How to Service Wheel AUTO-LOCKER Hub Bearing/Brake Disk Rotor – Nissan/Isuzu/Infiniti – Pt.2/3
How to Service Wheel AUTO-LOCKER Hub Bearing/Brake Disk Rotor – Nissan/Isuzu/Infiniti – Pt.2/3


Now we’re going to swap the hub bearing to the new rotor(disk) this is our Hub-Bearing in the back is a (Dusk/Water) Seal this is our ABS (Anti-Lock Brake Sensor) pulsing wheel.This is for the Anti Lock Brake I’m gonna show you how we remove the seal and a rear bearing so we can clean up the in side. Pack it with new grease Our bolts come with a locking washer do not forget the locking washer it make sure that the bolts does
not come out during vibration(movement) i will also recommend that you put some
oil on the threads preferably some sealer it will be very wise to use some sealer
on the threads because this is a truck and it will be going into water water will ten to seep in between the threads and over time you will have (build-Up of) corrosion on these little threads once you have corrosion the ability for the fast to hold
a component to its attachment becomes weaker and you will start noticing squeaks and
rattle on the vehicle so don’t forget but some oil or sealer on the tread of any bolt/nuts that will become submerge and water this is our bearing and this is our seal We`er gonna clean them up and place them back into the Hub (Support) In here Is the break sensor ABS sensor.also we are going to clean with sand paper a little just scuff it up a little Now you can see we clean the rotor up. So make sure you inspect the bearing race That`s in here inspect the race (inner & outer) of the bearings Make sure there is no rough surface which was absolutely smooth/perfect. and you cannot feel anything then you will know you have a good bearing (race) so that`s it , clean it up Clean up the bearing and then assemble back the rotor(disk),And put it on the spindle. don’t be afraid to grease, the more the better. this is our seal,It`s still in good condition make sure the spring Is still behind the seal its VERY IMPORTANT Focus Now we are going to replace The locking (threaded) nut you will know to replace the Nut by looking for this friction surface which will face the bearing You really don`t want to tighten down too much on this This Nut right here you just want to tighten it enough so the rotor (Disk) spin freely but you have no movement back and forth play so when you pull and push on the rotor (Disk) You should have No movement back and forth but the rotary should still be is able to free wheel O.K. this locking washer is what hold the bearing together so it’s very important that when you
put this washer back in it goes into these little ears in the
side Here. and you also have your threaded hole line up with your two Phillips screws so this is very important remember you have to get this Nut tightened so the Rotor still rotate but you don’t want any end-play that’s the back-and-forth movement Now on the back of the clutch (DOG) had a Lug that has to be aline into the spindle (shaft) so make sure these two lugs are sitting in the spline/Lug and we will replace or washer and our locking “C”-Clamp/Clip make sure your “C”-clamp it locked into
the groove Grab the rotor (disk) make sure it does not come forward(off) don’t forget more grease the better you will also cleaned up inside and put new grease in there(4X4 Hub Locker) we also have an “O” Ring(rubber) on the cover make sure the “O” Ring is in good place/condition Now the Cup(4×4 Hub Locker)might be a little Hard to install that’s because of all the grease Is preventing us from really sliding
The Cup (4×4 locker) on to the Hub(bearing/support)

42 thoughts on “How to Service Wheel AUTO-LOCKER Hub Bearing/Brake Disk Rotor – Nissan/Isuzu/Infiniti – Pt.2/3”

  1. Mark1944089 says:

    U do good work, check out my YouTube playlist & u can learn something also.

  2. CAVEMANTACKLE says:

    THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR GREAT CLIPS

  3. sTeVeXNYCPerformance says:

    your welcome.

  4. ElAlfarero Montreal says:

    Thanks for share good work

  5. liam kijujh says:

    part 3 of the video is not working . thank for part 1 and 2 from a man in ireland

  6. sTeVeXNYCPerformance says:

    Thank you Very much Sir. Thank you for the correction. Respect to you in Ireland.:-)/

  7. Ben Murphy says:

    great videos! thanks for your time to make them!

  8. elementboy2 says:

    You sure didnt pack the wheel bearings right nor would I have re-used the inner seal again..

  9. Roberto Mysterioso says:

    Very informative and clear video. Good job. Are you in NYC? I need my front brakes replaced/repaired. Send a note to my in box.

  10. James Rock says:

    U DA MAN!!!!

  11. aneyesky says:

    nice job. Thanks for the info,I'll be doing axles on a 1998 Pathfinder soon. One thing I noticed that might help you is wearing those foam knee pads.You're still young enough,but they are a real saver when working around the front end.Again,thanks.

  12. gerardfeetup says:

    Loving your video. Great stuff. Well done.

  13. Salvation says:

    very informative, I would say messing with those bearings and seal on gravel could be a bad idea. If one little piece of dirt gets in those bearings it could be a disaster. I would'a went ahead and changed those bearings and seals too. I got my xterra apart right now. This video did help a great deal since they are very similar. Thanks

  14. Kel K says:

    good work dude helped me enuf to get job done u just need to edit ur shit a little thats all wathcin ya loosen or tighten bolts needs to be edited thats all awsum work dude.

  15. William CRAZY LACY Furmage says:

    I have a 1991 Pathfinder that is only 2WD. I was trying to tighten the front router. It's not the cotter pin type. It looks like the setup here in your video???

  16. Rick Spanjer says:

    If you Enjoy Great Vocals Come check out Self Confineds Singer Jimmy at goo.gl/TzNdd7

  17. Abiel Rodriguez says:

    7:14 hammering the seal along with bearing? I would have hammered or pressed the bearing first, then install the seal and gently tap it in

  18. Jimmie King says:

    Good Job. You have some good Videos friend. Keep-up the good work.

  19. Eric Carrera says:

    like the video very helpfull

  20. Andrew Yonkofski says:

    I'm having trouble getting the outer bearing over the threaded part of the spindle and onto the race on the spindle. Any thoughts? Truck is torn apart now, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

  21. Michael says:

    great video thanks mate!

  22. Venturing Outdoors, GMarin says:

    Great video. My only concern is about preloading the wheel bearings. According to the factory service manual FAX-7 on a 2004 Nissan Xterra, which has this exact same set-up, it requires the wheel bearing lock nut to be torqued to 72 ft-lb to preload the wheel bearings then backed off to 0 ft-lb, then tighten back to 13 in-lbs(barely hand tight) before putting the locking washer back on. I just got the big manual for my truck. I'd argue the frontier has a similar requirement. I did my first suspension rebuild September 2012 and I watched this video right before I did this part. I had to have the rotors resurfaced yesterday to finish a brake job, so I'm back to repacking wheel bearings. I didn't have any play or excessive wear, but has anyone noticed a difference in wear between seating the bearings with the wheel bearing lock nut or just putting it together according to the video? Just curious. If I don't need to purchase a $40 wheel bearing socket wrench; that would be nice.

  23. Mike Loke says:

    6:40.. that's not how you pack a bearing man..

  24. James Rock says:

    Hello Steven i have a 2001 nissan frontier 2001 4×4 crew cab…. Since i bought brand new i havent change the hub bearing or repack it… Well i change my rotor but someone change it for me in pepboys but im not sure if they repack my hub bearings. HOw long this bearing last? Actually i have 4×4 but i havent had to test my truck in off roading only twice when we had a blizzard in high desert. My question is those bearing how many miles before i need to change when ever i change me rotors? And what about the bearing on the rear drumn breaks have u change them already? Do you have a video? thanks your a good teacher man…

  25. Rondo Schiavoni says:

    just replaced the ceramic pads on my 2003 pathfinder 4 wheel DR captive rotors, the rotors had some rough surface yet within specs of thickness however they stopped well and even until I replaced the pads, now the truck has steering wheel shudder , I did bid them in right , I cleaned the rotors real good after I notice about 2 black spots on the rotor after about driving 400 miles around at slow speeds say 50 mph , so I sanded then clean and resprayed with the brake cleaner and it did get a little better. , still the shudder which stops shuddering at a 6 mph . my question, if I disable my ABS will the pads Bid in better and faster? then I can reconnect the fuse for the ABS when all is well or is this just a useless thought.

  26. vs2651 says:

    Really nice video,i got the same model d22, however when i put on the 4wd i hear a click click noise like something isn't engaging.. any ideas as what it might be ?

  27. stinkydaddy131 says:

    why would you do bearing replacement in the middle of a sand box?

  28. C L says:

    I need to change the wheel studs on my 95 rodeo. Would I need to go thru this process to replace them

  29. Slippery Johnson says:

    That NEW rotor looks pretty old. I'm curious, if you're going through all that trouble to change the rotor, why not just put in a new bearing? It makes ZERO sense to use the old one, good or not. It won't outlast a new one and you'll save yourself from doing this again.

  30. erik3423 says:

    Thanks for this video it was very helpful. I have one question though, if the race was damaged how would you take it out? Would you need to press them out?

  31. Gonzalo Marquez says:

    Nissan pickup.brake.pads.change.back

  32. TheOutwiththeold says:

    you need to seat the bearing with the proper torque. then back it out.

  33. Desert Fox says:

    You didn't pack the inside of the bearing with grease you going to wear out that bearing so fast

  34. Jc Casts says:

    Nice vid's My Man… To the do it Yourself this is great! To all the Pros… Why bother watching and making comments! Pros Know what to do, this dude he's a handy Man, he does the best he can do.

  35. Adam Kinghorn says:

    Thanks so much for the videos

  36. Jedidiah says:

    If you are watching this video to learn here are some serious criticisms from a professional tech.

    1) learn how to pack a grease lubricated bearing.
    2) Never reuse oil/grease/water seals.
    3) Set Preload on spindle nut, loosen and retighten to spec.

    Trouble free operation is critical whether you are doing diy projects or a professional in the field. Chances are a spindle nut socket and torque wrench are going to be cheaper than an entire steering assembly when, not if it fails. Depending on the age and condition of the vehicle you might get away with cutting corners or you may not, if you put any value on time it will always be cheaper to do it the right way once than to come back and fix it again.

  37. Jgmatp says:

    thanks for this. you saved me a lot of boring reading of some manual. excellent video!

  38. David Donnelly says:

    You did not seat those bearings correctly , they need to be torqued down to 50-70ft lbs per FSM. Then spin the hub,back the locking nut off to 0 ft lbs spin , re apply 50-70ft lbs spin and back off once again to 0ft lbs. Then tighten it a quarter turn past hand tight . They make a tool at napa that fits perfectly its about $14

  39. keester509 says:

    Your videos have help so much!!!! Thank you for making them!

  40. patrickts1 says:

    danke ! du hast mir sehr geholfen 🙂 🙂

  41. J. J. springer says:

    Steve there is a $2 tool to pump grease in the bearing! Old school way is put grease in palm of hand, take wide part of bearing and force ring around bearing in palm of hand till you see it come out of center turn bearing 45° and do again till you come back where you start! This guarantees all bearings are greased 100% ! You did a fine job explaining, have a 2015 to do or let insurance cover! $200 deductible! So we will see have broken back so should I or shouldn't I.

  42. Ray Burt says:

    Because of all your vids I have done alot of work on my 02 xterra. Thanks so much!

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