Skilsaw Repair – Replacing the Armature (Skil Part # 2610931895)
Skilsaw Repair – Replacing the Armature (Skil Part # 2610931895)


Is your saw making a burning smell and sparking
near the motor brushes? If so, you likely need a new armature. The armature is the central piece of your
saw’s motor. It works with the field to create the rotation
need to be drawn your saw. The armature is supported by bearings on both
ends. One end has commutator which is where the
motor brushes apply electricity to the armature. On the opposite end of the armature, the shaft
is milled to extend the worm gear.Under normal use, armatures are very reliable and last
for many years with no problems. Eventually, the commutator will wear down
from the brushes rubbing against it. Most armature issues are caused by overloading
the saw. When the saw is overloaded, it draws amperage
beyond what it was designed to handle. This causes the armature to become hot and
the installation around the wire wraps will begin to melt or burn.Once enough insulation
melts away, the armature will short out, creating excessive sparking around the motor brushes,
a burning smell, and reduced speed and performance. Replacing the armature is a somewhat more
advanced repair but it is a repair that you can do yourself, and I’m going to show you
how.Hi, I’m Mark Soja. Do-it-yourself repairs like these are easier
than you might think. From lawn machines to cordless drills, kitchen
mixers, outdoor grills, our how-to videos walk you through each repair from start to
finish, so doing it yourself means never having to do it alone. Let’s get started.I’ll begin by removing
the motor brushes. I’ll pull this lock lever out of the way so
I have access to the brush cap. Then the brush cap just simply unscrews. Then I can pull the brush from the motor. I’ll remove the second brush the same way. There are five screws that secure the two
halves of the motor housing together. I’ll start by removing this screw that secures
the upper guard to the motor housing.Now remove the adjustment lever starting with the retaining
clip. Now the lever will lift away from the saw. Next I’ll remove this nut, the washer. Now the quadrant will hang out of the way,
and I can remove the washer in the back so I don’t lose it. Now I can separate the two halves of the motor
housing. I’ll use a rubber mallet to tap the housing,
rearward and then I can pull it away from the armature. Your worm drive saw uses an oil bath gearbox.Before
we can remove the armature the rest of the way, we’ll need to drain the oil out of the
gearbox and open this nut on the front. The first thing I’ll do is remove the fill
nut and drain out all the oil. With the majority of the oil drained from
the gearbox, now I can remove this cap. Behind the cap, there’s a nut, a bearing,
and the worm gear. There’s a fair amount of oil that will sit
in front of the bearing that won’t drain when you drain the rest of the gearbox. Go ahead and dump that out away from the bearing
now.Now remove the nut on the end of the armature. When I put the wrench on it though, the armature
is going to just want to spin. I’ll need to hold the armature with one hand
as I remove the nut. With the nut removed, now I can pull the armature
from the housings.With the armature removed, now there’s a couple of parts we remove from
it to transfer to the new armature, starting with the rear bearing. There’s a number of ways you can remove this
bearing.One of which would be a three-leg gear puller. Your typical gear puller is going to have
a foot that’s too thick to fit between the commutator and the bearing. An option you have is to take a puller and
simply grind the leg down making it thinner. This can be a handy modification to make to
a gear puller and you’ll find lots of uses for it if you do other repair work. Another option is a puller like this one. This is great for tight clearance bearings,
but these can be very difficult to find.The third option and what we’re going to use is
a bearing separator. The separator goes between the commutator
and the bearing. Tighten up the screws. I’ll take this assembly to the vise for removal. I’ve opened the jaws of my vise just wide
enough to be able to slide the armature and the bearing separator in them.Now I’m going
to place a small socket on the armature’s shaft. The socket’s small enough so it will pass
through the inner race on the bearing. Now I can just tap on the armature shaft until
the armature comes free of the bearing. There’s a rubber O-ring on the opposite side
of the armature shaft, and I’ll pull that away.Here, I have the new armature. I’ll begin reassembly by reinstalling the
O-ring. Now replace the rear armature bearing. This is the same one we took off the old armature. I’ll place it over the shaft, and I have another
socket I’m going to use to install it. This one is exactly the same diameter as that
inner bearing race. I’ll place it on top of the race and tap the
bearing down into place. I want the face of the bearing flush with
the shaft. Just like that.Now I can install the new armature
into the gear housing. The worm gear which is still inside our gear
housing has splines that need to line up with the splines on the armature. As I insert the armature, I’ll rotate it just
slightly until those splines engage. The armature’s shaft goes through the rear
bearing into the worm gear. Like I said, I’ll just to rotate it around
until the splines line up, which they just did, and the armature is in place.Now I can
secure the armature. There’s a really thin washer that goes between
the bearing and the nut. This washer may have stuck on the bearing
during disassembly or it may have come free. In either case, if it’s free, it goes over
the armature. Then I’ll secure everything with the lock
nut. This is a lock nut and I don’t need to tighten
it down too much. Just until it’s snug. Just like that. Now I can reinstall the front cap. Again, this just needs to be snug.Now
we need to replace the oil that we removed from the gearbox. This is a special worm drive gear oil, and
it’s available on our website. I have the saw sitting level on its base with
the saw blade extended as far as it will go, basically, keeping the gearbox level. I’ll add the oil until it comes up to the
top of the threads. You need to add this a little at a time. Let it settle in place, and then add more. That’s because the oil is so thick. Just about got it. Now I can replace the fill cap.Now
I can reassemble the rear half of the motor, slide it over the armature. I’ll secure it with the four housing screws. Now I can reassemble the rear quadrant lock. Starting with a thin washer, it’ll hinge the
quadrant into place, another thin washer, the nut, and the lever.At this point, I’ll
lock down the nut like you normally would when you’re securing the base. Then make sure you have the lever in the position
you want it to be in. If it were too low, I could just simply remove
it, adjust it up to where I want it to be and then replace the lock ring.Now
replace the screw between the blade housing and the motor housing. I’ll finish up by replacing the motor brushes. I’ll get the lock lever out of the way, install
the brush into the holder. Make sure that the spring doesn’t kink into
the holder as you insert it and replace the brush cap. I’ll do the same thing on the other side.Be
sure to check back often for new videos and extra fun. If you found this video helpful, give us a
thumbs up, and leave a comment.

15 thoughts on “Skilsaw Repair – Replacing the Armature (Skil Part # 2610931895)”

  1. pancho villa says:

    good

  2. Edwin Estrada says:

    Nice

  3. RSC Electrical says:

    Nice clear description 😀

  4. Fix it ahhgain says:

    I have a skillsaw that leaks oil 🙁 do you have a video on how to replace oil seals. Thanks and great video

  5. Right Lane Hog says:

    It was just like being there!

  6. Michael Fait says:

    Great video. Very helpful. Thanks

  7. r s says:

    that saw hasnt seen a hot supper yet. great instructions

  8. Fred Rozenich says:

    I replaced the armature on my Dewalt 708, everything went smoothly other then now the motor is spinning in reverse…

  9. Iconoclast says:

    Thank you so clear and concise wonderfull!

  10. Mark Linder says:

    What length should the Brushes be, before deciding/ knowing to change them?

  11. Mark Linder says:

    -have a loud screach sound from my Skil, took it apart and cleaned it and new lubrication. still makes the same loud screach.
    (not a grinding sound) What part should I look at? The loud screach stays same volume, when trigger depressed, saw running. Volume does not decrease or increase when cutting wood. Or just letting the blade run without a load. Please advise. Thank You.

  12. RATAN NAIK says:

    Conglation Great job keep it up 👏👏👏👏👏

  13. Saul Hernandez says:

    I need to buy one armature. Wje ccan I find it?

  14. Brandon Oberlin says:

    kickin' baseline there

  15. Jimmy Lee says:

    Thanks

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