Washing Machine Repair – Replacing the Snubber Ring (Whirlpool Part # 21002026)
Washing Machine Repair – Replacing the Snubber Ring (Whirlpool Part # 21002026)

Hi! It’s Steve from PartSelect. Today, we’re
going to show you how to change the snubber ring on your washer and it’s a really easy
job. All we are going to need is a putty knife, a 5/16ths and a ¼-inch nut driver, a 3/8ths
socket and a ratchet, a small flat blade screw driver, pair of locking pliers and a pair
of slip joint pliers. Let me show you how we do it. Now the first step of this repair will be
to lift the main top and then remove the front panel. There is a couple of spring clips that
are re-enabled four inches from either side to lift the main top, so the thin putty knife
will come in from the center till we feel an obstruction, and then depress the spring
with the putty knife and carefully lift the top and we want to position the washer so
that we can either lean the main top against the wall or have somebody support it while
we are doing the repair. Next we are going to remove two 5/16ths hex
head screws that secure the top of the front panel to the cabinet, and now we will tilt
the front panel away at the top and then we will disengage a couple of hooks that are
attached to the base frame, and then we can remove the front panel and set that aside.
Now with the front panel removed we now have access to the four springs in the front and
to get after one on the right hand side we will need to remove the motor, so we will
begin with that, it’s held in place with two 3/8ths bolts that secure to the base frame
and then we will also need to remove the ground wire so that we can pull it out far enough
and disconnect the main wire harness. Next we’re going to remove 3/8ths bolt at
the front and then we’re going to rotate that motor forward, if you can’t get the
motor forward enough to access that rear bolt you may need to tilt the washer at this point
and roll the drive belt off of the motor pulley, and we are just going to reach in behind and
we are going to locate that 3/8ths bolt, it’s identical to the one on the front, just pull
that bolt out and set that aside, and now with the ground wire and the two bolts from
the motor base frame removed, we can lift that motor up out of the base, and if you
can’t get it free of the drive belt, you will need to tilt the washer up enough, that
you can roll it off of the pulley and we will just pull that out far enough and don’t
touch the wire harness and set it aside and that will give us access to that spring on
the right hand side. Now because there are some sharp edges in
here and those springs have a little bit of tension on them we will put some protective
gloves on. Now when we go to remove the springs you will notice that there are three of them
that are attached to the support legs of that tub support, and then there are three that
are in between that are hooked to a hanger that hangs from that support, now as we remove
each spring we will want to tilt that tub towards the spring to reduce some of the tension
on it, and we’ll take our locking pliers, just grasp the shaft of that spring, make
sure we have a good grip on them, and then we are just going to stretch that spring enough
to disconnect at the top, and we’ll rotate the spring out of the base frame and we’ll
discard the old spring, we’ll just work our way around. Now to gain access to the rear springs we
will need to remove the rear access panel, we find it easier just to pull the machine
completely away from the wall, disconnect the fill hoses and the drain hose just makes
it a little easier to work on and the back panel is held in place with 5/16ths hex head
screws, we’re going to remove the three across the top, and the two on the ends and
then we’ll just loosen the three on the bottom, set that panel aside and again we’ll
put our protective gloves on and we are going to pull that tub towards the back and with
our locking pliers grasp that spring firmly and then we’ll lift it free of the hook,
tilt it out of the base frame now with the motor removed in all of the springs disconnect
it, we next need to disconnect the tub to pump hose and it is easier to do that from
the pump if you can reach it from the front side, just squeeze that clamp and pull it
up and then disconnect the hose, if you can access it from the front just remove the 5/16th
screws on the small access panel on the back and access it from that area. Now there will be some water that will come
out so have a towel ready to clean that up, now we are ready to disconnect the air bell
hose, simply tilt the tub forward enough that we can reach down and behind and depress the
little spring clamp that holds that hose to the bell on the side of the outer tub. Now
we can lift the whole tub assembly, and you may need two people to do this but simply
lift it straight up out of the base opening, be careful not to damage the pulley and tilt
it forward on the bottom, pull the whole assembly out and we’re going to turn the whole tub
and the suspension assembly upside down, in this way we can access the snubber ring. Now to remove this snubber ring what we need
do is to remove the bottom of the break and it’s held in place with 6 screws and there
is a spring that is inside of that break that has about 200 pounds of pressure on it, so
we have to be very careful when we remove that break cover. So what I suggest you to
take is a, it’s 1-inch long #10/24 thread screws, take three of those and then remove
three of the existing screws, they are only about 3/4s of an inch long, so we will take
one out and skip one, take the next one out and so on, and so we have three of them removed
in a triangular pattern, and then we’ll replace those short screws with the one inch
long ones, you just put them in about 3/8ths of an inch into the threaded portion, now
with those three longer screws in place, we can remove the remaining three original screws,
just turn them a few turns each in succession, so we have even pressure on that break spring
and we could just carefully unthread those remaining three shoulder screws. Now at this point we can slide the snubber
out from underneath that break drum and remove it. Now before we install the new snubber
assembly we want to make sure that the bottom suspension mount is clean and dry, and then
we’re just going to fit the upper edge of that snubber in underneath the break, and
you may need to lift up slightly on that break, fit it underneath and make sure it’s even
all the way around and before we tighten those screws make sure that all three holes are
lined up perfectly. Now alternately tighten two of the screws, making sure that the snubber
is staying in place and it’s even all the way around and you can tighten the screws
securely, we can now remove the longer ones and replace them with the originals, now tighten
the last three screws securely, and then before we put the assembly back in we will need to
examine the base of the washer and clean up any of the debris from the old snubber ring
and make sure that it’s free of any lubricants there shouldn’t be any grease or oil in
that area, it’s a dry snubber on this style of washer, the only thing that you might lubricate
it with will be some cornstarch, so we will clean up that area first, just wipe the remaining
residue from that area, and then inspect that dome to make sure that it’s free of any
lubricants, and then we can put the tub back in. So when reinstalling this tub we want to make
sure that we don’t damage that pulley when we set it down, so carefully balance it on
the pulley, rotate it around so we have the tub to pump hose in the right position and
we are going to tilt the top of the tub in first, and we will fit in underneath that
cross member, carefully set it down into place and we will reinstall that air bell tube,
just squeeze the clamp and make sure it is fully inserted over the air bell, next we
can reinstall the tub to pump hose and again if you can access it from the front, or you
can also access it from the back, and next we will reinstall the suspension springs,
make sure that they all fit up through the holes in the base frame
and use caution when reinstalling them that
we don’t over-press the springs, so with our locking pliers, we will begin by putting
the two side ones in and work our way around the tub. Now at this point we can put the motor back
into position, and we should carefully lift it up and set the pulley down through the
hole, and then install the bolt on the front and we won’t tighten this bolt completely
and we will rotate the motor forward and then locate the hole on the backside, and you have
to pivot that motor base frame until you find the nut on the frame, and then we can tighten
that bolt and rotate the motor back into position and tighten the front bolt securely and then
route the ground wire into position, and we will install the machine screw to the motor
base frame first and then with a self-tapping screw we will secure the ground wire to the
washer base, and now we can turn the machine around and access the back of it to replace
the two remaining springs at the very back, and just stretch the spring enough to catch
that hook and do the same for the last one. Now we can reinstall the back panel and make
sure that we engage all three slots on the bottom of that panel, now we are ready to
reconnect the drain hose and the fill hose and put the washer back into position. Now
to reinstall the front panel we want to make sure that we engage those slotted holes on
the bottom of the front panel with the clips that are attached to the base frame. We also
have a couple of locating pins one on each side that will have a nylon insert that slides
over those, make sure those are both in position before we install the panel, and then as you
raise the panel into position make sure that those ends line up with the appropriate hole
and then hold it in position, and will start the 5/16ths screws to secure it and make sure
both those screws are tight, and also check there is two locating pins on the top of that
front panel that will engage two holes in the main top. There is also a rubber gasket that fits down
over those pins, make sure those are both in position and carefully lower the main top,
line up those pins and then press the top into position, so the spring clips catch.
We are ready to reconnect the power and our repair is complete. I told you it was an easy job, thanks for
watching and good luck with your repair.

23 thoughts on “Washing Machine Repair – Replacing the Snubber Ring (Whirlpool Part # 21002026)”

  1. Michael says:

    When would one know that the snubber ring needs replacing? tks

  2. Matt Simmons says:

    If you're able to access the rear spring from the rear access panel…. when why must the motor be removed??

  3. Duane Wilson says:

    Great video…I used this to replace my snubber ring and springs….one thing….the belt was it difficult to put back on?

  4. Psycho9263 says:

    Is that a Maytag?

  5. Tod Johnson says:

    Good Video, helped me out with my repair. Are you from the upper midwest? 'Aboot' = about, haha

  6. berkelk says:

    Thanks for this video!

    Repaired my Mom's Maytag and everything was almost exactly the same. I did not have to remove the motor, though space was limited on that right side with the motor there.

     The hardest part was getting the side springs back on without locking pliers. Good workout for the forearms. 

  7. Steves Music Service says:

    Great instruction,I would stress to remove one of the screws that holds  the round coller  that holds the ring in place and take it to a hardware store to make sure it is the right screw and that the threads are the same.I highly recommend taking the back panel off,It could use a good cleaning anyway.With the good instruction I got,and the snubber ring was only  10 bucks,I almost  got a new washer.I almost bought a new one.Thank you, Parts Select,and that guy that guy that showed how to do  the work. I just washed a load of towels. It works like new  The old snubber ring was in two pieces when I disassembled it. Thanks a bunch,Steve

  8. Michael Engle says:

    I didn't see anything about the drive belt. when installing it back on, is there any tension adjustment or do you just slip it over the pulleys and it's good to go?  otherwise the video is very helpful. thanks!

  9. Steve W says:

    On some Crosley models you may need an 8MM socket or nutdriver  instead of a 5/16" socket or nutdriver. Instructions were great, thanks.

  10. santoli says:

    Thanks for this instructional video.  It gave me the step-by-step help that I needed to accomplish this repair to my Maytag washer.  I replaced the belt and springs along with the snubber ring and now the machine runs like new again, no more rocking and rolling in the spin cycle.  I'm thrilled.  Thanks for the help, sir!

  11. Robert Moore says:

    I just replaced the snubber ring on my PAVT244AWW Performa washer and I HIGHLY recommend getting the factory spring removal tool. I got mine off Ebay for $25.00 and I can tell you that was the best $25 I've ever spent.

  12. Mickster Mouseter says:

    I replaced the snubber ring but the machine still shakes and walks away from the wall. The bigger thew load the more it shakes. All legs are tight and machine is level. I am wondering if this could be from weak springs? If so, I'll put new ones in. Also I am wondering where the Suspension Spring Hook #19 in parts diagram for Maytag Model MAV6000AWQ washing machine. It is about 18 years old and still in very good condition. I hate to get rid of it. When I push the tub from side to side, it move stiffly and stays to which ever position I move it to. Wadda ya think?

  13. Eric Murray says:

    thanks for the instructional video. I found the last two springs (in rear) very difficult to get a grip on to release. Since I was replacing them, I used channel grip pliers to "open" the hooks at the top. That is, what was a J shape was closer to an L shape. At this point, the lift required to remove the spring was much less.

  14. Glenn Wallace says:

    I'm going to suggest UNPLUGGING the washer from power before opening the cabinet.

  15. Tom A says:

    Great video! I'm a master auto mechanic but have never worked on a washing machine before. Your instructions took me through the entire job step-by-step. Everything worked out wonderfully! Besides replacing the snubber, I replaced the brake stator and brake rotor because the drum was turning and squeaking during agitation and at the end of the spin cycle. One thing I did that made the additional steps of replacing the brake rotor much easier was to take off the transmission pulley. It made releasing and reapplying pressure on the spring with the longer screws a breeze. In addition, removing the pulley allowed me to use a power drill for the procedure rather than a screw driver or wrench.

  16. Terry says:

    My wife was ready to get a new washer due to the walking all over but I
    convinced her to let me do the snubber and springs replacement and the
    Maytag is back to running perfectly!

  17. Joyce Huber says:


  18. Jason Stoll says:

    There was no opening in the back of my Maytag washer, so I had to reach under the tub to access the springs. After clamping the locking pliers to the long shaft of the spring (with proper orientation around the support structures), I laid down on the floor, using my elbow as a fulcrum. It looked goofy laying on the floor, but I was able to hook on all springs using leverage rather than pure brute strength. This video was awesome and helpful, by the way. Thanks.

  19. Rob James says:

    before you take the springs out, push the drum to stretch the spring out, then stick nickles or quarters in the gaps. when you move the drum back, the spring will be uncompressed and easier to put in/take out!

  20. ricochet says:

    thank,s gay.. is usfull .. and good.. tips..i learn ..something new ….and the principal thing ..i don,t know nothing about washer….thank so much…

  21. Manuel Canargo says:

    Good video Sr. I have one question I did not saw at what time did you connect or installed the belt ? Thank You .

  22. J Delgado says:

    What I want to know is how those 3 screws I’m supposed to procure out of thin air is supposed to do anything at all.

  23. S Haney says:

    Incomplete, how about the belt?

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