Hi, I’m Jay from Real Street Performance. Today, we’re going to talk about how to select the right parts for your fuel system. So the components that you’re going to be shopping for are the injectors, the fuel pump or fuel pumps, the rail, the lines, the regulator. The idea here is to buy the stuff that fits your goals now so you don’t have to buy something twice. Before you purchase any components, it’s important that you establish a horsepower goal and what fuel you’re going to achieve that goal on. The guys over injector dynamics have created an injector calculator that you can use to determine what size injectors you need to meet your goal. Now that you know what size injector you need, you’ll want to check and see if your ECU is compatible with a low impedance injector or high impedance injector. Most of the current technology and injectors on the market are high impedance. If your vehicle was equipped with a low impedance injector from the factory, you’ll remove your resistor box. If your ECU was driving a high impedance injector and you’re going to a low impedance injector, you’re either going to check with the ECU manufacturer or wire in a resistor box. Not all fuel injectors are compatible with all fuels. You’ll want to check with the manufacturer to verify that the fuel that you’re trying to use to achieve your goal is compatible with the injector you’re going to purchase. On our website we published a fuel pump test that shows how much power each pump will support. If one pump will not support your horsepower goals, you can move into two or three. It’s important that you look and see if there’s a multi pump hanger available for your vehicle before you proceed. If putting multiple pumps into your factory gas tank is not an option, you can move into a surge tank. You can think of a surge tank as a secondary fuel tank that has its own high-volume fuel pump fed by the factory fuel system to supply the engine with enough fuel to meet your power goals. If you’re going to be running an aftermarket fuel line, we like using the teflon line. It does not break down over time the way the rubber lines do and it does not sweat fuel which will make for a little bit better smelling garage. If you’re using an ethanol based fuel, you’ll want to make sure that you’re using a fuel filter that is compatible. Not all fuel filters are compatible with an ethanol based fuel. Depending on how your factory fuel rail is configured, you may be forced to buy an aftermarket rail. Some of the factory rails deadhead the fuel. Most of the aftermarket rails flow through. Depending on your application, there’s a wide selection of rails available. So you don’t need to be very picky there. Just pick one that fits the engine. If your application is using forced induction, you want to make sure that you’re using a rising rate regulator. This way, when the system adds manifold pressure, it adds fuel pressure to compensate so the pressure across the injector stays the same. Most of you are using an electric fuel pump. This means that the voltage supplied to the pump is directly related to its performance. Make sure that your system is giving battery voltage or running voltage to the fuel pump. If you have any funny issues where you’re not getting enough supply you’ll want to check this. There are also a couple voltage boosters on the market which if you’re running voltage of your car is 12 volts and you want to run the pump at 16 volts, you can do that and the pumps performance only improves. Now that you know what parts you’ll need to have a successful fuel system, I’m going to go over some of the mistakes that people make so you can avoid them. The most common mistake we deal with is step one. You’re unrealistic with your power goals and you buy an injector that may be suited for gasoline, but undersized for ethanol. You’ll need about thirty percent more fuel flow to support ethanol. So if you have that 6262 turbocharger on your Honda and you’re going to run ethanol down the road. A 1,000 CC injector will not be enough, and you’re going to be stuck buying a second set of injectors. Some multi pump hangers use a manifold or they’ll flow the fuel from multiple fuel pumps into one line in a very short distance. That creates a situation where you’re going to lose some flow. Imagine three lanes of traffic merging into one lane of traffic in a very short distance. It doesn’t go great. So when you’re looking at a multi pump hanger, it’s worth considering how the manifold is designed to transition from the multiple pumps to the fuel line that’s going to go to the front of the car. If you’re using a multi pump setup, it’s important that you stage the pumps. You don’t need all three pumps or two pumps on while you’re just driving around. What this is going to make for is excessive fuel vapor. It’s going to create a smelly car, a smelly garage or you’re gonna overwhelm the regulator where the regulator won’t make base pressure with two or three pumps on at Idle and driving around because the fuel’s just not being used. You can stage the pumps easily with the common stand alone ECU. You just tell it what engine speed or boost you want the second or third pump to come on at. If you’re using a stock ECU you can just use a hop switch to come on at five or seven PSI or whatever the PSI hobb switch available. You’re going to want to confirm that the running voltage of the vehicle is actually making it to the pump. So just because you have 13 volts at the battery or 13 volts on your computer screen or 14 volts on your dashboard, you need to physically verify that all that voltage is making it to the fuel pump. So you want to check the voltage at the fuel pump with the vehicle running. This will make sure that you don’t have any deviations and wiring. A lot of these guys are using a 30 amp relay. Over time the connector to the relay will overheat. [fart noise] The relay will overheat and it’s performance will decrease. How your fuel system was designed from the factory required a certain amount of vent in the tank. So just like when you are trying to suck soda out of a straw in a sealed cup and the cup tries to cave in. Same thing can happen with your fuel system. If you’ve doubled or tripled the amount of fuel leaving the tank, you’re going to need to increase the vent size so the fuel mass leaving the tank is exchanged with air. And lastly before you purchase anything I would like you to consult your tuner. The tuner is the guy that you’re going to rely on to make this whole thing work in harmony. So it’s important that you supply him with the parts that he’s able to do that with. If you save some money on some bogus brand injector, and then you bring it to the tuner and he has to spend additional time to make your car right or spend additional time only to tell you that you need to buy a different set of injectors you’re going to lose money either way. So it’s important that you talk with the guy that’s tuning the car. Make sure he’s comfortable with the components that you’re going to supply him with. I hope that you use these guidelines to select the correct parts and avoid some of the problems that other people run into. It’s easy to make power nowadays guys. You have ethanol based fuels and very small turbochargers that make a lot of power, but they’ve got to have the fuel supply to make the power and then make it safe. Thanks for tuning in. You can click like or subscribe or follow us on Facebook. I’ll see you next week.