Washer Repair- Replacing the Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit (Whirlpool # 6-2095720)


Steve: Hi, it’s Steve from PartSelect. Today,
we’re going to show you how to change the mounting stem tub seal kit on your washer.
It’s a pretty easy job, but you are going to need a few tools. We need a ¼ inch nut
driver, probably a Philips screw driver, putty knife may be, we will need a sizable hammer,
a 3/8th ratchet with an extension, a 1/8th Allen wrench, #20 torx bit, and a specialty
wrench. Let me show you how it’s done. Now the first step in this repair will be
to disconnect the power, simply pull the plug and we’re ready to begin. And to begin this
repair we’re going to need two lift the main top up and to do that we need to first
of all remove the front panel. Now depending on the age of the machine you may have two
pozi drive screws located on either side, which we can remove with a Philips screwdriver,
or in later models, all we’ll need is putty knife. There are only two retaining clips on the
bottom of the front panel that hold it in place. So we’ll insert the putty knife between
the cabinet and the front panel, pop that panel forward, do that on both sides. And
we’ll tilt the front panel out on the bottom, and hinge at the top and it will drop down
exposing the two spring clips that hold it in place. Next we’re going to remove two 3/8th bolts
one on each corner that hold the maintop to the cabinet. Next we’re going to raise our
maintop, we want to make sure that your washer is pulled away from the wall about a foot,
give room for the console to tilt back, getting on the lid we will lift the maintop, and then
you can lower the lid. This design to stay in place on its own, just
be careful on to pump it and get rocking and come back in hit you on the head. Now the
two basic styles of this washer one it has a plastic tub cover, which is simply held
in place series of clips we’ll just need the lift those off. Older version had a metal top with a band
securing it to the main tub, there will be screw clamps on either side, simply need to
loosen one of those off, and rear to be a 5/16th hex head or a straight blade. If you
have that version just loosen one of those clamps enough that you can lifted off of the
water tub and remove the tub cover, set our tub cover aside. Next we’re going to remove the agitator
on newer versions it will be a quarter inch hex head screw located down on a base of the
barrel of the agitator, we don’t need to remove that screw completely, just turn out
three or four turns, and then with your hands grasp the edge lodge there and just lift upwards
on. In older versions have did not have that set
screw in the side it simply a friction fit and you will grasp the bottom of the agitator
and pull it straight up, and hopefully it will come out easy, if it doesn’t you will
need an agitator puller to remove it. Next we’re going to remove the retaining
nut, using our special spanner wrench, in your left hand thread, so we’re going to
try to turn clockwise to loosing it. Take our heavy hammer be careful the inside of
this tub is portion, we don’t want to touch that with our hammer, just best have the short
hand of heavy hammer, once you break that nut free
simply on thread it all the way and remove
it. Next we’ll remove the cap it sits over top
of the base of the inner tub, and now we can lift the inner tub out. Rock around so that
it is free and then lift straight out. That exposes our mounting stem, it’s held in
place with the single set screw and it may be either 1/8th Allen wrench or number 20
torx, so just check to see which one it is, and remove that set screw. And we’ll take our spanner wrench again
set that down over the top of the mounting stem, again it’s a left hand thread, so
we turn it clockwise to loosing it, lift that completely off the agitator shaft. Next we
have our seal, we’ll just twist that back and forth until it release itself firmly over
tub. Before reinstall the replacement parts we want to clean that surface around the older
tub where the seal will fit. We’ll take our new seal and just read the
inside lip of that rubber seal, where it made to the older tub and it twist into place,
make sure seats all the way to the bottom of the older tub, you take caution on the
top portion of it, because there is carbon faced ring there, that is brittle, we don’t
want to chip out, we certainly don’t want to squeeze on or it will break it. Make sure
it centered properly and it should push and down easily, it is spring loaded. Make sure
that doesn’t catch on anything, it does reposition. Now we’re ready to install the mounting
stem, simply slide that down over the agitator shaft, tighten it, we’re going to turn it
counter clockwise, with our spanner wrench we’ll tighten it on there, we do have to
beat that thing on really hard as long sit on there snug and we’ll put the set screw
in, set screw has a point on it that will drive into this side of the transmission housing
and hold it in place. Now in older model units the transmission
will have a couple of screws cut down side of that center portion, we want to make sure
that the set screw does not go into one of those screws. When it tighten up it should
be probably 16th of an inch of lid set screw still showing, so if there isn’t, take it
back out, and either tighten the mounting stem a little tighter or release it a little
bit, we want to make sure that set screw is not go into that cut of screw. Now we’re ready to put the inner tub back
in, just rock it around to the centers itself, and install the cover
and our tub nut, again that’s a left hand
thread, so it’s counter clockwise to tighten it, and with our spanner wrench tighten this
up pretty. And the agitator is plain, so it will fit on numerous positions. So it sits
firmly to the bottom, with the ¼ inch nut driver to tighten up that set screw again. Now we’re ready to replace the tub cover.
We want to make sure that we have it lined up properly. This portion should be at the
rear to engage the lid switch. We’re ready to put our maintop
down, this will move around a little bit, so we put a line the bolts up before we tighten
any of them. Make sure these two bolts are tight. Now we’re ready for the front panel. Engage
two spring clips on the top, center it up, keep at a constant pressure upwards on the
front panel to engage it, and then push it back into place. And our repair is complete.
That just how easy it is to change the mounting stem tub seal kit on your washer. Thanks for
watching, and good luck with your repair.

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