Replacing a Rear Axle U Joint : Removing a U Joint from a Drive Shaft
Replacing a Rear Axle U Joint : Removing a U Joint from a Drive Shaft

In this clip we are going to talk about the
proper service procedure for removing and replacing a rear axle U joint on a Ford Explorer.
In this step we are going to talk about the proper service procedure for removing the
U joint from the drive shaft itself. As you can see, I have the saddle removed and out
of the way. What I am going to do is use the post in my vice. Just set it down like so.
What that is going to do is; as I strike it with my socket and hammer, the downward force
of the strike on the shaft is going to bottom out on these and drive up on that cup. Go
ahead and knock it out with your hammer. Alright. There is on cup there for you. You
can see what I have left for barrings inside my U joint. That?s pretty much all that?s
left of them. Some dirt, dust, and debris. I’ll dump them out for you so you can get
a good look at why that U joint was bad. We are going to go ahead and roll it over and
repeat the same procedure on this side in order to unseat your last cup. Alright. That
should be enough. Take and remove the socket or the cup and you can see what I had left
for barrings inside that U joint. Not very much. This all used to be lubricant at one
point in time. From there you can take a remove your U joint four way post. Just like so.
What I want you to pay attention to is the stubs, let me clean them off you, so you can
see what happens inside the U joint and why they lock up on you. This is the only stub
here that is marginally any good. See how it still has a little shine to it. These two
where the ones that where extremely bad. As you can see here, it’s actually looks like
it?s splined. What this is called is brunelling. You can see how the needle rollers, this is
a needle roller, have actually stopped turning in the cup and ground there way into the hard
steel of the stud. That is the most common failure with the U joint right there. This
is the factory U joint and it doesn’t have a grease fitting. My replacement U joint is
of a much better design. It can actually be maintenanced and will last a much longer time
on the vehicle. That is the proper way to remove your U joint from the drive shaft.

14 thoughts on “Replacing a Rear Axle U Joint : Removing a U Joint from a Drive Shaft”

  1. Bevoin1970 says:

    A very informative video. Thanks.

  2. ckmansell says:

    Rather than a hammer and socket. Visit your local auto parts store. They will loan you a u-joint press for free!

  3. metalgtp says:

    Whatever works, I would do it the proper way, but not everyone has money for all them fancy tools

  4. SuB8HaVeN says:

    thanks for the video cus

  5. temps425 says:

    I dunno about the proper way to do it, but it will work for sure…if your working with expensive U joints and drive shafts its worth the investment in a HF puller so you dont crack any parts, but for some stock ford/autozone parts, I would have no problem doing this. If you break somethin, jus go get another part and be more gentle 🙂 Good job!

  6. mondo78 says:

    I found a neat little tool for this job. It is from Lisle Corp. It is a pneumatic u joint driver. Fits on an air chisel. Haven't used it yet but am looking forward to it. Have to replace U Joints on brothers truck. Works much the same as the hammer and socket technique.

  7. Mandy says:

    In this clip, In this step!!

  8. crazynewf83 says:

    Nice carpenter hammer! I use a smaller ball pee, bang the round end with a bigger hammer comes right out. Or just save urself some time and cut the thing out

  9. Walter Frederick says:

    Hit the weld on the driveshaft.Also use Spicer or presicion u joints that are made in the USA.AutoZone's u joints are made in China.

  10. Northropfam says:

    Hack rate way of doing it. Improper tools, improper technique.

  11. elskysto1 says:

    Nathan's the shit no latex gloves no fancy garage no expensive car lift just a guy in his garage using basic tools crawling around on a creeper just like the rest of us

  12. Chris Kiewicz says:

    I don't know about you, but I don't have a million dollar garage with all the tools that I "should" have. Nor do I have the money to run to the store every time I need a different size punch or chisel and whatnot. And Nathan's videos are to show people in my position how to do the job with the basic mechanic's toolbox.
    And as far as gloves are concerned, I have never seen a mechanic in a dealer even wear gloves unless they were working with extreme heat or sharp surfaces. So kindly, STFU

  13. Wootyicus says:

    I agree with you to an extent, nitrile gloves should be worn at a minimum when handling any fluids but for a procedure like this I wouldn't bother unless I had a hot date that evening or something. Not worth the loss in dexterity and tools thrown across the shop as a result of the former.

  14. Joe Colangeli says:

    I don't see why everyone is bitching they act like your Ford Explorer is a $30,000 rig. most people now a days with nice rigs pay to have shit done atleast he does it himself and makes use with what he got

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