How To Replace Inner & Outer Tie Rods – Ford Mustang (’05 – ’10)

Hey this is another video by Pet Rock and
today I’m working on my brother in laws ’07 Shelby Mustang. And today I’m going to be replacing the outer
and inner tie rods on both sides of this vehicle. Although I’m only going to be showing one
side because it’s the same procedure for both sides. The first thing you want to do is put some
penetrating oil around the jam nut as well as around the nut for the tie rod and let
them sit for a little while and soak. Ok once you’ve let it soak for a little while
you take a wrench and put it on the flats on the inner tie rod or if you don’t have
flats and you have a knurled area you can use vise grips. You hold the inner tie rod in place so it
doesn’t spin as you loosen the jam nut. Which can be easier said then done. Next you want to remove this nut. It will be on there pretty tight so it may
take a little bit of effort to get it off. Next we remove the tie rod end from the spindle,
however to do that the best way is to take a hammer and hit the spindle right here to
knock it out. The vibration will cause the tie rod end to
just fall out of the tapered hole. The problem is that vehicles equipped with
ABS sensors or speed sensors on the front end are very sensitive. Like this one right here. So it’s a good idea to remove this before
you start banging on the spindle so you don’t damage this relatively expensive, for what
it is, sensor. So put some penetrating oil on the bolt and
zip it off. Next take a pair of pliers and, sorry if I’m
blocking, but you take a pair of pliers and put it around the housing and rotate back
and forth to break up any rust or anything like that that may be holding the sensor in
place so that you can remove it without breaking it. And just wiggle it out of the way. So if you look, even though it’s a plastic
sensor there is a lot of dirt and grime and what looks like rust around it that was making
it difficult to remove. So you want to hit that with some PB Blaster
or penetrating oil to remove that rust so that it makes it easier to remove. So just tuck it up out of the way. And now we can remove the outer tie rod from
the spindle. Now if you are just replacing the inner tie
rod you don’t want to destroy the outer tie rod. So you don’t want to use a pickle fork or
anything like that to jam it in there and try to pry it out. You also don’t want to hit down on the top
of the screw because it can mushroom and then make it so you can’t remove it at all without
a cutting torch. So the best thing to do is basically hit what
the bolt goes through, which is right here. Take a hammer and just wack it a few times. There we go. So now that the tie rod is out you can move
the spindle out of the way so that you get a little bit more room. Hold the inner tie rod in place and then drop
your wrench and then rotate this and then count the number of times that it rotates. So one. Two. Three… Twenty one. And about a half to three quarter. Twenty one and about a half to three quarter. Now you want to write that number down so
you can remember it when you are putting it back together again. Now we need to remove the inner tie rod. It’s held on by, from the factory, by these
metal clips that are supposed to be one time use. But there are ways of removing it without
breaking them. But if you do it is not a big deal. You can just replace it with a zip tie. So the way I do it is I take a screw driver
of proper form or size and just twist without pulling it off the clips. Ah, this one is going to pop. Yeah, so I broke it. Oh well, not a big deal. So twist it a couple times to break it free
and then pull it off. We need to get to that thing right there. So now we need to remove this pressure clip
on the end of the bellows boot. It’s not the best camera angle in the world,
almost straight up, but it’s the easiest way to get this off with two hands. So now we can push the bellows boot
down and out of the way so that we can get to that. So now you’ve got to get a large enough wrench
on here. Depending on the manufacturer of the inner
tie rod this nut may be a different size. But in my case, this is a stock one and it’s
a 1 7/16″ wrench. And you can just turn it off. Just break it free. No special tools required for that. And there’s your prize. So we need to remove this nut so that we can
remove this bellows boot and transfer it over to the new inner tie rod. You want to clean out the threads inside the
wrack to make sure there is no debris or old lock tight or something like that in there
that will prevent the new inner tie rod from screwing in all the way. In my case it’s actually pretty clean so I
don’t have to worry about it. Now you want to compare your old to your new
inner tie rod. Specially you want to compare the length from
end to the flat on the back here. The point to that is so that if your new one
is longer or shorter you can adjust the number of turns when installing the outer tie rod
to account for the missing or extra threads on the end of the inner tie rod. In my case they are both the same length so
I don’t have to do any extra counting. So now you want to take a little bit of red
lock tight. Just put a strip of it like that, nothing
major, on the threads. Snake it into place and just screw it in. So now just tighten it down as well as you
can. You want to get it around 75 ft/lbs so it’s
a reasonable amount of force. Now you want to take the bellows boot and
just slide it into place. Install the little clamp that goes on the
bellows boot. Ok now you slide the bellows boot over the
end of the thing. So now take your zip tie or worm clamp or
whatever and install it into place. And there you go. Now the boot is secure. Here is your new inner tie rod. This is one made by MOOG. So one thing you want to do is if you look
closely there is a little bit at the top part that’s thinner then the rest. You want that facing inward. This is effectively the relief valve if you
pump in too much grease it’s going to relieve through this slot here. So you want it to be facing inward, not towards
the rotor. While you have it off it should be pretty
easy to rotate. Next you need to install the Zerk fitting
that comes with the kit. The hole doesn’t actually have threads in
it. That’s actually normal. Don’t think that you have a defective part. It’s actually supposed to be like that. The threads on the Zerk fitting itself create
the threads in the hole that it goes into. So make sure that you try to get it in as
straight as possible. I find it easiest to insert the Zerk fitting
off the vehicle so that I can ensure that I get it in nice and straight and secure. So just start the threads. Double check that it’s straight. It’s a 7mm end. Get it started. Lightly turn it. Make sure that you are still going straight. It’s going to be tough to turn because you
going to be cutting threads as you are turning it. You want it to bottom out. There. So you want it to look like that where it’s
completely bottomed out. Now if you are afraid that you are going to
damage this while you are trying to install you can remove it right now. It’s no problem because you just created the
threads that you need. In my case I’m not really that worried about
it. Next you need to take the nut that comes with
the inner tie rod and spin it on. So you want to spin it down close to the end. The reason being is that you want to add a
little bit of anti-seize to the threads here so that when you tighten this back up again
this nut will go through that anti-seize and be protected by it. There are a couple reasons why you want to
use anti-seize here. One is that it makes installing the outer
tie rod a lot easier. Two, it makes removing the outer tie rod in
the future a lot easier. These things don’t last forever. So chances are if you are going to keep your
car for a long time you might have to replace it again later. So just make your life easier. The final and most important, in my opinion,
reason is because it makes aligning the vehicle a lot easier. The tech is going to have to rotate the inner
tie rod to push the outer tie rod out and in. And if the outer tie rod is rusted on to the
inner tie rod that’s not going to be a very easy thing to do. This is going to make the alignment a lot
harder and it’s going to make the alignment less accurate. So do yourself and your alignment guy a favor
and put some anti-seize on the threads here. It doesn’t have to be a lot. Just put a little bit. That’s actually a lot. Oops. Now take your outer tie rod and spin it on
the same number of turns that it took to remove the old outer tie rod. Plus or minus any extra threads that this
inner tie rod has compared to your stock one. In my case they are the same so I don’t have
to add or subtract any threads. I just need to rotate it twenty one and three
quarters. One. Two. Three. Four… Twenty one. And three quarters. Thats it. Now you take the jam nut and spin it into
place. Sorry if I’m blocking. So then you take a wrench and lock the jam
nut down. That’s it. Now you should be able to rotate the entire
assembly to be completely straight up and down. Before installing it’s a good idea to put
a little bit of chassis grease around the top of the boot. This will allow it to swivel better once it’s
installed. So it will have less chance of binding and
tearing and premature failure. So stick the tie rod end. There you go. Take a little dab of anti-seize. Stick it on the threads. That will make removing it later, if ever
need be, a lot easier. Take the castle nut that comes with the tie
rod end. Spin it down. So now you torque the nut down to 59 ft/lbs. So now I’m not sure if you can see this or
not. But there is a hole in the stud that you need
to line up with the notches in the castle nut. So if you look it’s just barely out. I can only put part of the cotter pin in there. So I need to tighten this to make the notch
line up. Never loosen. Always tighten. There we go. Now you take the other end and rotate it up. And there you go. It’s all installed. Now don’t forget to install the ABS sensor. Because it’s plastic it’s a good idea to put
a little bit of silicone lubricant on the shaft here so that it will slide in easier. It won’t hurt anything. Clean out the bore that it went into. And then slide it into place. Once you’ve got it in place, put a little
bit of anti-seize on the bolt and thread it in. So now you need to grease the tie rod end. So you take your grease gun. Attach it to the Zerk fitting and pump it
up until it starts to squeeze out like that. Once it’s settled down a little bit just wipe
off the excess. I like to take the excess and put it on the
threads of the wheel studs. That helps prevent them from seizing up and
making it hard to remove if I ever have to by the side of the road. Just a little bit on each one. So do the other side now if you need to. It’s always a good idea to do these in pairs. If one is on it’s way out. Chances are the other one is pretty darn close. Now that’s it. Put the wheel back on. Take it straight to an alignment shop. While you make have gotten the alignment close
to what it previously was you definitely didn’t get it perfect. So it’s best to take it to an alignment shop
and have them align it so that everything is running true again. So I hope this video helped you out. If you have any questions, comments or concerns
please leave them in the comments section below. If you like this video please click the like
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