Triumph 650 Motorcycle Engine Disassembly & Rebuild Part 12 – Lowbrow Customs
Triumph 650 Motorcycle Engine Disassembly & Rebuild Part 12 – Lowbrow Customs


– Hey, guys. Welcome back. Part 12, Triumph 650 engine rebuild. Today we’re going to
tackle the primary drive. Pretty excited about that. And we’re really getting
close to the end here. (rock music) Let’s go ahead and get
started on the primary drive. I’ve got all my components laid out here. Inspected all the parts, everything’s ready to go back together. We’ll show you some, a couple
tips here on what to look for for wear before we start assembling. If you find some worn parts in there, it’s always a good idea to replace ’em. We’re gonna do this once
and we’re gonna do it right. We’re not gonna put our
clutch together with worn out clutch plates and worn
clutch basket, old chain, primary shoe, adjuster
shoe is gonna be replaced. You know, we’re trying
to renew this and make it as good as we possibly
can with what we have here. We do have the majority
of the parts needed for this job on the website. We’ve got chains, clutch
plates, we’ve got this basket, we’ve got the center, we’ve
got the gaskets, the seals, all the good stuff you
might need to do this job. So let’s go ahead and the first thing we’re gonna look at is the clutch basket. And since this one’s in
good shape or it’s usable, it’s not in perfect condition, but I’ll grab a worn
one and we’ll show you what to look for on that. Here’s one out of the reject
pile and what we’re looking for on here is two
things, uh, three things. We’re looking at the
condition of the teeth to see if any are really worn down. We’re looking at where
these bearings ride. This is a race in here. And we’re most importantly,
we’re looking at where the clutch plates ride in these
grooves, the friction plates. So as you can see on this one,
if you take a look at this, you can see some serious indentations. ‘Cause what’s happening is
every time you’re hitting the clutch, the pressure
plate comes out and releases and then the plates are
banging against this slot and so they get this very common wear. If yours looks like this, you probably wanna consider a new one. This is your clutch center
where your springs go, and you can have the
same problem with these. These don’t generally
wear as quickly as that, but this one’s pretty darn wore out, and I’ll show you the one
we’re gonna use in a sec here. You notice those groovings, same effect that was on the basket I just showed you. Basically, what you
want is the steel plates slide up and down on thOse grooves. And what you want is you
want those to slide nicely. They have to be able to move freely, and if they’re hitting
those boogered up edges, it might not release as well as it could, as if you had a better part in there. Now there’s one other interesting
fact about this that you might not know and you’re
gonna find out in a sec here. If you were to remove these three screws, and I have those removed on
that part, we’ll show you, you’re gonna find some rubber inside here. Well what this does is it acts,
like on a Harley Davidson, they have a big spring on the front. So, as you’re shifting
gears and using the clutch, it’s called a compensator
sprocket and it basically takes up some, it absorbs
some of the shock. So basically, that’s what
this part does inside here, and we’ll show you. This one’s actually from a pre-unit, it has four inch grooves instead of three, but I’ve got this one dissembled so you can see that there’s
a big spider gear in there. I guess you could call it that. And then on this one there’d be a rubber on each side of that,
so it absorbs the shock. If you find that yours looks,
if you take this cover off, which you do need the screwdriver. Uh, let’s see here. That everyone yelled at
me several videos ago, and I did actually find my
impact screwdriver, gang. Yes, I do own one and yes, I did use it to remove the
cover off of that, okay? That’s enough of that. Okay, so you’re gonna use that
impact screwdriver to remove these screws and pop this
cover off and you’re gonna look inside it, and this is
what it’s gonna look like. This is once again, pre-unit
has more rubbers than unit. Four screws, three screws. Basically, pretty much the
same part, but you’ll notice that a pre-unit has a four
spring pressure plate, where a unit has a three
spring pressure plate. So you’re gonna see these rubber in here. You wanna see are they still
soft or are they falling apart? I’ve determined that this
one’s still serviceable. All right, remember back
when we talked about the breather systems on
the crank case for these. This is an early one, it has
the pipe underneath there. The late one will have the vent back here. Early motor, you must install this seal, and that will seal the
crank case from the primary because it’s breathing
out the bottom here. Later one, no seal required
because they’ll be three little holes here where it equalizes
the pressure from the crank case to the primary and goes
out the vent on the back. Technically it’s much easier
to put this seal in before you put the crank shaft in, but
since I forgot to do that, not a problem, we’ll go ahead
and get it installed now. So, let’s do that first. Interesting thing to note,
the lip with the spring on this seal, will be
facing out when we’re done. Like so. Because we’re trying
to seal the crank case from the primary. We’re not trying to seal
the primary to the crank. Multiple times I’ve taken engines apart and found this seal the other way around. I’m sure if you go to
the internet and look on the silly forums, you’ll
find a bunch of controversy over which way to put the seal in. Correct way is like this. Now, now you’re wondering
how are we gonna bang on the outside edge of that
seal with this sticking out and this is the part that seals? Would’ve been much easier
to install it this way where we could tap on this edge. Well, what I’ve done sometimes
in the past is a piece of PVC type tubing plastic for plumbing
works well for installing seals as long as the edge is
riding on the edge of this seal, ’cause we don’t wanna
booger up the center of that. So right now I’ve got it
kinda centered in the hole, I’m looking, I’m gonna give it
a push with my fingers and it doesn’t feel like it wants
to go in, but it looks even. So this morning when I was still over at Lowbrow at the shop, I was digging around my
toolbox trying to find a piece, I had a piece of tubing there, PVC, it was the wrong diameter. So, in the meantime I’m searching
for something that I can bang on the outside of this
that will let me get past the crank and here’s what I came up with. Corkseal driver. Just happened to be the right diameter. No, I’ve already started to
push it in or I’d you show it. The outside edge of this coincides with the diameter of this. So we’re gonna carefully
tap that baby home. (thudding) Okay, I can see that it’s
going in the bottom more than the top, so we’re gonna
give it a whack right here. (thudding) And she’s goin’ in. Looks like it’s in on that
side, but not on this side. (thudding) And look at that. That looks pretty darn good. I’m gonna give it one more
tap just for good measure. (thudding) And there we go. That worked beautifully. So sometimes you have
to improvise when trying to get some of these jobs done. Once again, if you put it in
before you put the crank in, it’s not a problem getting
past the crank shaft. But, we got her done. Okay, now the next thing
we’re gonna do is we’re going to put the seal in this cover, which will be installed right here. So we have a seal in
the center and we have a gasket that goes
around the outside edge. We’ll go ahead and put some silicone on here when we’re ready. It’s not a problem, it won’t hurt anything in here if there’s some silicone. And now this seal and we
also showed you I believe on the last video, about
the two different covers that coincide with the end
of the transmission gear. We’ve got the correct seal, the correct size hole on this cover. We’ll grab a seal driver
and we’ll go ahead and get this installed. And once again, this is gonna be the same program as this one. Let’s get ‘er done. So if you’re unsure as to
which way to put this seal, I know it’s gonna go this
way with the spring facing out to seal this, to seal the primary. If you’re unsure, consult your manual. There’s a picture of it right there. Oil seal and gearbox sprocket. And you can plainly see that the spring is facing out like so. All right, so I’m gonna flip this over and I’m gonna put it in from this side with this little seal driver
tool and a little hammer. So again, anytime you’re
installing a seal, try to get it as straight as you can before you start hitting it. And if it goes cattywampus,
you’ll just fix it. (banging) All right, she’s down
pretty far on that side, but not this side. So what I like to do now
is I like to beat on just the driver portion of the
tool and not the center ’cause then that darn thing
doesn’t wanna fit in there. So she’s down all the way there,
but up just a little there. So just hit just the
side that needs to go in. (banging) And there we go. Looks pretty good. Seal installed. The spring facing this way. Okay, we’re ready to put
some silicone on there. I like to use new screws on these. If you remember, I chiseled ’em off because I couldn’t find
my darn impact hammer. But even if I would’ve
been able to find it, these are still a bear to get outta there. So I just get some new ones. And I’m also gonna put a dab on blue Loctite on the new screws. I like to put a little bit of silicone in between the screw holes. I don’t wanna get it on the screw holes. And then what I do next is I just put a little bit on this edge. ‘Cause if you remember when
we took that cover off, she was a pretty tight. And so, basically we’re just
doing this so we can keep the fluid that’s in the
primary in the primary, and not have it coming out
in between the cover here. A little bead around there. Now when you go to put
this on there you wanna try to get those darn holes
perfect ’cause it’s hard to turn this once it’s on there. And the other thing I’m gonna
do is I’m just gonna put a little dab of oil on the
seal to help it slide over that end of the fourth gear
that’s sticking out there, where the main drive sprocket is. A little bit of oil on there. Stick our gasket on. That silicone is helping
that stick and stay there. So it’s not like you gotta have a glob of silicone on there to get it to work. (clears throat) Sometimes you can’t move
that thing like I just did, but there’s the cover on, seal looks good. Now we’ll put a bit of little dab of blue Loctite on these screws. ‘Cause we don’t want ’em to come out. Everything’s nice and dry and clean here. Loctite should work fine. Now that we’ve got all six screws in, we’ll go ahead and tighten ’em down. And you may have noticed
this may be the first time I’ve used any Loctite on
this entire motor job. Most things have lock tabs or lock nuts. And I sure didn’t wanna put
red on here ’cause once again we’ve got a steel fastener
going into an aluminum threaded hole and they don’t need to be tight until the cows come home. Just enough to seal ‘er up. All right, we need to
reinstall this little tube here and what that does is the
stater wires go through that tube to exit on the
back side of the engine. I don’t normally put any
sealer or anything on there. I think it’ll be fine. (grunting)
Nice and tight. And now we’re gonna put the primary shoe, adjuster shoe on next, and I order to do that we’re gonna have to take the adjuster shoe,
this is where you would access to tighten your chain as this plug bolt, whatever you wanna call it right here. And notice I’ve got a nice big, thick, fat fiber washer on there
to keep it from leaking. And so we’re gonna unthread the adjuster. This is the part where
you’d put your tool, your official Lowbrow tool. So here’s a tool that we
made that you can stick in that hole and turn it
with a wrench and then it rides on this groove here like so, and when you’re tightening this, that little concave thing
is pushing against this and it bows this up and
puts tension on the chain. You’ll see when we get there. Any rate, we gotta have that off of there. And then on the front of this,
this is the original part and you wanna double
check your threads on here are all in good shape. We got a couple that are
a little weirded out, and this is a brand new
part because the one that was on here was completely trashed. So basically, if you’re
putting a new shoe on, you’re gonna slide this
pin that I’ve already put in here with a hole in it in this end, and then you’re going to
put this little dealio here is gonna slide through that
and then this is gonna slide onto this little fork and notice
how there’s a flat on this, and that flat is gonna
go in that fork like so, so that this ends up right there, but going through the middle of this. And once again, when you’re
putting your new shoe on, make sure that you’ve
got the shoe material to the inside like this one is. Because see how it doesn’t
go all the way across. So then we’re gonna orientate this so the flat is facing there, we’re gonna slide this on
there, get that flat lined up, and just give it a little shove. And when everything’s clean
like this, it goes right on. Look at that, piece of cake. Now you’re gonna take this
chinga, stick it through the hole, use your tool and
get it engaged in the slot, which sometimes that
can be a booger, a bear. Ah, come on here. Here, let’s shove it. Oh, she’s already started. We’ll shove this back out
and get it started now ’cause it’s a, there we go. And then I’m just gonna run that adjuster piece to take up the slack here. I don’t wanna start
turning it on the shoe. Now it’s contacting that
and it’s still flat. You see this thing’s kinda springy. So you’ll see after we put the chain on, we’ll use that to tension the chain. So now we’re ready to prepare
the other parts to go on. Well you have to put the
basket, the front sprocket, chain, clutch, all this on in one motion, because if you put the
front on or you put the back on first, you can’t
get the chain on, okay? So let’s go ahead and we’ll do this next. What this is, is there’s a whole bunch of loose roller barrings here. There should be 20 of them there. And we’re just gonna grab a dab of grease. And we’re gonna grease
the baby up right here where the bearings ride. Don’t need to overdue it. Just need enough on there to
get those bearings to stick to this part, because you’ll
see why in a sec here. Okay. That should work. Now you’re just gonna lay these little barrel bearings right on there like a so. One after another. And you’ll see on this
part, I didn’t show you, but there’s kind of a race
built into it where these ride. And this is what lets your
clutch spin around on there. And there we go. Now, we’ll just give a
quick count of those, just to be sure. Probably shoulda counted ’em
before we put ’em on there, but it’s not a big deal. We’ll start at this hole and
we’ll go one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Make sure all 20 are on there, and if you want to you can
put a little dab of grease on this and this is the
race that those ride on. You can see it’s pressed into this basket. So just another little dab of
grease won’t hurt anything. Make sure your thrust
washer is on there like so. That rides against the back of this. Some of these have a shiny side and a side that looks similar to this one in color. This one did not, it has
the same on both sides. Either way around, if yours is shiny, put the gold colored side facing this. Like so. Look at her go, look at that. Woo! So now, I really always like to use a new chain and a new adjuster. Like I said, we’re rebuilding this motor. I don’t know how old that chain is or how many miles it has on it. And I’ll tell ya a real quick story while I’m putting this on here. Now, one time a few years
ago I put one together. A few years ago I was doing
this same job and trying to be cheap, reused
the shoe and the chain. When I put it all together
and I had everything all tightened up and ready
to rock and when I went to adjust the chain, this
thing looked like this. It was bowed up so far in the middle that I knew darn well the chain was worn out. So then I had to take it all back apart, and I replaced the shoe and
the chain and when I tighten this just a couple of turns
and this barely moved up about that much and the
chain was tensioned. Ever since then, it gets a
new chain and a new shoe. All right, so I’m just
putting the cover back on this with the three screws. And if you’re curious as to
how to change those rubbers, basically you’re gonna separate it like the other part I showed
you, take it apart. You’re gonna take both sides off, there’s screws on both sides of this. Now you’re gonna remove
the old scrutty rubbers, which generally come out pretty
easy when they’re worn out, and then what I’ve found is a
good, easy way to do this job, basically you have to turn that
spider gear in there to drop a rubber in and you get the
first three in and then it’s too far this way to get the other ones in, so you may notice on my lock
plate tool that we’ll use in a few minutes to torque the center nut, I’ve drilled a couple of
holes and I have a piece of strap steel that I
can bolt to this and then I can put this, put the center in the vice and use this to turn it
to drop the rubbers in. And I believe there is a really
good YouTube video on that. It wasn’t done by me, it
was done by someone else, but if you are really curious on how to change those, it’s out there. So we’re not gonna go over that today. Just in case you were
wondering, it is out there. Okay, I’ve got my three
screws in, she’s tight, she’s all clean, she’s inspected. Need to put these three studs
in the back side of this before we put it on there because you can’t put ’em on later. Notice how they have a flat. The flat rides up against
that edge and keeps those from turning and these
are for your springs and your pressure plate adjusters. So what I do for this is I
put all three in and then I kinda put a little pressure
on it with my fingers, so that as I put it over that
spline that this coincides with, these don’t drop
down and screw things up where I have to take it back apart again. She’s a tight one. (grunting) She’s a real tight one. (thudding) There she goes. Should slide on that pretty easy. If it doesn’t, don’t worry about it. It’ll be all right. Just make sure it’s bottomed out and that these aren’t
jammed up at the bottom. So, now we’re ready to put
this big mess on there, but first we gotta have
a key for the main shaft. There’s a keyway on the main
shaft and technically speaking the key is not really holding
this to keep this turning, it’s the taper on this
shaft going to the taper on this center part is
what keeps it together. This just helps it along. So we’re gonna put our key on there. Make sure she’s down in the groove. Make sure she’s a groovy
key and she’s sticking up one side like these keys like to do. There, now she’s down. Perfect. Now, it’ll center itself
when that goes on. And notice I’ve also got
this keyway facing up because it’ll make it easier when I get to the other part here
that we’re gonna do. Review real quick, got everything in there that we need to have in
before we put that on. And notice how I’ve got my
keyway facing straight up for when I lift this all up to put it on. And another thing that
doesn’t hurt, we’ll pop this off real quick and generally
if this is the part that came off this crank,
it should be a nice fit. That’s a pretty nice fit. It’s not loose, but it’s not tight. Sometimes like we saw,
we did have to, remember, we pulled this off of there,
it was stuck on there. But we, right now we
don’t wanna hammer it home if we don’t have to. So we know that that’s gonna slide on that spline nice and easily. We’ve got our key on, we’ve got that. Now we’re ready to pick
this whole thing up and slide it all on. And the biggest part
about doing this next part is making sure that that
key is in that groove. Sometimes, same thing with
the camza, can push the key up and outta there and
that’s not what we want. So we’ve got that centered. Let’s give ‘er a whirl. Gotta get the chain up past. Then you gotta get this spline started. There she goes. And then you can generally
slide that on to the key and slide that home into our seal. I can see that that’s on the
key because the main shaft is turning the same time with this part. You’re gonna find two different
arrangements on this nut that goes on here. Early ones will have a lock tab
where you slide the lock tab on first, you put your nut on
and then you reach in there with a screwbadriver and
you bend the tab over. Later ones had this
special locking washer. Well, technically I probably
should be using a new locking washer, but I am going
to use some red Loctite. This big, thick, flat
washer is gonna go on first. That’s gonna disperse the load. And now I’m going to use the
Lowbrow Custom’s Barbie stairs and the Lowbrow Custom’s lock to lock these together to torque this nut. So we’ve got our socket
handy for that, there’s that. Let’s grab our torque
wrench and some red Loctite. And just for the heck of
it, we’ll refer to the book. Check our torque spec. All right, I’ve consulted
with my 1967 torque specs, and it says the clench
center nut is 50 foot pounds. Well, then just for the heck of it, that one would’ve had a lock tab. I got a later year model book and it says the same darn thing. Clutch center nut, 50 pounds. So irregardless of whether
you have the lock tab or the special nut, it’s
still gonna be 50 pounds. Let’s get her torqued. Set our wrench up. Lock her down, there’s 50 pounds. We got our flat washer on there. We’re gonna put some Loctite on her. (clanking) We’ll run it down with this first. (clicking) All right, look at that. I can’t tighten that,
it’s turning and turning. Clutch locking plate tool. Just line up those grooves where
the clutch plates would go, like so. All right, so we’re gonna ahead and put the Barbie stairs in here. That will keep the chain
from turning while this keeps this from turning, then
we’re ready to torque it. Regular thread, not left handed. (clicking)
Oh, still got a little ways to go to get to the end there. Let’s run it down with a ratchet until we get all the way to the
end and then torque it. (clicking) There she is at the end now. Kinda hard to tighten it up
with this giant wrench here. There she is, 50 foot pounds. Badabing. All right, I’ve often
had customers question me on this little bit of
wobble we got goin’ on here, and that’s perfectly
fine when this is like, see this should, check this
when you get it all together, should spin nice and free. And you’re gonna have
that little bit of wobble, that’s just the way it is. Once you get all the
clutch plates in there and the pressure plate on, it’ll be solid. So uh, and look at that
with our new chain, our shoe barely turned at all. Look at ‘er. It’s almost tensioned now, I
haven’t even adjusted it yet. All right. Next thing I would like to talk about is the clutch push rod. You’ve got this big long rod,
it goes in the hole here. Look at her. Goes all the way to the other side of the engine to the clutch release. Here’s one that’s no bueno. If you adjust your clutch pressure plate, this center screw right here. That hardened tip of that, you can see, look how shiny that sucker
is from pushing against the end of one of these things. When we get to the clutch
adjustment you’ll see why it’s important to have some
free play in your cable at the handle bar, and also when
we adjust this center screw, you’re gonna turn it down
until it just starts to lift and then you’re gonna back it off. And what’s that’s doing is
it’s relieving the pressure so that this rod is not pushing
against that adjuster really hard like that, 24/7 or then
it ends up looking like that. Mushroomed. So inspect your rod for
the ends being mushroomed and you can also take it in
your kitchen on your granite countertop, if you got granite
countertop, if you don’t, maybe a piece of plate glass
and you’re gonna roll it. Does it look like it’s bent or does it look like it’s straight? You don’t want a bent push
rod that has mushroomed ends in there, ’cause you want your clutch to work as good as it can. Ah, one other thing I like to do on these is put a little grease on her. I know it’s just going
through a big fat hole in the middle of that shaft, but anyway we can help
things move along here. Look at that, oh yeah. There she is, bam. This push rod has been inspected. The ends aren’t mushroomed
and it is straight. All right, at this time
I think we’ll go ahead and put the studs in
the case for the stater. This little, this one will
face out, the hex will face out and that will go in and
technically it’s got two different threads on there, you
can’t put it on backwards. Oh, it’s nice working
with a clean crank case where you’re not forcing things together. I’m just gonna temporary
put these back on here so they don’t get lost in the shuffle. And then we’ve got two
long ones, top and bottom. This one’s got a little chain drag mark on it from a loose primary chain. So we’ll just go ahead and put
that one back on the bottom. Oh, wait, stop. Regroup. This is something else
that you need to check, to make sure they’re straight. If you get one of these that’s
bent, which is very common, it’ll be very difficult
to install your stater when it comes to that
portion of the program. Generally the long ones you can sight ’em and look and see if
they’re bent over or not. This one generally doesn’t
bend as easily as these do. So just give it a quick
visual before you install it. I probably got some bent ones
around here I can show ya. Once again, not uncommon to
see that mark from if the chain’s worn or loose, it can
come in contact with that. We’re not so concerned about that. It’s not going to prevent this stater stud from doing its job. Plenty tight enough. Don’t need to crank it down too hard. And the final one. Give it a visual. Oh look, that one’s got the
same darn drag mark on it. Not only will these support our stater, these two front ones will
be sticking out the primary to put the final two nuts
on with the sealing washers. Tight enough, very good. All right, the next thing
we’re gonna do is we’re gonna go ahead and install the
rotor for your electrical, and we’ve got a, this long square key is gonna go in this
slot on the crank shaft. That’s what will locate the rotor. Now, oh, wait, wait a minute. We gotta have this big,
fat washer on there to space the rotor out first, I’m sorry. And then we’re gonna put
the key in the groove. She’s a tight one. Sometimes if you look at the profile, this one looks pretty darn square. If you look at the profile,
you can see the marks on it from where it was installed
before and you’re gonna run that all the way up to that washer
and don’t be alarmed that it’s sticking off the end,
that won’t hurt a darn thing. And she’s having a hard
time gettin’ in the groove. She’s not gettin’ in the groove. (tapping) There we go. There’s our key for our rotor. Now you may also notice that
my stud is not in the hole. This one here. Not a problem. I think I actually talked
about it, I did replace this. If yours comes off looking
like this, it’s not a problem, you can put it together like
this or if you so desire you can remove the stud from this nut and Loctite it in there. It really doesn’t make
much of a difference, it’s just gonna keep the rotor on there, and that is gonna get a lock
tab, a bend over lock tab on there too after we get the rotor on. Okay, we’re ready to put
the clutch plates in, but before we do so I’ll show
you a worn out drive plate. We’ll compare it to a new one here. Notice how small the
little teeth are on there, where they ride in the basket. Look at that. And once again that’s from
the clutch plate going like this when you hit the clutch. So we won’t worry about that. Okay, we’re gonna start
with a friction plate in first, goes in first. Correct order. And we’ll go to a steel plate. Now on these new steel
plates that we have here, you’ll notice that one side’s very flat and one side is just slightly rounded. You can, it’s hard to see,
you probably won’t be able to see it, but I always
put the flat side in. That’s gonna go on the center. Okay, so we have a friction plate, a steel plate, then another friction. Basically we’re just gonna
put ’em all in alternating and you should end up with a steel plate when you get to the end. Simple. No problem. Now we’ve got our clutch
push rod already in there with a little dab of
grease on the end of it. Go ahead and install our pressure plate. And I’ve also replaced
these three springs. I believe we went over
that earlier in the series, but I’ll go ahead and reiterate that one. So, when you take your old springs out, set ’em up on the workbench
and compare the lengths. If one looks a little
shorter or a little longer than the other, they’re probably worn out. Pretty inexpensive to put new ones in. Notice on the plate,
on the pressure plate, we’ll take one of these cups out. See there’s a square
slot and then on the cup where the spring goes in,
there’s a little titty. Make sure you when you’re assembling that that titty lines up with that little cutout on there. Okay I’m gonna turn my adjuster out. It’s probably good. And then you’re just gonna put
your pressure plate over your three studs, put your cups
down in the holes, like so. Insert your three springs, and then we’re gonna get these started. Kinda gotta push on the
spring just a little bit. And don’t forget, we checked
all our threads on those three studs before we put
the center in to make sure that these thread on there nicely. Now we have this official
Lowbrow Customs tool and you’ll see why it’s
made like this with a hole in the center in those two
because when you get down towards the end, the stud’s
gonna start sticking out through the middle of that. This is designed to be used
with a socket and a ratchet. And technically until
it gets to that point, you can use a screwdriver, like so. But notice how it doesn’t really fit in the slot very good, does it? So I’ll run ’em down a
little bit with this. Ah, we’ll switch back to our tool. (clicking) And I can just see the stud
poking through on that one. And that one. And we’re gonna pretty much
just make ’em all even for right now because we are gonna need
to true our pressure plate. Once we’ve got the engine
installed in the frame and we’ve got the cable hooked up and
the center adjustment done, at that time we’ll go ahead
and true the pressure plate. We’re gonna show you that. Basically what you’re doing, I’ll just explain it real quick. And there they’re all about even. So when I’m referring to and
truing the pressure plate, when you’ve got this all adjusted up, we can go ahead and run
this down right now, even though we don’t have the cable on. Okay. And what I’m referring to is when you put your clutch cable in,
it moves that rod that goes through there pushes against
this adjuster and moves the pressure plate out and
that’s what releases the clutch. Well, you want this plate to run true. So what we’ll show you is
clutch in, plate released, and we’ll use the kick starter
to turn the motor over. And just this part will spin,
the motor won’t turn over. Just this will spin because
the clutch is released and you’ll see that it
may be going like this. The very edge of this,
you’ll sight down the edge, and if it’s going like
this, then it’s not true. So then you’ll tighten or
loosen the three screws until your plate runs nice and true. Okay, so that’s all there is to that. Start with a friction, end with a steel up against the pressure plate. You don’t have to worry about
those adjustments just yet, we’ll do that once we get it in the frame. So now we can move along and go ahead and get our rotor and stater installed. Okay, so new rotor, new stater. I don’t want an old rotor
and stater in my fresh motor. I want a new rotor and stater. Rotor, once again, nothing
more than a large magnet. Here’s how your rotor will
come to you with these big hunks of metal on
it, and that’s to keep it from losing its magnetism
while it’s in the box. Ow. So you gotta peel those
things off of there. (clanking) I like to use the 200
watt stater that we stock. Pairs well with the
Podtronics voltage regulator. There’s that. Okay, so we’ve already
installed our key on our crank. We’ve already got our
spacer washer on there. So this should just slide
right on there over the key. Let’s double check our key. Oh, she’s sticking up just a skosh. Imagine that. (tapping) There she is, down in the groove. In the groove. Whoa. Huh, huh. Hey, that’s a tight one, jeez. I don’t want to have
to hammer my rotor on. Hm. I just happen to have an old rotor here. Let’s see how this one fits. Wow, would you look at that. It goes right on. Hm. Let’s just check the hole size
real quick, because we can. Now we’ll do this in inches. There’s our new one. About .748. Let’s just try the one
that just slid on nicely. .749. So it’s really not that much difference. It’s close but no cigar. So I think what I’m gonna do, is I’m gonna grab my Dremel
with a sanding drum on it, and I’m just gonna
finesse that just a skosh, ’cause I really don’t wanna hammer it on. Even though it would probably go on. Got me a Dremel with a sanding drum. (whirring) Let’s give that a whirl. I know what you’re thinking. It’s a brand new part, it
should fit right on there. That’s not always the case. Sometimes things need to be
finessed just a little bit, and look at that dang mess
I made on that magnet. Okay. Let’s see if she goes. Oh wait a minute, there’s a little bit more beard fuzz on the other side there. There we go. Let’s see how she goes now. Oh, she’s still really tight. Let’s just buzz her around
a couple more times. (whirring) Let’s see how she fits now. Oh, look at that. That’s better. That’s better, we’ll just give her one little tap to seat her against that. There we go, look at that. There she goes. Now we did have to beat
her on, but not so much as we would’ve if we wouldn’t
of give it a quick sand. Okay, now we have a lock tab and the nut. Notice the lock tab has a tang,
coincides with the keyway. So as you’re tightening this down, right now it’s not really
doing much of anything. But when you get towards the
bottom, oh see now it is, make sure the lock tab is sitting flat with the keyway and the rotor. Like so. Okay? Now we’re just gonna tighten
this down and bend the lock tab over and then we’ll be
ready to put our stater on. All right, once again we’ll consult the Triumph rebuild
manual for torque spec. Or your workshop manual,
whatever you have handy. And let’s see here. Rotor nut, 50 foot pounds. Whoa, that seems a little excessive. Well, let’s give her a
whirl, see what happens. Let’s run it up to 40
and see how she feels. Now… (clanking) We’re gonna need our Lowbrow
Customs Barbie stairs in there. Ah, other way around, silly. (clicking) I would say that’s probably
plenty tight at 40. Let’s call it a day at 40. We do have a lock tab here. It’s not like the rotor’s gonna fall off. All right, pick a spot. Get her started with a screwbadriver. And we’ll finish her off
with a pair of pliers. Like so. And that’s what it should look like after you’ve bent your lock tab. That’ll keep that nut from coming loose. It doesn’t have to be pretty. It just has to do its job. Okay, moving right along to the stater. Wire will face out. If you put the wire in, it
may get eaten by the chain. This is a later, I’m sorry, an
earlier motor where the wires are gonna get put through this
and come out the other side. Where on a later motor,
they come out here. No hole on this motor there. It’s down here. Sometimes these can be a real
bear going through that hole. So what I like to do
is I’ll push these pins so that they’re not
right next to each other. Kinda get one behind the other. And let’s give it a whirl. Hey, that felt like it went pretty well. Let’s have a look and see if
we’re coming through where we need to be and how it looks
on the other side before we go puttin’ that on to find out we
gotta take it off to fix it. All right, I think I’m gonna put a little bit of WD40 on here. I’ve gotten the, the two
metal ends are through. And that WD is making all the
world of difference there, and you can see how this thing’s
a little weirded out too. We’ll straighten that up. You can see how this is much
easier to get that sucker through there before you put it on. Oh, I think we went a little too far. Okay, so once again,
wire is gonna face out. Now, let’s pull that back out just a little bit ’cause
we’re going good there. Okay, so the three studs are gonna go through these three holes. Ignore the other two. Don’t ask me why they have those there. They’re obviously not even big
enough to fit over the stud. So you’re gonna start it
over the two long studs first ’cause obviously it won’t go over the short one until it gets there. Then you wanna put this thing on as even as you possibly can. Okay. Now see it’s started
both the two long studs. Oh, that’s good. And then just kind of
ease it over the magnet. Nice and smooth. Okay now, I can see that it’s
a little further on this one than that one, so then
we’ll just pull it back off just a skosh, ’cause it really needs to go on as evenly as possible. And the reason it’s not
just sliding right on is ’cause if you look at the edge of this, it’s a whole bunch of
plates of metal all stacked together and they’re
dragging on these threads. And so, it can be a job
to get it on there even, but we’re gonna get it. It seems like it keeps wanting to go on that one more than that one. Pull it back off again. Seems like it’s sticking
on this top one a little. Well, I tapped it on side to
side and you can plainly see that the lamination here
has gotten all weirded out. Once again, you know,
reproduction parts are great and wonderful, but sometimes
it’s not the end of the world when we put the washer
and the nut on there, it should flatten that back down, it won’t effect the operation of this. We do wanna get all
three of our nuts started and the next important thing
we’re gonna do is we’re gonna check the air gap between
the rotor and the stater. It needs to be eight
thousandths all the way around. Rotate the motor, check it in three spots. Rotate it, check it in three spots. Ah, we’ll put our nuts
on, we’ll tighten ’em down and we’ll determine if we
need to pull the sucker back off and bend the
studs to get our clearance because that’s really the
only way you can do that. I don’t really like to hammer it home. It was having a hard time. It looks like maybe one
of these three studs, it may be this one, is
off ever so slightly where it bent that. Once again, not the end of the world. We’ll go ahead and put
the locking nuts on here and see where we’re at for our air gap. Deep socket required. (clicking) (reggae music) Okay, there we go. Now we’re ready to check to make sure that we have proper clearance. Go ahead and get this in
there the rest of the way. Okay, once again, eight
thousandths feeler gauge. Just gonna stick it in between
the rotor and the stater. There she is in there. Try it in several different places. Look at that. It’s beautiful. Now, obviously it is gonna fit looser if it’s not right on a magnet. So you do wanna try it. That’s a tight spot. So there’s an edge of
the magnets right there. It’s got plenty of clearance. Pretty happy with that. Not so worried about
that, that’ll be fine. Now we’ll go ahead and rotate the motor. Now I know we don’t have
any push rods in her, but we’ll go ahead and loosen
up the spark plugs anyway. Okay, we’ll rotate the
motor to a new position, and we’ll check it again. I’m pretty happy with that. And the reason we’re doing
this is because you don’t want the magnet to come
in contact with the rotor. If they touch each other, they’re not gonna like
each other all that well. They’ll be angry with
each other pretty quickly. I you do determine that your
clearance is off or you got a real tight spot on one
side and not on the other, you can bend the studs ever
so slightly to move it. If you find it’s real
bad, no matter what you do it won’t work, then you
might wanna check the run out on the end of the crank
shaft, which is very unusual to find that on one of these engines. That actually went pretty
smooth other than the fact that we bent that right there going on. Once again, we didn’t hurt anything. Got my wire all the way through. And that pretty much concludes
this portion of the build, as I’ve mentioned repeatedly,
we can’t do our final torque on the cylinder head and
install our push rods until it’s in the frame. So, the next time we get
together, I actually have another engine in a frame, that’s
at the same point where we need to be to complete this mission. So the chassis for this
engine is not done, it won’t be done for quite
some time and I know you guys wanna see the final portion
of our engine rebuild series. And so next time we get
together we’ll go ahead and show you that and we’ll see you then. Woo! (reggae music)

22 thoughts on “Triumph 650 Motorcycle Engine Disassembly & Rebuild Part 12 – Lowbrow Customs”

  1. Sold to be Diers says:

    ''Barbie Stairs'' Tickled shit out of me Todd…
    Wife up & left her jigsaw puzzle table, just to see how they was being abused.
    Bless her Idaho sugar beet homesteadin' heart; she had no time from the field, let alone
    the funds for hardly any dolls period. Made it up with a vengence though, reckon to date, she owns damn near every one of 'em ever made & their asphyxiant baggages to boot. Don't pretend to know all their names… but i'm pretty damn sure they all know mine as ''Oh Him, That Biker!''.
    Obligements for bringin' to bear all them parts & particulars that are goin' on while plowin' down the road on mine. -DU69160 21119

  2. tez zajac says:

    Top work👌 videos have all been a great help so far

  3. SWISHER TV says:

    Judging by the length of this mans mane, I conclude that I would let him work on any of my bikes lol

  4. Eric Grossmann says:

    My uncle gifted me a 69 Scrambler and I am really interested in your build series. I can’t wait until you tune the bike mine runs but looses power at about 3000-3500 rpm’s I just want to get it running as good as possible. Plus I need to track down the original pipes I have A65 headers on it right now

  5. Gary CB says:

    Totally enjoy these videos. And I don't even own a Triumph ! (Have a BSA).

  6. Shed Built Moto says:

    Once again excellent job! 👍

  7. Jason Friend says:

    Just love it, always learn something new. Changing those clutch centers is super easy with a simple jig using an old steel clutch plate and clutch center.

  8. martin murphy says:

    Thanks for another great video. Any chance of rebuilding a norton commando engine next?

  9. Kenny Pruitt says:

    If I was waiting on these videos to accually follow along for a rebuild, it would never be done………but if you bendge watch all of them in a row it's definitely a good how to series. Great job& thank you

  10. Tony tony says:

    People moan but they must be watching as well ? Handy man can pick some thing up

  11. Get Lost says:

    F'ing Amazing I just bought a beater hardtail now I can learn about my future while the weather matches the bikes shape. Thank You.

  12. Kevin T says:

    Really enjoying watching the series, I'm rebuilding my 72 Bonneville here in Birmingham UK. It's great when you get to the stage of assembling with all good clean parts.

  13. Christopher Smith says:

    Thanks Todd, another entertaining and informative video! I got my bearings in the crankcases tonight. My engineering mate Rae Amos of Uxbridge, UK has a hand press and made the job real easy. Tomorrow I pick up my crankshaft from Basset Down Balancing in Hungerford, UK and then I am good to start putting it all back together. Can't wait!

  14. John Oleary says:

    Thank you.
    Followed all videos. Sub'd & Liked.
    Compliments on professional presentation.
    Camera work great.
    Likeable personnality.
    Loveable engine.
    Ride safe.

  15. Chris Tidmas says:

    Just love your videos.You are a great tutor and I like your sense of humour.Have subscribed and would like to know when part 13 is going to be made available.

  16. Mikkel Johansen says:

    Hi Todd. Thanks a bunch some great videos!

    Quick question about the clutch center nut that I hope will answer – after I torque the clutch basket down to 50 Ft-Lb the center og the clutch does not spin freely.

    The thrust washer is with specs so I can not figure out what is “holding” it and keeping it from spinning.

    Any advice?

  17. Steve Walden says:

    I have been enjoying these videos as well. Informative and entertaining!

  18. Sylvain VIVIER says:

    Hello your video are perfect
    I really appreciate to learn from you
    Best regards from a French guy

  19. Dottorg77 says:

    😂 love the reggae music on the background. How can I get in touch with you?

  20. Rob Frye says:

    Hi Todd!Great vids on this project, comes in pretty handy for newbies and especially we old farts with poorly functioning memories!  Very excellent info, and thank you very much for taking the time to do this!  Presently building the 650 from my '70 Tiger.

  21. Rob Frye says:

    The rotor nut is torqued to 30 ft.lb. and not 50.  I believe you mistakenly looked at the number for the clutch nut which is 50ft.lb.

  22. Brad Bjerga says:

    Please do a 1980 Yamaha XS650 special 2 engine at some point!!! 😁 the whole series, this info is amazing

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