Part 2 – How to Replace Timing Belt and Water Pump 99-06 Hyundai Elantra
Part 2 – How to Replace Timing Belt and Water Pump 99-06 Hyundai Elantra


Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source
for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I’m Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and
next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks. This is a second part of a two part series. In the first part, we took basically the front
of the engine apart and removed the timing belt. In this one we’re going to show you how to
change the water pump, and then, put the timing belt back on, and put everything back together. The first set of tools are basically the same. You will need a 5mm Allen wrench, a razor
blade and holder to clean off the gasket area for the water pump, a torque wrench, as well
as what I didn’t mention here was a catch pan for catching the coolant from the engine. With these out of the way, you can slip the
belt right off and out. Locate the drain plug on the radiator, right
here. It’s red. Remove your radiator cap. Unscrew your drain plug. Have your bucket there to catch it. There’s an 8mm Allen bolt right in there and
that’s right below the water pump and if you remove that and have a container underneath
it’ll drain out your coolant to below the water pump level. In this case the bolt is too rusted in there. We couldn’t remove it so we’re just going
to knock the water pump off, and let it drain into the pan that way. Locate your two 12 mm bolts that hold the
bracket to the water pump and to the alternator and power steering bracket and remove those. There are two more 12mm bolts that hold that
bracket that are in behind where that power steering pulley is. We’ll speed up, here, as we remove those bolts. You can see it’s a matter of using different
size extensions to get to the bolts. Once you loosen up one of them, the power
steering pump can be moved, slid up a little bit out of the way to get to the other one. Locate your three bolts that are remaining
holding in your water pump and those are 12 mm. We’ll fast forward here as we remove those
last three. So, that’s seven bolts, in all, that hold
that water pump in. Use a hammer to tap on the water pump to break
it free. You hear that we broke it free. The water came out because we weren’t able
to drain from the plug beforehand. We have the catch pan in there to get as much
of the water as possible. Grab the water pump and pull it out. You see, in the old pump, some of the gasket
stayed with the pump. The other part of it is on the block and we’re
going to clean that up with a straight blade razor. Be sure to clean all of the gasket material
off as well as you can. The better you clean it off the better it
will seal when you put it back together. We’ve got the old water pump and the new part. We’ve used a little spray adhesive on the
gasket to hold it here in place while we put it back in. We’ll speed up, here. Basically, Don just puts it down into place
and then gets all the bolts started in by hand first, and then tightens them up. When you tighten these up, you should tighten
them to between about 17 and 19 foot-pounds. I have the old idler here. I’ve got the new one here and you can see
they’re the exact same and it’s going to go in just the way it came out. We’ll speed up here as we put the bolt in
place for that idler pulley and then tighten it up. This should be tightened up between 25 and
30 foot-pounds. The old and the new tensioners look exactly
the same and they’re going to go on the same way. I’m just leaving that loose for now. Make sure your engine is in the right position. Shine a light directly at the front pulley. The light should go right through that hole
and light up the red mark behind it. Then down, a little hard to see, but the white
mark that’s on your crank pulley should line up with the white mark that’s on the block
of the engine. Put the new belt down inside. When you’ve got it on, make sure that the
teeth all line up on the belt and sprocket for the cam and for the crankshaft. Recheck to make sure that your timing marks
are lined up. We’re going to take the 5mm Allen wrench that
we have, put in the tensioner, and press on it until the belt is firm and then tighten
back up your 14mm. Torque your tensioner bolt to 38 foot-pounds. Put your lower timing cover back on. I’m feeding the lower timing cover up and
I’m keeping it to the right or to the front of the engine with the water pump inside of
it at this point. Then I’m going to slide it over the water
pump. After doing that, I’m going to feed it underneath
the engine mount bracket and the idler pulley, the idler tensioner. It may require a little force. You can see right here this is where it hangs
up. I’m just going to give it a little push and
it goes right in. Fast forward as Don goes from the bottom and
the top both to put the bolts on for that lower timing chain cover. Install the upper timing cover. We’ll fast forward here some as we start the
bolts in. Don’t forget that there’s a bracket that goes
on the rear part of that timing chain cover. Make sure you put that in place and bolt it
in place. We’ll fast forward again here as we put the
rest of those bolts in. Tighten them up nice and firm at probably
about 15 or 16 foot-pounds. I’m putting the bracket back on, that goes
to your engine mount. I’m reinstalling the pulleys for the water
pump and I want to put the dish side in, small one on first. Do the same thing with the big one. Put the dish side in. Again, we’ll fast forward as we get those
bolts started in and then we’ll do the same thing we did to take it out. I’ll hold the belt on the water pump while
Don tightens each bolt. Again, you do have to have the engine lifted
up a little bit in order to access this. We’re putting the motor mount back in. As you can see, we let the engine down a little
bit to line things up. I’ll fast forward it, here, as we just start
all the bolts by hand, get everything lined up, and then start tightening them up. Once you get them all started, you can let
the engine down back into place and then tighten everything up nice and firm. Put the bolt back in the power steering reservoir
and then the retaining screw. I’m going to put the washer and pulley back
on. It’s only going to go one way because it’s
keyed. Put the first in your pulley. Tighten it with my impact gun slowly. I’m putting the splash shield back up. You feed it from back to front, the easiest
way to get it in, and secure it with your two bolts. Go ahead and feed the belt back up over the
A/C compressor. Make sure it’s on there correctly and pull
it over the crank and feed it over the tensioner. Once I know everything’s okay there, I can
tighten up the tensioner. Checking the tension on the belt, we want
it to be tight but have a little bit of flex. You should be able to move the belt up and
down about 1/8th of an inch once it’s tight. That’s all set. Tighten up the 14mm on the end of the pulley. Put the alternator belt back up and get it
on the top pulley first and around the alternator and around the crank. I’m going to fast forward here slightly. The belt’s back on and now we’re retightening
that tensioner. You basically want to tighten it up until
you can grab the belt between the pulleys and you should be able to move the belt up
and down between 1/8th and 1/4 of an inch, actually closer to 1/8th of an inch. Once it’s that tight, then you can use your
12 mm and tighten the bolt that’s on the back of the tensioner that goes into the alternator. I’m tightening up the lower nut on the alternator. I’m reconnecting the battery. Speed it up here as we refill the radiator. Refill the radiator to about within an inch
of the top and then fill just using the regular coolant fill. Drive your car a little bit and check the
fluid the first few times you drive it. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source
for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We’re the company that’s here for you on the
Internet and in person.

25 thoughts on “Part 2 – How to Replace Timing Belt and Water Pump 99-06 Hyundai Elantra”

  1. Edmund Mendez says:

    You make it look so easy to replace timing belt/water pump. Thanks

  2. Daniel Johnson says:

    This is definitely an all weekend job. The timing belt alone! Why not replace the water pump if you have to take that much off already!

  3. Wayne Wallace says:

    My car need timing belt and water pump replacement. However, the mechanic shop around in my town would do it for around $700 to $1000. I can't afford it. My car has 137,000 miles on it and it desperately need them very soon. I found the water pump and timing belt online and can get them for about $120, but I have to have someone to do it for me and I have to pay for the labor. I can't do it myself since it's a big job for me. 🙁 Is there a better way?

  4. positive TP says:

    Do you always have to replace the water pump when replacing timing belt, power steering and alternator? And one more, all this I'm going to do on my 2000 Tiburon, I see it has three belts what's the other one? Is there a video for it?

  5. Edgar Garcia says:

    I don't have access to an impact gun, can I use leverage to remove the bolt from the crank bolt?  Also, how much torque on the engine mount when reinstalling it.  Please let me hear from you and thank you so much for this excellent video.  I have a 2.4 I4 Santa Fe that I desperately need to work on.  Thanks again.

  6. TCSwizz2 says:

    Thanks for the kick ass videos. Very clear, short, sweet and straight to the point. You were a big help.

  7. Copeland Haley says:

    Great video! Well made, very informative and easy to follow!

  8. Naser Atashafrazeh says:

    beautiful job guys.

  9. Tom Polk says:

    Thank you for posting. Planning this project for my 06 w/120,000 miles. Ordering for you guys.

  10. scannit says:

    Suggestion, draining the radiator. At the 01:15 mark, he has you remove the radiator cap first, then the drain plug. May I recommend removing the drain plug first (over the pan), THEN open
    the radiator cap. This way the fluid won't come gushing out all over you. If the top of the radiator is capped, the fluid will come out slowly, until you crack the cap open. Plus you can regulate the flow by
    placing the cap back on to slow it down, less splashing. WARING: Antifreeze is poisonous but is sweet tasting. Keep your pets away from it and any spill over. Dispose of it at your local garage.

    Also, when addressing the water pump, if you remove the engine mount bracket that has the 2 large bolts, at marker 00:55 and 03:25 (at his left hand ), removing that bracket opens up the whole area, making accessing the water pump much easier. PLUS, it allows you to easily clean the engine block surface of the remaining stuck on gasket. Just remember to put it back on BEFORE you place the new timing belt back on.

    I do have a question, how does one torque the crank bolt to 120 ft-lbs with a normal torque wrench. I could find no way to lock the pulley in place to properly torque it, so I just rammed it on with my impact gun, just like he did. If one doesn't have an impact gun for the crank bolt, I don't know how this procedure could be done.

  11. Zachary Mcintosh says:

    needing to do a 924s Porsche belt and waterpump replacement, this channel knows to explain things better than most so imma reference the tips and process here to my Porsche. thanks as always guy's.

  12. kotelo says:

    I-I better pay someone else to do this job… Because man this sure looks like a lot of work.

    I also wanted to check the oil pump by myself because it looks like I have a leak, but that I don't know how to do it.

  13. Lito Loco 4 Fish says:

    what type of coolant do Hyundai take ..can I use Honda coolant..??? its aluminum internals also…

  14. Recovering New Yorker says:

    Very similar to the 2010 Accent 1.6 liter procedure I did. Great video! Much easier than a Mitsubishi Lancer 2.0 liter. I've done 3 of those. Thanx again!

  15. Baldomero Rojas says:

    Hi great video. But I have one question after. Putting the timming belt back, why did you start the engine?

  16. Stephen Carney says:

    Hi. Thanks for the video. I followed the video up until the point of putting the alternator belt back on. Has anyone else had trouble pushing the alternator forward enough to get the belt back on. Whenever I push the alternator forward it runs into the brackets above it. I am wondering if that bracket was moved slightly when I took it off to take off the water pump, but there are four bolts holding it on so that doesn't really seem possible, but I am at a loss for what else it could be. Any ideas?

  17. Ivan Stabreff says:

    I saw part 1 an now part 2, the video's are very good and vey explanetory, thank you guy's I always watch yours video's when I doing something to my car's & truck's👍👍👍👍

  18. Penny4Bernie 2020 says:

    Are the bolt torque in pounds the same for a 2004 Hyundai Accent 1.6L?

  19. whirls007 says:

    Great Video!!!

  20. Jedi Luke 22 says:

    I took the power steering pump and set it out of the way. Makes this job ages easier.

  21. Jared says:

    Do you Have to pull the timing in order to replace the water pump?

  22. karrar jabbar says:

    Thanks for the video good job guys

  23. Duy Nguyen says:

    Wow just what I needed

  24. Dziaraldas Kazakevicius says:

    Thank you for this video.

  25. BIG GUY SIMPLE PRODUCTIONS says:

    Another excellent video thank you so much

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