Hi, I’m Eric from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC.com. And today I’m going to show you how to split the cases, and to replace crank bearings and a crankshaft. We’ll need some common hand tools, and also some specialty tools made by Tusk. First of all we have our case splitter tool, our circlip pliers, our crank puller/ installer, our clutch hub holder. It also doubles as a flywheel holder. We’ll also introduce some other Tusk tools later on. We’re going to start with the top end
removed, the antifreeze drained, the oil drained. And we want to do a couple things before we pull the bottom end from the frame. What we’re going to do is we’re going to pull the flywheel off, and to do that we need to remove the ignition cover. Remove the clutch cable. And then we’re going to use our Tusk Clutch Hub Holder which also doubles as a flywheel holder. And remove the flywheel bolt. Then we’re going to use our Tusk Flywheel Puller. It’s actually a, you can see it’s a left handed thread. This tool is really important. It’s necessary to get this off. Pull the flywheel. Then we need to go ahead and use our
impact screwdriver. It’s a K&L. It actually makes a really nice to remove
some of these phillips head screws that are in tight. On this bike there’s a little allen head that holds the clutch actuator. Go ahead and pull that out. And then we’re going to pull our stator off. Sit it to the side. Now we’ve went ahead and we’ve
removed it from the frame. We’re gonna start on the clutch side. To start with we’re just going to go ahead and remove the clutch cover. And then remove the outer pressure plate
bolts. Do it in a criss-cross pattern. So there’s no warpage And pull that out, you can see there’s a
spring and the bolt. Go ahead and pull that pressure plate off. And then then clutch plates, both steel and the fiber plates. Now we need to go ahead and remove the clutch lifter. It has a thrust washer on it. And also the clutch lifter rod. Notice how it came out because it needs to
go back in the same way. And then there is a lock washer on this bolt. You’ll just go ahead and pry it off And then we’re going to use our Tusk Clutch Hub Holding Tool Make sure you don’t tighten your holding tool too tight. You don’t want to distort the shape of the clutch hub. Go ahead and pull that off and we’re going to need to be careful and make sure of what’s on the back side. There’s normally a washer of some sort. Next off, the outer basket comes off. And inside that there is a sleeve. A double rolled bearing, and then a washer. We’ll need to make sure that it goes in the same way that it comes out. Next we’re going to take off the outer cover. And when we do this we want to make sure that we pull it off careful. Try not to upset the kickstart gear or spring. And any time you pull of something like that look for washers on the backside. Now we’re going to reinstall the outer clutch basket. So that we can remove the primary drive gear. And we’re going to go ahead and take a soft aluminum washer. And actually wedge it in-between the gears. The aluminum won’t hurt the teeth. But it won’t allow it to spin either. Go ahead and pull the outer basket back off. And then make sure this assembly comes.
Pay attention to how it comes off because it will need to go back on the same way. Make sure there’s nothing else on there. Now we’re going to take our Tusk Snap Ring Pliers and remove our kick-start idler gear. Once again check for washers. We’re going to remove our shift shaft. And then the two bolts that holds our shift pawls on. And when you take this out, try to remove it as an assembly. It’s hard to get the springs back into the pawls for reassembly. Next we’re going to take the star detent off the end of the shift drum. Go ahead remove that. And as you are removing it, you’ll notice on the back side there’s a notch so when you reinstall it, that notch needs to realign with the dowel. Now we’ve got that side done. We’re going to go to the other side. Back over to the ignition, countershaft side. We’re going to remove the case half bolts. Make sure you get them all. There seems to always be a hidden bolt. In Part 2 we’re going to continue splitting our cases using the Tusk Case Splitter. And then we’ll also begin assembly, using our crank puller/ installer.