What makes such a big vehicle stop at such a short distance? The answer is simple: Brakes. The system that slows or stops the vehicle. But, did you know that one of the most important parts of the brake system is the caliper? Caliper, one of the most important parts of disc brake mechanisms, slows the wheel of the vehicle by creating friction with the discs and ensures that your vehicle stops safely. In order for this mechanism to work properly, it must be assembled perfectly. You can purchase pre-installed Sampa calipers or you can choose from an array of repair kits Sampa offers and repair your caliper. Now, let’s go ahead and watch the steps you need to follow for repairing your caliper. Take the roller bearings, both pieces, and make sure the inner surfaces are properly greased. Place them in the caliper and put pressure on them until you hear a click sound. It should look like this. Next, prepare the lever. Put a fair amount of grease on the top recess and two bottom bearing surfaces of the lever and place it in the caliper on the roller bearings. Now, it’s time to prep the bridge. Grease the threaded tubes and be generous. Getting grease in the threads will help you screw them in the caliper bridge. Repeat for the second threaded tube. Make sure the threaded tubes are equally screwed in the bridge with a measuring caliper. Grease along the bearing shell on the bridge and place it in the caliper, making sure it sits nicely in its place. Place the return spring in the middle of the bridge. Take the bridge cover and check that the tappet turns slightly in each direction but be careful not to overstretch the tappet boot. To prepare the bridge cover, place the seal ring around the tappets along its groove and place it on the caliper. The boots under the tappets must not have any cuts/tears or show any other signs of damage. The penetration of dirt and moisture into the brake will lead to corrosion and the malfunctioning of the breaking mechanism and adjuster. Screw in the bolts with a 150 N.m force. Turn the caliper upside down so that the tappets are on the upper section. Place a spacer tool into the caliper and make sure the tappets are aligned. This enables the caliper pins to move simultaneously and at the same distance. Place the adjuster unit with the guidance of the positioning dent on top while pressing on the lever. It should fit completely in its place. Repeat with the idle adjuster. Place the synchronizing chain in its place. Take the caliper sensor cover and make sure the seal ring is in its place. Tighten the bolts with 100 N.m force. Place the shear adapter and cap to keep dirt away from sensor. Turn the caliper on its back. Place the white plastic ring on the guide pin boots, again, to keep dirt out. Grease the caliper guide pins and place them in their respective holes on the caliper. The surfaces of the caliper pins are finely deburred, allowing the pins to move in and out with ease. This also minimizes friction, preventing the product from being affected by contaminants. Place the carrier onto the caliper. It’s time to put in the caliper bolts. Take extra caution when handling the bolts as one is slightly longer than the other. Tighten bolts to 180 Newton-meter. The caliper must float freely along the whole length of the guide pin arrangement, and movement should be greater than 25 mm. Last but not least, put in the brake pad retainer on the caliper and carrier. Place in the pad retainer pin, washer and spring clip. Now the retainer is secured. Once you place the caliper pin covers in tightly with the help a plastic mallet, the caliper is now fully assembled and ready to go!