Triumph 650 Motorcycle Engine Disassembly & Rebuild Part 11 – Lowbrow Customs

(light music) – Welcome back. Today, we’re gonna put
this transmission in there and make it go click, click, click, click, like it’s supposed to. We’re gonna show you how to assemble all these awesome parts
here on the workbench. We’re gonna show you what
to look for for wear. And then we’re gonna show
you, most importantly, the thing that a lot of
people don’t quite understand that’s really not that difficult when you think about it, indexing your transmission
so it shifts through all four gears. (upbeat music) I think one of the biggest
things about transmissions is you want to use very good components that aren’t worn out. If you have worn components, that will cause difficulty shifting, even if you are indexed correctly. So as always, it’s a good idea to have
your workshop manual close by to study the drawings, pictures, how things work, what all the components
you need to make it happen. I basically arranged all the parts that go into this portion of the job to make sure I have
everything I need all at once so I’m not in the middle
of something and go, oh crap, I forgot about that. I’ve also inspected all the parts, so they’re all in good shape. I do have some worn out
parts we’ll show you here as we get movin’ along. Now the first thing I want to do is we’re gonna go ahead and assemble. I know this seems silly that
we’re gonna do this first, but we’re gonna need this
after we get it indexed to check the shifting. So we’ll get some stuff off
the workbench and we’ll get the kicker cover assembly assembled with the shifter, and the stuff that goes in here. I didn’t take out the clutch release. There’s no reason to remove
that if you don’t need to. I did remove all the
other stuff to clean it and inspect it. And also I polished up the cover
while it was off the engine so let me grab another
clean rag to set that on. Oh nevermind, here’s something right here. And we’re gonna need this piece, and these springs. And this is the part that sticks out that your shifter goes on. And we have the plungers with the springs. And then these parts right here. And basically, all these components are
gonna go right in here. Also take note that there is an o-ring that I’ve already pre-installed
on this shifter shaft. And when you slide this into here, that will keep the oil from
leaking out around here. So be sure to replace that o-ring. All right, we’ll start by
putting this in there first. I’m just gonna put a
little oil on the new seal so it goes through the hole. And since it is a new seal, it’s probably not just
gonna slip right in there. And it doesn’t. So let’s give it a whack. (hammer tapping) There she goes. As you’re moving along, check that everything moves freely. Looks good. Okay now, we have these two springs. One goes on each side of this shifter. And that’s what’s gonna
give it that return. If your springs have
taken a little set to ’em and you’re not replacing
’em, they’re still good, see how that’s got kinda
little curvature to it, just put it back in the way it came out, like so. And then the next thing that’s gonna go on is gonna be this plate, orientated like that. And you’ll notice it has these edges. And when these are installed
in these holes, like so, that edge will let that move as you’re shifting up and down, and then these won’t be popping out. But we’ll put those in in a sec. But we put this plate on here. All right, it appears that
all four of these studs have come out when they
should have stayed in. So we’re gonna put some Lock Tight on. I already did that one. The longer portion of this thread is gonna go into the cover. Shorter portion, there’s like, you can see on there, there’s a little ridge where it stops. So we’ll go ahead and reinstall these. I don’t really feel there’s
any need to double nut it ’cause I’m putting some Lock Tight on ’em. So I’m just runnin’ ’em down in til they get to that little edge where the thread stops and starts again. And you can see the Lock Tight
oozing out around the hole so you know it’s gonna work. And see they’re all bottom to that edge. That one’s not. There we go. Okay, so we got all those Lock Tight-ed. Then we’re gonna put this plate on top and a serrated washer on each one, followed by the nut. And if I would have already
put these in the hole, then they would have
been pushing up on this. It’s much easier to just do it like this. Okay there we go. And here’s my wrench. Tighten ‘am all down evenly. And anytime I’m doing this, I like to go back over a couple times, make sure I got it good. That one seems nice and tight. That one’s good. Okay, now in order to get those in there, we’re gonna need to just temporarily throw a shifter on there. And then there’s our spring action from the first two springs we put in. And then these are just
gonna drop the spring down in the hole. And then you’re gonna put this while holding it that way. Boom, see that? Now we’re gonna have to, see how when you, this is what I was referring to earlier. There’s a slant on that,
and an angle on that. So when you’re shifting, this is sliding against that. So then we’re gonna turn this and drop our other one in there. And that’s what it’ll look
like when you’re done. Now, there is also this seal, which seals your kickstarter gear. And that goes underneath this little, see there’s a lip there. And it’s very difficult to get this. If you’ll notice, this is
not an o-ring, it’s square. It’s got a flat edge. Very difficult to just try
to stick it in the hole and work it around. So what you’re gonna do next is you’re just gonna
grab your favorite punch and you’re gonna tap
that piece out of there. (hammer clinking) Now there she comes. She’s startin’ to come. And anytime you’re driving
something like this out, you want to go side to side. You don’t want to just bang
all the way on one side. You want to kinda go side to side. There it comes, now it’s out. And that’s where the new seal’s gonna go. It looks a little grimy in there. So we’ll give that a quick wipe down. Little bit of old grease left
in there from previous years. Now, clean this off a little bit. And I like to put the
seal in here like so. Now see how difficult
that would have been to try to work it without taking this out? And you’re just gonna
pop that back in there with your favorite useless socket. And you want to make sure it’s
down in there all the way, and it is not. (hammer clinking) There she is, hear that tone? Anytime you’re beating
on things like that, and look at that, beautiful installation. There’s our new seal in there. So when this gets slipped in here, that will keep this from leaking oil
out of the transmission. Okay so that’s it for this. Now we’ve got our clutch part we’ve just temporarily installed on there, and our new cap, cap with an o-ring. And that’s it for the kicker cover. I don’t see any need to put the kicker gear in there right now because we’re gonna be using this to, when check the indexing of the tranny. And that’s just one less
thing that’s in the way. We’ll put that on there, final assembly. Now, I’m gonna show you in the book, there’s a specific way you’re actually going
to index this spring. And you’re gonna drop it over this. And then it’s gonna line up with this. And I’ll show you the picture in the book. If this book has that
picture, which it should. Oh there it is right there. Locating tang, kickstarter quadrant and spring location. So you can see, here’s where your pin goes. Oh, we had it upside down. Here’s where your pin goes, and you’re gonna line up
this piece of the spring with this slot right there on here. We’re just gonna slide that over. And sometimes a screwdriver’s needed for, just gonna work that spring over it, like so. Now, you can see that
that tang on the spring is lined up with this if you drew an imaginary line there. And that’s how it will be
when it goes onto that cover. So that’s all good. Well we already showed you
how to put these bearings in. The layshaft and mainshaft bearing with the snap ring already
installed from previous. The only other thing we
need to put in here is our selector quadrant. This is the pin for the selector quadrant. That’s gonna go in this hole right here. It’s always a good idea, once again, trial fit your parts, make sure everything’s working smoothly. If something’s not right, fix
it before you install a part to find out, wow, that’s stuck in there. I can’t get it back out. Okay, you can only install
this one correct way. And you’ll see there’s a hole on there which coincides with the hole on there. And this is gonna take two cotter pins. And that’s what holds that in there. And so basically you’re
just gonna stick this in the hole like so. Oh, see, we’re backwards. We can’t do it that way. See the hole is there. That’s incorrect. The hole’s facing this way. We’re gonna put it this way ’cause that way when we slide
that other pin in there, then it will line up
with the hole on here. So I’m gonna put a little
dab of grease on her, ’cause I love grease on everything, grease or oil, assembly lube or Lock Tight. That’s what we like. Like so, and then you have to look. You have orientate your pin so that the hole lines up. So you’re just gonna turn it. And there it is, I can see it. You’re gonna pull it
out just a little bit. That’s probably very difficult to see. Such a tiny hole. And notice there’s another small hole. See there’s two holes, two cotter pins. So one of the cotter pins
goes through the hole. The other cotter pin
goes through the groove. So that’s back in there and there’s our hole lined up again. We’re gonna drop our cotter pin in there. Should go in nice and easy like so. And then we’re gonna put the
other cotter pin in this hole. And we’re gonna orientate the
cotter pin, the head of it, so that we can, we’ll turn this around so that we have the long
side facing this way. These are actually a little
longer than necessary. And then we’re just gonna
bend that up like so, past the gasket surface, and bend that one down. We can actually trim that just a skosh so it’ll go down all the way. There we go, that one’s
installed and bent over. And then we need to bend this one over. Once again, orientate the
cotter pin so we can bend this. This one’s a little trickier. And take your screwdriver that
you had a minute ago here, what’d we do with that? Here we go. And bend that all the way up like so. And bend the other side
the opposite direction. Gotta flip it over to get to that one. And there we go. Now this part’s installed. That’s what actually coincides with when this is together. Those two little chin-gas
there go into those. And when you shift, it moves this up and down, which in turn coincides with this like so. And then as you move this up and down, it rotates this, which in turn has the
shifter forks in this groove. And that’s what slides it back and forth to go into the different gears. And you can see a really
neat picture of that in the book too. Here it is right here, gang. There’s the piece that’s in the cover. There’s the quadrant we just installed. There’s the cam plate
that I just showed you. And the detent and the selector forks. Once again, workshop
manual has a lot of great illustrations of this procedure. Okay, we’ll go ahead and set this aside. We’re done with this for now. It’s also a good idea to check. This is the stop for your kicker. Make sure that’s in good shape. This just has one little mark on it. I’ve seen ’em where they’re boogered up. Make sure it’s tight in there. Next thing we’re gonna do is we’re gonna go ahead
and put the cam plate in. Worth noting to give this
thing a thorough inspection. You see this groove is where
the selector forks ride. They have this little
roller that goes on there. And when this thing’s all together, this has to ride around in
that groove to change gears. Well you want to take a
real good look at this part to make sure it’s not worn out. Because if it’s worn
out, it won’t shift good. And also, it gets wear on
this surface right here from the plunger. I also just found a
pretty worn out quadrant, if you want to get a look at this. This definitely would not shift correctly. Look at the teeth on there. See how they’re worn, rounded? This part is a reject, no bueno. Even though these teeth are still okay, that’s no good. All right, moving along. This is your plunger. This is your plunger holder. You’re gonna have a spring, like so. That’ll get threaded up from the bottom. Now what’s very interesting is I could probably go grab
about six different plungers and they all have a little
bit different profile on ’em. I actually just brought this
one home from the shop today and I’m gonna try it out. I had this one in there. I was trial fitting it
before you showed up today. And we’re gonna try this. See how it’s more rounded on
the end, it’s not as pointed? We’re gonna try this new one on there and see how well it functions. And also, I’m going to
be putting this special kind of a sealing washer over that. Once again, make sure
your plunger moves freely and your spring has good tension. So we’re gonna go ahead and thread this up in from the bottom with our new sealing washer on it. And we’ll tighten her down. And then we can go ahead
and put this back in here while depressing that. And this might actually
be a better way to do it because you want to make sure
this is threading nicely. This is aluminum, that’s steel. If you’re trying to
force that up into this and it’s not threading good, you might not be able to feel it. So we’ll go ahead and pop this in there. We’ll depress the plunger. I know this is probably hard to see. I’m having a hard time
depressing the plunger. Like so. And I’m checking the action on the cam plate with the plunger to make sure it moves freely
and it’s liking each other. You’ll notice this does
have a range of motion. And that’s as far as it’s gonna go. And then these are all
of the different gears. And so basically I’m just testing it. (clicking) Feels real nice. Now this is gonna, I’ve marked this as actually a 71, 72, a little bit different. I don’t like mixing and matching. This one has way further
throw between the gears, but I’m just show you this
because I want you to know which slot does which gear. And you can see that this is
installed in the engine like so and this is first, that notch is neutral, second, third, fourth. Okay, so we can see by looking at this, we can see right now we’re in neutral. And if we go this way, that’d be hitting the shifter down, you’re in first. Neutral, second, we’re going past that
extra notch, that’s third. And then there’s another
extra notch on this one and that’s fourth. So the earlier cam plate
had some extra notches. But that seems to be working real nice. I’m happy with that. So this is gonna be our mainshaft here. This is our layshaft or countershaft. And once again, if we refer to our book, and we go to the diagrams where the transmission gears are shown, you can figure out what gear is what. Right here is a really awesome picture. Let’s orientate it the
same way it is in the book. And you’ll see that this is first gear, third gear, second gear, and fourth gear. So, this is fourth gear. That’s going to get
installed in the bearing that we previously put in the case. Once again, check for wear. This is where your seal’s
gonna ride on this one. Early and late have a different seal size and a different cover. This is the cover that’s gonna go opposite here. We’ll show you this. Go ahead and flip this
around so you can get a look. Obviously if you’ve been following along and watching it come apart, you know where that goes. But we’ll show you anyway. This cover goes here with this seal. And this protrudes through that seal. This right here is what seals the fluid from leaking
out in between those two. So we’re gonna go ahead and install this in the bearing. And you gotta have this in there first because you can’t get this in. You can’t get the cam plate
in if you put this in first. So that’s just gonna go
right in that bearing. Slides right in like that. Check it to make sure
it’s spinning freely. Everything’s good there. Now the next thing we’re gonna do is we’re gonna put our main drive gear on. And this surface of the gear, the sprocket, is what forms a seal on
this seal that we installed a couple videos ago. We did that after we put the case together because it’s much easier
to get that in there. Oh I forgot, I’m doing a 20 tooth on here. We’re not gonna go into gearing. We’re puttin’ a motor together. But the other thing that
I can show you real quick, we can slide this back out real quick. I always like to trial
fit these two parts. I want to make sure that
these slide together, oh, like that. I don’t want to get to the point where I’ve got this in there and now my sprocket won’t go on because it’s not fitting correctly. So once again, put that in there and a little dab of oil on here to
help this slide in the seal. I’m holding this with one
hand so I don’t push it out. And then I’m gonna slide
this over the splines on this and into the seal like so. Now the next thing we
need is our lock tab. Once the nut is on and torqued, you’ll bend this over so
it doesn’t come loose. There we go. Okay, then we’ll go ahead
and get our nut on there. Should go on nice and easy. Shouldn’t be any forcing that. No forcing of nuts. It’s not threading on easily. The threads are boogered, stop. Take it apart, look at it, figure out why, okay. Now, bet you’re wondering
how in good God’s name we’re gonna torque that darn nut. I’m gonna show you. All right, so here’s how
I’m gonna torque that nut. I’ve got this old piece of chain. I’ve wrapped it around the sprocket. I’ve tightened the chain in my vice so when I put my torque wrench on there, it should stay still. Now it’s gonna want to
pull the motor this way as I’m torquing. So what we’re gonna do is we’re just gonna pop this
piece of wood in here to protect the engine. We’re gonna torque this to 90 foot pounds. (clicking) See how it’s pulling the
motor up against the wood? Easy peasy. Oh, easy now. It’s all right, we’re good. Okay, there she is. So now that we’ve got the nut torqued, we can bend over the lock tab. Oh, doesn’t have to be pretty, just has to work. There we go. Now we’re gonna be ready to start assembling the transmission. All right, so we got our main drive gear, lock tab bent down. Now before we proceed with the trany, I want to show you a couple things here. I know I talked about this earlier, but I didn’t show you the gear. Now this is a late one where the main shaft
rides on this bushing, that’s the fit. This one has this machined edge that the seal for this cover rides on when this cover goes over here, and then this seal goes in there. And the reason I’m showing
you this is because there’s two different sizes. Here’s the other cover. This is early, where it
doesn’t have this machined, where the bushing
actually does the sealing. Oh boy, that seal’s so old and hard, I can’t even push that through there. If we get a look here, we can see that the diameter
of those is much different. So basically, just pay attention when you’re ordering new parts. If you have this one,
you get the small seal. You have this one, you get the big seal. Also important if we’re
mixing and matching parts. Here’s what the new seal looks like. And I also want to show you
a couple of worn out gears. When you’re inspecting your tranny, once you’ve disassembled it, and you’ve inspected it before reassembly, what we’re looking for
is things like this. There’s a broken tooth on this one. And this one, there’s some pitting on the teeth. And see right there, it’s all pitted. And you can also see on this one where the gear engages with the next one. When they slide together, it’s pretty worn out there. So these are the kind of
things you’re looking for is wear here, wear on the teeth, or broken teeth. Any of those things, no bueno. Don’t want to use those. Okay so we have one more part to put in the bottom of the crankcase. And what this does, this is your level plug. And the way this works is, when this is threaded up in there, we’ll show you after we put it in. In order to check your transmission level, you’re going to take
this smaller of the two on the bottom of the engine, bottom of the transmission, you’re gonna take this out. And then you can see that, well we’ll go ahead and thread it in. When this is threaded in there, when the transmission level is correct, it will be right at the top of this tube. And so when you’re filling
your tranny when it’s empty, you’ll fill it up until
oil drips out of this hole. And then it’s at that level. So that’s how you can tell your tranny’s at the correct level. You want to put a new sealing
washer so it doesn’t leak. And you’re just gonna thread
that in the bottom right there. Tighten it up. Okay, that’s pretty good. Okay, so if you want to look, you can see the transmission fluid level will be at the top of that standpipe right there. There’s also a copper sealing washer on the smaller one that you’ll remove for checking the level. So you don’t really want
to crank this one down. And if you start taking the little one out and the big one’s coming out too, you might want to put a wrench on it. Or if you’ve drained the
tranny or it’s not filled up, you just want to make sure that the standpipe portion of this is tight in the case, and this one’s not overtightened so that they don’t both come out together. ‘Cause then if you’re filling your tranny, you’ll have a big hole, and all the tranny fluid will
come out on the wherever, it’ll make a mess, okay. So we’ll go ahead and snug that one up. We won’t tighten it all the way because obviously we’re gonna
have to take it back off when we fill the tranny. Okay, now we’re ready to
go ahead and get started putting the gears in the transmission to prepare ourselves for indexing. We’ll talk about the
shift forks real quick. You may notice on the shift forks, there’s gonna be this roller that fits over that pin. And those roll in that cam plate. Well you’ll notice that
the location of those is in a different place. The one that’s more towards the middle is gonna go on the
countershaft or layshaft. The one towards the end is
gonna go on the mainshaft when it’s all installed. And what I like to do for these, I just put a dab of grease on there. And that will hold the roller on there so it doesn’t fall off when I go to put it in the transmission. Okay, we have these two thrust washers. And one will go inside the transmission where the layshaft bearing is that we installed earlier
with the special tool. And also we’ll put a little dab of grease on the back side of this to stick it on the inside of there so it doesn’t fall off as we’re putting the countershaft in. And then the other end of the countershaft will get the same thrust washer right here where the
other bearing is like so. You can also check these for wear. This one has a little wear on it, but it’s not terrible. It’s just one spot. It’s got a little bit of wear. It should be pretty flat. And they look pretty good. If they’re worn down really hard, then you might want to look into getting some replacement ones. We do have those available on the website. So we’ll put some grease on her, on the back side of it, in a couple of spots. And then we’re gonna reach in here. And you’ll notice there’s a little tit. That lines up with that hole. So that has to be indexed in that hole. And it’s kinda hard to
get in there and get it, so you just kinda gotta
fiddle around with it a little bit there. And we missed it completely,
but we’ll get it. There she goes. You kinda gotta put it
in and kinda turn it til it hits the hole where the little dowel
pin is, and there you go. Now that thrust washer’s in
there and it won’t fall off ’cause we’ve got the grease on it. If you look in the book, you’re gonna see, they’re gonna show you
how to index this tranny. I don’t do it the way
they showed in the book. I can’t take credit for the way I’m gonna show you how to do it. If you look on the internet, you’ll find out this is
the Hughie Hancox method. And I’ve found over the years, this basically works the best for me. Probably will work good for you too. You’re gonna put this selector into first gear. And once again, we can grab our, we can grab the one that’s
marked and you can see where first gear is. This is how it is assembled in the engine. And if we look on the back side, we can see that’s first gear. So it’s gonna be positioned like this with the plunger right there. And that’ll be for first gear. So all throughout the assembly, until we get the inner
cover on there for indexing, we’re gonna keep it in first gear. The book’s gonna show you to put it on this notch
between third and fourth. And then you’re gonna
line up a tooth on that with the mainshaft and blah,
blah, blah, blah, blah. This way works way easier, you’ll see. Okay, so we’re gonna go ahead
and put the countershaft in. And you see this, where the two gears come together. That’s where this is gonna ride, like so. And you can have that on there now, that’s perfectly fine. And you’re gonna go ahead. Or you can do it either way. You can put it on afterwards. You’re gonna go ahead and put
your countershaft in, like so. We’re gonna slide these out a little bit. You’re gonna put that
selector fork on there. And then we’re gonna just insert it into that slot on the cam plate. And you may notice this rod is gonna go through
both the selector forks and into a hole on the back side. And right now, there it is lined up. But we’ll show you how
that works in a sec. So now what we’re gonna
do is we’re gonna go ahead and remove these two gears
off of the mainshaft. And we’re gonna set ’em inside the tranny on top of the other gears. And then once we get those
in there with the shift fork, and the shift fork shaft, we can go ahead and slide the mainshaft through the whole mess,
out the other side. And then we’ll have all the
gears except for this one that goes on the layshaft right here. You can’t get these in with that on. So that goes on last. And what we’re gonna do is
we’re gonna go ahead and take the one that goes
all the way in first. And we’re gonna put the
shift fork on it now because it’ll be pretty
difficult to get it in there with the shift fork. So we’re gonna stick it in there. We’re gonna get this piece of
the roller in the cam plate. Don’t be alarmed if
it’s not going right in to where it needs to go. And if that falls out,
it’s not a big deal. Now I can see that the
roller’s just about engaged in the slot where it needs to go. So what I’m gonna do next is, and I’m not worried if those fall out, I’m gonna install the shift fork shaft. And that will help those
stay in the correct place where they need to be for the rest of the assembly. So I’ve got my shift fork shaft started. I haven’t got it through
the second shift fork, the one that goes, and I’m just kinda look in there and verify that it is
starting where it needs to go and it is. And then I’m gonna
slide that home like so. Once again, double check it’s where it needs to be. Then I can go ahead and put that gear, see how that gear is just
sitting on top of the other one? The teeth are holding it up. Okay, now we can go ahead and set this one in there making sure that the shift fork is on that spot right there, like so. And now we’re ready to just
slide the mainshaft through. If everything’s lined
up, should go right in. And it does. All right, now that we
know everything’s lined up, it’s all good, we’re gonna put some oil on here. And then last but not least, we’re gonna put this gear on the layshaft with that side facing in like so. Now, when the other cover goes on here, this gear is actually, this mainshaft is gonna be right there because it’s gonna get pulled this way when we put the kicker gear on. So that’s what it looks
like all assembled. Give that a little push to make sure it’s all the way seated in the back side there. And we can also put some oil on the shift forks where
they’re gonna roll. Little bit of oil in there. Little bit of oil on
the shaft, there we go. Okay, so now we’re ready to go ahead and put the inner cover on. We’re gonna trial fit it, check our indexing, and then we’ll pop it back off and put our gasket with
some gasket cement on there, and finalize the indexing. Once again, a little dab of grease on the back side of the thrust washer to hold it so it sticks on the cover and doesn’t fall off. It’s also important that
you have these two dowels in your crankcase. Make sure those are in place. Sometimes they get stuck on here. But if you don’t have ’em,
you should put some in there. They kind of line everything up. And you can also, we’re in first gear, you can also give her a spin and make sure it turns freely. And it’s trying to walk
out but that’s good, okay. Now when we go to push this home, it’s gonna shove that that way. Don’t worry about that. When we put the kicker gear on, we’ll pull it back this way. So we’ll leave it like that for now. And this is the fun part. We’re gonna go ahead and
get this started on here. Mainshaft’s gonna go through that bearing. The countershaft end of the countershaft’s gonna go into that bearing like so. Okay, now notice it’s just got a gap, but this is locked down. So what you want to do is
you want to pull it back out just a little bit until you can move this. Okay, so we’ve got our quadrant free and it’s all the way up til it’s hitting. And then we’re gonna bring it down and we’re gonna send this, when this starts to come up. That’s like one tooth. And that should be indexed. So once it goes, it hits up, bring it down one tooth. And you can kinda see where it’s at there. Now what we’ll do next is we’ll, oh look, she spins nice. What we’ll do next is we’ll go ahead and
put the kicker gear on. We’ll show you the pieces for this. And there’s a bunch of
stuff goin’ on here. Nothing complicated, just a
bunch of parts to put on there and make sure they’re all there. First, there’s a washer. That goes on first. Then you’ve got the spring and the sleeve that goes down the
middle of this, like so. And then you have the splines that match the
mainshaft on this piece. So you’re just gonna put that all on there like so. See how that’s got the spring action now. That’s for when you’re
kickstarting your motorcycle. So you’re gonna hold that. You’re gonna put a new lock tab. And it has a little piece, they index in one of
those splines like so. And then, finally the nut on the outside. We’re gonna go ahead and
put the three screws in, even though we don’t have the gasket. I’m just showing you
how we’re gonna index it and then we’ll take it back
apart and put the sealer on. And there’s gonna be three screws. This one goes here, cheese head. And don’t crank ’em all
down til you get ’em all in. We’ve got this large Allen head goes here. (clicking) And then this special fastener
here with a small head, and it has a very small washer because there’s a spot right here where it goes, and you can’t put a big washer
on there ’cause it won’t fit. Now we can go ahead and use our cover to check our shifting to make sure that it’s indexed correctly. And then we’ll check to see if it shifts. And I’m not gonna put all the
bolts in here right just yet ’cause I still gotta
put the gasket on there. So I’m just gonna hold
this on to check it. First is all the way down. Second, third, fourth, oh. Look at that. She shifts. Fourth, third, second, first, neutral. First, second, third, fourth. Should shift up and down
like that a hundred times unless you turn the
sprocket or the mainshaft and that misaligns things in there. But when everything’s lined up right, it’s a beautiful thing. We’re back in first. We’ll pop this off. We know what it looks
like, where it needs to be. We can kinda get an idea of where it is. We’ll pop this back off. We’ll put the gasket
and some cement on there and we’ll be done. Now that wasn’t so difficult was it? I think one of the reasons
I put this together dry with no gasket and sealer is because I want to make sure it works before I put my sealer on the gasket. Because then if it doesn’t shift right, then you’re taking the cover off, and putting the cover on, and taking the cover off, and putting the cover on with
sealer and a gasket there. So now that I know it’s right, we can do it again. It’s not a problem. I got some case sealer here. I’m just gonna put a little
bead of this on there. (mellow music) Okay. Put her on for the final whammy. Once again, we’re all the way down. And we’re gonna come up one tooth. That’s it right there. Let’s get our fasteners in back in there. I decided to change this fastener because I noticed when I had
it trial fit the first time that it was stickin’ way out the back. Don’t ask me how the heck
that happened, I don’t know. So we replaced that with an Allen head with the correct fine threads for British motorcycles. Okay, we’ll put our kicker
gear back on, washer first. Sleeve with spring. A lock tab. All right, now that we got
our gasket and our glue, and we’re all tightened down, let’s double check and
verify that it does work before we put the cover
on for the last time. First gear, second, third, fourth. (clicking) And once again, when checking your tranny, if it doesn’t click through all the gears, ever so slightly rotate the main drive gear of the mainshaft, and that’ll get things
lined up inside there and get it to the point where it does what I’m doing right now. Click, click, click. Click, click, click, click, click, click. Then you know when it’s on the road, if it shifts like that
on the bench right now, it’s gonna work when you’re on the road. So I’m confident that we have indexed our transmission correctly. We’re gonna tighten this nut. We’re gonna put a gasket on here. We’re gonna install this kicker gear. We’ll show you how to wind that baby up so she’s tensioned correctly, and we’ll be done with
this portion here today. We need to torque this nut for the kicker gear. Make sure you got that spring located correctly where that ratcheting gear springs back. Torque spec is 45 foot pounds. (clicking) And hopefully it works like this. I’ve never tried this before. And you guys thought I
knew what I was doin’. Oh, that’s tight. All right, we’re gonna
do the same program. We’re gonna lock the chain in
the vice around the sprocket to torque that. And let’s see how this works, gang. There’s 30, let’s go a little more. 45 it is. There she is gang, all torqued up. And then finally we’re gonna
bend the lock tab over. Like so. I know there’s two on there. You don’t need to bend ’em both. Then next time, if you need
to take it apart again, you have another choice. Now all we gotta do. Oh I’m sorry, next thing we’re gonna do is we’re gonna put the feed return on that goes right here on this stud. Much easier to get that on here now than before you put the kicker cover on. New gasket. I think we’ll lean her over so I can see what’s goin’ on. Okay, so I’ve got my gasket. I use this to push it up on there onto that little dowel pin that’s there. And then you’re just
gonna slide this home. Flat washer. And a nut. Well now I know why they normally
have a small nut on here. Hard to get to with this big nut. Where’d that come from? There we go, we got it. Tight. One other thing I usually do with these after I get ’em on the motor is I kinda look at how they’re orientated
to the bottom of the engine. And I’m gonna need just
a little bit more room to get the hoses on. So I’m gonna just give that a little tweak down like that right now while I can because it’s easier to get to. Now I’ve got pretty even with the bottom. All right, we need to put
our kicker gear in the cover. And it’s a good idea to
inspect this surface right here where it rides against that seal to make sure you don’t have a groove, or then it won’t seal the oil. We’ll just put a little bit of, just a little dab of oil on there to help it through that new seal. And I’m sure this is gonna be a tight one. And you know how I love
my rubber hammer, bam. Hey look at that. We shaved a little bit
off of that seal, we did. That’s okay. Seal’s still in there,
it didn’t go anywhere. Okay, then you’re gonna hook the spring on this titty, bam, like so. Now what we need to do
is grab an old kicker to slip it over the
shaft and put a pin on it so we can wind the spring
up so it has tension when you kick it through
that it’ll return. Okay, a little bit of sealer on here like we did before. Careful not to get it in the holes. That should be good. Always use a new gasket. Once again, we got our
little dowels on there. Two dowels on each side. And a little dab of
grease in the hole there. Little bit on there. Take your new kicker, put it on temporarily
to wind up our spring. And we could actually put
a little bit of sealer on this too. Now that we’ve got some sealer on there, we’re gonna wind this baby up that much. And you’ll see in a sec
here when I put this on how this works. Basically, we’re gonna get this started, and then we’re gonna go past where the stop is. And then it’ll go on like so. Go ahead and get your long
screws top and bottom. And I did check the threaded holes all the way on the inside long ago to be sure they were in good shape ’cause there’s nothing like getting to this point of the game to find out you’re tightening
one of these two long screws and it just keeps spinnin’
because the threads are boogered. You’re gonna have two long ones here. And the shorter one goes here. Not too tight. Just right. And then you’ve got a couple
of sealing washers here. And a couple of acorn
nuts to go on the studs. So if you look at the parts book, they show an acorn nut on
the top for decoration, and they show a regular nut on the bottom. But since I happen to have two new acorns, I’m just gonna go ahead and use those. And we also checked all these threads. Make sure everything’s happy together. And now you can, we’ll put her in neutral. There’s our ratcheter. That’s returning pretty darn good there. Woo, we got her wound up. And there it is. That concludes the transmission portion of our 650 rebuild. And as we can all see, we’re gettin’ along pretty good. We got one more area to cover. See you next time guys, woo. (mellow music)

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