Install Toyota Rear Axle Bearing, Oil Seal – WITHOUT a Press!
Install Toyota Rear Axle Bearing, Oil Seal – WITHOUT a Press!

Hey guys, welcome back to the 6th Gear Garage! Of all the vehicles I feature on this channel,
my Toyota 4×4 gets the most likes and I appreciate that. So here’s another one for all the Toyota
fans… In a previous video, I was driving around
with over 1100 lbs of cargo in the bed, and could really hear a noisy axle bearing coming
from the rear. Luckily I had the all terrain tires on at the time instead of the noisy mud tires, or
I wouldn’t have noticed it as soon as I did. Toyota has used this 8” axle in their 4×4’s
since 1979, with some slight variations over the years. This rear axle is actually from an IFS truck,
so it’s 3” wider overall than the 85 & earlier axles, plus the drum brakes are larger. V6 and Turbo models, as well as 96 & newer
models use a stronger version with 30 spline axles, compared to the 95 & earlier 4 cyl
8” rears, which use the 27 spline. Regardless, replacing the bearing & seals
should be very similar for all models, even the 7.5” rears from the 2wd vehicles. Just be sure you correctly Identify your axle
before you buy parts. I jacked up the rear axle, grabbed the wheel,
gave it some back and forth wiggles, and it definitely had some play – a sure sign of
a worn axle bearing. I figured if one side was bad, the other wouldn’t
be far behind, so I ordered a kit to do both sides. OEM parts are always best, but if you’re
going aftermarket at least get something made in Japan. The kit I ordered included the wheel bearing,
retainer, axle housing oil seal, and outer oil seal. It didn’t come with the O-rings. They were only a few bucks, so I picked some
up from Toyota. The kit didn’t include c-clips, which the
factory service manual says to replace, but Now the factory service manual says to use
a press to remove and install the bearing and retainer. Most of us aren’t lucky enough to have a
press in our garage, and that includes me too. So this is a great opportunity for me to show
you how to do this job without a press, saving some money in exchange for a little elbow
grease. Let’s get started! First,
Loosen the lugs a little bit, then jack up the rear axle and support it with a jack stand. The DIY Spray painted wheels are holding up
great as well. Get the wheel out of the way and move onto
the next step, which is taking off the brake drum. You’ll notice there are 2 small bolt holes
across from each other. You can turn 2 bolts in those holes to help
push the drum away from the axle. Mine was off not too long ago when I replaced
the shoes and cylinder, so it’s not going to be seized to the axle. Notice there’s no oil inside. If you do find oil inside your drum, then
it’s definitely time to replace the oil seals, which I’m going to do while replacing
the bearing, since everything will already be apart. Also consider replacing the shoes if they’ve
become contaminated with oil. Moving around back, there’s 2 things I have
to disconnect. The first is the E-brake cable, which may
vary slightly between each generation of truck or 4runner. Also I’m going to disconnect the brake line
from the backing plate. To keep brake fluid from dripping out and
make bleeding easier after this job is all done, I’m going to put a vinyl cap over
the flanged end of the line. I’m using needle nose pliers to remove the
cotter pin. Ok it turns out that this piece is completely
rusted on. It’s an Ohio thing- you lucky southern toyota
owners wouldn’t understand. Rather than get into that, I’ll just remove
the other pin. Use a 10mm flare nut wrench to loosen the
brake line fitting. A regular wrench can round off the fitting,
so be careful. Slightly bend the line out of the way and
cap the end to stop the dripping. Next I’m going to spray a little penetrating
lube on the threads of the 4 nuts holding the backing plate to the axle. The nuts were too tight to get loose with
a ratchet. I needed a mini breaker bar to crack them
loose. Now that they’re started, I’m using a
14mm socket to take them off. I’m going to set the 4 nuts and their lock
washers aside to be cleaned & re-used later. With a little pull, the backing plate should
slide out, along with the axle. If yours is stubborn like mine, a few taps
with a mallet will do the trick. Now grab both sides of the backing plate and
pull it and the axle straight out of the housing, trying not to drag the splined end of the
axle inside the housing. Ok you heard the sound of a bad bearing earlier,
now lets see how bad it actually is. Yep! This bearing is toast. We have a nice view of the inside because
the seal from the side of the bearing stuck to the axle housing. I can see the differential way back there. Look at all of the play due to the shot bearing. Now I’m going to remove the snap ring using
shape ring pliers. If you don’t have a pair with the wide flat
flange at the tips, go buy one. Snap rings are a breeze with the right tool. With that out of the way, I can remove the
bearing and retainer form the axle. Here’s how I get by without owning a press. With the splined end of the axle facing down,
hold the backing plate with both hands and slam the axle down on the ground. The repeated downward force will eventually
cause the bearing and retainer to slide down, pushed by the weight of the backing plate. Sort of like a jack hammer. Be sure to do this on something like a piece
of wood and not bare concrete, so you don’t risk damaging the splines. This may take some time. It will be slow at first, but the more the
bearing retainer moves, the faster it goes. For some reason this axle took about twice
as long as the other axle I did before the video. Also, make sure you wear some padded gloves. I had a pair of work gloves under a pair of
leather gloves, and my hands were still sore afterward from the repeated impact. After a while, you’ll hear the rewarding
sound of the retainer sliding down the axle and hitting the ground! Looking at this piece of wood gives you an
idea of how many hits this process can take. Stand the axle back up on the studs and simply
lift the backing plate up over the axle. If you’re standing the axle on concrete
instead of a piece of wood or cardboard, thread the lugs on the studs to avoid damaging the
threads. Now on the front of the backing plate, I’m
using an old school dust cap puller to remove the outer oil seal. I have 2 wood blocks to put under the flat
areas of the backing plate. With the backing plate on the wood blocks,
I’m using a large socket as a tool to press out the bearing. 1 7/16 ths to be exact. Give the socket some taps with a hammer and
the old bearing drops right out. It’s time to clean the inside of the backing
plate for the new bearing and outer oil seal. I sprayed it with brake cleaner, wiped, and
repeated until it was clean. The bearing has been sitting in the freezer,
which will ever so slightly shrink the overall diameter. We might be talking thousandths of an inch,
but I found it’s enough to make it easier to install without a press. Some axle grease will also help it slide into
place easier. I put some grease on the outside of the new
bearing as well. The old bearing makes a great tool to install
the new bearing, rather than hitting the new bearing directly with the hammer and socket, which could cause damage. On the other side of the backing plate, I’m
going to install the new outer oil seal. I’m setting it over the opening and hand
pressing it in as far as I can. I need to tap it in but don’t want to damage
the flexible outer edge. The 1 7/16” socket comes through again,
as it fits perfect inside of the seal. If you don’t have a socket this size, any
pipe or cylinder shape will do. With some mallet taps, it goes right into
place. Now I’m going to pick up the assembled backing
plate, flip it face down, and slide it onto the axle. Before doing this, I cleaned the entire axle
and put a little grease at the base where it gets wider, to help the bearing & retainer
go on easier. Well, the bearing slid out as the weight of
the backing plate was going all the way down, but that’s not a problem at all. It will go back in it’s place when I install
the retainer. The retainer has a flat side and a beveled
side. The flat side faces the backing plate and
the beveled side will face the c-clip. Here’s the second part of this job where
a press would be nice to have. Instead, I’m going to use a long pipe, the
same diameter as the retainer, to drive the retainer downward. If the pipe was a little longer, I could hit
it with a hammer from the top. But I can do it by hand as well. Once the retainer is pressed on past the groove, I can install
the snap ring. There it just snapped into place. Look all the way around the snap ring to ensure
it is properly seated in the groove. If the bearing doesn’t look to be quite
all the way seated, that’s not a big deal. As the axle gets installed, the bearing will
be pressed further in as needed when the 4 nuts on the backing plate are torqued down
evenly. Now onto the axle housing oil seal… First I’ll take off the cover from the old
bearing that stuck to the seal. Again, none of my seals were leaking, but
it makes since to replace them while everything is apart. I’m using a seal puller to pry the old seal
out. It’s in there pretty tight, I don’t know
if a common flathead screwdriver would do the job. Outside the flange you can see the old crusty
deformed O-ring. Now is the time to pull that off and remove
any loose debris from the surface with a wire brush. I’m cleaning up the surface for the new
bearing and O-ring using brake cleaner. Back to the freezer to grab the new axle housing
oil seal. I’m applying a little grease to the outer
edge of the oil seal, as well as on the surface of the axle housing. It’s barely hand pressed in enough to stay. Using a mallet and piece of flat steel or
a fat chisel is a great way to get it started. Tapping the chisel in the middle applies force
to both sides of the oil seal evenly. If you just tap one side of the seal, the
other side will usually pop out. Here’s the new O-Ring I got from Toyota. I’m putting a little grease down first,
to help create a better seal. Then set the O-ring on and press into place. Be sure no dirt got left behind when you were
using the pipe to install the bearing & retainer. This grove is where the O-ring will seal,
so it’s important that it’s clean. Another important thing to check is that there’s
no debris in the end of the axle. I had a wood chip pressed in this hole from
when I was slamming it down earlier. Installing the axle is just like removing
it, but this time around I’m being very careful not to hit or drag the axle on the
new axle housing oil seal. Be sure you’re holding the backing plate
with the brake cylinder at the top, not sideways or upside down. At the very end, you may need to slightly
rotate the axle to line up the splines with the differential to get it to propery seat. Here are the 4 cleaned nuts and lock washers
for the backing plate. Install them, tightening them evenly in a
cross pattern, like you would a wheel on a 4-lug car. The service manual says these should be tightened
to 51 ft lbs. I’m pulling the cap off of the end of the
brake line and tightening it with the 10mm flare nut wrench. Just re-install the cotter pin in the reverse
order it was removed, being sure to bend the pin so it doesn’t fall out. And I’m doing the same on the other one
I took out before I changed my mind when I found it was rusted together. Last thing to do before putting the wheel
on is to install the drum cover. I painted this a while back with black caliper
aerosol paint and although it’s pretty dirty at the moment, it looks a lot better than
a rusty drum. Almost done!! With the wheel on, I’m hand tightening the
lugs before setting the truck back on the ground to tighten them with a torque wrench. I didn’t bleed the brakes yet, because I’m
planning on replacing the master cylinder next. Otherwise the rear brakes will need bled after
this job, since the brake line was disconnected. And that’s how I do this job without using
a press. If you have any questions or tips I missed,
let me know in the comments below! Was this video helpful? If so, please give it a like. Subscribe for more tutorials and videos of
my 1985 Toyota Pickup, here at the 6th Gear Garage.

52 thoughts on “Install Toyota Rear Axle Bearing, Oil Seal – WITHOUT a Press!”

  1. Jake Tow says:

    Love this video! I got a set of Koyo wheel bearings for the rear for free.
    I've got a weird noise coming from the rear end, might be the center support bearing.

  2. WrenchTech Garage says:

    There was a time when it was easier to take the axle out of the housing and take it into an auto parts store that would sell you the bearing and install it on your axle shaft for a very reasonable price. These days, with the rise of stores like AutoZone, O’Rileys, Advance Auto and Bumper-to-Bumper, it is almost impossible to find a store that will do any of that kind of work. My answer has been to buy a cheap press from Harbor Freight and make my own axle pulling tool. I have less than $150 into the whole set up, which leaves me with more money to plow into Toyota 4 x 4s, which in turn almost guarantees that I will be doing more axle bearing jobs, probably sooner than I think. And now that I have a press I am thinking about buying additional tools to work on differentials and transmissions. And why not, thanks to the Chinese, the price of tools is a fraction of what it was 10 or 20 years ago.

    Thanks for the video. Anything that gets people working on their own junk instead of paying the outrageous rates that professional shops charge is golden.

  3. Peter Schlater says:

    Great video!

  4. zoe jacobsen says:

    thanks! great video

  5. Eric Cuevas says:

    Do all these parts come in a kit? If so what’s the name of the kit?

  6. Mark Warner says:

    Put a little heat on the bearing retainer with a propane torch ,you can heat the retainer in the oven before you reinstall it about 200 degrees is about right

  7. Henry Castellanos says:

    If I have a standing press can I just press it down instead of hitting it? Asking because I got one not too long ago and still finding ways to use it

  8. RottenEggSack says:

    Awe man!!! Awesome! I wish I would have seen this before I just changed my oil seal. I just did a temp job knowing I would be replacing it again for the bearing.
    Well there's always time to do the job twice!

  9. Fran Medina says:

    Can you post the link for the kit please and do you have a video of you replacing front rotors and bearings and seals?

  10. Caroline Lee says:

    Hey! Pretty truck. Curious, a mechanic just told me my rear dif seal is leaking and soaking the back brakes on my 2001 4runner. He replaced my drum pads and quoted $1200 for the axle fix. Do you have any comments on this? Thank you 🙂

  11. Gary Peatling says:

    Seen two were inner seal misses collar completely had to space collar out 8 mil to get it in line with seal had persistent oil seepage

  12. Rich Wyatt says:

    In the intro, I thought you called it the "6 BEER Garage" and I thought that was perfect for all of the shade tree mechanics of the world.

  13. Joseph Pile says:

    Did you apply grease to the inner portion of the new oil seal before putting the axle shaft back in? It didn't seem like you did on the video. Some say to do it, some don't mention it. I'm about to attempt all this. Just want to make sure I understand the process.

  14. Just4Fun says:

    Very good video.

  15. Average Joe78 says:

    Appreciate the Toyota videos

  16. bterans2 says:

    By far the most straight forward video on this particular repair.

  17. Jonno Cowie says:

    Great vid!

  18. John Holmes says:

    Great video! I purchased a 20 ton press at harbor freight for like 160 a few years ago. It has paid for itself 10 times over. Doesn't take up much room in the garage either.

  19. R.R. N. says:

    Great video. Helped me alot

  20. Angel Provencio says:

    Big help thank you!!!

  21. CentroInvOrografica says:

    Thanks for such an illustrative video, I will use it as a guide when a few weeks from now I'll be changing oil seals and bearing on my '94 4×4 pickup.

    Just two questions:

    1) Does this job require having the differential drained from its oil first?

    2) Does this require to bleed the rear brakes afterwards?

    Thanks again and keep up the great content!

  22. Bj Cash says:

    Thank you for making this video, I have a 94, and it’s the exact same procedure, I thought I would have to take it to a garage until I watched this video, saved me hundreds, extremely helpful, thanks again!

  23. Scot Worden says:

    Very good video ,Thank you

  24. Cody Maasen says:

    What rims are those?

  25. jacob Godfrey says:

    Great video living it

  26. Jared Grass says:

    I'm unable to get that retainer to beat out trying to now get a ride to NAPA to have them press it out

  27. Juan Martinez says:

    Pro tip. To remove the rear retaining ring that is pressed unto the axle shaft, cut as far into it as you can with a small cut-off disc. Just cutting about halfway through will weaken the ring just enough to crack it with a cold chisel and hammer. It will save you the hassle of banging that assembly into the floor for 30 minutes.

  28. Dylan says:

    Thanks for the awesome vid, it was great help, don’t stop posting first gen yota videos!

  29. Derek Archer says:

    Great vid mate, I'm all set to do the same to my 2002 Dual-Cab this weekend. Cheers!

  30. angelito python says:

    Good video .. for all those who complain that they don't fix it because don't have proper tools.. 👍👍

  31. Jose Rivera says:

    Es todo amigo !!!!! 👍🏻

  32. Payratroopah 108 says:

    Common sense approach that I would have never come up with! Thank you!

  33. J Beck says:

    Wtf is this no rear locker non sense! Otherwise pretty useful, I had no manual and did not know about the outer O ring. Now I know for next time. Also to get the retainer ring off I just heated the ring (kept the shaft cool) until it fell off.

  34. Dube says:

    Great video!!… only wear some gloves that keep the chemicals off the skin.

    An up and coming project that should prevent the need of a press, Thanks!!

  35. Sino Hoeung says:

    Good job; well done thanks

  36. Missouri Hippie says:

    Is this the process I need to do on My 2002 with out ABS? BTW Good Vid !!!

  37. Gary Kent says:

    Did you drain the oil 1st?

  38. DA NS says:

    Where can I get the o-rings? I can’t find those anywhere.

  39. Anthony Brady says:

    Great video helped out alot just did my 2001 toyota tacoma rear bearings and seals thanks

  40. MrSaintsebastian says:

    Awesome video.
    Can I do this to a Toyota HiAce van the principle the same?
    I haven't removed the wheels etc, but I do have, what appears to be a sick axle bearing, according to the noise.

  41. Justin Johnson says:

    This is a ridiculously good quality video. Fantastic job describing the process. Definitely subscribing!

  42. IloveSPIDERZ says:

    How many miles did it last? My Tacoma has 152K and I never replaced any bearings yet. Although probably more than 90 percent of those miles are highway miles, I do live in northern NY (damn road salt/sand).

  43. IloveSPIDERZ says:

    BTW, Freezing the parts?! What a concept! Very genius!

  44. Ben Zo says:

    7:33 Don't do that. You are banging the inside race onto the inside race. You always want to drive a bearing in via the outside race so you don't damage the new bearing!

  45. Dean Nuckles says:

    By far the best how to video I have ever seen. Right speed, great commentary, excellent video. Keep up the good work. Own an 87 4Runner. Very helpful.

  46. yannai0h says:

    I loved the video and decided to try it for myself, but no matter how much I banged it I couldn't release it (also have the abs ring). Ended up building a puller tube that uses a 3 jaw puller to remove it. Worked seamllesly, highly recomended it if you don't have a press.

  47. König Hansen says:

    7:30, dont use the old bearing for that !!!!

  48. Armando Soria says:

    The thumbnail has a red bearing. Looks like a "Reds" bearing for skateboarding….the memories..

  49. Corrupt Leviathan says:

    "it's an Ohio thing" everything is always rusted here

  50. chrisj2004 says:

    Where did you order the kit from? Im saving my pennies so i can do this to my 1990 Toyota Deluxe 4×4

  51. Paul V says:

    I'm in the same boat right now, would this be basically the same as on a 2007 Tacoma?

  52. Cristian S. says:

    I watched the whole video and I don't even own one of these cars. Great tutorial

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