Polaris RZR CV Boot Replacement | 2015 RZR 900S  | Partzilla.com
Polaris RZR CV Boot Replacement | 2015 RZR 900S | Partzilla.com

Hello John Talley here with
Partzilla.com. Today I’m going to show you how to replace the front CV boots on
our 2015 Polaris RZR 900 S. Pretty simple to do, just want to get it lifted up
where it’s a little bit easier for me to work on and I’ll show you how to get it
done. Alright guys this is going to be a skill
level 2. Not that tough, but still you’re going to need to get organized on this
one. Alright as far as the tools that you’re going to need, you’re gonna have
to have a couple of different dead blow hammers, a pair of needlenose, pair of
side cutters. On the socket side, you just need a 27, a 19, and a 15, a couple of 3/8
extensions will help you there as well. A 15 millimeter wrench, flat blade
screwdriver, and just a regular 3/8 ratchet. Then you also want to invest in
a breaker bar to get those lugs lug nuts loose on the tires. As far as your torque
wrenches, I prefer using two different ones.
The Snap-On one I do use for the the smaller torques, and then I’ve got this
larger Craftsman for the big– the big numbers. Alright other than that you need
to pick up a utility knife and most importantly, a pair of these. These are
what they call a pair of CV boot pliers, so without those you’re not going to
pull this off. Now if you would, reference our exploded diagrams. That way you can
go through and pick the parts that you’re going to need, whether it be the
inner or the outer boot, or you know, one or the other or both of them. I’m gonna
go ahead and do both. So once you’ve got your tools and your parts together we
can go over there and I’ll show you how to get it done. Let’s start off by
getting that cotter pin out and then I’ll have somebody hop up on the inside
hold the breaks and get this castle nut off. Alright next we’re gonna go and
remove the two caliper mounting bracket bolts– a couple of 15 millimeters. We’re
just gonna take off the entire assembly and you’ll notice that these threads,
they’ve got a little bit of a locking compound on them and actually Polaris
wants you to replace those bolts each and every time you take them off. I think
that’s a little excessive. I’m just going to clean them back up and use Loctite
on them we go to reassemble. All I’m doing here is using a zip tie
just to hold this caliper bracket up and out of the way. I don’t want to hang by its
hose. Alright next, we’re going to take these two pinch bolts off and that’ll
allow us to bring the control arms out of the hub. Alright, I’ll see if we can get those
A-arms to let go. Now you should just be able to grab it up here and pop it out.
And there she is. And this is what we’re after because we
need to replace that. Since we have to replace the outer one anyway, I’m just
going to go ahead and replace both of them. So let’s get her over to the teardown bench
and get this swapped out. Let’s start by cutting these old bands off. Now I’m just
getting the grease out of the way, and what we’re after– once we get this
cleaned up a little bit– is I want to hit on that inner race only right about
where my finger is. Now the joint itself looks to be in pretty good shape. This
boot was not cut, so there was not any water or dirt intrusion. Like I said, we
could probably reuse this boot but I’m going to go ahead and replace it. I mean,
you’re right here it took a fair amount of effort to get to, so I’m going to
replace it. Tell you what. We’re gonna go ahead and get this
out of the way and it also said to tap evenly around this thing. Alright, looks
like we got it apart without damaging it so life is good. Okay now we can
concentrate on the other end. Same game. Go ahead and cut these off. Where I’m
cutting is where it’s thinner on both sides. That’s all you need to do is
basically break that connection right there. And looks like we’ve got this one
in time as well. I’m not seeing any water or dirt inside of it. So I think
we’re gonna be good to go. The only end that’s actually removable is the the
outside. The inner it stays together so, looking at it it looks to be in really
good shape. We’re just gonna add some grease back in there when we put it
together and it should be good to go for several more miles. Alright, on this
particular unit, our inner and outer boots are actually the same part number,
so which is nice. I’ve worked on many machines where it was different from the
inside to the outside. What we’re gonna do is fill up this
cavity with grease and then a little bit more in the boot and that should be good
good to go. You don’t want to get any on the outside edge because that’s where
one of the clamps is actually going to go and we want that to be a dry fit. Alright
as you’re pulling this one down you’ll see a couple of grooves that you
need to get past and then there’s actually a step down in the diameter of
the drive shaft and that is where we want the leading edge to be. Alright
all we need to do now is just get our clamps on. Alright guys we’ve got the
the clamp set up in its preliminary position, because what we’re gonna do
using the special tool is gonna use this edge to grab here and here and pull that
section together. When that happens this session will come up here and then be
grabbed by these other little protrusions. You have to be real careful
in this section right here. These two bands on either side– they were trying to
buckle up so I had to be really careful you know bringing that section together.
There it is. Alright now we can go ahead and do the outer. Alright it’s basically
the same procedures we did a over on that end.
Now Polaris actually wants you to replace this little clip. I don’t think
it’s really that necessary, this one looks to be in good shape, still has a
good spring to it so I’m gonna go with it. There we go. I’m just gonna add back in
some more grease. Just bring it down to where that bevel goes to a smaller
diameter. Same process, same parts as we did before. Just need to do it again. Kind
of helps if you push down on that outer edge, help clip it in there. Alright now
that we’ve got our boots on, I just want to clean up these splines a little bit
and then get some anti-seize on there then we can get it put back in the
machine. This does two things. One, it’ll make it good back together a little bit
smoother, and in the event that we have to go back into this it will allow it to
come back apart. Because I can tell you from experience when these two pieces
get rusted together it takes an awful lot to pull them apart. That’s it. As you
can see is pushed all the way up flush so she’s all the way in there. Alright,
next let’s get our hub put back together. Yeah, let’s get that cleaned up a little
bit too. And it’ll make it go together so much smoother. If you’ve got a bunch of
dirt and grime in there? That just act acts like a locking agent almost. It will not want to
go back together smoothly. Alright, gonna go with some anti-seize on the splines,
and then on the hub a little light amount of grease. It’s actually going to
go in contact with that bearing. Alright start by bringing this up and around. I
think we can go ahead and sit that on that lower control arm. Now go ahead and put on our hub. See how
smooth that was? The way it ought to be. Remember you had two washers out here.
And we’ll go ahead and put this on– the castle nut– on just hand tight for right
now. Alright let’s go ahead and get a little bit of Loctite on our bolts. Start
by getting these snugged down and then we’re gonna torque them to 42 foot pounds. Alright, the only way to get this in there is to use a 12 point socket and it’s
real close. Now let’s go ahead and cut our caliper loose and bring it around
and get it bolted back down. And we’re going to put a little bit of Loctite on
these as well. And caliper mounting bolts go to 30 foot pounds. Alright, last but
not least let’s get this castle nut and that’s going to a hundred and eighty
foot-pounds, so we’re gonna change torque wrenches. That’s it. And get our cotter
pin back in there. Just getting our tire foot back on and
then we’re gonna torque each one of these to 120 foot pounds. And remember,
you’ve got just the regular steel wheels? They only go to 60. But if you’ve got the
aluminums? They got to go to 120. Alright guys that pretty much wraps this one up.
All I’ve got to do now is just to get it off the jack stands and take it for a
spin. Listen if you need any of the parts that
we used to do this once you come see us at Partzilla.com and we can get you
taken care of. If you have any questions or comments leave them in the section
below and I’ll do my best to answer them. Until next time we just want to say
thanks for watching.

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