Hi I’m Bob Schmidt with HomeRemodelWorkshop. So you decided you’re going to go ahead and frame those
basement walls in or put those walls down on to that concrete surface and it comes time that you need to anchor that treated plate down to the concrete there’s a quick simple way of doing
that, and I’ll show you how to do it. Let’s get to work What this is called is a split drive
concrete anchor I like to use three inches long for
anchoring two-by-fours down to concrete what it has are these little flutes that
are premade into it and this nail is hardened so that when
this drives into that concrete it just compresses it like no other, it wants to hold it’s form and it holds awesome. Whenever working with hardened nails they don’t have a tendency to bend they have more of a tendency to break off and split and shoot off like a little
bullet always make sure you wear eye protection you’re also going to be using a hammer
drill and it has a tendency to be loud so you also have to make sure you protect
your ears you’ll need a framing hammer and just a simple drill with a quarter-inch wood bit once you have your line down where you
know where your going to want that wall to go I like putting these anchors about every
two foot on center roughly, except for obviously in the doorway openings if
you’re gonna cut that plate out later I take my quarter inch bit and somewhere towards the center of the wall plate I like to drill that hole with a quarter inch bit first once you have your quarter inch holes drilld with your wood bit through your wood plate making sure that you put on your eye and ear protection what I like to do is take a hammer drill with a concrete bit for a 3 inch split drive I always like to drill my hole a half inch deeper than my split drive that way if there’s
any dust or debris in the hole it still has plenty of room so that it doesn’t bottom out
before it hits the top so I put this piece of tape on here as a
stop now you take this quarter inch hole here where you drilled with the wood bit, you make sure you move this over to the line make sure it is exactly where you want and you
drill right through the plate into the concrete until you get down to that tape now once I’m sure I’m down to that tape
I like to plunge the bit in and out to try to clear out some of the dust out of
the hole then I go ahead and I wipe that access dust away so that it’s not clogging up the hole later on. Simply tap your split
drive into the hole get it down through the plate and you can feel when it hits the concrete it will line itself right back up where it was get your hand out of the way making sure your eye protection is on and go ahead and drive that split drive
down, now if you drive that split drive down to where its just a little bit below the
surface let’s say when you come through here and put your wall studs in unlike other anchors you can put your
wall stud up right over the top of that split drive and it’s not going to be in
the way. Just to show you an example of how well these hold make sure you put these on the line and
in the right place before you drive them in uh… I’m gonna go ahead and try to pull this
plate up, say I made a mistake driver in under that plate with my ripping bar lift it up and as you can see the plate may give up but the anchor doesn’t uh… now if I put a pry bar on this or whatever and
try to pull this up, I’m probably going to blowout a big chunk of concrete so to make sure that I don’t have that
happen again wearing your safety glasses safety
protection tap the split drive side to side like this and because it’s a hardened nail it will have a tendency to want to break versus bend so after you tap it side to side a few times it will break off so there you go, the split drive pretty much a way of assuring that your
wall plate stays anchored down to that concrete exactly where you want it. I’m Bob Schmidt with HomeRemodelWorkshop and if you like this tip, please subscribe, if not, check out our home channel, we have many other videos there. Thanks.


  1. ah4fecksake says:

    @Rechkalov7 ha…been cheating that way meself for years.Really works well funny enough.

  2. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @halleysmommy A good connection between top and bottom of wall is critical to keeping wall stable. As far as the holes in floor, unless you have a serious water pressure problem comming from below is generally not an issue.+++Bob P.S Never be embarassed to ask questions!

  3. Mike Coscia says:

    @HomeRemodelWorkshop What about Ramsets? Aren't they even faster to use?

  4. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @mikecoscia Sometimes its difficult to figure the correct load size to use and ,depending on concrete make-up,have a tendacy to split plates and blow-out concrete. I have had more consistent results with the split drives +++Bob

  5. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @militarysims I have always left air space between old rock walls and new wood wall framing. There is a possibility of creating leaks if you mess with old stone. The outside of building is particularly important to not disturb. The compacted earth is the best defense against leaks+++Bob

  6. gregvancom says:

    The biggest problem with these pins is going to be any vertical movement.. If there was an earthquake your bottom framing plate will move right through the pin. It might be better to use a framing anchor. Personal Preference I guess…

  7. tubestick00 says:

    @HomeRemodelWorkshop holy crap thats ridiculous. ive shot thousands of plates down and even thin inch wall strapping doesnt split with the ramset or hilti. this system is sooooooooooo slow.

  8. JB122576 says:

    do you need a permit to finish a basement?

  9. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @JB122576 The generic response, Yes. +++Bob If you are dealing with any framing structurally related, heating,plumbing,electric,insulation and basic fire clearance codes and fire stops to window egress if you are putting a bedroom. You would have to know an awful lot about everything,or have total trust in the person doing the work, to feel you don't need one.

  10. Jason Lewis says:

    Right on! Great demonstration!

  11. TwyMANiac says:

    I like how he tells us to wear ear protection while doing this then blows my friggin ears out in the video..

  12. Chris Nar says:

    One word: "TAPCON" and there isn't a need to predrill the hole, that SDS hammer drill with a 3/16 bit (depending on the size of your tapcon screws) will go through the 2×4 with ease.

  13. applewhiteroad says:

    good video!

  14. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @mikeissocool19 Thanks Mike, What's it like being so cool? Just kiddin Thanks for watching! Go to work tomorrow and teach them something LOL +++Bob

  15. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @mikeissocool19 Learning this trade is a lifetime of experiences, you take what you have learned and apply it to things you have never done before. Mistakes become fewer the longer you are in it..Hang in there and always be willing to learn new things, not just from your trade but from all the tradespeople you work with. Once you get a grasp of how the whole system works together you will become far more valuable +++Bob

  16. dbennett4 says:

    Why on earth would you put the wood directly onto the concrete? All that will do is draw any water/moisture that may get on the concrete up into the walls… mould!

  17. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @dbennett4 ?>?>? Please enlighten.+++Bob

  18. mcbridecreek says:

    Hey BOB You can speed up the process by drilling the hole in the treated floor plate with the 1/4 inch roto hammer bit saving one step. Drill in 3/4inch over depth and roget cleaning the debris away. Also why buy a split drive fastener when 2 -16d green vinyl sinkers are cheaper and you already have some in your tool bags? Great video.

  19. Phil Riddle says:

    Thanks a mill…I also heard u can drive 2 16 penyt sinkers at the same time for a solid anchor…

  20. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @MrCoolguy6273 Is that what he was confused on? I was expecting a way to build no floor touch walls, or some non-absorbing spacer, +++Bob

  21. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @usmc8542 It has been my experience that even if you find the proper powdered shot the plates sometimes tend to split or the nail does not penetrate and hold properly. That being said, using the proper eye and ear protection and if it works well for you it is definitely less expensive. +++Bob

  22. Chris Bonnema says:

    I just tried using a ramset w/ the highest strength shots available for the model I was using (HD2022 I believe) and it didn't drive the nails in far enough… so now I've got an un-anchored plate and holes in the concrete. I plan to use your method now bob, but my question is – do I need to worry about patching the holes under the plate now before drilling and anchoring w/ the split drives?

    Love your videos – thanks.

  23. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @TheSaxyjaz Unless the concrete blow-out was deep then no. Move the new anchor a few inches away and install.+++Bob

  24. D.S. C. says:

    Try a Senco air driven framing nailer with hardened nails. Bang Bang Bang you're done. Holds like an SOB in concrete. After you're done anchoring the pressure treated plate to the concrete, use it to build your walls. Makes the job almost fun.

  25. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @sunny71169 Sorry sunny, not buying this comment, have never heard of a air nailer with hardened nails designed to anchor wood to concrete. I do not believe that tool exist. Please prove me wrong +++Bob

  26. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @Omnimeister And a dull drill bit , alot of back-up stuff used on this video. lol hey it still worked . +++Bob

  27. DEXTER941 says:

    Excellent tips, thank you

  28. dadeo11 says:

    How thoroughly do you have to remove leftover mortar from tile removal before laying down your anchor wood?

  29. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @dadeo11 Knock down the high spots and go with it +++Bob

  30. rmcdaniel423 says:

    Do big-box home centers like Lowes or Home Depot carry that type of fastener? Or do I need to find an industrial fastener supplier, like many contractors probably use?

  31. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @rmcdaniel423 There is a similar type that looks like a fluted galvanized 16 penny nail that also works very well that they sell at my local Home Depot.+++Bob I believe the drilling size is 3/16 instead of 1/4

  32. jeff taylor says:

    very simple show of how it done.thanks.

  33. 2x7is14stupid says:

    Hey Bob
    How about adding a bit of vapor barrier under that wall plate
    Why use a nailing device considering you need a hammer drill, Why not use countersink concrete
    screws. That way if you need to remove the sill, it can be done without destroying the wood.
    Simply unscrew it. Depot and Lowes both sell Tap Cons

  34. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @2x7is14stupid I have no problem using Tap-cons as a way to attach bottom plate, they will work well. I am not a big fan of vapor barrier in below grade construction, seems to me you are trapping water that would otherwise "evaporate" if allowed to breathe. +++Bob

  35. exeller8007 says:

    think i`ll stick with 3"x10 screw and plug i have been using them for yrs and they are just as quick and good but a lot easier to remove!..

  36. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @exeller8007 And some people feel the same way about Tap-con screws, both ways are fine just showing an alternative. +++Bob

  37. Cessna Aviator says:

    I am about to add a wall snide my detach garage that is finished. Was wondering if this is a base plate and you add a wall on top of what you did here. Also I have 9 foot ceilings with sheet rock and was wondering what the stud lengths should be since I will be placing a complete wall on top of what you showed here?

  38. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @trailblazer2985 You could add top plate to ceiling then get 10 ft. studs and cut them individually to fit between plates. Most garage floors have slope to them to allow water to run out of garage or to a floor drain making a standard size stud not viable. +++Bob

  39. Bill Joel says:

    Buy a Ramset gun or rent one they aren't that expensive and it saves time…A LOT OF TIME. While he is still drilling a hole in the wood I put 4 nails in.

  40. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @gojoe36 Ok +++Bob

  41. Michael Puckett says:

    probably a stupid question…but what size is the concrete bit?

  42. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @MetalheadzVal For this particular pin it is 1/4 inch. I have used similar pins that required 3/16 bit +++Bob

  43. Christianprepper1 says:

    I have used tapcons, redheads, drive pins, remshot nails and cut nails in the past. I ordered some of these online and am setting a bunch of walls on concrete. They work great, a lot easier than redheads and they will not strip out and break like tapcons. And they will not loosen up like the remshot nails when bumped. Thanks for the channel with all these great tips.

  44. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @Christianprepper1 Well said and thanks for watching!+++Bob

  45. skygh says:

    Years ago I had an old carpenter show me a similar method. Do everything the same as shown drilling with a quarter inch masonry bit but instead of using that expensive anchor take two 16 penny box(must be 16d box not common) nails. Drive both nails into the hole together at the same time and good luck getting either the plate or nails out. I am sure these anchors are not cheap but I know what two 16d box nails cost. About zip. This will only work in a poured concrete floor not block!

  46. paulsjunkcars says:

    is that up to code? when i built my garage i was told by the inspector to use only anchor bolts.
    i also added a three inch metal washer to each anchor bolt.

  47. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    @paulsjunkcars Read the name of the video and that should answer your question+++Bob

  48. Brian Mcentee says:

    Good stuff Bob.

  49. Carole S says:

    great video

  50. Dauzq De says:

    Superb video. Good attitude. Easily explained.

  51. Mr86RR says:

    All you video clips are excellent! Thank you

  52. Yaro Priel says:

    Thanks for the great video. Now I know how to anchor my base plate to my basement floor.

  53. caddy king says:

    This felt like woodshop. well taught

  54. Shawn Ward says:

    Wow……thanks for this EXCELLENT tip!

  55. valenvid says:

    Good stuff, Bob.. however I have learned that when dealing with basement applications, you have to worry about all sorts of moisture issues. One being wood over concrete. So what is the solution? My case is, I have a floor to remove while walls remain. I'd have about 3" space from concrete to wall. So do I use a vapor barrier? if so, how to apply, can I screw wood over it? and whats first barrier or 2×4? Also, it looks rotted under there now, so can I use pressure treated wood? I need help man.

  56. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    I am a bit confused about your situation. Are you walls framed to the concrete floors and the the wood floors are built between them? or is your wood floor framed and then the walls were built on top of them? Also why are you removing the wood floors, rot. termites. create more headroom in basement? Are the floors going back in?

  57. valenvid says:

    Yes, its an existing room where the subfloor has just broken through. Many weak spots. I believe it was a poorly constructed situation in addition to floods. So I need to try and replace the floor while the walls remain (I know, it sounds crazy). Bc the walls were just painted. So Im going to try and replace the bottom plates etc. It looks like the people who sold the house just put strips of wood underneath the sub. I think it looks that bad because of the major flood they had.

  58. valenvid says:

    …Pt2 So I intend to replace the whole floor, starting with the concrete and work my way up to the bottom of the wall (new treated bottom plate).

  59. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    Major flood ,not good, hope that issue has been handled. Make sure any wood that touches any concrete is treated, also any vapor barrier that traps moisture directly against the concrete is usually a bad idea. mold growth and so-forth.

  60. Nemesio Carvajal says:

    NIce vid thanks a lot!

  61. Seeker Smith says:

    Bob Schmidt, you are the king of easy to follow and helpful videos. Best construction tips on youtube. Thanks buddy.

  62. Rlnthndr says:

    to break off a bolt wouldn't it be easier to just use a grinder and cut it off?

  63. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    If you have a grinder and extension cord in and available the yes definitely ! +++Bob

  64. Jb Pn says:

    how do you correct a floor that is not level? or do you keep it flush and adjust stud lenght?

  65. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    Generally speaking you keep flush and adjust stud length, however if floor is dramatically out of level some floor leveling may be required if its bad enough to justify and that is a judgement call on your part. +++Bob

  66. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    Lol, It was a crappy bit but as an excuse the bits and drill I use on a daily basis were on a job and I decided to make the video that day with what I had available as far as drills and bits. Hope it did not take too much away from the spirit of the video. +++Bob

  67. IndianaNature says:

    Wouldn't it be easier to build the wall first then stand it up instead of toenailing in your studs?

  68. Borys says:

    Thanks for a great video, Bob. I have a question: how close can you use these to the edge of a 5 inch slab? (3000 psi concrete)

  69. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    I generally leave 5-6 inches away and have "No problem mon" +++Bob

  70. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    The only difference I have with your system is the add an 1/8 th part. The floor system is already supported by the existing structure. If you lift and put upward pressure on the floor above, depending on floor coverings, you can crack tiles, lift existing walls causing cracks and improper door closings, cause floor squeeks that did not happen before. When measuring my studs to fit between top and bottom plate I make my measurements slightly light.

  71. Henry Harya says:

    You're a life saver!

  72. Belly Button says:

    Greetings from Ireland. I assume its the same procedure if you want to put those battons ona concrete wall to use as supports for shelving?

  73. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    They will but my personal preference is to make back support legs and anchor on the ceiling in an unfinished area +++Bob

  74. DJdeadlyDALEK says:

    Thanks – I'm building a sandbox for the kids and I'm attaching it to our concrete patio in the back. Dug out all the dirt around the concrete and din't know how to go about attaching the wood nicely to the concrete. Much obliged!

  75. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    Nothing like a nice sandbox, now how to keep the neighbors cats out of it! +_++Bob

  76. Gyva02 says:

    Nice video 🙂 guess you could counter sink a washer around that split drive for even more holding power (thinking of hurricane areas)

  77. cloverdale87 says:

    ANYTHING you install on a basement slab must be insulated by a barrier.
    Two dissimilar materials will corrode or rot. CEMENT is a sponge for water.
    At the lumber yard you buy rolls on 2"x4" poly.
    All PT wood is #2 pine that has a bug killing chem forced into it.
    That's it. Drill holes in stud first. If the bit hits the cement ,its done. Polly why yours is shot.
    Why wood? about 10 times the weight of metal studs. Plus mess.
    Metal=snips and stud crimp tool.
    Floor out of level=shim the head

  78. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    Not where I live. Is this a code or your personal opinion? Please tell me where I can see the code Thanks+++Bob

  79. CnoSez says:

    great tip man, thanks.

  80. lvsund says:

    Bob, I have just rented warehouse space. I need to build a few temporary walls and am not allowed to drill into the concrete floor. However, I can attach to the wall which is a standard stud wall. Do you know of a way to build a wall without permanently attaching a plate to the concrete floor?

  81. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    Are you planning on putting anything on wall?
    Wall cabs, shelving, or is it just a partition?

  82. lvsund says:

    Mainly just a partition, I may use some pegboard on one side to hang some wrenches and other small hand tools. These walls are just to break up the space to but stuff behind and out of site in my new woodshop.

  83. HomeRemodelWorkshop says:

    If its against your lease to drill Tap-Cons into floor (they are removeable) I would put some silicone under it. We use it to keep granite countertops from sliding around and should work, Good luck +++Bob

  84. lvsund says:

    Thanks Bob,
    I used Tap Con Screws. I appreciate your responses.

  85. nihilisticdreamer says:

    excellent, straight forward demo of what looks like a really useful product. think I'll skip the screws and go with these anchors instead. again, thanks.

  86. christofurg says:

    Can these be used for sill plates for framed walls for garage on concrete slab on grade?

  87. Arsinekk says:

    Where do you get these things? They dont seem to be at Lowes or Home Depot. And all the ones I see online are like $30 or more for a box of 100. I dont need 100.

  88. Arsinekk says:

    Also, what diameter are you using?

  89. kingspine says:

    Thanks Bob. I got to install a small wall in my warehouse for target practice with my Compound Bow. Your the man…. Keep up the good work.

  90. mhaddadi says:

    Nice, thank you

  91. Nor Ahmad says:

    thank you

  92. hippo potamus says:

    Bob great video.  I was planing on building some pour in place concrete walls.  Is this method good to use on the base plate of the forms? Ie base plate to hold bottom of form nailed into the footing or do you recommend a different method to hold the bottom of the forms?  Im just concerned over the removal work after I remove the forms. Thanks

  93. Jack M says:

    Cheers for the vid it was very helpful

  94. Joe V says:

    that's a great way to fasten a wall, but a hilti gun is much faster, cheaper, and does the job of holding a wall in place.  I have finished dozens of basements, and a hilti is all I have ever used- no problems.

  95. EDGARDO BURGOS says:

      you're the man !  Thanks,  MR.G

  96. T -DUB says:

    Hello what's the best way to build 2 exterior walls in existing concrete garage door to convert it into a living space. I live In FL, does the bottom half need to be in concrete or should I use treated woods?

  97. chuckhpnwx says:

    You said one every two feet. If you're doing a very short, non load bearing wall (say 18 inches), should you just put one in, or is it better to add a second one?

  98. YusifRock says:

    ramset gun would make this easier…

  99. cpufukr says:

    OUT STAND ING!!!!!

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