Swingarm Bearing Removal and Replacement | GSXR 1000 | Partzilla.com
Swingarm Bearing Removal and Replacement | GSXR 1000 | Partzilla.com

Hello, John Talley here with
Partzilla.com. Today I’m going to show you how to replace the swing arm in
suspension bearings on our 2007 Suzuki GSXR 1000 R. It’s going to be a little
involved, so let’s head over to the table talk about the tools and the parts
you’re going to need to pull this off. So let’s go. Welcome to the tool table guys. And as
you can tell by the sheer number that are laid out, this is going to be a skill
level 3. Now I’m going to already assume that you have the basic tools in your
toolbox, we’re going to go through those real
quick just to give you a range that you’re going to need. On the wrench side,
anywhere from 1/8 all the way up to a twenty seven millimeter. On the socket
side, anywhere from 1/8 all the way up to a 36 millimeter is going to be required.
You’re gonna need many different extensions, whether it be quarter inch,
3/8, or 1/2 inch. Of course you’re going to need a quarter inch and the 3/8
ratchet, then a breaker bar, and as always a good torque wrench. Also gonna need a
couple of different pick tools, flashlights, screwdrivers, cutters, needle
nose pliers, and hammers. That covers just the basics, so now let’s get into the
real specialty stuff that you’re going to need. Let’s start off with a chain
maker or breaker. You’re gonna need to pick up at a good one from MotionPro.
They make two different ones. You want to get the larger size, I think they call it
a jumbo. Motion Pro also makes a pivot pin hex bolt removal tool. You’re gonna
need that as well. Then a good hex tool because you’re gonna need a range in
between 17 up to 24 millimeters. Then you’re going to need to pick up a good
vernier caliper because when you go to put the chain on there’s gonna be
certain measurements that are down to the tenth of a millimeter. You’re also
going to need a bearing remover set because you’re gonna be working with
small needle type bearings and they require a specialty type of device to
get them pulled. I know it’s kind of pricey, but you’re gonna have to get this
if you’re going to be successful. Now when it comes to reinstalling the
bearings, you want to get this. It is a bearing puller and extractor set. It’s
actually made for a car but it’ll do what we need by going through the swing
arm and then pulling in the bearings on either side. Now, as far as the parts go,
reference are exploded parts diagram because there are several different size
bearings that are used in either the swing arm or the lever which attaches to
the bottom of the shock absorber. A lot of different part numbers, a lot to keep
up with I know. So keep that in the back of your mind as one of your tools in
your toolbox so we can get this correctly. So once you’ve got all your
tools and all of your parts together we can go over there and get it done. So
let’s go. Alright guys, so how do you know that your bearings need to be replaced?
Well it’s simple. Lift up the machine like I’ve got it
done and then push just horizontally on it and it’s probably moving almost a
quarter of an inch. Another wear indicator, just go ahead and
lift it up see what it does. I don’t know about you but I don’t want to be out on
track with something this loose. So, which ones are worn? Well I can’t really
tell from out here. We won’t know until we get the swing arm off and start
actually looking at the the collars and the bearings themselves. But going in
this far? I’m gonna replace them all because I guarantee you if one’s worn,
they’re all gonna be worn. So let’s find out if I’m right. Alright, step one we
need to get this chain taken off. There’s a couple of different ways we can do
this, I’m gonna go for the grinding method. Now all we have to do here is
just grind it down even with the plate. Then Ican use a punch tool or a
chisel tool and knock that outer plate off.
Alright, chain is off. Alright, next let’s get off that rear tire and that is a 36
millimeter socket. Lift up on it a little bit, make it easier to pull through. Just
ride it back. Now the caliper is just sitting in a groove so it’ll just pull
out and we’re just gonna lay it out to the side. Alright let’s get off this
little bracket here that’s holding the hose for the rear brake caliper and
we’re gonna feed it back up and actually zip tie it up onto the rear seat so it’s
out of our way. Alright, next let’s start with unbolting the shock. That’s a 14 on
the nut side and a 12 on the bolt. Yeah there’s just nothing inspiring
about that at all. Next let’s go and go after those dog
bones get them out of the way and then we’ll get that lower linkage pulled out.
Yeah that’s so far I’ve been working around it. That exhaust starting to
bother me, let’s just pull it off. A little problem there. The good part is I
already have a new system that’s gonna go on the bike in a different episode,
but nice. I want to go ahead and take off the top section of the shock. Suzuki was
kind enough to actually give you access on either side to make that possible
because there is quite a bit of torque on here. Bolt out, and out she comes.
Alright next, we need to get the swing arm pivot lock nut off, and you’re gonna need
this special tool to do it. Alright what I’ve got is a 19 millimeter going
into this end of the axle, and then I have to break loose the outer nut on the
swing arm pivot bolt on the other side. There she goes.
Now you unscrew it from this end and There she is.
Last let’s get this section out and then we can start working on replacing all
the bearings. That’s where you get a half inch of play.
It all starts with a 32th. So you extend it out into the length of a
swing arm? All that adds up to a lot of movement. Let’s get our chain got out of
the way. If yours is really really worn down, now would be a good time to replace
it because you have to take the swing arm off to do it.
Mine’s in okay shape but not great. Well, everything is apart. Let’s start
replacing some bearings. Your two pivot collars, it’s gonna be one on either
side. And when you look inside you can actually see the bearings, and then in
the middle, in between them is a spacer. So there’s a couple of different ways we
can do this. They make a tool which actually will extract it out.
It’s kind of pricey, that’s the way I’m gonna go. If you don’t have that tool, use
a rod like this and you’ll go all the way through and catch it on the inside
about right here. You’ll be at a bit of an angle, catch on the inside edge, and
you can start knocking it out. You’ll probably have to go back and forth till you
finally get it to work its way all the way out. Me? I’m going to go ahead and use
the correct tool. It’s the one we’re going to be using is a 28 millimeter. I’m
going to run this tool down and inside of it and it’s going to expand this
outer end and that’s what’s going to actually grab ahold of the bearing
itself then we’re going to be able to pull it out. Have to readjust it a little bit
because I’m gonna have to put some torque on this. I’ll be able to pull it about half way
and then these threads are gonna run out. And I’ll have to back the tool off and
just add a couple more spacers. Now I’m gonna go ahead and warn you, these our
bearings are really wide. So I’m having to put a fair amount of pressure on them
to pull. So trying to knock them through with something like this? You’re gonna be
there a while. The good part is more you pull it out easier it gets because it’s
got less surface area to hold on to. Just take this part back out, add in another
spacer or two, and then we’ll keep going. There she is. Now we can take that spacer
out. Now I just need to do the same procedure on the other side. There it is.
Alright guys, hopefully your machine looks a lot better than this one does,
but since I’ve got it broken all the way down I’m gonna take advantage of that go
ahead and get this cleaned up, put a light sanding on it, and respray it.
Just try to spruce it up a little bit. Next let’s continue pulling out bearings.
There’s four more that need to come out of this this piece here. We can use the
tool to do this, or a press, or heck, let’s put it in a vise and let’s see if we can
at least knock them out by hand. Just to try a different technique. I’m actually
just going to use a couple of my sockets to try to pull this off. First one, the
one on the bottom, it just needs to be bigger than the bearing itself. And then
the one up top just needs to fit inside of it. So, let’s give it a couple of taps
see if we can drive it through. Oh so close. Alright guys, that worked pretty well.
Knocked out the larger of the two. There’s a smaller one here I’m going to
do the same technique with, but then I have these two that I have to deal with.
Won’t be able to use the same technique. So we’re going to use a steel rod to see
if we can punch them out that way. Alright we’ve got an angle back toward
the vise. Let’s see if we can get it knocked through. That actually came out a little
bit easier than a thought. But I’d be a tough sell that that would work on the
swing arm. But if somebody out there tries it and is successful, why don’t you
leave me a comment in the bottom because I want to hear about it. Alright
everybody’s out, let’s start putting the new ones back in. So we’re going to start
with the larger bearing right here and that’s going to be number four on your
drawings if you’re keeping up. Alright, the way we need to do this: these
bearings are fairly fragile. Believe it or not, those little rollers in there? If
you hit it real hard they’ll just knock right out. So they
don’t play well with hammers as far as pulling them in. So the way we’re gonna
do this, is use part of this kit, run the thread through there, and we basically
have a large washer on either side and that’s going to push it in. Alright, that
will take it flush, but at that point we need to get a socket of the same outer
diameter and just recess it just a half a millimeter. So it needs to be a little
bit below the surface of the lever arm itself. Alright if you do not have this
kit, you can just go to the hardware store and get a length of threaded rod
and a couple of good-sized washers and that should be enough to pull it in. So let’s go ahead and get this set up.
Alright everything looks square, I’ll start bringing her in. Alright guys
I’ve got everything lined up to at least get it started, but I’m only gonna be
able to come in this distance. That at least get it centered and on its way in.
Then we’ll back it back off. Get a socket the same diameter as the
outside of the bearing and then push it all the way in. And then we’re going to
be checking it every so often to make sure we only go about a half a
millimeter in. And we could see the same thing on the other side, so those two
measurements should be the same. Yeah, so we’re we’re even on this side, and this
side is still a little recessed so we need to split that distance so we’re
roughly a half a millimeter off. So a little bit more and that should have it
centered. That is what we want. It’s a half a millimeter on either side. And now
we’re gonna do the same thing with this bearing on the other end. This is
actually number two on the drawing. Same procedure. And remember, don’t knock this
around because those individual little rollers in there? They will pop right out.
Alright, the cup that I have here, or the driver cup that I have here, is a
little bit too big for this end, so we’re just going to add a washer to it because
we’re just trying to keep it flush. Let’s take a look at that. Alright, next we
need to do this section where you actually have two bearings and then this
spacer that goes all the way through. The bearings on the drawings are number
three, and this particular spacer is number five. So we’re gonna start with
just one of the bearings, but on this particular section that’s important that
the stamped lettering be facing the outside because there’s actually a very
small seal there. So we want both the seals facing out. So we’ll start with
this one. Same technique we did before, and on this one we’re gonna be a little
bit deeper than the other two. They want this at about one millimeter depth. So
let’s push it that last little bit in. Whip it around and do the last one. That
should be a millimeter in. That’s it. The bearings already have grease in there,
but we’re gonna add to that. Higher the quality, the better off you’ll be.
With all this packed, let’s go ahead and put our spacers in.
The bigger one should be number eight, and a smaller one should be number
eleven. And then we can just put it to the side, then do the swingarm. So, same
technique here. We’re gonna start with this side. Want to look for the the
writing on the end the bearing. You want that facing out. We’ll just get it
started by gently tapping it. Get it centered. And this is bearing number two
on your drawing. She’s bottomed out, and these we’re just
gonna carry down until they’re flush. Spacer in there. We’ll go ahead and start
our new bearing like we did on the other side. Once again, make sure that any of
the imprints are on the outside because that’s where the seal is. Alright guys,
well that’s got all of them in. The only ones that we didn’t replace? The ones up
here. But as you can see, this particular bike has what they call a set
of lowering dog bones. So you would have another set up inside that particular
piece but it’s not on this particular machine anymore. Alright now that the
bearings are in, let’s go ahead and get that additional grease in there. We’ve
got the center spacer is in between the two bearings then you have these outer
spacers that go on either side through the bearings. And they’re all
going to make contact together on the inside once we get everything tightened
down. So I can actually feel that the spacer that’s in here is dead even with
the two bearing spacers. So yep, we got it. Alright we’re done with the bearings. You
survived. Now all we need to do is put it back together. Let’s start by getting our
new chain guide back in place. And we’re getting ready to put in our swing arm
pivot axle and we want to go and give it a light coating of grease. we’re gonna take down this till it
bottoms out and then we put 11 foot pounds on it. Alright guys the real trick
here is we’ve got to set at 11 foot pounds. What I have to do is have
somebody hold this still so I can go put the nut on at 72 point 5 foot pounds.
There we go. Alright, last but not least we take the pivot thrust nut with that
special tool we had earlier. We’re gonna take this to 65 foot pounds. Alright we
still have a fair amount to put together but let’s feel it now. That’s what we
were looking for. She’s got just a little bit of play. Remember how it was moving
almost a quarter of an inch? I doubt it’s moving to 16th now. Just a thin layer of
grease now that we’ve got this cleaned up. We’re gonna get this first bolt
through the lever here. Alright let’s get our dog bone hooked up. Now granted, if
you had the stock set up, that front bearing set of bearings all the way up
front? That will be 71 foot pounds as well. I’ve just got the lever just a hand
tight in place and we need to torque it down now.
So the actual bolt that’s going through the bottom of your swing arm? That needs
to go to 71 foot-pounds. and the one that goes through, well, what I’m calling the
dog bones at the bottom? That needs to be 56. Now we can get the stand out of the
way and go ahead and get our shock in there. Got a little grease on our bolt. In each one of these it’s going to get
36 foot-pounds. Alright guys, as far as the swing arm bearing installation goes?
We’re actually finished with that, so let’s see what we ended up with. Oh yeah,
much, much better. Still has a little bit of vertical movement, but I guarantee you
that’s that aftermarket dog legs that are down at the bottom. So what happens
next? Well of course, we need to remount the tire, go and remount the caliper, and
then we need to reattach and re-stake the chain. So if you want to detailed
video on how to do that we actually have it. So it’ll go through the exact process
of getting the chain on there, both the the front and the rear sprockets in
place, and then getting it staked correctly. So if you would, reference that video
and I can walk you through it. Well listen, if you need any parts for your
machine, why don’t you come see us at partzilla.com and we can get you taken
care of. Have any questions or comments? Leave them in the section below and I’ll
do my best to answer them. We just want to say thank you for shopping here with
us at partzilla.com, and if you like what you see why don’t you hit that subscribe
button right there. Until next time we just want to say thank you and we will
see you in the next video.

19 thoughts on “Swingarm Bearing Removal and Replacement | GSXR 1000 | Partzilla.com”

  1. Fortnite orDie says:

    Man I just absolutely appreciate your videos. There so great thanks for everything.

  2. SV Souza says:

    Congratulations on your great work, it is a reference of knowledge. Unfortunately in Brazil it is very difficult to have the original parts and these tools special, which makes a procedure like this something unreal. But we do with what we have at hand. If you offer merchandising from you I will buy it in the future. Thanks for the videos.

  3. Shaine MacDonald says:

    Due to all the specialty tools, it might actually be cheaper to pay a shop to do it.

  4. fidel catsro says:

    This is tough!

  5. ganjar darmawan says:

    superb work from john talley as always, that bike requires two special tools just to remove the center axle, damn that's some bullshit design right there

  6. dheslee fiesta says:

    Aloha John! can you show us how to fix F1

  7. ME262MKI says:

    I got a problem with the bearings of the monoshock of my bike, one of them was in a pretty bad shape so i needed to replace it, sadly i didnt find the same bearing, so i tried to use a bronze piece to replace it, you think it was a good idea?

  8. Tim says:

    Excellent video mate. Very comprehensive

  9. Mr. Lugz says:

    I always come here first besides other outlets to educate myself on the hobby I love. Great ViDs!!👍🏼as always.

  10. Akram Almaliky says:

    You are the man, I can listen to your voice all day . Keep the good work

  11. prozeza says:

    Fantastic video, thank you!

  12. Derwin Smith says:

    Great video. what kind of grease are you using

  13. John Thake says:

    Hi I had to do some needle roller bearing on a Honda leaver arm but all the needle rollers had come out so I was left with just the outer part of the bearing so I used a dermal grinder with a grind stone I cut some groove to the casing so then I could force the outer casing to collapse in on itself to get the bearing but used a draw bolt system to put the new needle roller bearing in

  14. Derwin Smith says:

    What kind of jack is that

  15. Derwin Smith says:

    Do you have the Torque amounts ???do you know how many links do I have to cut off on 520 Conversion kit -1+2 lmk thanks

  16. Derwin Smith says:

    Where can I find the same Torque measurements for the same part just for a 2007 gsxr 750 I just Recently took my swimg are off i just want to make sure I had the correct ft lbs gear video buy the way

  17. Dirty Mechanic says:

    Done it on a 98 gsxr 600 and my bfh came out ok but it did put up one heck of a fight

  18. slaven leko says:

    Man you are awesome. I love your videos 😎

  19. Ung Grabb says:

    Well done. Just the right amount of explanation and the right speed. This is how you do that. Brilliant

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