my 06 v6 stang

  4. RICKAFIX says:

    wow.. i wish mine came off that easy…nice vid

  5. Barry says:

    Thanks for the video. Mine came off with no problem.

  6. Isaac Balboa says:

    Thank you for this video and all your other videos on the Mustang. I watched some of your videos before doing my rear bearings today. Turns out my fronts are making noise too, so I am replacing those this coming week. Seems a lot easier.

  7. Greg Ruffino says:

    Do you have any advice on were to buy a Long Block 3.8L V6 232ci Reman engine? Autozone etc.. for my 96 mustang. Autozone price is about $1900.00 but worried about the quality, never bought a Reman from them. thanks.

  8. Mustang860 says:

    No thread lock?

  9. poundu27 says:

    What kind of antiseize do you use?

  10. techdiode says:

    My bearing slide off, but the back half is stuck on… lol

  11. Jon Hertzler says:

    Your video helped me a lot. Thx ('05 v6)

  12. Ramon Mauricio Menjivar Jr. says:

    is changing the rear wheel bearing different? 05 v6

  13. Ed Klein says:

    Hey excellent video & thank you very much for making it so clear to do step by step 👍 how long should it take do you think to do both sides incase i pay a good shop to do it

  14. Ed Klein says:

    Did it myself in the driveway yesterday , piece of cake, again many thanks for the tips

  15. Thomas Strike says:

    Great video. Apparently you consulted the Ford Mustang service manual because your details and torques were right on. Even the professionals' videos didn't do the prescribed procedures that you cover here.

    The reason I am watching these videos is the reason I have to replace the bearing hub ass'y. is because things were not tightened down on the right front wheel of my Granddaughter's Mustang and the wheel flew off going down the interstate and I don't want my repair job be the cause of this happening again. I was concerned about the torque on the axle nut for this reason. The auto parts store already had their 250LB torque bar loaned out when I picked up all the parts so I was thinking that the torque spec was just to make sure that it would not loosen back up and I would just torque it by feel and I should be somewhere close to okay. Now that I know that this torque sets the tightness of the bearing itself, I am going back into town to get a torque wrench.

    I noticed that you didn't use new anchor plate bolts as the Ford manual prescribed and used an anti-lock compound on them instead of a lock-nut compound like the factory did.. I couldn't see any reason why I would not want to use these perfectly good bolts over again.

    p.s. I would like to know who the two were that gave this video a thumbs down. One of them must have been the last person to work on my Granddaughter's Mustang. I want to make sure that I never have these shade tree mechanics work on any of my vehicles.

  16. charlie roper says:

    Guy knows how to convey technical information.

  17. Zalo says:

    Awesome thanks!!!! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼!!!

  18. keirscova says:

    note to myself, look for a fat friend

  19. jesus tamez says:

    I didn't see where he changed th bearings …. Just the hub.

  20. David Wiley says:

    Doing a friend mustang tomorrow. Great video, I wanted to get right to it. Simple enough. Thanks.

  21. TeeOne Gee says:

    Seems almost too easy. Should be able to get of mine done in 8 hours judging by past experiences.

  22. Mustang Joe says:

    Excellent , thank you !

  23. Joey Swander says:

    Just did that, now I’m Getting a noise every rotation. I had my tires balanced right after as well.

  24. 99gtmusman says:

    Great video im a new sub …..thanks

  25. SIDESHOW_MARS says:

    Hi im trying to find the bearings for my 2006 v6 car.. I could not find which one it is, they have allot of deferent ones. If its not to much of a bother would you be able to help me with that and which brand is better.

  26. Dillon Turner says:

    Was this bearing noisey or giving other symptoms? Ive got an 06 v6 that has a whopping 241k on it. 5spd and she'll still fly! Shes not letting those miles keep her down. But ive experienced an issue for awhile now but never really payed much mind to it as it was a pretty rare thing. At highspeeds such as a bypass at around 70mph if im turning right around a bend at speed it sounds like the tire on the driverside is roaring. Thats the only time it makes this noise. Sounds about like a lifted truck with some knobbly tires. Straighten the wheel it goes away immediately. Well last night I was in a similar area where this always happened except this time it felt like my wheel was about to fall off. And at 70mph that would have been 0 fun. I got out and checked the lugnuts (cause it felt and sounded like loose lugnuts). Ive also developed a shake in my steering wheel on the highway that shops cant seem to figure out. They claim the rotors are running true, tires are balanced perfect and seem defect free. Im still going to swap my front tires to the rear and see what happens but while im there im going to check for any play in that wheel bearing and the other side aswell for good measure.

  27. jenwoo lee says:

    I am about to change mine too. I saw you applied the anti-seize. Do we have to apply the anti-seize? Also, should we apply the grease for the new bearing? Thank you so much!

  28. MisterClassic77 says:

    Nice, clear and concise video. Straight to the point with no filler 👍🏿👍🏿

  29. Richard Garza says:

    This wasn’t too bad compared to changing the strut mounts. Finished on about 2hrs & 45 mins.

  30. Aleksandar Tadic says:

    I bet this guy shits anti-seize lol, sounds like AvE. Helpful videos tho

  31. dick dickerson says:

    didnt know the neighbors where having a argument. (dogs).

  32. Christopher Lopez says:

    Is the 36 socket a 12 point or regular ?

  33. tubeonline629 says:

    Very good explanation, I want to know if your brotherinlaw let's you drive that GT500?

  34. catfisher420 says:

    Its about time they use HUB assemblies on front spindles, I always hated doing bearings and races!

  35. Laurence Moreno says:

    How do you know when it is 220ft lbs of torque on the new spindle nut?

  36. P Wilki says:

    Thanks for the great video. Everything just fell off in my hands 🙂 thank God I live in Arizona, not one flake of rust.

    Took me an hour not including store and test drive time.

  37. Indicaxn WrathChild says:

    Hey Bro, Great Video and Thank you for communicating Torques and Size on that Spindle Nut which I didn't watch this and realize it was one time use until after I got my car tore apart LoL. Now that I got them etc I should be good. Did want to add that you could add the Torques and Sizes/Tools required in the information section for future use or people like me who watched 5 times just to make sure I got the right stuff Hahaha. Thanks!

  38. David Garcia says:

    Tremendous help thank u soooo fuckin much iv got a 96 tbird an was having the hardest time with this wheel hub add to the fact that i couldn't find anything anywhere on it an i wanted to make sure i did it right but this video helped alot while mine was not a mustang it was the same setup as my tbird now i can finish putting it allllll back together i redid the whole front-end now i can get an alignment an go do some donuts lol thanks 😀👍👍👍👍

  39. Omar 7 says:

    Thank you for your well explained video. You just saved me a few hundred dollars. God bless you and your family.

  40. Hellotoarms says:

    Do you need to replace the whole wheel hub with the bearing? Or can you press a new bearing into the hub? First time doing this 🙂

  41. GTA.ORIGINAL says:

    Dude sounds like Rick Sanchez

  42. Greg Allen says:

    As a certified technician, This is a great video with very good easy to follow content. Well done sir.

  43. Kyle Sherrill says:

    Wondering how you can tell they need replacing?
    My mechanic showed me some slight movement of the front wheels on the lift.
    But only 50k on the car.
    No noise or any other symptoms. 05 Mustang Gt.

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