How To Replace Your Mountain Bike Fork
How To Replace Your Mountain Bike Fork

– Fixing a new fork to your
bike is a fantastic upgrade, and it can really improve the handling. It’s actually a fairly simple process to do yourself at home. So I’m gonna demonstrate by
fitting a new RockShox fork to my Nukeproof Scout. Really simple, this is how. (dramatic booming) As with any job, working on your bike, you’re gonna need some
sort of tooling to do this. Now, if you’re in a bike shop, there’s a lot of specialists tools such as this crown race puller
that you would actually need to do this job on a bike but fear not, there’s plenty of alternative ways. And although the correct
tool is always the best tool for the job, you can actually do this
with a very basic tool set. So you’re gonna need
some sort of Allen keys to remove the current
forks from your bike. You’re gonna need a
hacksaw or a pipe cutter, some way of cutting the steerer tube down, and you’re gonna need a file. And, of course, the all
important tape measure so you can actually cut the correct length of your steerer tube. So this is how you do it. (bike wheel spinning) So first things first, you need to remove your
existing fork from your bike. So obviously putting
your bike in a work stand is the easiest and best way to do this. If you haven’t got a work stand, then you definitely really
do need someone to help you with this task by holding
the front end of the bike up. So obviously you’re gonna need
to take the wheel off first, because that’s just gonna hinder things. Take your front axle or your quick release out of the bike there. Put your wheel aside for later. You won’t be needing it
until the end of the job. Then next up, you wanna make sure you remove the brake caliper itself and the cable routing
off your existing fork, and let that just dangle down. Obviously, you wanna make
sure it doesn’t hit anything. Next up is to just release
the actual cable guide on the fork itself until that
comes off the fork there, and just remove it. Make sure you don’t lose the little bolt. So, I’m actually gonna
put that back on the fork so I don’t lose that. Now moving on up to the stem there. You’re gonna loosen off
your stem clamp bolts, but don’t remove the top cap just yet ’cause that will, if you
have that off at this stage, the fork could slide out onto the floor and you lose all your headset gubbins. So just loosen off the clamp
bolts on either side there. This particular one is four
millimeter Allen key bolts, but it’s quite often a five
and sometimes even a six. Right, so they are ready to come out now. Now this is the bit you
need to pay attention for. So I’m gonna slowly undo this top cap now, and hold the fork at the same
time so it can’t go anywhere. I’m just gonna remove the top cap. Take note that the steerer tube here is about four millimeters
below the top of the stem. You’re gonna need to remember
that for the step later on. So whilst grabbing the fork there, I’m just gonna slide the stem
off the steerer tube there. I’m just gonna let this hang down. So I’m taking up my tube spacers that were under the stem there. I’m gonna put them on the side with the top cap next to them. Now the next thing is this
top plate of the headset, you wanna slide this up. So that is your top cap there. Then underneath that you have a spacer and the compression ring there, which is a split ring
that pushes into the top of the headset there. So make sure that stays in there as well. Then you have a washer
and the top bearing race. Now I’m just gonna let the fork slide out of the head tube there. Now sometimes you might find
that the lower bearing race sticks inside the head tube. So if that’s the case, just
keep your hand under that so it doesn’t drop on
the floor and get dirty. In this particular case, it’s come out on the actual fork steerer. So just to show you that, that is the lower bearing race. Then there is a little
spacer there or a seal, and then the actual crown race there is still part of the fork. Now this is something
we’re gonna need to remove, but before we do that, we’re just gonna give
everything a bit of a clean. Whilst the fork is off the bike, just take this opportunity
just to inspect the frame, make sure everything’s sound, there’s no rough, there’s no
damage, or anything like that. So just take a look at the
new fork and the old fork and see the differences. So the first one, you’re gonna notice, is the steerer tube on this
new fork is quite a lot longer than the old fork. So that’s something we’re
gonna have to trim down to the correct length. Now also, the crown race for the headset is still on the old fork, so you’re gonna have to remove that. Now there’s two main time of crown races. There’s the ones that push on, and then there’s those
that have a split ring. This particular one
has a split ring on it, which means this is gonna
be a lot easier to take off, and you don’t need
specific tools for that. Now also note, that on mountain bike forks you often see this little
recess here just underneath. That’s really handy for getting in an old, flat,
blunt screwdriver or a punch to loosen your crown
race and get this off. Now of course that is not the
correct method for doin’ it, but it’s one that I’ve
been using for many years, and as long as you take your time and use an old screwdriver, you never wanna use a
good, new screwdriver ’cause you wanna keep them
sharp for obviously reasons, it’s absolutely acceptable
to remove it like that. However, on certain forks, let’s just say you’ve got a
posh fork with a carbon crown or it’s a very lightweight fork, you don’t wanna be
sittin’ there with a punch and hammering the actual crown race off. So it is a very specific
tool for that job. Now, I’m well aware that
most of you won’t have access to a toolers, but I just wanted to show you this and show you why it’s an important tool. So this the Park Adjustable
Crown Race Puller . So this actually goes
upside down in a work stand, and you got these three blades here. The idea is you put your
fork steerer tube into this, and then you secure these blades underneath the actual crown race, and then you simply turn the dial to pull the crown race off. You might question that this
is a bit of an excessive tool for a job like this, but actually if you think that
on road bikes, for example, you got super lightweight and actually very delicate
components on there like carbon fiber steerer tubes and that, the last thing you wanna do is use a punch and put a big gouge into that. So these are the best way, and they’re really, really good for removing the crown races. But of course, fully aware that
most people won’t have ’em. I just wanted to make you
aware that they do exist. So if you have problem getting
one off on your own bike, you can always just take your fork down to the local bike shop
and maybe a pack of biscuits, and hopefully a mechanic
will have one of these, and he’ll help you get
your crown race off. (bike wheel spinning) So, I’m literally doing a
like for like fork swap here so I’m gonna measure the steerer tube with a trusty tape measure. Now make sure when you use a tape measure, you take into account
the bit on the end there can actually move up to
two or three millimeters. So make sure that is flush
against the fork crown. So, in millimeters here, so what am I, one, seven, four. 174, so that is the measurement that I need to make my
cut mark on the new fork. So let’s get that measurement there. Measure it up on the new fork there, and then I’ve just got a
fine flat screwdriver here to make a little score mark for reference. Now this is something before you cut, I can’t emphasize enough, measure twice, cut once. You do not want to mess this
up and cut this too short. I’ve seen this happen a lot of times, and it ends up being a very
expensive thing to get around because to replace your
steerer tube on any fork, it means replacing the crown
and upper legs as well, and that will of course
mean a full fork service to do so as well as the
price of that component. So make sure before you cut, you’ve measured, you’ve checked it, you’ve measured again,
you’ve checked again. The more times the better to be honest. (bike wheel spinning) now if you’re not doing a
like for like fork swap, and you actually wanna change
the front end of your bike maybe by allowing the
steerer tube to be longer and for more spacers, the best way to do this is
to put the fork on the bike. So put the crown race on,
assemble the stem on there, get it in a position you like, then make a mark above the stem. Then from that mark, you need to allow for that three to four
millimeters below that, which is where you make your cut mark. And the reason for that is when you tie it in the
stem preload cap on the top, it gives enough room to
actually pull out everything together to preload
that bearing correctly. If it’s a flush fit, you’re never gonna be able to tighten or adjust the bearings so there’s no play. And of course, if you
ride a loose headset, after awhile you’re
gonna damage the bearings and you could damage your frame as well. (bike wheel spinning) Now when it comes to actually
cuttin’ the fork steerer, there’s a few different
options available to you. Now the classic, or the
good old fashion way, is by using a hacksaw. Make sure you’ve got a
nice fresh blade on there, and it’s tensioned
correctly so it can’t snap or actually go skewer. So that is a good solid way of doing it. Now if you use a hacksaw to do this, you’re definitely gonna
need a metal file afterwards to make sure there’s no burrs, it’s nice and smooth on
both the inside and outside. As for keeping the blade straight, there’s a couple different
options for you here. Now you could get a
dedicated fork steerer tube cutting guide like this one, and the way this works is it’s
clamped into a vice ideally, and basically you put the fork
steerer tube through here, and you line up your cut mark with the hole, very simple, by eye. You’ll then tighten this clamp up, and that is where you make your cut mark. That is a fairly
foolproof way of doing it. It’s the official way of really
cuttin’ down a steerer tube and not gettin’ it wrong. You make a cut mark here,
the small piece comes off, this is the piece you keep, job done. However, not everyone’s gonna
have access to these tools and of course this is
a bike shop spec tool. These are really good. This is actually my own person one. Over the years, I’ve cut
a lot of steerer tubes, but you might not. You might only ever do
this a couple of times. You might not be able
to justify one of these. So something I do
recommend keeping ahold of is an old handlebar stem. Now you can use your old handlebar stem as a guide in a similar way. You can slide this onto your steerer tube, and using your multi-tool
you can tighten it up in a relevant place just like so. And then that is where my cut mark is. Make the cut mark there, it makes a nice saw guide, ’cause it’s an old stem, I’m not too fussed if
it gets anymore damaged, but it’s a good use of an old product. Now the final option available to you, and this is a really handy option if you don’t have the
luxury of having a workbench or a dedicated space to work on your bike, is by having one of these little fellas. This is a pipe cutter. So simply put, your steerer
tube would go in here, you adjust the disc until it contacts it, and you rotate it around
until you cut the steerer tube at your specified point. It gets a very accurate cut. They’re not the cheapest item of kit, but they’re really useful. And like I said, if you
don’t have the luxury of having a space to work on your bike, that can be better than having to have a bunch, a vice, a steerer tube guide, and a saw. Okay, so really the
correct way of doing this is by using a vice, using a
saw guide, and using a hacksaw. Now you can get away with
doing a mark of the hacksaw, using some sort of guide, improvising, by maybe leaning on it on a soft surface. You’re not gonna damage it, but you won’t beat this for an accurate and
correct way of doing it. So just lining up that in the vice there. Now of course this vice
isn’t bench-mounted here, but it’s mounted to a
really heavy lump of wood, and it’s more than
enough for this purpose. So the important thing is to make sure, if you’ve, for example, got
some accidental other scratches on your steerer tube, you don’t accidentally line of those up. This is your moment of
measure twice, cute once. Can’t emphasize that enough. So that is the line. I’ve even made a little
arrow by it this time, so I know it’s the one I wanna cut. So I’m just gonna slide this in, and then, by eye, I’m
gonna line this up in here, and then I’m good to make my cut mark. So, this is the moment of truth. If I’ve got this wrong,
it’s not gonna fit my bike, and I’m sure you probably
wanna see that to be fair, but I don’t want that to happen. So, make sure you hold
everything nice and tight, and nice, clean strokes on the hacksaw. (sawing) Get it going, keep going until
you’re through basically. And this is where having
a nice sharp blade will be beneficial for you. (sped up, high-pitched sawing) (tube clattering onto floor) So there we go. That is cut off there, but while I’ve still got the vice here, just gonna slide it
through a little bit more. We’re gonna tidy up as well. Just be careful cos there
could be some very sharp burrs around the edge there. You’re gonna get your metal file, and you just wanna make you
just smooth off the edges. (filing metal) Now also, you just wanna
use the rounded edge of your metal file, and do the same on the
inside of the steerer tube, because you do need that to be smooth in order to fit your headset
preloading star fangled nut. Now one very important thing to remember, when you cut your steerer tube down, you’re gonna get all these
metal, like, metal swarf, metal filing, metal dust everywhere. You do not want this anywhere
near the mechanical bits of your bike, especially bearings. So make sure you clean
your fork completely before you put it back together and get it in the bike. If you gonna blow this stuff on the floor, make sure you sweep it up
and get it out of there. You don’t want this stuff
anywhere near the moving parts where it can interfere with that. (bike wheel spinning) okay, so the folk steerer
tube is now trimmed down. So the next thing is to
reinstall the crown race. Now, as you know this earlier on, this one has a split race which means I have the luxury
of literally sliding this on, pushing it in place. Doesn’t need seating. However, if yours does need seating, then there’s couple
options open to you really. Now, the budget version is to
use a punch or a screwdriver to tap it into place. But really you don’t wanna be doing this unless you specifically
know what you’re doing because you can damage the surfaces that the bearings sits on. It won’t sit flush. That means you’ll get
tight spots in the headset, of course the bearing will wear, it’s not a good scenario. Now the correct method is by using a crown race setting tool. Basically a big, hard, toughened tube. You get different alloy inserts. They would sit over the actual race itself and you basically pick the one that sits the neatest on there,
slide this into position, and then you would strike it with a mallet to actually set it completely straight. And of course in this case,
I don’t need to do it. (bike wheel spinning) so you’re nearly ready to put
your fork back in your bike, but the last thing you
need is to install one of these little fellas. So this is a star fangled nut, and basically it sits
inside that steerer tube and it has thread on the
inside there for an M5 bolt. And the reason for that is, your top cap with that
bolt will screw into that, and they basically pull
everything together so everything is aligned
and taunt with the bearing so the bearings are
held, they’re preloaded, there’s no movement,
everything works correctly. So this has to go to
a predetermined depth. Now there’s really a
couple ways of doing this. There is the budget way of doing it, which would be using an M5 bolt. I wouldn’t recommend using the one that you’re actually using for your bike, use a spare one, and you’re gonna hafta
hammer this into place. Now you can do this, but there’s no guarantee that A, you’re gonna get
it to the correct depth, or B, you’re gonna get it in straight. So that is, if you’re
comfortable just using a mallet and not using the correct
tool, you can do it. However, there are dedicated tools for actually setting this
to the correct depth. There’s a couple of options available. So the older tool is like this one. You literally screw the
star fangled nut onto it, you line it up with the fork, and you hammer it in with a mallet. The other option is one of these, slightly more advanced
version of that same thing. You screw the nut on, you
align it over the steerer tube, slide that down, and hit that home, and, again, it’s the correct
depth to set it inside. Okay, so now with the
star fangled nut installed into the steerer tube and the
crown race in place there, I’m good to put the bike
back together again. Now although you don’t need
to have grease in there to actually lubricate
the bearings as such, it makes a really good barrier against water gettin’ in there, so I do recommend placing grease onto the actual crown race itself, and then just around the cup on the inside of the frame here, just where the bearing will sit. So, the seal and the lower race now, gonna sit them straight onto here. Then taking care to make sure the cables are orientated correctly, just gonna put the steerer tube back into the head tube
there, slide it into place, locate that bearing at the bottom there, and then put the headset back into the same place as it was before. So firstly that bearing goes into place, again, I’m just gonna
put a smidge more grease just around the top, just to act as a waterproof barrier, and then just make sure your steerer tube is fairly clean there, and you’re ready to start
putting in the other bits of the headset in. So the split compression
ring slides into place there. Have to make sure that the steerer tube can be pulled up nice and
taunt against those bearings. And you got that seal that sit in there. Make sure it has been
given a wipe actually. Seal sits into place nicely there. There’s the top cap of the
actually headset goes on. Then there are my stem spacers, and then it’s a case of
running that all the way back in again. Now I’ve got my nice little
gap at the top there. Just need to put this stem cap back on, and then nip this up. I’m not gonna preload
it too tight just yet, I just wanna make sure it’s
all on in the right place. Just make sure everything feels right. Now it’s time to get the brake back on. Now something I definitely
recommend doing, putting some fresh thread
lock on those bolts. Okay, so there we go. Successfully fitted the fork to the bike. The very last thing you need to do before doing a safety check, just make sure your headset
bearings are preloaded properly. So with the stem clamp bolts, that’s the ones that hold
the stem to the steerer tube, with those loose so you can turn the bars, line up your stem so it’s
inline with your front wheel. Good way of doing this is by
standing over the front wheel and holding it between your legs, and you get that nice line of sight, lining up your top tube
of the wheel and the stem. And then tighten this bolt. You don’t wanna be over tightening this. This is literally, the
tool has no movement, but the handlebars can still move freely. As soon as there’s any friction there, you’ve gone too far and you can actually damage the bearings. So with that nice and snug now, I’m just gonna tighten
up my stem clamp bolts. Everything is in place, we’re good, the wheel is safe, the
front brake is safe. That means we’re basically
good and ride the trails. The last remaining thing
would be to set the fork up, and we’re actually gonna look at that in the next Essentials
series on GMBN Tech. So there we go, we
successfully swapped a fork, trimmed it down, and
reinstalled it with a new one onto a bike. So hopefully that’s been
a useful video for you. It’s a really fun upgrade to do, and definitely does improve
the handling of your bike if you’re gonna get a
better fork on there. For a couple more great videos, click down here for our
Essentials playlist. So, that is all the basic stuff, but it’s really essential for
everyone to know that stuff. And if you’ve got press
fit bottom bracket issues, click down here. That has everything you need
to know about maintaining it, and making sure they don’t creak. As always, click on the round globe to subscribe to GMBN Tech. We love having you here, and make sure you tell
everyone about us too! If you like looking after your bike, give us a thumbs up!

100 thoughts on “How To Replace Your Mountain Bike Fork”

  1. GMBN Tech says:

    Anything you'd like to see in our essentials series? Let us know in the comments!

  2. Jack Beames says:

    Sam pilgrim?

  3. Herby says:

    #askgmbntech is there any disadvantage of overspending grease in a headset? I normally put grease between the spacers, and between stem and steerer tube. I just got a new Canyon Spectral al 6.0 and i took the forks off just have a look how it works in there and i noticed, that there is much less grease inside than i would put in. Thanks

  4. Edwin Parson says:

    fascinating, never seen the official tools before… thanks Doddy!

  5. Perseministeri says:

    offical way is to put 5mm spacer top of stem so stem tightened against tube and not air

  6. Goodman 4525 says:

    I was wondering how long you guys would allow the recon to stay on the Scout

  7. Steve B says:

    Head choob… steerer choob

  8. Miku Cavendish says:

    You can use a pvc pipe as a crown race setting too as well.

  9. TomaCukor says:

    My crown race was a bit too small. Tried everything, heating up, banging it. Ended up filing just a bit around the inside. Turned out perfect.

  10. Faltu Man says:

    Is the old one recon silver ? And what is the new one?

  11. Adam Ward says:

    Dig the apron.

  12. Tomi Saaranen says:

    Really cool video

  13. Crazy Czech says:

    I took my fork to the bike shop to set the star fangled nut. Took them a minute and they did it for free. PVC pipe and a cap for the crown race setting. Make sure you have the pieces of the headset close when you are putting it back together because you have to hold it in place which can be a pain by yourself.

  14. Riding With The Reid's says:

    How much for the old fork?? 😉😉😁

  15. antonio stefan gabriel says:

    i have 1 question, can i fit a tapared fork in a straight frame?
    i´ve seen some adaptors in the internet but i dont know if they will work and if there is any draw back of installing a tapared fork in a non tapared frame. thanks

  16. Riding With The Reid's says:

    Oh a serious note. Nice video guys! Just swapped out my fork last month w/o watching any videos. Had to take my new fork to REI amd them cut the steer tube down and set the star nut. They did it for free and the rest I did myself. Can't complain!

  17. 409 NAPALM says:

    wonder how many did it the sam pilgrim way

  18. Krigloch theFurious says:

    Luckily I had a buddy of mine, who's a mechanic, do all that for me. But this video was really badass. You should really emphasize taking pics/video of headset configuration. So much easier than trying to remember the order of those pieces. Also, what fork is that?

  19. pheno finder says:

    Great videos! All of them!

  20. Xavier Froment says:

    Men i just replaced my old rx recon by a bos dizzy on my scott spark, and what do i see? This video when i just finished 😡

  21. GOTDICED says:

    I just bought a 2012 Marzo 66 CR, but its 180mm and I use it in a 2017 26player frame. Both are tapered, could I actually snap the headtube, or I just mess up the bb? Thanks in advance 🙂

  22. James Donovan says:

    GMBN essentials > Park Tool tutorials

  23. KennyMinigun says:

    What is the reason of using a hacksaw over a pipe cutter? (unless a carbon fiber steerer is being cut)

  24. KennyMinigun says:

    1. for crown-setting tool one can use a PVC pipe of a proper diameter. Works just perfect and no possibility of scratching bike parts. To make "the tool" look even fancier, consider a end cap for the PVC pipe
    2. For installing star-fangled nut use a long M5 bolt with two nuts holding a wide diameter (a bit bigger than a steerer tube) washer on the correct height. So at the end it actually lines up the star-fangled nut with the steerer tube cut.

  25. P B66 says:

    If your fork travel is 140 is it possible to go up to 150 travel if fitting a new fork

  26. Steve B says:

    I prefer using the pipe cutter. No mess to clean up. It does ruin the pipe cutter after about a dozen forks. They're made for copper and plastics

  27. mental mtb says:

    You can always get the steerer pressed out of the crown which is so so much cheaper

  28. Simon Metzger says:

    Hello I have a question,
    I ride a Santa Cruz Nomad 4 with an cane creek 40 headset, the headset was delivered with a thin metal washer/spacer do I need to use it and if so were? Thank you in advance.

  29. POVMTB says:

    i work as bike mechanic in bike shop, and i watch this anyway, even though i know how its done

  30. Saray Guerra says:


  31. Emiliano Avilés says:

    Can you give me your old fork please I really need it because I have a hudrolic one an it is pretty bad I really need an air fork

  32. Tim Müller says:

    Is it possible to build a wheel with a 32 hole rim and a 28 hole hub??

  33. Adrian Achim says:

    Waiting for my fox 36 just cant wait to practice what you just showed

  34. Dylan M says:

    I could do with a good new set of forks to I've got a suntour 100mm travel fork with a coil 😂

  35. Johannes Nilsen says:

    I clamped the fork to the Park tool Prs3.2.2 stand, and but I lowered the stand , I clamped the steered, but it was s straight steerer tube so that was not a problem, if you want very short steerer with taper this will be a problem, but I guess you could clamp the fork via the lowers.
    11:56 I also used lube to avoid metal debris in the air & for lubrication, it's a must in my opinion, it really helps, for me it took few seconds to cut the steerer, it was very simple.

  36. Johannes Nilsen says:

    14:51 or you could get a compression plug instead, which is reusable and is much easier to deal with.

  37. jaakko200987654321 says:

    if anyone has a 275 scout and looking for a fork upgrade, go with a 160mm fork (it will make the bike feel WAY better and also it slackens the bike to 62deg HA)

  38. jaakko200987654321 says:

    "old handlebar stem" uses 100€ hope stem

  39. colin p says:

    i've just pressed a crown race on by assembling the headset and fork on the bike and tightening the top cap til the crown race sits flush and then back it off til it turns freely

  40. Jun Tion says:

    How do you remove really wrecked allen bolt on your stem? Tried to saw it and use screwdriver but didnt work thats why its wreck. Please help. Thanks

  41. NG MTB says:

    sam pilgrom all the way!!!!!!

  42. Shaun Harwood says:

    Tip! @6.30 mins, the reason why the end of the tape measure is loose is so it counteracts the thickness of the metal hook from when you measure with it hooked over the item or pushed up against it, it will give the same measurements to the millimeter. Lol now you know why the hook at the end of a tape measure is loose!👍

  43. Baha Keskinsoy says:

    Could you make a video where you build those tools like a budget version?

  44. Alex Paulsen says:

    Nothing against your beloved sponsor, but Ice Toolz (aka Lifu) do a much simpler crown race tool, which clamps in under the crown race, and just taps off with a dull "percussive instrument" aka hammer (or shovel, if you're Sam Pilgrim). Definitely a more viable option for a home mechanic. Alternatively, get creative and make your own.

  45. Alvaro Q.F says:

    In the worst case you will need so many specific tools that you will double the value of a new fork hahaha

  46. Ben Lance says:

    Just watch ama pilgrim do it haha

  47. nick the car guy says:

    Anybody know of a good budget straight Steerer 29er fork with 120mm of travel?

  48. mtb for Life17 says:

    I just got a new fork yesterday and i installed the star nut, but it wont preload the headset. I was tightening and it never would fully tighten or even stop the headset movent. When i took the top cap back off the star nut was almost completely pulled out of the steerer tube. Any suggestions as what to do now? I might go to the lbs and see what they can figure out

  49. David Scott says:

    I actually just did this for days ago! Lol

  50. Danny K says:

    Why don’t you just use the pipe cutter that’s seemed way faster

  51. Jumari Albert Gonzales says:

    #askgmbntech #AskGMBNTech
    please help please help
    hi doddy! I have my Rockshox tk30 gold fork but it seems that it's not supple and responsive to small bumps. When I try to compress it, it's quite hard and I still have to put great effort just to feel it compress. I tried adjusting the rebound adjuster but it always feels like it rebounds too far up and makes a sound like it hits something right after it comes back up after compression, except when i set the rebound to the slowest. What should I do to fix this?

  52. stefan vlogs says:

    Can I have the old shocks pls forks

  53. boomerangfreak says:

    Hey doddy, what's your opinion on using a compression bung (like the hope head doctor) on a MTB fork? I know these are used in carbon steerers of road bikes but would they also be good on a MTB's alloy/steel steerer? In the end there's not really any stress put on it when riding right?
    I am not too fond of star nuts tbh and it seems if you get a good compression bung you could just keep swapping it between fork/bikes instead of buying new star nuts all the time. #AskGMBNtech

  54. Arqom Noval says:

    My 2012 KHS Lucky 7 has 1.5" straight head tube (not tapered).. any recomendations for the new replacement headset? Seems nobody made 1.5 to 1 1/8 headtube shims these days.. (for the top bearing)..

  55. Salvotation says:

    I prefer Sam Pilgrim's how to's on fitting a fork.

  56. Houman Hn says:

    hi doddy i have rockshox pike rct3 27.5 fork its new
    The problem is when i put weight vail pedaling the fork goes down even when its on lock and the air pressure in the same when it goes down it doesn’t have any air leak and in my country (iran) no one have serviced this fork
    It goes down when there is continuous weight and ut wont com back up i have to pull it up my self but when i jump and ride trails its great#askgmbntec

  57. Adrian Larson says:

    Being a Minnesota native, I just find it really fascinating along with baffling, weird, strange and definitely perplexing that THE major bike tool manufacture (yes there are others) – Park Tools – was started and still based in MN.  Sure, MN sure has its bike trails, like any normal place really, but it’s not like a biking mecca where you take a pilgrimage to ride its trails (if you do, I find you very strange indeed).

    But I guess that’s the quark of history for you, it’s has no rhyme or reason.  Someone needed to fill a void, in this case bike tools and MN was the destination.
    **There’s no need to add that PT are out right ridiculously overpriced (amounts to stealing really).

  58. mpgt says:

    Doddy… you forget to torque (and talk about) the stem's bolts

  59. bjornE46 says:

    Great video Doddy,

    But I have some important remarks regarding your metal cutting and filing skills.
    1) you push on the hacksaw on the way back. You shouldn’t do that as this will make your hacksaw go blunt fast.
    2) same applies to the file.

    Files and saws only have 1 cutting direction.

    On the stroke back you really should the tool rest on the object on its own weight. Or ideally lift it.

    And finally; the hacksaw doesn’t seem to be that sharp, judging by how long it took to saw through and the sound it made.

  60. FrankyTown says:

    What's the purpose of the star fangled nut exactly? You said that with the top cap it helps align and tighten everything up but I don't get how that works exactly

  61. Matthew Gies says:

    Whoops, I think you'll find your star nut is threaded M6, not M5. The stem pinch bolts are usually M5, though.

  62. Mury 2506 says:

    I have a m6 bolt in the sarr nut

  63. Kurtis J. Kopp says:

    Clean, cut and dry video, eloquent descriptions and informative on the range of variable thank you! Kinda weird this popped up in my feed just as I've ordered Reba forks. Who's spying on me?

  64. NM Nate says:

    I think we'd just see bigger rotors / calipers before dual front brakes – just look at dirt bikes, basically the same configuration. Just bigger.

  65. traingp7 says:

    This is one of the reasons I like my lefty fork I don't need any of those tools if I decide to upgrade to a newer model Cannondale makes.

  66. Amr Nail says:

    I got a few questions. Where do i get "star fangled nut"? How do i know i need one? And how can I tell what kind of steerer tube (1 1/8 or tapered?) I have without removing the fork?

  67. Joe Wakelin says:

    Hey! I got a Sommet VRS with Rockshox Lyrik fork in May. Just went to Adjust the rebound before heading out on a ride and the adjuster just kept clicking in both directions and never comes to a stop. Any ideas what this could be or how to fix it? Can’t find any videos on anything on this topic. Everywhere simply says to adjust to full slow position and work backwards but it never stops! Please help! Thanks

  68. miguel cintron says:

    how high is the avg. stem/handlerbar for a 5'-8" mtbiker ( i mean so i can cut the fork steering tube )

  69. wakeywarrior says:

    You said at the start it was easy!

  70. ws lee says:

    What ind of metal file should I get? Is sandpaper ok? How much roughness of the file or sandpaper is fine?

  71. Reimarc Liquigan says:

    Can you use a staight steerer tube to a tapered head tube?

  72. Deepak Bagwari says:

    i replaced my old fork with the new one and the fork is jerking while pressing front brake. any suggestion where could be fault ?

  73. Snitchy1989 says:

    i have RockShox XC32 forks on my hardtail… I loosen the stem clamp bolts and then remove the top stem bolt completely, but my forks dont drop out… ive tried putting a bit of wood on the top and tapping it with a hammer and everything… Am i missing something here? or is it just siezed in?

  74. Patrick Coombe says:

    step 9: buy a $400 specialized tool you'll only need once

  75. GOPRO MOUNTAIN Bike says:

    Love your videos awesome awesome amazing awesome awesome I do mountain bike for 2 hours can you teach me how to do it fork

  76. Jack Thomson says:

    weird flex but ok with that crazy tool haha

  77. Richard Paterson says:

    great video guys. Now I know why my LBS made such a bodge of putting in new bearings. They obviously don't have the correct tools. At least I how know to take it apart and do it correctly.

  78. d1qpi Vihiniemi says:

    What kind of grease are you using at the 15:40 timestamp?

  79. Simpl says:

    Doddy is like a smart cool and much nicer version of Ross from Friends. He also talks in cursive.

  80. Dave says:

    Brilliant. Just what I needed

  81. Timothy McCorkle says:

    old fork measured 176mm Not 174mm.

  82. Luke Whyatt says:

    Perks of being a plumber

  83. Dan Keppler says:

    Tomorrow mornings post DH downwill watching project. Thanks GMBN

  84. Mike Wallace says:

    Lies! All LIES!!! You didn't do a like for like fork swap, you added a 5mm spacer in the end! 😀
    Btw, I don't recommend using a pipe cutter on a carbon fork, you'll crush the steerer tube.

  85. onigk61 says:

    i have a gap between the bottom of my headset and the top of my forks. ive tried to tighten the bolt but it doesnt bring them together. any help?

  86. The Splixter says:

    This was such a helpful video! Thanks for all the advice.

  87. that peach says:

    Know how to do this.


    Still enjoyable to watch.

  88. otto dog says:

    I cut aluminum using a power miter-saw.

  89. Ashraful Haider says:

    Wil it work with potato cycles

  90. Western Dreaming says:

    doddy, more show and tell vids, ty

  91. LuisManuelHdez says:

    Yep measure even 3x !! I cut a brand new Rock Shox Sid too short and had to sell it at a big loss. Not a happy camper.

  92. OneWithStache says:

    That pipe cutter worked the best

  93. Libson S says:

    Starnut has m6 thread 🙄

  94. vicTTRS says:

    Doddy is the master.

    Here in Mexico we would call him: Doddy es una verga.

  95. James Salyards says:

    How many forks did you buy for one bike doddy

  96. zerocooljpn says:

    I changed my fork, and I'm pretty sure the crown race is straight, but I notice my bike now has a tendency to turn left by itself… it's a very weak force, but if you ride without hands, you can feel it. Any hints on what could be the trouble? it is kind of an old frame, and I actually replaced the fork as my old suspension had broken (the coils didn't bounce back) and I rode it like that for like 1 month or so.

  97. Low Ryder says:

    Please stop smacking your mouth after every sentence

  98. Mantas Jaškevicius says:


  99. Kevin Gliebe says:

    If you are not using a carbon steerer tube (regular steel or aluminum fork), using a pipe cutter or tube cutter is way easier and cleaner than a hacksaw. Just sand the cut a bit when you're done. It makes a super clean and perfect cut.

  100. bipedalame says:

    Hiring expensive bike tools??

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