Washer Repair- Replacing the Clutch Assembly (Whirlpool Part # 285785)
Washer Repair- Replacing the Clutch Assembly (Whirlpool Part # 285785)

Steve: Hi, itís Steve from PartSelect. Today,
weíre going to show you how to change the clutch assembly on your direct dry washer.
Itís a pretty easy job. Donít need too many tools. All we need, a half inch 7/16th socket
with an extension and a ratchet, probably we could use a pair of channel lock pliers,
a Philips screwdriver, medium size flat blade, and a small flat blade and a º inch nut driver.
Let me show you how itís done. Now the easiest way to do this repair is to
pull the washer out of the way from its position, and lay it on its back to remove the transmission
to get to the clutch. So weíll start with disconnecting the power, pull the fill hoses
off and the drain hose, so that we have the opportunity to pull the washer away from its
position. Next weíll start with taking the agitator
out, so weíll grasp the top, pull that off. Next weíll pull the cover off the top of
the bolt, itís just friction fit, so pull that out. Then weíll remove the 7/16th bolt
that hold the agitator to the shaft. Probably have to hold the agitator with one hand with
that bolt started, just reach into the tub, grasp the agitator and pull it straight upfront,
we can remove that. Now once weíve remove the agitator, we take
this clip off of the agitator shaft and the plastic base piece as well, set those aside,
because we will need to reinstall them. Next we need to remove the cabinet to do so, we
need to remove two Philips screws that secure the console to the maintop. Now this model
has them on the back, some you will find, the Philips screw right at the front. Now at this point weíll push the console
forward, just give it a little pump and then tilt it backwards, just rotate it right over
the back, and with the flat blade screwdriver, we will depress these two clips, sliding down
into the front portion, push down and then forward, and then weíll disconnect the harness
to the lid switch connected right at the top, simply unlock the tap, and disconnect that.
Remove those retaining clips, now weíre ready to remove the cabinet. Now to remove the cabinet weíre simply going
to lift up at the back and tilt it toward us, and then we can disengage the hooks at
the front, we can set the whole cabinet aside. Now to get out the clutch assembly, it is
located in behind the pump and motor assembly attached to the transmission. So to get to
that weíll need to remove the pump with these two clips and weíll need to remove the motor. The easiest way to do that is to lay the washer
on its back. So we want to make sure we have towel handy, just in case there is some water
left in the drain hose. And if you can find an assistant to help you lower the washer
down, it would be a whole lot easier. Now before we tilt this back, we should roll the
console forward, and then with one hand supporting the back simply tilt the whole washer back,
lay it gently on the floor, and that will give us exposure to the pump. Just take the flat screwdriver put it underneath
that clip right upwards, a quarter turn and they will slide out of their slot, the same
with the remaining one. Now we can simply lift the pump off of the motor shaft and tuck
it aside, that give us exposure to two º inch hex head screws that hold the retaining
clips for the pump in place, and then also exposes the wire harness. Disconnect the wire harness from the motor;
remove the two º inch hex head screws that came with the flat blade, just pry that clip
out of the way. Now the take the clip out of the slot in the motor base, and we can simply lift the motor off of the transmission.
The coupler between the motor and the transmission may stay with the motor or it may stay with
the transmission, it doesnít really matter, now we can set that aside. Now with the motor out of the way, weíre
ready to pull the transmission, just three half inch bolts, we need to pull off of there.
And we also want to disconnect the wire harness from the retaining clip here, use the flat
blade screwdriver just dislodge that clip, pulled the harness out of the way. And now
with all three bolts removed weíll simply pull straight out, now we have access to our
clutch assembly. Now that we have the transmission and clutch
assembly out, we can set about to change that clutch. First of all weíll remove the thrust
washer, just slide it off the shaft, and with the flat blade screwdriver weíll remove this
big E-clip, gently pry it off. Next we need to remove the retaining spring, again we will
use a slightly smaller flat blade but just glean under the edge of it, pry it up gently,
now we can slide the clutch right off the shaft. Now we will take note the color of the spring
in your clutch assembly and the kit that you get will have one or two extra springs with
it, make sure you match up the proper color, this one uses a blue one, and it comes preinstalled
with the blue one on it, so weíre ready to reinstall this. Next weíll take the anti-rattle clip, this
little nylon piece, snap that into the back, slide the assembly down, and rotate it till
the notches line up, put in our new retaining spring with the hooked end into the hole in
the clutch body, and then with a flat blade weíll pry that spring underneath the flange,
make sure it snapped fully into place. Next weíre going to replace our E-ring and
this is best done with a pair of channel lock pliers. So line it up with the slots on the
shaft, push it forward, if itís really tight just take the channel locks and squeeze it
into place. Reinstall the thrust washer, now before we
reinstall the transmission assembly, we need to replace this brake can driver with one
that is supplied with the kit, its held in place with a little E-ring, so with the tiny
flat blade screwdriver between the shaft and the E-ring, pry it off enough that we can
a bigger screw driver in there, and remove that E-clip, replace it with our new one. There are a couple of locator pins there that
need to line up with the holes on that brake cam, we can
reinstall that clip. A large pair of channel
locks is probably the best tool to put that clip back on. So we line it up with the grip
on the basket shaft, get this in, and now weíre ready to reinstall the transmission. Now with the new clutch assembly installed,
weíre ready to put the transmission back in, so line up the shaft with the basket tube,
carefully slide it all the way forward, weíre going to reinstall the three half inch bolts.
These bolts donít need to be torqued ked extra tight, just make sure that wouldnít
snug. I am going to
reroute the wire harness to the motor through the retaining clip, just snap it in place. Now weíre ready to reinstall the motor on
the pump. Now I find the easiest way to put that motor back in is to take the rubber drive
coupling and set it on to the portion that is attached to the transmission, line it up,
to make it a little easier, make sure all four rubber motor mounts are in place. And
we have to wiggle it a little bit to line up that coupling. Next weíll reconnect the motor harness, make
sure it locks into position. Now weíre ready to put the mounting straps back in, each of
them in the slotted hole, in the base, and pry them into their position. It is not necessary
to replace these two º inch hex head screws, but basically they are just for shipping purposes,
weíll put them back in. Now weíre ready to reinstall the pump, the
flat side of shaft on the motor, so we need to make sure that that will engage the pump
properly, that all four legs in the pump sit firmly on the motor. Next weíll replace the
mounting straps for the pump, make sure we didnít loosen any hoses. And weíre ready
stand the washer up. Now that we have the transmission and the
motor and the pump all reinstalled, weíre ready to stand the washer back up. We can
tilt the console back again, and weíre ready to put the cabinet on. Now to reinstall the
cabinet we need to locate two raised tabs on each side of the washer with the corresponding
slots in the base frame of the cabinet. Now weíll tuck the front edge of the cabinet
under this cross rail. We checked to make sure itís engaged on both
sides. Now that we have our cabinet lined up weíre just going to briefly tilt it back,
so that we can push the water inlet underneath the cabinet, pull the whole cabinet just slightly
up till we get our back in place. And again make sure that both sides of the cabinet are
locked into the base frame. Now we can reconnect our lid switch connector,
make sure it locks into place. Weíre ready to reinstall the clips to the back; we slide
them into the back at first, push the back forward, and depress the clips into the top,
now roll the console back into position, make sure the tabs on the either side line up into
the slides bump backwards, and reinstall the two Philips screws in the back. Be careful
not to over tighten these screws, they are just go to a plastic insert. Now weíre ready to reinstall the agitator.
Before we reinstall the agitator, we do need to put the index tab back into place, make
sure it drops into the slot, and then retaining clamp it sits on top of it, and then weíre
ready for the agitator. Line it up, press it down over the spline shaft, and weíll
tighten that 7/16th bolt, but we have to grasp the base of the agitator hold it while you
tighten that bolt. Next we need to replace the cap and gasket,
now if the gasket didnít come out with a cap, itís still stuck down inside here, so
we need fish that out, put your softener dispenser back in the agitator, now weíre ready to
reconnect the hoses, drain hose, two fill hoses, and connect it to the power, and your
job is complete. That just how easy it is to change the clutch
in your direct drive washer. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair.

100 thoughts on “Washer Repair- Replacing the Clutch Assembly (Whirlpool Part # 285785)”

  1. Troy Pilcher says:

    My fiance says sometimes when it is suppose to spin it doesn't and makes a high whiny sound. she opens the lid and closes it and it starts working normal. is this a clutch issue?

  2. unleashed rider says:

    what kind of washer if its like this one its your skid plate is out of adjustment.

  3. unleashed rider says:

    skid plate is out of adjustment your transmission is shot and or clutch pads are worn,or clutch pads need to be lightly sanded with emery cloth and and cluth pad spring needs to be stretched

  4. DCR says:

    Very comprehensive video, sir, and well done. My washer tub and agitator function normally, but I'm guessing the clutch is the source of initially loud, tapering-off screeching that occurs as the spin cycle spools up. Before I pull this thing apart, what do you think?

  5. dc_animal says:

    Thanks for the great video! My problem is, if left unattended my washer drains but fails to spin. However, if I hear it draining the water and then raise and relower the lid, I hear the drive engage and the spin cycle will actually start. To me, it sounds like some sort of clutch issue. For $20, it can't hurt to replace it on my 15 yr old washer. Thanks again!

  6. John Russ says:

    great video !! my washer goes out of balance when spin cycle starts, however the tub seems to be in balance but the motor is moving around. Any sggestions?

  7. musicman64forever says:

    Steve i replaced the clutch assembly and before i did , all i heard was noise. it would not spin. i installed a new one. and no noise and still wont spin. i am sure i followed it to the t. is there anything else that would prevent the washer from spinning? its a whirlpool. model numberLXR7244JQ1 part installed was PS334641. I need some help.

  8. Ken Christ says:

    I have the exact same issue as dcanimaltube above– raising/lowering the lid causes the spin cycle to engage- otherwise it continues the cycle without spinning, though the water is dispensed correctly (resulting in wet clothes). Is that definitely a clutch issue?

  9. Ka Mo'i says:

    The motor coupler is probably cracked. This is the piece between the motor and the transmission.

  10. 246cjoe says:

    I have a Maytag washer. When it got to the spin cycle it just quite and left water in the tub. When I tried to recycle the start button to spin it would only move the tub about an inch and a half and stop. It seems to want to start but it quits. What do you suggest sir?

  11. Jennifer Adams says:

    I guess everything is "a pretty easy job." lol

  12. PartSelect says:

    It can be! ūüôā

  13. Karl Vinnicombe says:

    Hi, my washing machine spins 1 way and makes a clicking sound? what's the likely cause ? thanks Karl

  14. PartSelect says:

    Hi Karl,

    Can you provide your model number? Is it working properly other than the clicking noise, or is it presenting other symptoms as well?

    Thanks a lot!

  15. Karl Vinnicombe says:

    Its a Simpson eziset750, the tub turns clockwise so much then locks, and if I turn it anti clockwise it starts clicking…. while its washing, it agitates only in clockwise direction. If I hold the agitator and spin the tub it moves so far in each direction before locking(and no clicking). thanks for the quick response. Karl

  16. Karl Vinnicombe says:

    ok, I was wrong. It is agitating both ways – unless it is now that I physically moved the around the tub and agitator…. but still clicks on the anti clockwise while washing…I'll upload a vid and post you the link. Cheers Karl

  17. Karl Vinnicombe says:

    SIMPSON EZITOP750 washing machine clicking sound – search for that on youtube…it wont let me post a web address

  18. DSC800 says:

    The best "how-to" I've used on YouTube.  I could have done it without it, but would have taken me 4 times longer.  Thanks!

  19. Magdalena Gomez says:

    Is this washer has a belt???? jajaja I am going to do myself and I think its only the belt… but I don't see one. Where is the belt????

  20. Magdalena Gomez says:

    The agitater is not working. Mod #3955358

  21. Magdalena Gomez says:

    Sorry this is the model # LSQ9544KQO

  22. MrArbyman1 says:


  23. Magdalena Gomez says:

    Thanks a lot I'm going to try my best

  24. Michael Plourde says:

    I just watched your clutch replacement video.  Very informative, but it does not tell me how to get the agitator cap off.  My agitator doesn't look like yours.  My model number is:  LXR7244JQ1.  Is there a catch or a lip or do I turn it in a specific direction, or do I push down and turn the cap at the same time?  I don't want to damage anything that isn't already broke.  If I could get past this first step, I can order my repair parts from you and follow the video.

  25. DREAVINCE says:

    Terrific Video Steve !   Thanks for the  help.  You make it easy  .  .  .

  26. Waylon Fan says:

    excellent video, thank you. It was a lot of help.

  27. ATLOffroad says:

    I used this video about a year ago to replace the clutch in my washer.  The agitator worked and spun perfectly afterward.  Unfortunately, my washer is once again not spinning.  Is it common to replace the clutch after one year?  Or is there something else that might be wrong with my washer.  Thanks for the great video.

  28. Kntryhart says:

    Excellent videos.  All went as shown until I tried to remove transmission. As I  slide out agitator shaft there is a mechanical interference (clunk) that prevents it from being removed. This interference happens at about 2-inches.  All seems free and clear, but the shaft will not slide out.  Any thoughts?  Model LA9500XTN1 S/N: CB0503088.  Thank you!

  29. piddler51 says:

    I noticed you did not address the clutch and brake springs.  What is the best positions for these springs to be in?

  30. 3blowfish says:

    I am having  a problem with my Whilpool washer mod. LSR100HQ0. It does not spin. So far I have replaced the motor coupler. I have also replaced the drive basket. It still wont work. I am out of ideas. I dont know how to test the motor, or transmission. What should i do next ?

  31. Kevin Lanahan says:

    Thank you for helping me do this repair. The hardest part was just finding the part locally!

  32. s wilson says:

    I followed the instructions, but when I slide the transmission shaft back into the hole, it goes all the way in except the last half inch.  The bolt holes on the transmission are lined up, but are half and inch from being in contact with the screw holes on the bottom of the machine.  If I put a bolt in the holes, it won't tighten because the trans. is not all the way in.  What happened?  I tried removing the clutch assembly then replacing transmission, same thing, it stops short half an inch.  So it isn't the clucth stopping it.  the shaft on top of the transmission contacts the bearing at the bottom of the machine.

  33. Brenda Clamors says:

    Would you mind addressing an issue with a Kenmore washer spinning but makes a loud knocking noise during the spin cycle.  Stops when you open the lid.  From everything we check out could it be the clutch?  Thank you for your time.

  34. Topsx4 says:

    I Love your videos Will You do a U Joint replacement on a Whirlpool Calypso?

  35. goodcyrus says:

    Great video! Thanks a million! But how do we know if tge problem is the motor, coupler or the clutch assembly? I hear the motor but nothing moves including the coupler. Can help it move by hand a little as if something is stuck or motor has no torque.

  36. kevin decker says:

    I could not get the transmission out.  It would not slide out easily as shown on this video. I tapped the shaft that connects to the agitator which moved the transmission assembly about an inch then stopped. I assume the entire shaft comes out. Do I need to remove the spanner bolt as well? I have a Maytag mtw5840wt0. All components are exactly as the video.

  37. MrObeast44 says:

    Great video! I just did this repair and it was a cakewalk. I just disconnected the pump and left the motor attached to the gearbox. It slid out easily and wasn't too heavy all as one unit. Doing it this way allowed me to leave the cover and everything on, other than the agitator of course.

  38. robert o'bryan says:

    I just finished replacing the clutch on my washing machine.  Great video!  It helped me do the job easily.  One question I have is when I lifted the washer off its back and set it upright, there was the sound of a small metal object hitting tile.  Lifting it back up I found a small gold color piece that looks very much like a common head nail, about 1.5 inches long, with a hold through the pointed tip that looks like something a cotter pin or retaining clip of some sort would go through to keep it in place.  I set the washer on its back and looked all through it, but nothing seemed out of place.  Any idea what this "nail" is for?  Thanks again for a really great video!!

  39. Pep Whirley says:

    Very helpful, thank you!

  40. ali Al hagoy says:

    how  I know clutch need replace ?

    thank you

  41. rquest2012 says:

    I'm sorry but approximately 90 percent of the work you performed was unnecessary. You don't need to remove the surrounding case or disassemble the motor. You can simply lay the washer on it's back, remove the pump and slide the transmission out with the motor. Then you don't need to remove the clutch plate, just squeeze the spring together and remove the clutch.

  42. boatops says:

    My daughters whirlpool washer goes into spin cycle, seems to spins fast but clothes are wetter then they should be. Nothing is clogging the drain. Is it still a clutch problem?? Thanks

  43. Maple_Dude says:

    The black ring (the ~6" diameter black metal half that interfaces with the clutch) the break cam drive goes into, mine feels seized…. Can this be replaced, should it be feeling hard to turn?

  44. Jai Prakash says:

    I have a Kenmore 110 series washer. I am not able to remove the drive and transmission out even though the nuts and agitator are removed. I don't see any retainer clips after removing the agitator either. The shaft seems to be stuck.

  45. Shirley Hoffman says:

    I am trying to replace clutch from Kenmore, Series 70, Model 110.20702991
    I followed video and removed agitator, clip and base piece. Flip washer over. Removed pump, wiring harness from motor. Removed motor from transmission. Removed 3 bolts but now my transmission shaft won't pull out easily. Am I missing something?

  46. Gary Taylor says:

    Stuck on the bolt retaining the agitator. My washer has a carbon steel bolt which rusted and ruined the head. The socket would not grab. Trying to extract the bolt. May have to destroy the agitator.

  47. Everardo Camacho says:

    hi steve my washer is energy star brand , and leave all clothes soak dripping water, and I believe is spinning ? because there is no water in the tub? please help me, thank u and happy new year

  48. MrVictor545 says:

    Not nearly enough F-Bombs to take apart a washer. Thanks!

  49. Everardo Camacho says:

    I don't know because I'm too far away , it was over the phone consultation,

  50. Everardo Camacho says:

    but I have a freezer general electric model #fp21sxarwh what is does is frost in every rack , I have to unplugged to get rid of the frost,because the ice covers the food, can u please help me what wrong, thank u

  51. Eirinn Patterson says:

    Thanks for the detailed repair. It was perfect for me. I originally fixed the coupler thinking that was the problem (that was fun…Not). The machine still didn't work (spin cycle). I saw your video, ordered the clutch assembly for 15 bucks, followed your steps and fixed the darn thing. Works like a charm….Thanks…Oh by the way it was a great time to see just how nasty it can be inside…icky….did a lot of cleaning…

  52. melodymaker says:

    Great job explaining!   Thanks

  53. Brad Bales says:

    Great video – thank you for the detailed walk-through, as well as the excellent video production. This is definitely among the top 1% of the DIY videos I've reviewed for appliance repair.

  54. Ron Lunk says:

    I have a GE washer that spins but will not agitate. I just replaced agitator and coupler and that did not fix it. What eals could I check…Thanks

  55. Lavadoras y Secadoras Mazatlan says:

    Fantastic Video Steve. Thank you!

  56. Dezzolution says:

    Thanks for the great video, helped me fix my washer!!

  57. Joel Reyes says:

    Great video.

  58. Kris Kubis says:

    Thank you so much for posting this Steve! I replaced my clutch and now my machine drains properly!

  59. Nickthegamer808 says:

    how do i no my clutch is bad

  60. euanuglowisdead says:

    it worked! thank you!

  61. 2001jamiewolf says:

    i have a roper washing machine model# RTW4440VQ2 that fills, spins and drains but will not agitate but i can hear the motor running and when it spins it doesn't sound very good. i have rebuilt the transmission already but somethings not right. any ideas?

  62. Jose Contreras says:

    excelente video,muy bien explicado paso a paso,lo felicito profesor.saludos desde Caracas,Venezuela.

  63. Bill P says:

    I have a roper top load washer the spinning has slowly stopping working over the past year. now its not spinning at all. i replaced the small $2 plastic coupler and its still not spinning. any help here?

  64. Robert Forss says:

    Do you find it absolutely necessary to remove the cabinet? I have done couplers without removing it and didn't find it too bad. Going to replace a clutch on a Whirlpool washer tomorrow and thinking I can probably do it without removing the cabinet.

  65. George W says:


  66. BenBen153 says:

    Canadian much?

  67. Michael Herr says:

    Thank you for the tutorial.

  68. Jordyn McIntosh says:

    How to program a voyager edge

  69. gunther fischer says:

    is it neccesary to remove the box and motor because on our if we tilt it we get access to the clutch asswmbly

  70. William Olson says:

    Advice needed Рreplaced the coupling and the clutch and it worked for 2 loads then quit spinning. Took it apart then put it together and the agitator spins(no clothes in it) but not the tub. Any advice??

  71. marcel fortin says:

    I wish you could have shown in greater detail the alignment of the springs prior to re-installing the gearbox….

  72. Tim Robnett says:

    Great video step by step. Fixed my problem and I've never worked on a washer before. I appreciate the help.

  73. Todd Lindley says:

    Sir, you are a lifesaver! Thx so much for taking the time to post this in a step by step fashion for the 'unhandy' among usūüĎĆūü§ď

  74. LAC TRAN says:

    please help me , why I can not push in on the way to tight the 3 screws

  75. DoItMyself Journey says:

    I just can't remove the transmission I have been heaving like crazy. It supposed to be easy, slide out. What did i do wrong? ūüė≠

  76. Ameli Brass says:

    Awesome video! Made it very easy to accomplish!

  77. Mnop Xangelus says:


  78. Mnop Xangelus says:

    The Taco Bell guy did the same video tutorial but didn't need to strip it down like that.

  79. Isaac Wesley says:

    great video but at 13:00 you can see it real good at bottom left on the stand what is the plastic tube with what looks like pins in it what is that and what the for any help very much appreciated

  80. LibraLovesFaVs says:

    Never thought I'd ever repair my own washing machine, but I did, thanks to your teachings I did it! Yay! lol :o)

  81. Labigjwalk says:

    MY older whirlpool drains but wont spin only on full loads, I can sometimes go back to rinse after removing a few towels and it will work fine. Does this also sound like clutch,, washing 3 towels at a time is apain, appreciate any help!

  82. Horacio del Bosque says:

    thanksūüĖíūüĎĆgot it

  83. Francisco Rafael says:


  84. Bradwick1 says:

    16:33 Most aggravating part of the job. Those tabs can get bent down. The jump cut was probably due to the swearing.

  85. Joseph Perrone says:

    steve great tutorial! is it possible to mention the symptoms of the problem to your tutorials?

  86. Kathleen Patty says:

    Thank you!! My husband and I were able to fix my Whirlpool washer when it wasn't spinning but was agitating. Your step by step tutorial was soo easy to follow. Have never worked on big appliances before but will check out this site if we need any other fixes.

  87. Burton Holsteinsr. says:

    Very well made repair video.

  88. Don Crews says:

    my Whirlpool washer lets a little water in and then it starts to agitate it doesn't put in enough water.help!!

  89. M C says:

    My direct-drive Kenmore 500 produces a loud "bang" sound every time a spin cycle begins. I am fairly certain the noise is produced by the spring portion of the clutch "slamming" into the brake cam, to release the brakes and allow the tub to spin…Is the loud "bang" normal?

    Other than that, the tub spins normally and rapidly and there seems to be no damage done to the brake cam or other components of the basket drive.

  90. Steven Schnelz says:

    Why did he take the housing off? That was totally unnecessary and a waste of time. Just pull the agitator, put it on its back and take out the motor and transmission as one unit. You only need to detach the motor (which is easier after its out) if you are replacing the motor coupling.

  91. Marco Maeda says:

    Excellent Video

  92. Pat McCann says:

    Excellent video! I'm trying this tomorrow.

  93. Hector Huyo says:

    Steve you make it look very easy and it is if we follow your instructions . Great video! Great teacher.

  94. venkatesh srinivasa says:

    Full 650h tub removing how show me the video

  95. ks33182 says:

    Great instructions, though I didn't have to take the cabinet off… But this still helped me fix my washer, thanks!

  96. Aaron Cargile says:

    Great demonstration my good man!

  97. 69 Indian says:

    Excellent step by step instructions. Though I'm not sure why it was necessary to remove the cabinet. I think easier just to turn the washer over.

  98. John Welty says:

    Great video with easy explanation. Spin cycle works perfect, however, as the spin cycle starts there is a nose that lasts for about 10 seconds. Sounds like something rattling in the pump but checked and cleaned pump. Tranny?

  99. Cain tuckee64 says:

    I found a new clutch kit at one place for $25.00, another wanted $250.00 HOLY CRAP! Be careful, shop around!

  100. van cass says:

    help‚ÄĒi‚Äôve attempted to re install the cabinet and have had no success. i see the tabs where the back of the cabinet locks, but i cannot attach the cabinet to the frame

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