How To Replace Spider Gears In Ford 7.5 & 8.8 Open Differential – Ford Mustang
How To Replace Spider Gears In Ford 7.5 & 8.8 Open Differential – Ford Mustang


Hey this is another video by Pet Rock. Today
I’m working on my wife’s ’98 Ford Mustang. It’s got a 7.5 rear end with a 2.73 gear ratio.
So of course first you jack the car up. Take the wheel off and you want to put your jack
stands forward of the lower control arms so that the suspension can sag down as far as
possible just to give you more room when you are working on the differential. So we need
to remove the rotor and caliper in order to remove the axle so we can remove the spider
gears. Easiest thing to do is to just remove the mounting bolts that mount the caliper
onto the differential. Then you can move the whole caliper as a unit out of the way and
then remove the rotor. So I already have a video covering how to remove the rotor and
caliper and replace the brake pads and things like that. That covers all the information
you will need in order to do this quickly and easily and reinstall it when you are done.
Including torque specs and things like that. So for this video I’m going to remove the
caliper via the mounting bracket and I’m going to fast forward through it because I don’t
need to cover the same information twice in two different videos. Because we are going
to be working on the axle itself and banging around on the differential. It’s a good idea
to take a bungee cord or a piece of rope or something like that and tie up the caliper
so that it doesn’t fall. You don’t want to let the caliper drop and possibly damage the
hoses is here. Now we remove the rotor. Now you can see a little easier how much free
play there is in this differential due to the worn out spider gears. If your car has
anti-lock brakes like this one does you will need to also remove the anti-lock brake sensor
otherwise you won’t be able to push the axle in far enough in order to remove the c-clips
inside the differential that hold the axle in place. It’s very common for these things
to get stuck and also fairly fragile because they are just made of plastic. So you want
to be careful when removing them. They’re also pretty expensive for what they are. So
I typically take some brake cleaner and hose down both sides and wipe it down. This helps
remove some of the crud that’s in there so that the penetrating oil will have a chance
to get in there. You also want to get the hole that the bolt holding the sensor on goes
through. So next you want to get a reverse Torx bit. If you notice the star is inverted.
In this case it’s a Torx E8. And spin off the bolt. Then you wiggle the sensor. You
might need to use a pair of pliers or something to get better leverage. In my case it’s just
sliding out. And you slide the sensor out and tuck it up out of the way. Then you do
the same thing to the other side. OK next you need to rotate the carrier so that you
can get to this bolt right here. You do that by putting the transmission in neutral and
rotating the drive shaft by hand. So now you want to remove this locking bolt. It’s an
8mm. I would advise using a box end wrench, or in my case a ratcheting wrench instead
of a socket because most sockets will gets stuck between this distance right here as
the bolt comes out. So to prevent the differential from spinning as you try to turn it you just
take a pry bar and put it between one of the bolts and the case and that will lock it in
place so it won’t try to move as you move this. Now you may run into a problem like
I have where this pin won’t come out because it’s hitting right here. The way I got it
out was I rotated the drive shaft slightly so that the bolt lines up with this notch
right here and it comes right out. Next you need to remove this center pin and in some
cases it might just fall out. In my case it’s really loose. You just stick your hand in
the back and find the other end of it and push. It should slide right out. In some cases
it may take a little bit of force but once you get it out a little bit you can take the
pin slide it through the hole here and then pull on it to give yourself a little more
leverage. Then you want to rotate the carrier that way and due to the gearing the spider
gears will slide out. Push the other one through the other side and then pull it out. You need
to remove the little C-Clips that hold the axle shaft in place. You do that by pushing
the axle shaft inward like this and using a magnet or other type tool to pull it out.
Like that. Then you do the same thing to the other side. And now you remove the axle shafts.
When pulling the axle shaft out you don’t want it to drag against the inside of the
axle tube so you want to support it as you are bringing it out. And then you just put
it aside somewhere standing straight up. Once you get one side out you just do the other
the same way. OK now that the axles are out the side gears should just be free so you
just try to pull them out like that. Now remember there is a spacer on the inside of both side
gears. As well as the two top and bottom spider gears. So make sure that those have been removed
before continuing. Here are the gears. This is the old set. This is the new set. If you
have an 8.8 Ford differential you will have a different part number then this but the
parts themselves will be virtually identical except for the splines and maybe the center
shaft with not much difference. That’s why installing spider gears on this differential,
even though it’s a 7.5, also applies to installing spider gears on an 8.8. So if you look closely
you can see how these edges are rounded and the sides are rounded as well. That’s the
wear that’s causing the up and down play. If you notice the top gears don’t have that
problem. They are nice and square. Before you put everything back together again you
want to make sure that all of the new parts match the old parts. Now comparing the two
they look virtually identical except for the center pin. Notice the new center pin has
a little cut out right here where the old center pin did not. Now I assume this is for
clearance on some differentials because most of these gears are interchangeable on various
types of differentials. But in this case this cut out for this differential is not necessarily
needed. However, I’m not really that concerned about it because this area right here is not
the stress point on this pin. The stress point is actually on the top and on the bottom.
On the axle shafts you want to make sure that the o-ring, its kind of hard to show in the
photo but, in the video, but there is an o-ring in this slot right here. You want to, I’m
trying to wiggle it up and down. If it’s damaged or missing you need to replace it. I’m not
entirely sure what it’s there for but it’s probably a shock absorbed dampener thing for
the u-clip that holds the axle in place but it’s there for a reason so if you don’t have
it just install a new one. You also want to clean off and inspect the areas right here
where the seal and the bearing ride. Make sure there is no cracks or pitting or gouge
marks or anything like that. You also want to check the condition of the anti-lock brake
tone ring. Make sure it’s on here properly and secure because it’s only a press fit.
I’ve seen some where they tend to loosen themselves up and they will spin off which is bad. OK,
so now we need to install the axle. As you can see here I have replaced the axle seal
as well as the bearing. I’ve covered that in another video. I’ll link to that in the
description. In either case whether you are using a new seal or an old seal you want to
take a little bit of oil and coat the rubber part of the seal. You never want to install
something through a rubber o-ring or seal dry. You’ll just burn them up the first time
you start rolling down the road. So you take your axle shaft. You slide it in place. Making
sure not to damage seal. Trying to keep it nice and straight. Eventually you will feel
it go through onto the other side inside the differential. So that’s how far I have the
axle installed right now. The other end of the axle with the splines is resting on the
hole that it slides into inside the differential case. On some vehicles one axle shaft will
actually be longer then the other. So you want to make sure that you keep the one that
came out of the right side on the right side. The one that came out of the left side on
the left side. Now we need to install the side gears. So each side gear comes with a
small shim that goes right there. You want to coat that with a light coat of oil so that
when it first starts rotating it’s not going to be dry. You just need to cover it lightly
with a little coating of oil. I advise using gloves here too because again this oil stinks.
Just get a nice coating. Put it on the back and then slide it into place. Now you can
position yourself to hold the gear in place as you push the axle shaft into place. Like
that. Then you take the c-clip, making sure it’s nice and clean and you slide it into
place. Like that. The you push the axle shaft backwards to have it seal inside the side
gear. So now as the axle turns so too will the side gear. Then you do the same thing
on the other side. So like with the side gears you need to take the washer that comes with
it and coat both sides with a little bit of oil. Then you take the washer, stick it on
the back. It should hold itself there just based on it’s own spring pressure as well
as the oil that you applied. You take your top spider gear. You line it up within the
gears. Then rotate it into place such that it’s all the way in the back without falling
out. Then you want to take your hand, stick it through the back. Rotate the entire assembly
holding the top spider gear in place. You then take your bottom spider gear. You slide
that into place. And this makes it so that you can align both halves together and still
be able to manipulate things so that you can make sure that both halves are aligned and
be able to put the center pin in place. In this case I need a little bit of adjustment
so I can rotate one half slightly. Put the gear back in and now I can slide it all the
way through. That means that my spider gears are now lined up and I can rotate the entire
assembly into place. So now you hold the spider gears from moving and rotate the entire assembly
so that you can get access to this hole right here. So now you take your center pin. You
lube it up nicely and you slide it into place. Like that. So now once you’ve got this center
pin in all the way you make sure that hole that this pin will go into is lined up. Like
that. Slide it all the way in. Now you rotate the assembly to a point where yo can get the
pin all the way through. And on this vehicle there is a little notch right in here that
allows the pin to slide through. Now you take your 8mm wrench and tighten it down. OK the
torque spec for this pin is 15 to 30 ft/lbs. Now if you can get a torque wrench in this
space right here more power to you. But in my case I can’t, so 15 to 30 ft/lbs is basically
snug it down real good. So that’s it. Now we’ve got new spider gears all the way through
and a new center pin. So now if I rotate the assembly there is only a little bit of back-lash
and the gears are not moving up and down. They are not moving around. There has to be
a little bit of free play in here. Like this is OK. If you notice the amount of free play
that I have in there is actually causing the other axle to rotate. So you rotate it around
a little bit. Make sure that everything moves freely. Everything meshes nicely.Back over
to the axle and you reinstall your ABS sensor. Slide it into place. Put a little dab of anti-seize
on the end of the bolt to make it easier to remove later if you ever have to. Then you
take your E8 Torx head socket and snug it down. Once you get it down about finger tight
then you take your torque wrench and torque it down between 40 and 60 in/lbs. These bolts
are known for snapping and that’s usually from people over tightening them. Don’t just
try to snug it down because chances are you will over tighten. Use a torque wrench whenever
possible. I wanted to show a before & after of the amount of slop that was in this rear
axle. The amount of slop that is in here is the expected amount of back lash between the
pinion bear and the ring gear. There is a little bit of backlash with the spider gears
as well but it’s very minimal. Take your rotor, put it into place. What I like to do is I
like to take one of the axle nuts, lug nuts and spin it on all the way. This keeps the
rotor from flopping around as I’m trying to get the caliper on. Like I mentioned earlier
I have a video covering how to replace the brake pads and rotor on this vehicle so if
you need an in depth description of how to install the brake pads and rotors you can
consult that video. For this one I’m just going to fast forward through it. So the spider
gear kit that I got came with a set of break in instructions. Yours may or may not come
with it. The gist of it is just take it easy for a little while and but one key point is
to change the differential oil after about 500 miles to remove any metal particles or
whatever from the break in period. The rest of the procedure is just cleaning off this
surface, putting the cover back on and filling it back up with oil. I cover that in my video
about replacing the rear differential fluid on this vehicle. I’ll link to that in the
description. So I hope this video helped you out. If you have any questions, comments or
concerns please leave them in the comments section below. If you liked this video please
click the like button. If you want to see more videos like this please subscribe.

99 thoughts on “How To Replace Spider Gears In Ford 7.5 & 8.8 Open Differential – Ford Mustang”

  1. Gekkou Raion says:

    Dude i dont comment much on videos but by god you are a life saver like omg thank you !!!

  2. Kyle Gibson says:

    Thoughts on replacing the entire differential? My Mustang has an open differential, and I've been considering putting in a limited slip.

  3. Johnny Verbeeck says:

    It looks like others have already said the same thing, but THANK YOU very much! I expect I'll have to be doing this job very soon on my Mustang and you have made it very clear and understandable how to get it done. Good video. Good narration. Keep doing what you do!

  4. true wholesaleing says:

    Hey Pete my mustang differential fluid ran dry because i had a slow leak an my rear end went out it will still move back an forth when its in gear but has a dragging sound…..now if i perform what u did in the video would that fix it??

  5. ThatSN95Girl says:

    So, when I did my rear brakes and rotors I noticed that little bit of play in the wheels. Does that mean my gears are going bad and should be changed? Kinda wanted to put 4.10 in it anyway.

  6. KnightVideoEditing says:

    Thank you so much! My upper and lower spider gears came out unintentionally while replacing the axle seals and I was already expecting the worst as I didn't get them back in. Your video made it very clear and I'm happy to see how easy it is to get them back in.

  7. SuperSammy1977 says:

    Again, great job! Thank you.

  8. ima big girl now ok says:

    thanks for your videos they are very helpfull

  9. ArcticAstrophysics says:

    15 to 30 foot lbs is basically just snug it down real good, I like it

  10. Stephen StephenB says:

    I never comment on videos but after watching I have to say one of the best how to videos I have ever seen on youtube. My wife has a 2001 Mustang is it pretty much the same as the 98? She has a leak on the right rear seal and I noticed lot of play In the axle so it is probably due for some new gears also. Thank you again for the video I will share and watch all of your videos.

  11. AplJack says:

    10:25 – Right here is where I am having an issue with my reinstallation. The gear sleeve on the back doesn't seem to want to fit in the housing with the gear. Every time it slides the gear in the housing pushes the sleeve off the top. I tried applying pressure as I moved it, but just doesn't want to fit. Hoping you might have an idea or 'trick' to the particular situation.

    I've tried pulling the clipped axles out as tightly as I could to increase the spacing, but still giving issues. Any advice you might be able to give is appreciated.

  12. cermem says:

    good vid leared something i never knew before

  13. Dean Gamelin says:

    The o-ring is used for 2 things, when at the factory there less chance of the clip falling out during fast assemble, and if there is tension on the clip there will be less where on it.

  14. 1948steven says:

    Thank you for this video it was a tremendous help.

  15. OceanRide1 says:

    Well made informative video.

  16. tractor man TP says:

    nice job.

  17. Slow5.0 says:

    Hello, my 8.8 has a S spring. I was wondering if i need to put that back in.

  18. archie Morrissette says:

    good job hard to get lost good step by step

  19. max negron says:

    need  some help I have a 2003 mustang v6 changed the rearend gears to 3.73 when put it together the ring gear is blocking me from putting the center pin in

  20. Jon Smith says:

    In real time, how long should it take on average?

  21. Silicon Valley Engineer says:

    Congrats, this is the very best mustang rear diff rebuild video on youtube. A do it yourselfer like me and can watch this video while doing the actual rebuild and get the job done right. Score perfect 10

  22. PiercingPencils Art says:

    My Spider gears don't walk in that freely

  23. PiercingPencils Art says:

    My Spider gears don't walk in that freely

  24. icussdemise _ says:

    Great video, appreciate it. Plan to do this on an 85 5.0 thanks for the walk-through

  25. Texasknowhow says:

    Beneficial video. Appreciate you taking the time to film it. I have similar repairs to make on both a Dana 44 and a Ford 8.8 from a 2000 Explorer. This was good for a preview of what to expect on the Ford. Thanks again, Clay

  26. Thomas Gagliardi says:

    Excellent video! Very professional and helpful. Thank you Sir!

  27. Lino Acuna says:

    do u have a vid on how to change out the gears for example I want new 373s

  28. PiercingPencils Art says:

    After all that time, I eventually never got them placed back in and just ended up replacing the entire rear axle. But now I know some jobs I should just leave to the professionals.

  29. Quick Tips says:

    Your video made my job a lot easier. I was able to assemble spider gears, but was scared to attempt before watching your tutorial. Great coaching skills and thanks a million for sharing your knowledge!

  30. y2tommyk says:

    Thanks for the solid instructions man

  31. Eric Madx says:

    Im about to attempt this next week on a 01 explorer gears are so bad the teeth dont grab

  32. GAR A says:

    i need help my locking bolt strip i was using 8mm

  33. ForTheRightmetal says:

    if the center pin going through the spider gears is stuck what should I try?

  34. GAR A says:

    10:13 i didnt see that washers on my pinion gears i hope i didnt leave that thing out i have ford mustang 2003 base i am worried now

  35. 1InfinityShade says:

    Thanks for the video. A lot of people just say "put it back how it came out" and end their videos. You provide methods for everything and do it well 👍

  36. Chris Malone says:

    You're on of the best youtubers at describing what to do. Thank you!!

  37. Benjamin Krieger says:

    very helpful, saved me from having a heart attack. i did this on a 2010 crown victoria p71 . thank you.

  38. Greg Ruffino says:

    I inspected my spider gear on my 96 mustang 7.5 rear end Due to noise while turning, they are worn out, When I had the car jacked up and spun both axles, keeping the other one still, the noise was the same, Does that mean my axle tube bearings are likely ok, Just need the Spider gears?

  39. bakardy2011 says:

    for some reason i can't get the shaft to pull out of the drivers side.i removed the ring that locks it in but it snags on something. the passenger side pulled out easy. what did i do wrong?

  40. me cook says:

    Do you have to take the upper control arm off. The rear end of a 2004 ford explorer. To change the spider gears

  41. Todd Bagshaw says:

    question, about the rubber O rings on the inside of the left and right shafts. does it ride to the outside of the clips towards the splines or on the inside towards the center of the car?

  42. Dave James says:

    my spider gear on passenger side won't come out. axel is removed… I'm talking about the one that has splines for the axel. ford 7.5

  43. Wawa FlockaFlame says:

    I had a question my 2008 mustang v6 just got installed 3.73 from motive and an LSD from Yukon and I turned it into the shop they effed me over stang sounded worse than before it went in usually when coasting accelerating (unless I get on it hard, no pun intended) and decelerating makes a whining sound as if the rear end was dry. What do you think it is?

  44. Mark Pinckney says:

    TOO DARK

  45. Frank Jasso says:

    My 05 mustang is making a noise inside the differential yours was making gear noise when speeding at 20 mph to ?

  46. ireland jade says:

    FANTASTIC INFORMATIVE Going to attack this job rear driver side bearing starting to make noise thanx

  47. t hammer says:

    Is this a limited slip Diff? I don't have a LSD. I have to change my gears out and am not sure if it has spider gears in it or not. thanks in advance.

  48. Krankie V says:

    I never realized those thrust washers were in there. Any way to tell whether or not one of them fell out without pulling the diff cover and losing all the new oil? I had my axle shafts out today and accidentally spun the spider gears and one fell out. I put it back in, but now I'm wondering if one of those washers is missing… not good!

  49. jwrite54 says:

    I have a 2005 mustang the rear axle makes a rumbling noise but when I move the wheel back and forth the tone doesn't seem to change so I don't think its the wheel bearings there is no leakage in the pinion at drive shaft any ideas ??……………I have read everything from throwing a banana in there to quite it down ….. but after seeing your video it makes me want to fix it correctly.

  50. Vicente Mariscal says:

    I have decided my 4:10 gears are a little low as I have only been on the track once with it and now mostly drive on a highway to and from work. I have purchased 3:73 gears but am wondering if I need new bearings since the gears only have about 10K miles on them since replacement. (The entire rear axle was redone when I replaced the original gears.) '97 Mustang GT'
    Any adise?

  51. Markús Halldórsson says:

    4:28 That pin was a nightmare for me! It took me a long long time to get that motherfucker out. I had to use a angle grinder, sledge hammer and a lot of force and violence. That pin is a jerk!

  52. Anthony Alit says:

    great video! very well shot and very informative! thank you!

  53. CoryCDS says:

    man i can NOT line tgese spider gears up with

  54. Vicious E says:

    what if the washers on the small spider gears make the gears not want to go in place..can i just leave the washers off??

  55. Charles Murry says:

    Doesn't work in the 7.5" rear end in my Ranger, the pin won't clear the ring gear.

  56. Dean m says:

    hey bro, nice. what would cause excessive in out play on the axle shaft. very good videos very in depth and helpful for people who dont have wads of cash to keep their rides going or who just wanna learn. i dont usually subscribe but your videos are good and i have an above average knowledge of cars thanks

  57. Todd Barlow says:

    Really good video. Helped me a lot when my gears fell out when I was replacing my bearings. Thank you.

  58. Stacey Vasconcelos says:

    How about the S Spring?

  59. James P Powell says:

    Thanks so much for helping solve the mystery of how to remove the pinion shaft lock bolt! Mine was fairly stripped by the previous knucklehead so it had to be replaced. Thought I would have to remove the bearing carrier bolts. Yahoo!

  60. Leo Cadena says:

    GREAT VIDEO! THANK YOU!

  61. Mark Zanetti says:

    Excellent job. thanks

  62. JonDerrick Cannon says:

    Hey mine don't have the orings by the u clips. Could this be causing the play that makes it seem like my wheel bearings are bad? I have replaced them and problem is still there. I know the amount it has is not normal.

  63. travis ward says:

    What would happen if I forget a shim on the spider gear

  64. Jose Portales says:

    Are all years the same size?

  65. mafia631 says:

    Thanks for making this video. I will be doing the rear end on my 99 f150 tomorrow. Curious if the 7.5 and 8.8 is similar to the 9.75 which is what i have?

  66. ChallengeR/T915 says:

    Great info and down to earth. Great Job

  67. DELTA FLOSSY says:

    you are awesome….i got a piece together Commanche….has an 8.8 rearend…you answered all my questions and gave me a few tricks

  68. JourneyTotheTruthandTotalRandomness says:

    That was an excellent video. Short and thorough. Best I've seen this far. Nice job!

  69. In Motion Automotive says:

    Great video. You didn't clarify in the video, so someone may do unnecessary work, but you don't need to remove the spider gears if all you are doing is removing the axle shafts. I always just leave them in place.

  70. dash Lamb says:

    Thank you for a great video. It explained everything well. I intended on repairing a seal and axle bearing, but now I'm wondering if I should go ahead and put new spider gears in while I have it apart. It is a 96 Ranger with a bunch of miles. It did appear doable from your video, though I know "looks are deceiving."

  71. Jon Staten says:

    Very descriptive 👍🏻

  72. Richard Schetnan says:

    Thank you! Was having trouble getting the spider gears installed correctly, and this helped. Got it all back together again.

  73. Miller8424 says:

    Watched a few of these before I work on mine, yours has been the best one. Good Job!

  74. D G says:

    by far the best video for this subject!

  75. vkar vkar says:

    Awesome. … keep sharing knowledge

  76. Jeremie Parker says:

    Hey man just wanted to ask what lead u to the issue I know u said it had play in the spider.. But did it knock or cluck throughout the drive line.. I'm currently working on a 99 Chevy Suburban that has a Knocking in the entire drive line U-Joints are fine Yoke is also fine.. Can u offer any advice.. Thank u so much brother

  77. tomv tomes says:

    A thousand thank you's for the great video and explaining it so well!

  78. Kitsune72 says:

    Great video thank you, this made a few things little clearer and easier to see specially with the inside of the diff.

  79. Howard Schwartz says:

    Did you actually measure the backlash to verify that it's within spec?

  80. Nguyen Linh says:

    Hey, after reinstall differential on the right side on my 2013 Ford Mustang I have an issue which is when I make a turn to the right I can hear some noise from there. What the problem could it be?

  81. Stefan Buckley says:

    Thank you times 100! Your video re: spider gears saved me. Cheers.

  82. Tommy Welch says:

    Brake Sensor $53. bucks, i broke mine cuz i didn't see this vid before i replaced my axle seal,

  83. Tommy Welch says:

    i forgot to rub oil on the axle seal, do ya think it'll burn out ?

  84. Nic Parker says:

    Awhhh the good ol E8 tool. Now this dude is hard core. Bet he had to buy it to do the job, No sissy air tools for this guy..

  85. Michael Ward says:

    Very helpful thank you

  86. RO G says:

    What would be the break in period??

  87. Eduardo Malo says:

    very well explained boss man. idk shit about cars or know anything about "how to's" but ur vid actualy gave me the confidence 2 go out n try it my self 2morrow. my diffirential locked up on me lastnight i had to tow my car home so hopefuly takeing all that out cleaning it realy good and filling it bk up will fix it. i do have ALOT of back lash when puting my foot on & off the gas… SO MYB frm what iv learend so far i might need them lil circle lashes thigs replaced n get new 1s from what iv seen doing the oil change on it wont fix the back lash nor the winning on it but ill keep my fingers crossed. thank u if u have any pointers on ANYTHING I SHOULD KNOW B4 TEYING THIS OUT id appreciate it if u would let me know. thanks again 1 of the best vids iv watched so far hands down. thanks again.

  88. Eduardo Malo says:

    very well explained boss man. idk shit about cars or know anything about "how to's" but ur vid actualy gave me the confidence 2 go out n try it my self 2morrow. my diffirential locked up on me lastnight i had to tow my car home so hopefuly takeing all that out cleaning it realy good and filling it bk up will fix it. i do have ALOT of back lash when puting my foot on & off the gas… SO MYB frm what iv learend so far i might need them lil circle lashes thigs replaced n get new 1s from what iv seen doing the oil change on it wont fix the back lash nor the winning on it but ill keep my fingers crossed. thank u if u have any pointers on ANYTHING I SHOULD KNOW B4 TEYING THIS OUT id appreciate it if u would let me know. thanks again 1 of the best vids iv watched so far hands down. thanks again.

  89. melmac67 says:

    Was the play in the axels the reason for replacing the spider gears (guts)? Had a shop swap gears 2.73 to 3.73’s on 92 lx and noticed vibrations on the highway when reaching speeds of 70 and above. Would this application fix this issue or would I need need a complete swap (ring and pinion). Thanks for the tutorial, I will be attempting this in a few weeks.

  90. aux1z11 says:

    When I removed my pin bolt the pin dropped in the inside and got jammed inside the case and it was hell getting that slippery mofo back up , so make sure you push it from the back side as soon as you take the bolt out of the pin.

  91. Freddie the Eliminator says:

    Putting 3.55s in my Marquis. Wish me luck!

  92. Jay Bourbon says:

    Great video… How many miles were on this car? Is this common wear at certain mileage?Thanks in advance..

  93. Ryse says:

    I have a 96 v6 my car got towed one day and now my axel or something pops in and out most of the time it won’t move and drive shift does spin

  94. hickbilly bob says:

    On my lord.. I have drove myself crazy trying to figure out how to get some of them gears back in, the ones that the pin goes through.. It all of a sudden looks so easy. Thanks for the awesome video

  95. CALICOTV301 says:

    My gears and everything came out. Somehow the pin that holds it in came loose.
    Do I need to take the wheels off to put the gears back since everything is already out?can I just insert the gears and screw it back

  96. Katrina Reynosa says:

    This video is so amazingly informative… As a female I'm sure most would understand my worries and fear of replacing my spider gears, my father taught me basics growing up but not anything like this… I feel very confident going at this job after watching this video… THANK YOU IS NOT ENOUGH! I will post a updated comment once I complete this project… Thank you sooooo very much!!!!

  97. Ryan West says:

    I hope my gears go in as easy as yours did

  98. Doomzdayxx says:

    Thankyou for showing the spider gear alignment because every other cocksucker on youtube conveniently left this step out.

  99. ꧁꧂ Ꮧ Ꮼ S Ꮛ ꧁꧂ says:

    You mentioned this is Ford but it’s the exact same thing as my GM 7.5, I think I can do this 💪🏽, very specific and detailed video

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