How to Replace Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly 02-05 Mercury Mountaineer
How to Replace Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly 02-05 Mercury Mountaineer

Brought to you by, your source
for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and
next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of Thanks. In this video, we’re going to show you how
to replace a front hub on this 2003 Mercury Mountaineer. We show you on the passenger’s side, but the
driver’s side is the same procedure. It’s the same part and similar process on
these Mountaineers for 2002 to 2005. The items that you’ll for this are a new front
hub from; a 14, 15, 18, 19 and 30mm socket and ratchet; a piece of pipe for
some extra leverage; 5mm Allen bit or Allen wrench; flat blade screwdriver; jack and jack
stands; and torque wrench. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry off the
center cap. Once it comes off some you can just put your
fingers underneath and pull it off. Then, use a 30mm socket to loosen up that
center hub nut and remove it with a ratchet and a pipe for some extra leverage. You can also use a larger breaker bar. If you have the benefit of air tools, you
can do this step later as you’ll see us do but we’re just showing you how to do this
in the beginning. Here you’d also want to loosen the lug nuts
up with a 19mm socket and breaker bar or ratchet and pipe. We’re just going to speed it up here. We’ve raised and secured the vehicle and we’re
using a ratchet or an air gun to remove the lug nuts, wheel and tire. Now, just open up this clip with a flat blade
screwdriver. You just have to pry the tab and pull it open. Then just pry the harness out of this clip
and pull it out of these three. Then you want to remove these two 14mm bolts. We’ll just fast forward as Mike does that. Now using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry
right here and that will push the piston in on the caliper and make it easier to pull
the caliper off, do it again down here, and pull the caliper free. Then you want to set it up and out of the
way so we’re just going to put it up here. Just to make sure it doesn’t fall down use
a wire tie to just secure it up there. Now, pry out your brake pads. The best way to tell the life left in your
pads: this little slot right here is a wear mark so you can see it pretty much goes away
once you have about an 1/8 of an inch of pads left. Like I said before, these pads have quite
a bit of life left on them. Now, remove these two 18mm bolts. You can see he’s using a piece of pipe for
some extra leverage. When you pull out the last bolt, the caliper
bracket pulls free. Now pull your rotor off. Now up here, you just want to reach down here
behind your radiator reservoir and just push on the tab on this harness and pull the harness
free. Then just open up this clip up here with a
flat blade screwdriver and pull the harness down. Now if you don’t have air powered tools, you
want to remove this 30mm nut with the tire on and the wheel on the ground. If you do have air powered tools, you can
remove it right now. Then just make sure the axle moves in and
out. Then come back here and you want to remove
these three 15mm bolts. We’re just going to start off by spraying
them with some penetrating oil and then using a piece of pipe for some extra leverage, just
break them free and remove them. Now a tip on these: I start with 1/2 inch
sized tools which are larger, heavier duty tools and once I get them loose I switch to
3/8 inch drive tools which are smaller and get in to the area a little better. It makes it a lot easier if you just turn
your wheel so that you can get better access to this bolt back here. Tap the hub with a hammer until it starts
to move out. We realize that we have a bolt still in the
hub a little bit so we’re just going to remove that and then pull the hub free. We’ll push the axle out of it. On the left is the old hub. On the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they’re identical and they’ll
fit exactly same. Take your new hub and push it onto the axle
with the ABS harness on the top and then just push it back into place. When you have it lined up, just replace those
three 15mm bolts and tighten them up. Then torque each of those to 75 foot-pounds. Now we’re just going to use our old clips,
so we’re just going to pry off the new clips and you could always just pry out your old
clips and push these ones into place. Ours are in good condition so we’re just going
to use them. Feed the harness back up and get it up over
the control arm and then just clip it back into that clip and push it back up into place. Replace the hub nut and just tighten that
up preliminarily. Take your rotor and push it into place and
then replace a lug nut just to hold it there while you reassemble the caliper bracket and
caliper. Now take your caliper bracket, line it up
and then just replace those two 18mm bolts and tighten them up. Then torque both of those to 85 foot-pounds. Just push your brake pads back into place
and it helps if you just apply some brake grease to the tabs to help them go back in. Now remove your wire tie and pull your caliper
back down. Move the C-stand and the brake pad and the
caliper piston is pushed all the way in. Then take your caliper and push it back into
place over your brake pads. You want to make sure that those slides push
down underneath and line up. Once they’re lined up, replace those two 14mm
bolts and tighten them up. Then torque both of those to 25 foot-pounds.Then
just push this back into those three clips, and then back into this bracket, and then
close that final clip. Wipe down any dirt that may have gotten on
your rotor while replacing the caliper and then remove that lug nut, replace your wheel
and then replace all of the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Then you want to lower the vehicle and tighten
them the rest of the way and then torque each of these in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Now torque that hub nut to 180 foot-pounds. Now replace your hub cap. Just line it up and hit it back into place. Then just grab your harness up here and push
it back into the connector until it clicks. Whenever you’ve done any work on your brakes,
you just want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then you want to do a stopping test from 5
miles per hour, then 10 miles per hour. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by, your source
for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We’re the company that’s here for you on the
Internet and in person.

35 thoughts on “How to Replace Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly 02-05 Mercury Mountaineer”

  1. Chalino Sanchez says:

    Do these hub assemblies have the bearing pressed in already? Or do you need to do it yourself

  2. Ron Woudenberg says:

    I can do this…excellent tutor…thanks much!

  3. Miguel Saz says:

    Excellent video,thank you

  4. Link the Duelist says:

    Thanks for the informative video. Just got the new parts from your website and will be doing this in the morning.

  5. Jeff Campise says:

    can you do the same thing for the rear wheel bearing hub? or do you need a press?

  6. Andrew Fallon says:

    Thanks for another great video. You make a nice, succinct, professional quality video time and time again.

  7. James Lund says:

    do all new hubs come with new rotors also?

  8. Virgil Bryant says:

    Got a 05 ford explorer my rear drive axle broke its some black oil I take everything off now it the axle I have to worry about how do I take that off if any no about it can you help me out thank you in have a good day

  9. Jeri Fortune says:

    Is this the same set up to replace the hub/bearing on the front of a 2006 Mercury Mariner?

  10. Matt Sayers says:

    Don't forget to go for a test drive afterwards. When I replaced the hub bearing on the driver's side the ABS light came on and it freaked me out until i took it for a test drive then the light went right out

  11. Russian Nick says:

    Thank you for this video. I was able to change my hubs at home because of it since I'm too broke to go to a shop

  12. Jeff Goodman says:

    Well the video was a great step by step video on how to change them out. But it isn't quite that easy. I had to heat the hubs up and use a sliding hammer with a hub remover to get mine off. They made it look so easy in the video lol. Yeah not the case .

  13. Aaron Galinsky says:

    1A Auto Parts
    For the 30mm socket for the axle nut, do i need a deep socket built specifically for axle nuts or can i get a regular 30mm and use that?
    Thanks in advance!

  14. Sean Brown says:

    What did you need a 5 mm allen for? watched a few times and didn't see you use it

  15. Anthony Cucinotti says:

    I hope you checked the air pressure in that tire. Lol!

  16. Fire Deptement city Of new York says:

    Thanks for the video, would that be the same process for a 04 lincoln aviator awd?

  17. Tony Yavuz says:

    What do I do with the 5 extra bolts that came with the hub in box?

  18. Collin Pohler says:

    thats a wear mark on the brake pad eh? its actually a chamber meant to help gasses from the pads that escape as the friction material heats up and wears when the brakes are applied against the rotor. its there to help prevent brake fade. good video though i realize this is meant for the average DIYer thats doesnt really care about that stuff

  19. Hector Emm says:

    Do you need to get an alignment after changing both sides?

  20. ExplorerMike99 says:

    Hey so I have a 02 Explorer XLT 4 x 4 and when I’m driving in reverse and drive in neutral with the vehicle rolling there is a whirring noise from the driver side sounds like the front it slows down the noise when I slow down and it speeds up when I speed up also there’s a slight vibration in the steering wheel and when I’m on the freeway and making a turn there’s a huge vibration I. The steering wheel so I’m 90% sure that it’s the wheel bearing do u think it is?

  21. Antonio Jackson says:

    Awesome video. For purposes of ABS, I was told that the first thing to do is to disconnect the battery because if not, then the ABS light stays on because the connection was tampered with. I plan on doing my wifes 2002 Explorer over the weekend. I plan on disconnecting it anyway, just wanted to know will it make a difference!


  22. Joseph&Terrah Flores says:

    Hey you guys are awesome thanks for the step by step process and the video is super clear that’s always a plus 1A you guys rock 💪🏽

  23. ROBERT DI MATTEO says:

    Watched your video and bought the Moog's from you. I've used your video's before and bought the parts from you. Your prices are great and your videos are always the best go to. You guys are doing an excellent service to DIYers and people who can't afford to use a mechanic or just like to DIY.
    Thank you !!!

  24. J_Galindo76 says:

    Does this apply to a 2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac as well?

  25. John Dalrymple says:

    Is there any good videos that you have done that involve replacing front differential on a 02 mercury mountaineer and another good question I have I know it has to have the same gear ratio but is there a differential that you would say was better made then the one on the mountaineer and also I’m not the best mechanic as in it’s not my everyday job so I think for me I would be better off to replace the whole thing then to just replace all the gears and bearing

  26. Shawn Hunter says:

    Thanks for the video. Would you recommend changing anything else while in this area, other than the brakes? Say at 150,000 miles?

  27. John Lee says:

    I like the video but you don't say that the bearing has to be pressed in. ? Does this come as a complete assembly with the bearing already installed???

  28. Matt Tucci says:

    Is that 60 dollar bearing still good?

  29. ThunderoesWOW says:

    My Vehicle does not have the 30mm nut and bolt on either side. Why is that?

  30. just zayit says:

    What if the hub was destroyed while driving and heated itself to the spindle where it couldn't be taken off as easy.

  31. Travis A says:

    I used a 29mm for the axle nut.

  32. Reg says:

    Is the hub nut 1-3/16” ?

  33. captain pancho says:

    Don't buy duralast. Installed them, torqued correctly, failed in 9 months. Livid.

  34. Archer Morales says:

    is it the same bearing for v6 or v8 engine?

  35. jenna kelsey says:

    Does the wheel bearing have to be pressed?

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