Replacing the Dryer Bearing Bracket (Part # 131724300)
Replacing the Dryer Bearing Bracket (Part # 131724300)


Hi, it’s Steve from PartSelect. Today we’re
going to show you how to change a bearing bracket on your dryer. Really easy job; all
we’re going to need is a putty knife, and a Phillips screwdriver. Let me show you how
we do it. Now the first step in this repair will be
to disconnect the power to the dryer: simply pull the plug if it has one on it, if it’s
a direct-wired dryer than you’ll need to locate the fuses or circuit breakers and turn
those off. Next we’ll remove the main top, there’s
a couple of spring-clips in about two inches on either side so with a putty knife we’ll
locate those, depress them, lift up on the lid. Just open the lid up, and then we’ll remove
this ground strap at the back, and then lift the lid right off. Next we’ll disconnect the two wire harnesses
along the side here; tuck that down out of the way. There are two Phillips screws that are located
about four inches down on either side that hold the front panel to the cabinet. So we’ll
remove those. Now we can tilt the front panel forward, lower
it down enough that you can disengage the hooks on the bottom of the front panel and
then we’ll set this whole assembly aside. Next we’re going to remove this little guard
on the front; a single Phillips screw. That will give us a little more room to remove
the drum. Now there’s an idler assembly that’s located
right in behind the blower, it has some spring tension on it, so we’re going to release
the tension on that spring then roll the belt of the motor pulley. So reach in on one side,
locate that. Next, using the belt, we’ll lift up on the
back of the drum to disengage the baring, then we’re going to tilt it enough to get
it through the opening, and then we’ll set the drum assembly aside. Now the bracket’s held in place with two
5/16ths screws that go through a little plate on the back; so we simply need to remove those. Just take the screws out far enough to disengage
the rear bracket. And we see that the grounding ball is still in place. Now we can remove those two screws, discard
the old bracket. Line up the new bracket with the bearing housing,
start those two screws, then next we need to retrieve the rear bracket so we can start
one of the screws into that. Now we can slide the assembly into place,
there’s a slot in the back of the cabinet that will line up with the bracket, then we’ll
start one of the screws: just by hand enough to grab the rear bracket. Line it up then
start the other one. Make sure the ball is still in place. And then we can tighten up
both of the screws. Now, make sure they are nice and snug, check
the socket of that rear-bearing housing, if it needs a little bit of high-temp lubricant
now would be the time to put that in, and then we’re ready to reassemble. Now with the drum down on a flat surface here
we’ve exposed the rear bearing. It’s held in place with these three screws that have
a Phillips head on them or if you find them really tight you can always use a #2 square-head
to remove those three screws. There will also be some grease on that bearing so you’ll
want to protect the floor. Now the new bearing has holes punched for
the screws but they’re not tapped yet so it’s probably best to take one of the existing
screws and start a thread on them before we install it.
And we’ll do that for each of the three holes. . This is very hard to do if you tried
to do this from inside the drum so it’s best to start them ahead of time. Now we’re
ready to put it in place. Now the first thing we’ll do is line up
one of the holes to get one of the screws started. Now we want to make sure that all of those
screws are very tight, we don’t want that bearing coming loose. Now the next thing we’ll have to do is sit
that back in the bearing housing and I recommend putting some high-temperature grease in the
housing first rather than have it on the ball itself otherwise you run into more chance
of getting it all over yourself. Now before we do that the last thing is to
clean out all of this area in behind with a vacuum cleaner, knock any of that loose:
lint that’s in there, and vacuum it all out. Next we’ll put a little bit of high-temp
grease in the rear-bearing housing, and then we’re ready to reinstall the drum. Now we’re ready to reinstall the drum; we’ll
fit it through the opening, then lift that baring up into the baring holder, push it
down into place. Line the belt up roughly where it belongs, you’ll see some marks
on the drum, and then we need to wrap the belt around the idler pulley and the motor. There is a spring that puts tension on that
idler pulley that’s connected to the motor bracket; we’ll give you a close-up shot
of that so you can see where it connects in case you dislodge it. Now the orientation of the belt will come
down the side of the drum, wraps around the motor pulley, and then up over top of the
idler pulley. And when we rotate the drum you should see the blower fan moving. Now
we’re ready to put the front panel back on. Make sure that we engage the slots on the
bottom of the front panel with the two little tabs on the front cabinet. And we’ll have
to lift up on the drum a little bit to slide that front panel in; make sure that the front
glides go into the drum opening. Next we’ll reinstall those two Phillips
screws, one on either side; make sure they’re tight. Next we’ll reinstall the guard for the drum. Next we’ll reconnect the wire harnesses.
And now we’re ready to put the main top on. Simply locate the slots in the back of the
main top, slide them over the hinges, and remember to reconnect the ground strap, just
pinch it closed to make sure it has a nice, tight fit. Then simply snap the main top back in place.
Reconnect the power and our repair is complete. Told you it was an easy job. Thanks for watching,
and good luck with your repair.

1 thought on “Replacing the Dryer Bearing Bracket (Part # 131724300)”

  1. iamstarfox says:

    Thanks for posting this video! It was very helpful.

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