Sailboat Anemometer Bearing Lubrication [Tacktick/Raymarine Wireless/Wired] , Patrick Childress #4
Sailboat Anemometer Bearing Lubrication [Tacktick/Raymarine Wireless/Wired] , Patrick Childress #4


Hello, Brick House just completed a 1100
mile passage from Malaysia to Trincomalee Sri Lanka. Sri Lanka is a
large island off the southeast coast of India and during the passage it just
seemed like our wind speed indications weren’t as high as reality even though
these cups are spinning they might be a little inhibited so I’m gonna take this
one screw out here that holds everything together we’ll take this down to the
chart table disassemble everything lube it up clean it out lube it up and then
put it back together but one more thing while I’m up here I want to show you
this wire I hope you can see it there’s just a little broken wire right here if
I had a screwdriver I could probably pull it out in a way but because of this
we need a new back stay so Rebecca and I are going to fly off to Singapore in a
few days that’s the only place that we can get one economically it’s cheaper to
fly there than to have one shipped in so we’ll put on a new back stay get ready
for our next passage down to Chagos way south of here. OK before we take this
apart I wanted to show you the solar panels that recharge the batteries
inside a few years ago these panels were opaque they were very frosted over .
They had been up on top of the mast for years so to clean them up one thing you
don’t want to use is acetone or lacquer thinner any of those harsh cleaners but
what you actually use is sandpaper and with these I started out with 400 grit
paper went to 600 1000 and then ended up using 1500 grit paper and before I put
this back on top the mast I’ll take the 1500 grit and go over it again just to
get any new corrosion off. Halfway around the world we’re in Sri Lanka right now I
just can’t get 2000 grit paper you can get all of these fine grit papers
anywhere in America at the automotive stores and I think 200
Grit would really be the best thing to finish it off with. okay to get this
apart there’s one stainless steel screw right here that comes out and I’ll try
to take that out real quickly seems like there’s a hundred threads to it one two
or three four or five six seven eight nine 100 okay and as you pull it out
you’ll see there’s a white arrow that points to the hole of course but that’s
because this hole is drilled at an angle and that arrow helps with realigning
everything very quickly when you put it back together on the mast end side
there are no markings and that’s just a straight hole we’ll set that aside for
right now to get the bearing housing away from the main body here we’ll take
a very small flat-head screwdriver and start prying up on each side and you get
it up so high you’ll be able to just wiggle it out like that
now there’s an ear here that the screw goes through and holds it down to the
receiving hole down here I wanted to show this to you
this half silver foil here this disc spins along with the cups and what that
foil does it rides over two little sensors in here actually it’s a switch
there’s they’re all encased in plastic but if you get out you a magnifying
glass and look at your own anemometer your own Raymarine an anemometer you’ll
see that there’s two rectangular discs in there one is a little larger than the
other and as the foil passes over that switch it sends a signal to the
brains inside which calculates just how fast this is spinning and turn that into
a numerical figure which it sends out to the wireless instruments in the cockpit
we’ll set that aside for now and now to take the disk off get this out of the
way there’s about an eighth of an inch clearance right here we’ll just pry up
gently oh the stainless steel shaft when you start here it is even with the top
of this round disk okay and this is just pressed on there’s
no threads… then we can pry this up and pull it out there’s two ears on here oh
good the o-ring is already coming off there’s two ears on here I’m sure you
can’t see because it’s so black but there’s an ear here and there and they
line up with their receiving sockets inside. there’s also an arrow which of
course I’m sure you can’t see but it points in the direction of the mounting
tab so that helps to keep everything oriented in in proper alignment so you
have the two ears and the arrow so you know just how to put this back on in
this proper orientation now we want to get the cups off to do that we grab hold
of the top of the shaft and give it a spin counterclockwise okay just felt it
break right there now I can go ahead and spin it very quickly there we go
how nice everything fell apart that means there’s no corrosion I’ll pull this housing out of here so
this shaft with a bearing up here goes inside and this is threaded where my
thumb is for the cups to screw onto now I’ll take off this bearing sometimes these get frozen
on the shaft so they can be a little difficult to put on or take off in this
case. In 2011 we were dismasted and what was at one time the highest part of
the mast quickly became the lowest part and we dragged this whole anemometer
assembly for hundreds of miles through the South Pacific up to the island of
Tarawa in Kiribati where we were able to finally stabilize
everything and get the anemometer off the mast but these are the same bearings
that traveled hundreds of miles and spent a week underwater in the same
assembly and still they’re usable today only because I’ve taken them apart and
lube them up occasionally. So inside of this housing is another bearing just
like this one to get that out I’m going to take a wood handle q-tip break it off
poke it out. first time I ever did this it did not come out easily I had to use
a tiny screwdriver to really shove it down and out there we go now it’s coming
out okay these are not hermetically sealed
bearings that’s just a little metal disc on top of the race
so they’re easy to flush out and easy to re-oil and what I’m going to do is
take these and put them in this little cup along with the housing. now I could
use this contact leader for cleaning the bearings I could use mineral spirits I
don’t want to use this because it’s under pressure it’ll come back in my
face I don’t know think I want to deal with that today so today I’m going to
use Zippo lighter fluid just put some in here
I’m going to go ahead and soak this I’m going to clean it out I’m not going to a
film that whole process because it takes too long in and I’ll be back in a few
minutes okay it’s been about 45 minutes I’ve washed everything out I gave
everything some compressed gas to try to get all the moisture out let it sit for
a long time so it can dry out and evaporate and now I’m ready to put it
back together you can see some of the dirt that came out of in the side of
this housing and from around the bearings themselves. Oh and one thing too, if
you do have bearings that are very stiff maybe they’re a bit frozen up you can
take the q-tip put it down the center of the shaft and start twirling it around
put it in your solution of cleaner twirl it around wash it out put more oil in
and just go through that process a number of times and it’ll generally free
right up for you. okay for reassembly we’ll start with the this metal housing
will put I’m going to put just a drop of oil in first this is sewing machine oil
you don’t want to use anything heavier than that okay so that slides in nice and easy
with that oil you’re going to put two drops in okay the next thing to go is
the shaft with the threads first just drop that in now I’ll squeeze that
right down into the plastic housing it’s just a compression fit, we’ll put the
cups back on and I’m okay now I just hit bottom so
I’m going to give it about the same amount of torque is what it felt like
when I took it apart now it just so happened on this bearing the little
metal cap that seals the top of the race came off so before I put that back on
I’m going to give it a shot at will directly to the bearings put the little
cap on it. You can see that we just use little pieces of tissue actually it’s
not tissue it’s paper towels we if we could even get half sheet towels we’d
hardly ever really use the whole half sheet we’re so frugal on Brick House and
simple things like paper towels are so difficult to get halfway around the
world so we try to make all of our supplies last and don’t waste anything
okay now I’m pressing up from the bottom with my finger on the on the cups and
down on the bearing with my thumbs it’ll only go down so far anyway
because the shaft is notched for it to seat at just the proper distance. okay
now we’re ready for this part and I’ll put the o-ring on
first..I want to put a little silicone grease on that will help it to seal and
help preserve the rubber okay now I’m looking for the arrow and
of course knowing where that hole is next to the arrow helps to find it line
that up the arrow up with the mounting tab and kind of feel around for the ears
to find their holes and you might have heard it snap in okay now holding on the bottom of the
cups I can put on the disc and squeeze that down and it only goes down so far
so that now it’s flush with the shaft I’m gonna wipe some of that silicone off
of my fingertips okay now this goes back into the housing and it pretty much snaps back in place and the mounting shaft okay I’m not going
to put the screw in right now I don’t want to take that time on camera to do
that but what I’m going to do now is the final thing actually is to pull this cap
off of the wind direction sensor there’s another bearing just inside and I’m
going to give that just a drop of oil I’ve never had this freeze up I’ve never
had any problems with it but just in case make sure we don’t have any
problems just one small drop of oil put the cap back on and as soon as I put
that screw in everything is done ready to put back on top the mast hey thanks a
lot for watching if this was a helpful video please give us a thumbs up down
there on the bottom of the screen oh also a subscribe please subscribe and
thanks a lot we’ll see you soon for the next video
stay tuned for video number 2 where we take this part apart

11 thoughts on “Sailboat Anemometer Bearing Lubrication [Tacktick/Raymarine Wireless/Wired] , Patrick Childress #4”

  1. Jorgen Neckmar says:

    Do you know how to get the bearing out of the newer ST60 (with an arm)?

  2. lawdawg1942 says:

    Thanks for this. I lost a wind cup to hail. Was unsure how this came apart.

  3. Mike Phillips says:

    I'm sure everyone would like to know the reason for the dismasting you mention. I know I would……

  4. S/V Tattoo says:

    I'm a little late to the party, but YouTube loves comments.

    Toothpaste has a grit size of anywhere from about 5000 for some whitening varieties to 10-15,000 for the others. It's great for putting the finishing polish on items like those little solar panels. You can use it in a slurry with your finger or make it work a little harder by using a toothbrush.

    Great content as usual. Thanks.

  5. dreupen says:

    Yes toothpaste is a great idea, but more important, finish by waxing. It will remain effective much longer. Landlubber, can do the same with auto headlight lenses. A good wax will easily double the lifetime between needed polishings.

  6. dreupen says:

    General Comment: In this and your other videos, I love finding the little nuggets. For example, the simplicity of working on a towel (or dock/deck rug). I found myself using a paper towel at times to organize and keeps small parts wandering, but it's not so good in wind. I have been blog/documenting the upgrades/repairs of our vessel, but after watching all of your videos(and "liking" them), I'm motivated to try a video or two. Thanks. S/V Johanna Rose http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com

  7. Pontus Holmberg says:

    I have the same Anemometer but manufactured by Raymarine. The housing for the bearings are now made of plastic. It is actually two half-moon parts hold together with a thin rubber band.

  8. Wayne Jenkins says:

    Hello Patrick, A screw or a bolt has only one thread, the thread varies in shape and angle. TPI (turns per inch for imperial) and pitch for metric. Tapping drill size for a metric thread is determined by subtracting the pitch dimension from the bolt diameter.
    A truly fascinating subject haha. A very good oil for this sort of work and for penetrating rusted and seized thread is Triflow, this is used in the cycling community. https://www.pushys.com.au/triflow-superior-lubricant-drip-bottle-59ml.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=CjwKCAiAgrfhBRA3EiwAnfF4thNU98DgBOtZk_EzE6yj3OyN4PaZCf41G75NYd-XlY-SOT-8q4xMaRoCQWoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds.
    Keep up the excellent work.

  9. Albert Labos says:

    Excellent. Very well demonstrated. Thank you.

  10. Avandale Jolly says:

    Hello Patrick, very good job replacing that back stay, I really enjoy your videos , I am looking to buy a sail boat soon, I really like the Hallberg Rassy, any ideas?

  11. Simon Anderson says:

    Thanks for the links Patrick/Rebecca …fair winds!

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