Trimmer Repair – Replacing the Crankshaft Bearing (Echo Part #  9403536201)
Trimmer Repair – Replacing the Crankshaft Bearing (Echo Part # 9403536201)

Hi, I’m Mark from In this video, I’m going to show you how to replace the crankshaft bearings on an Echo trimmer. The crankshaft bearing provides the bearing surface between the crankshaft and the crankcase. These bearings are typically very durable, but with extreme use, you can wear them out. More common reasons that the bearings would need to be replaced are an engine that’s been run without oil in the gas. That can cause the bearing to seize. Or an engine that’s suffered from dirt ingestion. The dirt can wear away at the bearing. Replacing the crankshaft bearings can be a somewhat difficult repair, but if you follow our instructions, you should be able to do it yourself. Crankshaft bearings, as well as many other parts, can be found on our website. Let’s get started. I’ll begin by removing the air filter cover and the air filter. Before we remove any of the fuel lines from either the carburetor or the fuel tank, you’ll want to make sure you drain the gas from the fuel tank. Otherwise, it will leak, as the fuel in the tank tends to be slightly pressurized. I’ve already drained the fuel, so we can go ahead and move on. Next, I’ll remove the air filter bracket, as well as the air filter base. They are secured with two screws. There’s the air filter base. And the air filter bracket. Now I’ll remove the throttle cable and the fuel lines from the carburetor. Pull that away from the carburetor. As well as the throttle cable. And on the underside, I’ll remove the fuel lines. Between the carburetor and the isolator block, is the intake gasket. and that’ll just usually fall away, or you may have to pull it or scrape it away from the isolator block, or the carburetor Now I’ll go ahead and remove the isolator block. Now I’ll remove the spark plug boot and the spark plug. Now I’ll remove the motor housing. It’s held in place with two screws. Now I can remove the insulator gasket. Now I’ll remove the starter. There’s four screws on the back… …one on the side… …and one between the fuel tank and the starter. Now I’ll remove the fuel tank. It’s secured with two screws. Now I’ll remove the air duct. There’s just one more screw securing it. Now I’ll separate the clutch and shaft assembly from the engine. First, I’ll go ahead and disconnect the ignition wires. They just pull apart. And now I’ll remove the four screws that secure the clutch housing to the engine. I’ll just give the motor a couple of taps with the mallet. And it will slide apart. Now I’ll remove the clutch. But I can’t just simply thread it off the spindle, because, as I turn the clutch, the motor will just spin. So I need to bind up the motor. To do that… I’ll put a piece of starter rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. The rope will take up the space between the piston and the top of the cylinder… …and bind the engine. And now I can unthread the clutch. Now we have access to the flywheel. To remove it, I’ll pull out on the flywheel… …and at the same time… …tap on the motor spindle… …with a rubber mallet. It’s important you use a rubber mallet here, because a metal hammer will damage the end of the spindle. Now I’ll remove the starter pulley. The cylinder is still bound with the starter rope. So I’ll just use my pliers to thread it off of the spindle. [ Metal clanks ] Now I’ll remove the muffler. It’s secured with two screws. Now I’ll remove the cylinder. It’s secured with two screws; one on the side… …and one through a hole down through the top of the cylinder head. And now I can separate the cylinder from the crank case. Now I’ll separate the two halves of the crank case. It’s secured with three screws. To separate the crank case halves, I need to push the crankshaft through the bearing. To do that, I’ll just tip it back… …and use, again, a rubber shop mallet. Again, I can’t use metal here, because I will damage these spindles. [ Repetitive tapping ] Now I’ll remove the crank shaft from the other half of the crank case housing. And again, I’ll do that using my rubber mallet. There are bearing shaft oil seals on either side of the crank case. Now I’ll go ahead and remove those. To remove the seal, I place the crankcase seal-side down. Now I’ll insert a screwdriver through the bearing opening and against the seal. And tap the seal out with a mallet. There’s one. Now I’ll do the other side. With the bearing seal removed, now I can go ahead and remove the bearing. I’ll place the crank case half against my table… …and then use a socket placed against the inner race on the bearing. And again, I’ll use my shop mallet to tap the bearing out of the crank case half. And I’ll do the same thing on the other side. Now I can go ahead and install our new crankshaft bearings. I’ll place the bearing into the crank case housing… …and again I’ll use a socket to tap it in place. This time, though, I want to make sure that the socket is large enough to fit around the outer race of the bearing. I don’t want to hammer on the inside race on a brand new bearing. [ Repetitive hammering ] There we go. And now I’ll install a new bearing in the other half of the crankcase housing the same way. Now I’ll install our new crankshaft oil seals. I’ll put a little oil on the outside of the seal. I’m just using two-cycle mix oil. The same type of oil you’d put in the gas. And again, I’ll use a socket just about the same size as the seal… …it’s slightly smaller… …and tap the seal in place. Now I’ll reinstall the crankshaft and piston assembly into both halves of the crank case. I want to insert the longer side of the crankshaft into the larger side of the crank case. Before I do that, I want to go ahead and lubricate the crankshaft, and both seals and bearings on either side of the crank case. And again , I’ll just use a little bit of the two-cycle mix oil that I used on the seals. Now I’ll slide the long end of the crankshaft into the larger half of the crank case. And again, using my rubber shop mallet, tap the shaft into the bearing. I’m going to install a brand new crankcase gasket. Any time you split the crank case, it’s a good idea to install a new gasket. Now I’ll install the other half of the crank case. I’ve tapped both sides of the crank case housings close enough together so now the screws will go through and catch the threads on the other side. I want to make sure I have the gasket lined up. And I’ll go ahead and insert the screws And then I’ll use the screws to finish pulling the two halves of the housing back together. And I’ll just work my way around so that I pull equally all the way around as we pull the housings together. Now I can go ahead and reinstall the cylinder onto the crank case and piston assembly. Before I do, I want to clean up any gasket material that was left behind when I separated the two halves. And it’s always a good idea to replace the gasket whenever you separate the cylinder from the crank case. I’ll use a razor blade to clean up the gasket. Now I’ll use some two-cycle mix oil to lubricate the cylinder before we slide it back onto the piston. This is just the same oil you’d mix into your gasoline. I’ll also place the new gasket onto the cylinder. Now I can slide the cylinder over the piston. I want to make sure that I have the side of the cylinder with the ignition coil… …lined-up with the side of the crank case with the longer shaft, where the flywheel mounts. As I slide these together, I want to make sure that the piston ring lines up with the cylinder. I don’t want to force this. And then I just slide it back together. And now I’ll secure the cylinder with the two screws. Now I can reinstall the starter pulley. And with the cylinder bound, I’ll tighten it up. Now I’ll install our new flywheel. You’ll notice that the end of the crankshaft is tapered And that lines up with a taper on the flywheel. Also, there’s a key on the flywheel, and that lines up with the keyway on the crankshaft. The cooling fins go against the engine. Once I have it aligned, I’ll give it a couple of taps with the rubber shop mallet. We’ll tighten it up the rest of the way with the clutch. Now I’ll reinstall and secure the clutch. Now I’ll remove the starter rope from the cylinder. Whenever you remove either the flywheel or the ignition coil you’ll need to reset the air gap between the magnets on the flywheel and the contacts on the ignition coil. To do that, I’ll use an ignition coil gapping tool. All this is, is a piece of plastic that’s fourteen-thousandths of an inch thick. If you don’t have one of these tools, you can usually just use a good, heavy business card. That will be very close to the same thickness. To set the gap, I’ll loosen the two screws. On the ignition coil. That allows me to move the coil. Now I’ll rotate the flywheel until the magnets line up with the contacts on the ignition coil. Insert the gauge. And allow the magnets to pull the coil tight against the flywheel. Now I just tighten up the screws… …and remove the gauge. Now I’ll replace the muffler and the muffler gasket. You’ll want to inspect the gasket and replace it as needed. Now I can reinstall the engine assembly back onto the shaft and clutch assembly. There’s some alignment pins to line everything up, and then I’ll secure it with the screws. Now I’ll reconnect the ignition wires. And I’ll tuck the wires away in the holder on the side of the engine. Now I’ll reinstall the fuel tank. Now I’ll reinstall the air duct. Now I’ll install the starter. To line the starter up, sometimes you have to give the rope a little pull to get the starter pawls to engage. And then secure it with the screws. Now I’ll install the insulator gasket. I’ll place it up against the motor block… And now work the cover over the top of the engine. The gasket needs to go behind the cover. I also want to make sure I have the ignition wires inside of the cover. Once everything is aligned, I’ll secure the cover with the screws. Now I’ll reinstall the spark plug and the spark plug boot. Now I’ll install the carburetor insulator. These nuts go on the back side of the insulator, and those are for the screws that secure the carburetor. You’ll notice there’s an opening at the bottom of the insulator… …and that needs to line up with this opening on the bottom of the intake port. I’ll thread the screws through the insulator first… …and that way I can line them up with the holes in the insulator gasket. Now I’ll reinstall the fuel lines and the throttle cable to the carburetor. To install the fuel lines, first I need to figure out which one is the incoming line. To do that, I just open the gas tank. look inside, and find the line that has the fuel filter attached. In this case, it’s the black one. The yellow one will be the return line. Now, on the carburetor, I want to find the incoming side. To do that, I’ll place my finger over each of the fuel line connections while priming. One of them won’t let any air out… …and the other will tend to suck against my finger. And that’s the incoming line. So, I’ll attach the incoming line to the black, or incoming, fuel line. And the return line, in this case, to the yellow fuel line. Now I’ll reinstall the throttle cable. First, I’ll open up the throttle… …and thread the cable into the connection on the top of the carburetor. Next, I’ll place the nut in its holder on the carburetor… …and tighten up the secondary nut with a wrench. Now I’ll reinstall the air filter bracket… …air filter base… ..carburetor… …and the intake gasket. I’ll thread the two screws that hold this whole assembly, through the air filter base. Next, they thread through the carburetor. And then through the intake gasket. And again, I want to line up the holes on the gasket with the hole on the insulator block. Now I’ll install the air filter and the air filter cover. And now you know how to replace the crankshaft bearings on your Echo trimmer. If you found this video helpful, be sure to give us a thumbs-up… …or leave a comment.

12 thoughts on “Trimmer Repair – Replacing the Crankshaft Bearing (Echo Part # 9403536201)”

  1. Kenneth Bartlett says:

    OMG Mark, is there nothing you don't know how to repair. It's been awhile since I last saw you repair something. This has got to be the most complicated repair yet. For a minute there,  I thought you were going to remove every last nut bolt and screw to get to the bearing : – ) . Great video and great work on your part. I don't own one of these trimmers, but it sure was entertaining to watch you.


    Great video! Very well shot and edited. Very detailed! Thanks!

  3. johnnyu50 says:

    This is a fantastic video. l really enjoy all of your presentations keep up the good work. l have purchased parts in the past and will continue to do so.

  4. crf 100 says:

    you should be more careful with your crankshaft it can go out of balance if your not carefully and that can make your crankshaft bearings go bad faster

  5. Joe Briggs says:

    Great video needed to see this one.

  6. B A says:

    What would be some symptoms that would lead you to this repair? The reason I'm asking…I have an Echo SRM-260 trimmer and it's very hard to pull the starter rope. The piston isn't seized up because I can pull the rope it's just extremely hard! I can't begin to pull it fast enough for it to start. Feels like it's dragging bad. Thanks….

  7. PinprickSociety says:

    Excellent video! Thank you!

  8. Kojibibi says:

    great video you saved me from having to buy a new trimmer .

  9. shietzakaupf says:

    Really informative. Thank you!

  10. Fivespeed 302 says:

    I just got it put back together and it started after about 20 pulls. It ran great after the warmup. I never could have done it without

  11. Fivespeed 302 says:

    I just got it put back together and it started after about 20 pulls. It ran great after the warmup. I never could have done it without

  12. 1carkeet says:

    Impressive Mark.. theres not one part of my echo trimmer i dont know now, Great video.

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