mower deck bearing mandrel grease fitting install
mower deck bearing mandrel grease fitting install


a friend of mine has to replace the
bearings and the mandrel is on his a lawn mower deck and these things go out
fairly frequently so what we’re going to do before he puts these new ones on is
drill and tap a hole here and put a grease fitting in there and then he’s
going to when it gets home take the bearings are sealed and on each side of
the bearing that faces downward or inward he’s going to remove the seal so
when you fill this full of grease it will go up into the bearings so I’m
going to show you how we drill and tap this there’s three of them okay this
won’t fit in my vise so I’m going to have to hold this aluminum for Becky
probably some kind of little banal Wow Christophe didn’t take much to drill yeah much my
good alright now we’re going to tap it alright we’ve got the tap started I just
wanted to be sure that the hole was going to be big enough and the size of
the hole I drilled was a 13 64th and I’m using a quarter-inch tap and the reason you wiggle it back and
forth like this is to give the chips a chance to clear out of the threads
you’re cutting and ball down in a hole there we go yeah at work all right here’s the brief spin see what you see that is please five
sixteenths yep might even be a metric that we’re smelling oil smells like
coconut right there that’s just about seated now this is a
real cheap metal I’m talking about the grease fittings so you want to really
ease them in there gently you want to rock it back and forth to make sure the
threads are not going to strip out there we go that’s as tight as you get all
right I’ve got two more than to do and this will make your repairing metals
your bearings and your manuals last the life of lawn mower I’ve done this on all
nine Lords you buy a cheap one more and do this to it this is the week length of
your mower deck this and some of the they call bearings on the pulleys but
they’re not really bearing if they’re just sleeves that are designed to fail
very very soon and you can go to Oh some of the auto parts stores some of the old
hardware stores still have them pulleys with really good bearings in oven and
replace the cheap ones and you could have a mower for far longer than the
people that made it intended for you to have it so there we go I’ve got two more
of these and we’re done I just wanted to I’m not sure if I
mentioned this earlier but if you were to do this to your bearing manuals and
pull the seals off the inner side of the bearings this is a commitment that you I
mean it’s a commitment you have to keep these packed full of grease once you
pull them seals off the only way to keep the grease up in the bearings is to keep
this pumped up full of grease and I would say every 10 hours or so I use
just hit with a grease gun they’ll be in a real convenient spot just be able to
reach up on there of a few strokes agrees in there but if you decide to do
this it is a commitment that you got to do often but in exchange you never have
to do it again you never have to replace these are the bearings so that’s it
thanks for watching

57 thoughts on “mower deck bearing mandrel grease fitting install”

  1. Al Stock says:

    any relation to Barbara Mandrel? She's far prettier….

  2. BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose says:

    i come from a long line of fart smellers. i think its genetic. even my sons are pretty fart smellers.

  3. BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose says:

    oh hell,im gonna have to go and look up the proper spelling of mandrel/mandrill/ manndrile? spell check did i not save me this time.

  4. BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose says:

    we have loctite but ive never used it on grease fittings. they break more often than they come unscrewed so being able to remove it for replacement is easier when its not loctited in there.

  5. BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose says:

    just got back from the googlarium,or the oracle, as i call it. turns out i accidently spelled mandrel correctly.

  6. Al Stock says:

    Sometimes………… you luck out…

  7. zx8401ztv says:

    What a smashing idea 🙂

    I could see the tapped hole was not exactly spot on, basic tapps never seem to be perfect.

    I was told 3 tapps were normally used, starter/mid/plug, and the die's were adjustable via 3 screws, Ive not seen any tapp kits with 3 tapps per size, i think they must be all mid's.

  8. alex bruns says:

    you eve think about making a litle achoul stove out of a monster can or budlight alunium bottle ?

  9. BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose says:

    i have given it alot of thought. im subbed to an awesome guy that has just put a video up of his build. ill pm you a link to his vid. tell i sent ya!

  10. Swanny383 says:

    I did the same thing on my mower about 10 years ago, once the cavity is full of grease you should be fine, unless it leaks out, I grease mine once a year, just a couple of pumps when I change the mower oil/filter, also I put zerks on my front wheels, my mower has the cheapO no bearing front tires, they don't make stuff to last anymore thats for sure.

  11. BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose says:

    i put a couple of pumps into mine whenever i change the oil. that is a few times a year. i mow 5 acres of grass in my yard alone and i mow my next door neighbors who is 80 years old. the manufacturers DEFINITELY did not intend for people to fix the weak points in these things. those weak points are,in my opinion,designed into these things. people are far more likely to just buy a new one, in this throw away,instant gratification world we now live in.I like stickin it to the man!!!!!

  12. Swanny383 says:

    I agree, most people would just get a new one, I got my mower well used (100$), the guy who had it before me knew nothing about general matainace, it had a rod knock, the bearings in the deck where completly out, as in gone,( luckly I have a lathe and bored out my old spindels installed bigger bearings), it was a basket case, after many hours of "enginering/fixing/painting, I can honestly say I have the coolest mower in the "town". I try to stick the man every chance I get.

  13. BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose says:

    my wife hangs her head when i tell i could make something of hers work better or faster or do more than the mfgr intended. i have a lot of failures she occasionally reminds me of. but when i have a success,i toot my horn good and loud so she will remember it.

  14. rdnkrfnk says:

    i need to show this to my son he thinks that them taps or grease zerks have to be twisted off in the hole before ya even get started along with all the lug nuts when he changes a tire or the head bolts when i was rebuilding the ole 350 chevy
    you should have yer friend make sure his jack shafts are all still straight or in a few hours he will be leaking grease faster than his wife can run along side pumping it in

  15. BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose says:

    unfortunately,his wife doesnt like to be dirty,,errrrr,,,, i mean get dirty. so ill tell to be sure they are straight before he re-assembles everything. yeah you gotta be gentle when tapping and threading. slow and steady wins the race!

  16. sailingmanuel says:

    Great idea buddy.

  17. BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose says:

    uhhhhh excuse me mr. mannnnnnnn…… wheres my knuckle bump? is there some sort of knuckle bump shortage im not aware of? do my knuckles offend you? love the creepy ken doll at the end of your videos that says knuckle bump. it gives me nightmares.

  18. wyattoneable says:

    I did the same trick to my Springer Harley and have never had to replace the steering bearings since then. Great trick to save some bearings! Nice work.

  19. BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose says:

    yeah ,its amazing how far past the mfgr,s intended service life you can extend something,just by recognizing the weak links and addressing them. thanks for watching!

  20. sixtyfiveford says:

    Great Idea.

  21. william hitler says:

    you can buy the whole assembly cheaper online than the housing ..just a thought. lack of greas aint what breaks them they are made to break.i was changing about 3 a season …i made me a metal plate to renforce them from underneath the deck. ps ive got 75 or more of the smaller bearing brand new ….how many you need. i believe they are 2203 bearing

  22. louis zacek says:

    the housing is cast aluminum and break verry easy. great advice, i nave seen a few people put the grease fittings in but not take the face off the bearing

  23. Darryl Reynolds says:

    There is a mandrel housing like the one you worked on that comes with a grease fitting. It is used on upper end Craftsman and Husqvarna mowers.The assembly also make an assembly with an open bearing with the grease fitting, but you will need to remove inner dust cover on top bearing to make it greasable.

  24. BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose says:

    the mandrel housing didnt need to be replaced. it cost nothing to drill and tap. the bearing dust cover is very easy to remove. when bearings go bad,rarely does the mandrel go bad. i cant see buying a new mandrel with grease fitting when its so simple just to install a grease zerk.i hate to replace parts that aint broke.

  25. Darryl Reynolds says:

    Just info for future. In this are I see more broken new ones than worn out bearings.

  26. Greg Bikevinyl says:

    How do you remove the bearing ? Is t passable to remove the upper bearing and then the lower one will pop out ?

  27. BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose says:

    REMOVE THE MANDREL FROM THE DECK. REMOVE THE CENTER PIECE THAT HAS THE PULLEY ON ONE END AND BLADE ON THE OTHER. PUT A ROD OR PUNCH DOWN THE HOLE ON ONE END AND KNOCH THE BEARING OUT BEING CAREFUL TO TAP IT OUT THE SAME DISTANCE ALL THE WAY AROUND OR IT WILL GET JAMMED.

  28. Greg Bikevinyl says:

    Thanks ! I will remove the mandrel and give that a try ! Thank you vary much for the help .

  29. BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose says:

    good luck and sorry for the caps. i didnt know i gad the caps locked on.

  30. Greg Bikevinyl says:

    I got one side apart, drilled and tapped . The only issue I can see in doing this is .. How can you tell if it's full of grease ? Usually with grease zerts you can see it gush out when it's full . With these type of bearings I'm not sure that will happen . ?

  31. BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose says:

    you have to remove both bearings because you have to remove the plastic grease seal on one side of the bearing. this side will beplaced back where the bearing rides so that the now open face of the bearing is facing inside. this is so the grease can actually get in the bearings. when you grease it after it is back on the deck and bolted down with pulley and blade on it,keep greasing until it squeezes out the top or bottom.

  32. Greg Bikevinyl says:

    Thanks for the help. I got both of mine done today 🙂 All was good until I went to install new blades and I noticed one of the stars were worn down almost flush. I wish I could have caught onto that before I did all of that work. Other than this doing this project is very very easy, but a without a vise I probably couldn't have done it .

    Thanks again.

  33. BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose says:

    mandrel bolts or blade? if its mandrel,then i would sugest using a breaker bar and if you have to,snap them off ,then put it in a vise and drill them out.if its theblade that you are having a hard time with,you may need to remove the deck and turn it over so you can get a 1/2 inch breaker bar on it and some extra muscle like a cheater pipe. let me know how you make out. if you send a couple quick clips,i could probably help you more.

  34. BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose says:

    grease able spindles would make them last forever. they want you buying mowers every few years. ive bought mowers from people that got tired of replacing the same thing over and over. i would put grease fittings on the spindles and never have problems again. another example is the cheap idler pulleys. you can replace them with pulleys that ahave real bearings instead of nylon sleeves and never have to replace them again.

  35. weedhawler says:

    You never have to replace them again…. until you run over a concrete patio block and break a tab off like I did! lol

  36. BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose says:

    yep! them patio blocks are rough on a mower. so are bottle jacks that you forgot you used and the grass grew up around it and you didnt see it till it came through the top of your mower deck. I hate it when that happens.

  37. warwick454 says:

    nice tap wrench. LOL

  38. BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose says:

    I know! the nice thing about this particular tap wrench is, in a pinch,it could be used as a pair of pliers! neat huh???

  39. William Wynn says:

    Just wondering , Like on my mower I know the spindles are going bad. When the blades are engaged it rattles and makes a hell of a lot of noise. Why not just replace the bearings ? Seems the bearing would be fairly cheap as opposed to the whole spindle. OR am I missing something ? Then while you doing that put the grease fitting in. I was also wondering IF there were a more H/D bearing you could use ?

  40. Joshua Speer says:

    Just want you to know that a few months ago I ran across your video here and loved the idea. I hit something a couple days ago and broke one the mandrel's and decided to go ahead and get all 3 new and do exactly what you have done. Thank you for this! Brilliant! 🙂 And now I own a grease gun and I finally had a good use for the tap and die set I got 30 years ago.

  41. Robert Karl Skoglund says:

    Wow. You are a top drawer teacher. No wasting words. And getting right to the meat of the matter. Thank you. The humble Farmer

  42. anniversary4 says:

    Thanks for the video. this is a great idea.  Do you have any video/details on removing the seals that you mentioned. Or is it obvious when you buy the bearings?

  43. pipedreams57 says:

    I have done this to every riding mower I ever owned. It works great. It usually takes about 50 pumps from a grease gun to fill these up. Synthetic grease lasts longer and pumps easier, especially in cold weather. Pump SLOWLY and watch for grease to come out so as not to blow the top and bottom seals out of the bearing. Also, you can buy zerk fittings that you simply drill a 3/16 hole for and drive them in place with a small socket. Socket must fit on the lip of the zerk and not the tip. This really adds a lot of life to the belts and the engine. Good luck.

  44. femtoman2357 says:

    I've done this to every one of my lawnmowers also. You're correct in saying that once this is done, it is a commitment and must be done at least twice a mowing season. I also repack the idler pulley bearings once a year. The seals pop off and easily go back into place with a little effort. Doing this and regularly changing the engine oil will make your mower last many years.

  45. joe jones says:

    Hi,YouTube family I got this Enduro XT 1 46"cut.only use it five time.about these grease fitting you need them.to day I take mine down and you want believe it the only grease you fine you has to whip your fingers to fine grease.my John deer lt155 17years old and never
    Had a problem with it .every three cut I grease.never use water on my deck ,air clean only.put the grease fitting on it east.

  46. Leisure suit Larry says:

    Pretty sweet hack there.   I was thinking of doing this to my Old school edger ( KS 19 STD) trim all.   the pulley/ blade arm bearings burned out and I was looking at how oddly it was put together. It lasted from 61 or so till now but I think it will last another 100 years with this new set up and a grease fitting. LOL 

        I like that you mentioned the Mowers these days are designs to fail, I have told people that over and over ( any new car is the exact way but it gets more technical when you go into automotive scams  )   

      But On the Lawn Mowers there is another big deal.    It's in the wheels!  most people don't think about the wheels, they work fine in the store after all, pushes great for a year or two, then all the sudden ya get the wobbley wheel thing going on.  used to be that the wheels ( I am talking far back ) had bearings or at the very least a metal sleeve. closely fit to the axle, Installing a bearing or , what I have been doing, us a new axle bolt fitted to dual ( inside and outside) steel Bushings.     tightens then up, gets rid of the wobble and it;s amazing the difference it can make to an old mower that should not be on it;s last leg.   I didn't fit them with grease fittings, LOL  probably get a little messy. it is an idea though.

  47. Ronald Rossi says:

    Good idea, but the video title is quite misleading. The description is perfect. Maybe match the title to the description.

  48. ZPD Survival says:

    Great Video. I wondering how to do this. Thanks.

  49. Grampz stillkickin says:

    Excellent Tutorial
    Thank you Thank you

  50. Jim Marcum says:

    you can get those in self tappers and just drill the hole and screw them in.

  51. Yep says:

    Excellent tutorial. Thank you.

  52. FoMoCo1 says:

    Great video!

  53. Cesar S Alvarez says:

    well done

  54. Buster BROWN says:

    Thank you for telling them to take off the inner seals.

  55. heavymechanic2 says:

    When you remove the seal, you can see there is no grease in the bearing, the reason it fails so often. I just filled my bearings with a quality grease and do not want to deal with installing a grease fitting because its easy to blow the seal out.

  56. Equillizer Armtwister says:

    Yep on mtd they have 2 loose spacers in between the bearings, It just chops out the bearing casings. This will work, like you say pick the inner seals off the bearings and keep it packed up with the gun,

  57. Andrew Young says:

    Brass nipples into alloy best.

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