Nissan 4×4 AUTO-LOCKER WheelHub Service/Inspection. Part 1/3
Nissan 4×4 AUTO-LOCKER WheelHub Service/Inspection. Part 1/3

it is important that you inspect all application that’s before you inspection will help you avoid future disaster down the road like if you look under the shock absorber bracket there is a hairline crack that will need welding we also have one right here now we’re going to proceed with servicing the bearing hub replacing the rotor the brake rotor and the brake pad underneath all frontier this is our bearing which will require cleaning up and then we will repack it with brand new grease now we’re going to proceed to take off these six bolts so we can release the rotor from the hub then we’re going to remove the brake pad bracket and the caliper now we’re going to place a screwdriver in here so we could stop the rotor from turning now we’re compressing the caliper piston this is the best time to do this because the caliper is still fixed to the vehicle if you should try to do this with the caliper off of the vehicle chances are you might end up damaging the piston inside the caliper so it is highly recommended that you compress the brake caliper Pistons before you remove the caliper from spindle you want a brake pad and the caliper to be compressed all the way back thereby relieving the rotor now we’re going to turn the wheel so we can position the caliper and all it all it’s bolt in the proper position for removal always place the caliper on the upper control arm or hang it from a coat hanger or a wire never let the caliper hang by the brake hose because this could cause damages to the rubber brake hoses that will be this hose so now let’s proceed and remove this bracket the caliper brake pads racket these two bolts are about 80 foot pounds of torque gloves are for boxing this bolt is a 7/8 socket required to remove Oh now you can look at the brake pad and you can see how very thin they are we have still faved the rotor and the rotor is partially still reusable but we’re going to replace it with a new one

42 thoughts on “Nissan 4×4 AUTO-LOCKER WheelHub Service/Inspection. Part 1/3”

  1. 47MasoN47 says:

    I've got an 86.5 Hardbody 4×4 that looks very similar. So far I've gotten the calipers/hubs/rotors off and have disconnected the tie rods, but am stuck at removing the steering knuckle. Haynes says to remove the CV and the knuckle as one piece but I can't figure out how to do it. Looking forward to parts 2 and 3.

  2. sTeVeXNYCPerformance says:

    the channel will up-load a "front right-side 4×4 axle replacement" video for this same application in a few days.

    Please rate the video, it help to get the information to other like you,who are stuck waiting for info.

    Thank for your support.

  3. Mark1944089 says:

    Great Job:)

  4. reward20a says:

    Mahalo for the time you took to make this video…..very helpful!

  5. 777777eventy7 says:

    VERY VERY helpful!!! Thank you! Of minor note however, the two bolts on the caliper bracket were 3/4 in on my 2001 Nissan Frontier 4×4 NOT 7/8 as indicated in the video(s). Anyway, thanks again!

  6. sTeVeXNYCPerformance says:

    Thank you ,Very much for the INFO. It will be great help to the community. Thank you.

  7. print man says:

    Helpful video. The only thing I would suggest is to recommend using Metric rather than SAE & use the 6 point sockets rather than 12 point. Stripped nuts & bolts normally happen when using 12 point sockets & open end wrenches..

  8. James Rock says:

    Ive got the same as yours this video helps me a lot too.

  9. James Rock says:

    Can u do Vids replacing break shoes on frontier thanks.

  10. sTeVeXNYCPerformance says:

    coming up in a few.

  11. lcpierson says:

    What size are the allen bolts that are on the front of the hub? I really like all of your videos and have learned quite a bit. Thank you.

  12. jerzdvt says:

    Sounds like Christopher Walken.

  13. coffeefish says:

    you should open the bleeder screw when compressing the piston.

  14. Jason Manuel-Morgan says:

    very helpful vid but please do some editing before you post. Watching you fight a circlip was painful!!

  15. wall rider says:

    thanks for the video  now i now what to expect when i do mine later.
    well don thanks 

  16. Israel Ovalle says:

    Wondering if this procedure can be use in the pathfinder 06.

    Should I need to replace the hub or just the bearing?

    Any one? Thanks

  17. Abiel Rodriguez says:

    I like your videos. Im wondering whats your location on the video, country? Wondering about different frontier versions.

  18. G R says:

    You Da Man – TYVM great video – good video, no weird noises, good focus, no long winded BS! Helpful note for those that have a problem with allen head bolts on hub assembly – spray the bolts with Blaster PB penetrating oil and let sit for an hour, then use a small hammer to tap the end of the allen wrench (is like an impact) to knock them loose.

  19. Middle School Educator says:

    Would this procedure also work on my '97 Nissan pick-up?  My truck has manual locking hubs (instead of auto hubs).  My Haynes manual says something about using magnets to remove the internal pieces of the hub assembly. 

  20. Ura Nogirag says:

    Can you create something like this for a RWD (rear wheel drive) Xterra (mine is 2003)?
    Or may be you know if it already can be found somewhere ?

  21. Jack Chandra says:

    I really enjoyed this very informative video and recommend it.  Thanks very much.

  22. Aron Aimer says:

    Not the best idea using a small 3/8" "indexable head ratchet" for breaking bolts loose, especially something as big as a frickin' disc rotor. They make a thing called a BREAKER BAR or IMPACT GUN. Just an observation, "Thanks for the video."

  23. Logjam5 says:

    Very good video, I have a Nissan D21 4×4 (hardbody 1/4 ton) that needs brake / wheel bearing work – hope the design of the parts are similar to the frontier. After repeatedly viewing your three part series on the topic, I will give it a try. Thanks for posting.

  24. Aron Aimer says:

    I could do alot better, for starters "i would have used the RIGHT wrench for the job!"
    "Muscle and strength is always the best way for man?" Hilarious, you sound like a caveman!
    It no open, use bigger hammer. "Brains'" will get you a lot further then muscle, work SMARTER not harder, using the appropriate tool for ANY job means you have to use less strength because THE "TOOL" DOES ALL THE WORK! Anyway, good video not trying to bust your balls, just wanted to point out what i observed so others don't get hurt doing the same job. "THAT'S what gives."

  25. Dan Sheppard says:

    thanks very much for your videos ! save me a couple hundread dollars taking it to a mechanic , I did it all myself , cheers

  26. Patrick Rose says:

    I'm trying to find the clutch assembly that comes off after the snap ring. You know where to find one?

  27. Patrick Brown says:


  28. Patrick Brown says:


  29. OakhillSailor says:

    Please try to explain what you're doing next time. It helps me a lot more than just watching you doing it. Especially what sort of tools & size wrenches you are using. It helps a lot. Also, good to know the mind of a person working on this while doing it. This is good video keep it up.

  30. Outdoors Life says:

    Hey man thanks for taking the time to film the steps it takes to do this

  31. Gamma Light says:

    I broke my locking hub and now all of the hub bolts are broken in the holes beyond repair. I've ordered parts to replace everything but I need to use the truck to snow plow for one day at least until parts come in.

    Does anyone know a trick to lock up the cv axle to the hub without a locker?

    I'm about to drill a bolt through the hub/cv axle or re drill new holes and tap new mounting points in between the old holes.

    I ordered:
    cv axles
    disk brakes
    new hubs
    new warn lockers

    so I don't mind damaging parts as long as I can remove them later and have 4wd again for at least a day.

    Any ideas are greatly appreciated, thank you!

  32. Zach Privett says:

    where do I find those 2 little screws that hold in the wheel bearing. some asshole put in rounded out screws and I can't find replacements.

  33. MrHellfinger says:

    The caliper bolts are not 7/8, they are 22mm. According to the Factory Service Manual, the are torqued to 116-144 ft-lb.

  34. mike Morin says:

    do you remember the torque number on the rotor bolts?

  35. MJ Lizama says:

    Thanks for your video StevexNYCperformance, One thing that I would advice is to put on the wheel lugs during the process of removing the hub fasteners 06:21 to avoid damage to the wheel lug studs. Otherwise keep up the good work my man.

  36. Edson Dos Santos says:

    Excelente video. Mi pick Up ZNA RICH se le corrio el acople del 4×4 hasta perforar la tapa. Por tu video entendi que seria el seguro de la pieza del acople. Creo no hay problema en sustituir ese reten cierto?

  37. Vortec67 says:


  38. humberto hernandez says:

    No fuera mejor frenar con el pedal de frenos ok

  39. Jgmatp says:

    air tools man, save you a lot of effort.

  40. Carson Brewer says:

    Can you help me identify a part? It's a 3 peice part that slides on somewhere between the wheel bearing cap. It's metal, with a plastic flange that holds a spring that goes around the circumference of the metal ring.

  41. Scott Carlson says:

    You need to get some better snap ring pliers 😎

  42. Repurplecirculation says:

    Part 2 is here:

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