How to Replace Strut Assembly 08-12 Buick Enclave

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for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and
next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of Thanks! In this video, we’re going to show you how
to replace a front strut with an unloaded strut from on this 2010 Buick Enclave. We show you on the passenger side, but the
driver’s side is the same procedure. The items you’ll need is that new unloaded
strut from, flat blade screwdriver, 8mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm, 22mm, and 24mm socket
and ratchet, 18mm wrench, torque wrench, spring compressors, a 13/16 spark plug socket, and
jack and jack stands. Start off by prying off your hub cap and then
remove these 22mm lug nuts. You want to just loosen them while the vehicle
is on the ground and then raise the vehicle up and remove them the rest of the way. Now the wheel will pull free. Pry up the cap at the end of your wiper arm
and then remove this 15mm nut. Then either using a wiper arm puller or just
pushing it in and out and using penetrating oil and pulling it off, you want to remove
the wiper arm, but a wiper puller helps. You just twist it. It pops it off the stud and you can pull it
free. Then you just want to repeat the process on
the other wiper arm. Now you need to remove these four clips, and
you can either use a pick and you just pry up the center of the clip and then pull the
clip up and out, or you can use a flat blade screw driver, pry up the center, and then
pry out the bottom. Remove this ground and pull it free. Then pry out this clip right here, and there’s
another one on the other side. You just need to pry them out of the body
of the car, peel off this adhesive pad from the cowl panel, and do the same thing on the
other side. Then pry up this clip right here on the driver’s
side of the cowl panel, and then pull up sharply on the cowl panel and it will release the
clips. Then do the same thing for the other side. Then you want to just pull this up. Make sure all the clips have released and
then pull the panel free. Now you want to remove two of these three
15mm nuts, and then the last nut you just want to loosen most of the way. Use a flat blade screwdriver and pry out the
clip that holds your brake line in place. Then an 18mm socket and ratchet you just want
to get the bolt on the end of the stabilizer link to move. You have it moving. Then use an 18mm wrench and then an 8mm socket
and ratchet. The 8mm socket and ratchet hold the stud into
place while you remove them with the wrench. You might have to a couple of times, spray
some penetrating oil on, re-tighten the nut, and then loosen it back up. You can see, it just pulls right out. Now remove these two 24mm nuts, and you can
loosen them up with a breaker bar, or you can use power tools. Once you get those nuts to a certain point,
just put them back on just a little bit, and then pull this harness out of here. Just make sure you put the nuts on so they’re
flush with the bolts. Once you get them moving, then take the nuts
off. All right, we’ve got the jack supporting the
suspension just a little bit, so this comes up nice and loose. You want to make sure that your steering knuckle
doesn’t pull too far out. Remove the nut. Now we just wire tighten this right here so
there’s not too much stress on the axle or too much stress on the hose here. Now with the strut out, you have to compress
the spring. I’ve got my spring compressors. I’m just going to tighten those up. This is a large spark plug socket and it’s
got an insert in here to hold the spark plug up. I’m just going to take a 90-degree pick and
pull that insert out so it’s wide open. Put a 7/8 wrench on here and then there’s
a 9mm socket and I have an adapter on it to get it to 3/8. This socket is on here really tight, so I
want to knock it off first. Now you can just remove that nut and pull
the top off with the spring and this pad. Take your new strut. Just loosen up the nut on the top and it will
just pull out. Take this boot, transfer it over and transfer
over this pad. Once you have that lined up, take the spring
and lower it into place. Then the same way you got the previous nut
off, you want to do that again to tighten this one back on. We’ll fast-forward as Mike does that. Before I tighten it up, I’ve just got my spring
there, which it’s in my cushion correctly. Make sure it’s right there on the platform
of the strut as well where it’s supposed to be. Then, just to preliminarily aim, this should
be facing towards the outside of the car, and then this stud here, the big one, should
be towards the outboard part of the car. Once you line it up, tighten up the nut that
holds the spring out of the strut, and then make sure it stays lined up as you loosen
up your spring compressors. Now feed the strut back up into place. You just want to push those studs through,
replace one of the nuts preliminarily to just hold it there, and then line up the wheel
knuckle into the strut. Then replace one of those bolts just to help
hold it into place. Then replace the other bolt, and you can just
hammer them in the rest of the way. Now just replace those two nuts. You can adjust your alignment, so you will
need to have your vehicle aligned after you install these. It looks like mine is pretty close to the
middle. The top one is fixed, but the bottom one you
can flex by pushing in or out on the knuckle. I’m actually just looking in behind. I can see a nice line where my old one was
sitting. I’m just going to line it up there and then
tighten it up preliminarily. I’m going to torque these to 120 foot-pounds. Jack the strut up into place. I’m just going to put these 15mm nuts back
on. I’ll preliminarily tighten them, but we’re
going to torque them once the vehicle is back on the ground with the wheel on. Take the harness clip from your old strut
and it just pulls out. Then you just push it into place in the new
strut. Then re-clip the harness into that clip. Push this clip back into the lower part of
the strut. Push the sway bar link back into place, and
then just replace that nut and tighten it up. Now you can replace the wheel, and then just
replace the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily in a crossing pattern. Then you want to lower the vehicle and tighten
these the rest of the way and torque each of them to 100 foot-pounds, again in a crossing
pattern. Then you can just line up and hit your hub
cap back into place. Now torque these three nuts up here to 45
foot-pounds. Pull out any clips that stayed behind in the
vehicle and push them back into place in your cowl panel. Then feed the cowl panel back into place. Make sure it tucks back under, under the hood. Once you get everything lined up, just start
pushing the clips back into place. Make sure that this adhesive cushion over
here goes back up and over, and repeat the process on the other side. Now replace those four clips. Just push in the lower part and then the center
to lock them in. Replace the ground and tighten it back up. Make sure your weather strip is back in place,
and then, for now, you can close the hood. Make sure these clips on either side of the
cowl panel are back into the body of the vehicle. Push the wiper arm onto the stud. Make sure it’s lined up where you want it
and then replace that 15mm nut and tighten it up. Put the cover back on the end. Now just repeat the process with the other
wiper arm. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by, your source
for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We’re the company that’s here for you on the
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